Top Flite Cessna 182 ARF
10-22-2015, 04:55 AM
#1276
The flutter issues come from the rudder. I changed out the factory wire rod with a much stiffer version. Fixed the problem
the Robert strut can also be a problem in combination with the week firewall I suggest adding two layers of plywood one inside and one outside of the firewall Mine broke on it's very first flight
here is my email hit me up I'll send you pics of what I did to mine. Not sure how to add pics here
[email protected]
the Robert strut can also be a problem in combination with the week firewall I suggest adding two layers of plywood one inside and one outside of the firewall Mine broke on it's very first flight
here is my email hit me up I'll send you pics of what I did to mine. Not sure how to add pics here
[email protected]
10-26-2015, 02:10 AM
#1278
I've always just uploaded them. Never had any problems except if I use my phone to take the photo with. Sometimes when you use a phone to take the photo the orientation of the camera can play a roll in how the picture displays. 99% of my pictures are taken with a normal digital camera.
11-06-2015, 01:37 PM
#1279
Okay, for those of you who used the Robart scale strut, how long did you make it in length? i measure 6" for the original nose gear when installed per the instructions. That seems a little short. Did you go longer?
Also, how did you end up modifying the nose wheel pant to get the strut in there? I have ideas but want to see what others have done.
Thanks!
Also, how did you end up modifying the nose wheel pant to get the strut in there? I have ideas but want to see what others have done.
Thanks!
11-06-2015, 02:49 PM
#1280
What I did was mount the strut mount then cut the strut to the length it needed to be for the fuselage to sit level. The wheel pant is more complicated and difficult to describe but requires lots of grinding, filling and fitting.
My experience with the Robart robostrut was very expensive and aggravating. I eventually went back to the factory setup with the exception of the factory nose wire, it was soft so I ordered a nose wire from the TF Cessna kit. I still have the remains of the first three robostrut failures that I may be able to get some pictures of the wheel pant modification from. I'll get back to you shortly.
My experience with the Robart robostrut was very expensive and aggravating. I eventually went back to the factory setup with the exception of the factory nose wire, it was soft so I ordered a nose wire from the TF Cessna kit. I still have the remains of the first three robostrut failures that I may be able to get some pictures of the wheel pant modification from. I'll get back to you shortly.
11-07-2015, 08:02 AM
#1281
I know that the full scale has a tendency to land nose down and requires a lot of up trim/back elevator in the flare to prevent hitting nose first. This is due to the larger/heavier Continental engine, as compared to a 172. Is that whats happening with the model as well?
Last edited by MFIGHT43; 11-07-2015 at 08:13 AM.
11-07-2015, 08:50 AM
#1282
My Feedback: (6)
I know that the full scale has a tendency to land nose down and requires a lot of up trim/back elevator in the flare to prevent hitting nose first. This is due to the larger/heavier Continental engine, as compared to a 172. Is that whats happening with the model as well?
11-07-2015, 11:19 AM
#1283
What I did was mount the strut mount then cut the strut to the length it needed to be for the fuselage to sit level. The wheel pant is more complicated and difficult to describe but requires lots of grinding, filling and fitting.
My experience with the Robart robostrut was very expensive and aggravating. I eventually went back to the factory setup with the exception of the factory nose wire, it was soft so I ordered a nose wire from the TF Cessna kit. I still have the remains of the first three robostrut failures that I may be able to get some pictures of the wheel pant modification from. I'll get back to you shortly.
My experience with the Robart robostrut was very expensive and aggravating. I eventually went back to the factory setup with the exception of the factory nose wire, it was soft so I ordered a nose wire from the TF Cessna kit. I still have the remains of the first three robostrut failures that I may be able to get some pictures of the wheel pant modification from. I'll get back to you shortly.
I took the time to go through all the other pages of this thread and found lots of pictures/advice there. Thanks for your input though!
11-07-2015, 01:16 PM
#1284
I know that the full scale has a tendency to land nose down and requires a lot of up trim/back elevator in the flare to prevent hitting nose first. This is due to the larger/heavier Continental engine, as compared to a 172. Is that whats happening with the model as well?
The R/C model, when the stock nose gear is used, tends to sit a little nose high. So if you come in level the nose wheel will hit first and launch the plane back into the air. Using an oleo strut reduces this tendency but not totally. When landed properly with a good flair, the landings are a thing of beauty.
