maddieone

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Team,
I am considering purchasing the Top Flite AT6 ARF and I have also been researching the World Models AT6. Does anyone have any information or has been associated with the TF AT6. I kinow that this is the weenie way out but I would appreciate any info that I can get.

Thanks,
MADDIEONE

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

I am currently building a TF AT-6 for an RCU Magazine review. I haven't flown it yet, but it's ready to go (Just waiting on the weather)

The quality is outstanding. Although I did find two flaws - Both easily corrected.

1) The set-screws in the wheel collars did not fit. I don't know if they were the wrong size, or if the holes were not properly tapped, but I just re-tapped the holes and used some 6-32 set-screws that I had on hand.

2) There was a pretty severe angle between the throttle arm and the servo. This caused the servo arm to twist as it moved. You can solve this by either replacing the throttle pushrod with a flexible cable, or what I did was to make a servo mount that moved the servo to a more in-line position.

maddieone

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks MINNFLYER, please keep us up to date on your progress. What engine do you plan on using? If I get the TF ARF I was hoping to use an existing Super Tigre S 61 that runs really great and that would keep the project cost down.
Thanks Again,
MADDIEONE

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

I am using an OS 91 Surpass II. I have heard from someone with this combo that says it's an excellent power match.

maddieone

My Feedback: (2)

Sounds good to me.
I have a couple of planes with the 91's and the engines have always been extremely reliable and have not caused any grief.
So much for project costs.

Howard

My Feedback: (55)

MinnFlyer,

The gear on this plane looks "unusual" and perhaps less than sturdy. Let me underscore 'looks' because I have no other information to suggest there is a problem and I don't want to start rumors based on my visual perceptions - sometimes these threads take on a life of their own. Would you be kind enough to comment and also check the wire dimensions (thickness) of the gear. I have the WM AT-6 but have not started it and just fell in love with the TF colors when they started advertising. The WM AT-6 is beautiful but might rub real scale fans. Thanks

Howard

jbarnes

Does the TF AT6 have the hatch built into it like the P51. You just simply cut the sheeting and you have nice hatch for electric setup? I have the TF P51 on electric and it flies fantastically. Considering the AT6.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

I have not measured the gear wires, but a 3/16" collar would not fit on it., my guess is 4mm, but I'll try to remember to check that tonight. It seems plenty strong though.

As for a hatch, I have not seen one, but then, I haven't been looking for one either. I reviewed the TF P-51 and never even realized that IT had one!

jbarnes

To see the hatch access visit this thread, http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_79...tm.htm#7967084

R/C Foolish

My Feedback: (6)

The TF AT-6 flies great with a Saito 100. The gear are not perfect. I replaced the z bend wires for 256 rod with clevis's attached for a more solid connection. I would like to see Robart come up with a replacement gear.

R/C Foolish

Free Bird

A couple of weeks ago, I had an opportunity to fly the TF AT-6 ARF. It was powered with a O.S. 91. The builder of the model had excessive throws on the ailerons and elevator (he felt the instruction throws weren't enough). Once that was squared away, I flew the Texan and I must say, I was impressed with the way it flew. It was very solid and not twitchy at all. The stock retracts worked well, but they do look funkey. Landings without flaps is a no brainer as it slows nicely. It sure does look nice flying with the gear up! I just might have to get one of these birds, I'd strip it and use a different trim scheme though.

Robart used to make a set of retracts for the TF AT-6 kit. They should fit without too much effort.

FB

bucho

My Feedback: (6)

saito 100 is a good idea or better the surpasss 91 ?

CCFPILOT

The gear wire is 5mm, and soft as cheese, no spring at all. I'm wondering if anyone other than me has tried to remove the gear wire from the retracts after the set screws have been torqued down?? It's nearly impossible because the wire is so soft it gets distorted.

Flys great though, just make soft landings.

Ethan

PS. I remove the set screws before trying to remove the wire struts.

Iflyglow

My Feedback: (79)

Has anyone tried a YS 1.10 yet. What is the tail feather construction like.

lancedoze

Just flew mine today. Everything looks good and functions well except the gear. This seems to be the only drawback. OS 91 II with a 14x6 k series MAS is perfect. If anyone has tried the robart gear let us know because we are going to need it.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Can anyone tell me the diameter of the firewall. I'm considering a 20cc gas. Thanks!

Augie11

I'm sorry but I have to give you a complicated answer to a simple question. The firewall is supported virtually all the way around with hardwood spars which extend out to what I'll call a 'cowl ring'. The spars limit the firewall diameter to 5 7/8". However the cowl ring, which is approx. 3/4" forward of the firewall, further limit the usable diameter to 5 1/8". This figure is essentially the same as the inner cowling diameter.

Hope that helps.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Augie,

Thanks for the reply. What I have in mind is the 20 cc gas from rcgf engines. It's difficult to tell without holding the plane and engine in hand............

maddieone

My Feedback: (2)

Lifer,
Due to the size of the AT6 I do not think that gas is the way to go. I have looked at some of the smaller gas engines and with the carbs and mufflers sticking out the way they do you are not going to have much cowling left by the time you get the engine mounted. I am also concerned by the weight of the engine and since they all have EI you have the additional weight of the batteries. Given that I do not know what a 'rcgf' engine looks like I would stay with what has proven to be a great combo for this plane, that is a nice 91 four stroke. You other guys care to comment?

Maddieone

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Maddieone,

I'm afaraid that you are correct. What I want to do and what is reasonable sometimes don't agree. Again, thanks for a candid opinion.

Lifer

maddieone

My Feedback: (2)

You are quite welcome, always glad to help.

Maddieone

P.S.

To you and the rest of the guys, I have read a couple of reviews where the reviewer used a product called Epo-Grip to join the wing halves together. Well being of a curious nature I started looking around for something that was eaiser to obtain and perhaps cheaper. I found that Sig makes a product called Epoxolite that is normally used for fillets. So on a chance I bought some and did a couple of tests where I glued flat pieces of wood together and a faux D tube with joiner. After drying the flat pieces broke under duress but the glue joint held. I could not pull the joiner out of the tube. Work time is fifteen minutes but if you have done your pre fitting that would be sufficient. Also if some of the material oozes out, you just wet you finger and it rubs off. Be sure do do that prior to it setting up. The product is viscous and spreads like peanut butter so it doesn't slop all over when putting the pieces together.

Hope this helps. [sm=49_49.gif]

Free Bird

Epoxolite really isn't for joints like joining wing panels together. It's thick nature doesn't allow it to soak into the wood like a slow-cure epoxy. Epoxolite is for making fillets and such.

FB

Clay Walters

Looks a little big: http://www.zrcgf.com/store/Details.c...=26&category=0

maddieone

My Feedback: (2)

Well, given that the material that was used by the two reviewers is of the same consistency as the Epoxolite I have to disagree. Also, the material used for the center ribs, the D tube and the joiner are normally made out of some type of plywood and or hardwoods which do not lend themselves to soaking. One should score the surfaces prior to using any type of epoxy to help ensure a good bond. It comes down to user preference and both types of adhesives will work.

Maddieone

Balsawings

Epo-grip is the brand name. They have many different viscositys of epoxy. You have your normal 5 minute and 25 minute but also pre-mixed with silica or milled fiber as well as a gell. It's good stuff, sold and manufactured by a friend right here in Miami.

I also would not recommend using any brand epoxy product with a thickening agent to join wings because of the lack of penetration.

Bob Cox
SPA 374
Miami, FL