The problem I had with the robart struts was when I attempted to turn the plane after roll out, the strut would bend sideways. (Our field has a paved runway and a short roll out area) If I landed in the grass the plane would slow down very quickly and I would not have the problem. But then if the grass was not mowed very short it would cause the plane to sometimes flip over, usually damaging the robart strut. If I were to ever go back to a Robart strut I would use the 7/16th strut.
11-10-2015, 11:53 AM
#1285
Getting there..... Saito FG-21 looks like it will fit using the stock motor mounts... Flaps are sloooooow using Futaba Sbus to program the servo speeds individually. Adding more lights too, like strobes and more incandescent landing lights in the wing and cowl.
11-16-2015, 07:09 AM
#1287
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"Beefing up the firewall"
If you take note of the recess in the bottom of the firewall and the way the stock coil spring sits in there, you will notice that the spring coil will touch the firewall when minimal forward pressure is applied, that in turn supports the nose gear shaft and makes it actually quite forgiving on the rough landings. If you install the Robart gear just epoxy a block into that recess and notch a nice groove in it up and down, allow minimal clearance between the groove and the shaft of the nose gear and it will take a pile of abuse, believe me I know!! It works great!! I will post pics soon
11-28-2015, 11:33 PM
#1290
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Wasco,Ca. CA
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MFIGHT43 Look at page 47 post 1160 I had a lot trouble overheating.You cant see it but there is aluminum baffles that follows the fins on back side to
keep the heat from the carb.the opening is 1/2 wide on ex.side. later I drilled a 1/2 " hole in the front baffle and made curved hose to blow cold air on the carb.to stop vapor lock.
John
keep the heat from the carb.the opening is 1/2 wide on ex.side. later I drilled a 1/2 " hole in the front baffle and made curved hose to blow cold air on the carb.to stop vapor lock.
John
Last edited by John H.; 11-28-2015 at 11:43 PM.
11-29-2015, 07:05 AM
#1291
MFIGHT43 Look at page 47 post 1160 I had a lot trouble overheating.You cant see it but there is aluminum baffles that follows the fins on back side to
keep the heat from the carb.the opening is 1/2 wide on ex.side. later I drilled a 1/2 " hole in the front baffle and made curved hose to blow cold air on the carb.to stop vapor lock.
John
keep the heat from the carb.the opening is 1/2 wide on ex.side. later I drilled a 1/2 " hole in the front baffle and made curved hose to blow cold air on the carb.to stop vapor lock.
John
11-29-2015, 02:22 PM
#1292
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Wasco,Ca. CA
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When I get time I will take pictures. John
Try this
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...t-results.html
Try this
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...t-results.html
Last edited by John H.; 11-29-2015 at 02:43 PM.
12-04-2015, 10:36 AM
#1293
Say, I was going to ask you, what exhaust did you use with your fg-20? I have purchased a 90' header to try and use the stock muffler inside the cowl. Hopefully it will work!
01-28-2016, 08:04 AM
#1294
Slowly coming along...
Sorry guys, this Cessna project is going slow due to distractions (dang work, getting in the way of fun! Lol) and me adding extra details. i purchased strobe lights for the wingtips and tail, so those have to be installed now, and the nose strut project is coming along slowly. Also, decided to do a field box build (didn't have one yet) and painted it to resemble the Cessna color way. Hope to have another update in the coming days!
Last edited by MFIGHT43; 01-28-2016 at 08:08 AM.
01-28-2016, 02:25 PM
#1296
02-04-2016, 11:39 PM
#1297
Join Date: Jun 2015
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Need your help guys. Did anyone ever install a DLE 20cc or O.S 15GT on this plane? and if you did how did it go with the cowl. I would like to buy this plane and have a gas setup on it, however I would really like to keep the cowl in one piece and to keep the scale looks of it. Moreover, what size spinner do you guys use on it? It would really nice if you guys could email me your help or pm me. I am not very good at following threads and prefer to get a notification when someone contacts me. My email is [email protected]
Thank you
Thank you
02-09-2016, 08:59 PM
#1298
My Feedback: (45)
Need your help guys. Did anyone ever install a DLE 20cc or O.S 15GT on this plane? and if you did how did it go with the cowl. I would like to buy this plane and have a gas setup on it, however I would really like to keep the cowl in one piece and to keep the scale looks of it. Moreover, what size spinner do you guys use on it? It would really nice if you guys could email me your help or pm me. I am not very good at following threads and prefer to get a notification when someone contacts me. My email is [email protected]
Thank you
Thank you