AngLeo

I think the pack will work good but Id rather usea 6 volt pack because the servos are much stronger and betterat6.....you can always slow the servos with exp and still havethe torque....with 4.8 ya get what ya get.As long as your servos at 4.8 are over 100 oz,it will still work fine.

Pilot Sofer

Thanks

Pilot Sofer

I just checked my servos. They want it at 6 volts. I'll just exchange it. When I got to 6.0 do I keep it at 2400 miliamps and be nickel cadium battery?

AngLeo

I dont think they make a pack that high in capacity with NiCd....youd be better off with NiMh,because a NiCd pack WILL develop a memory if you dont discharge and maintainthem....so old school ,the NiMh wont do that,just cycle a couple of times and they get stonger and strong...and will outlast,and with AA cells,i've seen them up to 3000.

OK2Fly

I'm running a 6v 2000 mAh nimh in mine.

AngLeo

thats what I have in all my larger planes...6v...2000 Hydromax pack....there a GREATPack ...seems to run all day and charge at 1.5 amps at any time,it just keeps getting stronger,no need to discharge...and have 6 dig. servos.

Drag

I'm running a 6 volt 2700 mAh nimh in mine and hitec HS- 645 MG seem to work NICE!

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

Where did you get the6v...2000 Hydromax?

OK2Fly

Tower Hobbies or your local hobby shop...

Pilot Sofer

What happens when it develops a memory?

AngLeo

The pack will peak at charge....but wont be full to capacity,leaving you thinking its full it may only be 2/3rds or 1/2.So by discharging fully and charge,it will hit max.,if left at say 1/2 full all the time,the pack will in a way remember that and peak there......thats about the easiest way I can explain.Its best to use a charger the measures Mih,(not volts) so you can keep track.....TOO much work!

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

Okay, timeout here folks......

There are a number of misconceptions being thrown around here;

Pilot Sofer; did you read that link I gave you? It addresses your questions as well as things like cell impedence (resistance), continous and burst output capabilities, charging including cycling and so on. Did you know you can get a false peak from a NiMH battery if you charge it too fast with a peak detecting charger? That you can actually ruin the thing by charging it too fast? That AA size cells just don't make good rx flight packs except for trainers or small glow models?

AngLeo; you got it backwards on NiCD's and the memory thing. What happens is say you typically only use 50% of the battery capacity before recharging. At some point the battery will go dead when it hits that 50% charge level rather than going all the way down. So it's a case of the battery developing a memory for where it's usually drawn down to, not the charge level/voltage as that stays the same. Incidently, NiMH batteries can have issues which require cycling them a few times much like NiCD's to bring 'em back.

All that said; A123 batteries are the definitive solution for RC model airplanes IMHO. Some folks feel queasy about 'em as you cannot volt check 'em before flight due to the extremely flat discharge curve so it's hard to determine charge level from a loaded volt check. What you do is figure out how many mah's the model uses per flight and charge accordingly. Those batteries will put out a 30C continous discharge and burst to 50C, don't self discharge to any real extent and we're talking months not days or weeks, can be charged in 20 minutes or even faster if you've got a big enough charger as you can't hurt 'em that way, don't require regulators like Li-Ions or Li-Po's and won't blow up like Li-Po's can either.

The 1100 mah A123 in my old Funtana 90 only weighs 3 ounces and will fly the thing all day the way I fly.

JMHO, but you fellers need to dig into the battery question a bit more, especially if you consider going to bigger models which it seems most of us do at some point.

atasse

ZEEB thanks for the info and link.....best explaination and setup info for A123s I've seen yet. It's got me convinced to switch to the A123s for my new funtana.
Cheers!

Pilot Sofer

Here's the thing. It's not the aa cell size. It's larger.

Pilot Sofer

When I bot the battery . They said to use the the Hobbico quick field chargger that I have. They say to charge it at .1 or .2 amps for 12 hours. I will be having the charger connected to a 12 volt power source that plugs into the wall. I probably will change it to 6.0 and keep everything the same. miliamps and having a nicd battery.

Slow and Steady

For what its worth, I switched to lipo after alot of frustration with short NMH battery life and the need for recharging at the field. The 2 cell 2100 will easily handle 10 9 minute flights, providing enough for a full day of flying. The regulator only weighs 1.7ounces. The A123 does sound like a great alternative, but I doubt I will ever go back to NMH again. Just my 2 cents.

AngLeo

A123? Ive never heard of these.What are they? And where do ya get them?Charge with a reg.(not LiPo) charger?

CAT POwer

My Feedback: (61)

Special charger

AngLeo

Duh....I clicked the link....that answered it all.Seems cool.The packs are fairly cheap too,chargings a little pricey.

erieqc

I use my Thunder Power 1010c charger and there are a lot more lipo chargers out there that will charge them to only takes 10 minutes to charge up after you use them. The only thing is the weight factor.

Pilot Sofer

Do i charge it at the same amount of amps and time if I switch to 6.0?

AngLeo

IDO. 1.0-1.5 AMPS....BUTI USE A PEAK TYPE CHARGER. AA CELLS.

erieqc

I charge at 10 amps the only problem I have is when I go to the field to fly my electric plane I have to start my pickup up to charge or the charger wont run might be a sign of the trucks battery getting weak.

Pilot Sofer

Thanks

BreakingPoint

My Feedback: (2)

Has anyone tried using flaperons on the funtana yet? Been thinking about trying it. Those massive ailerons should make great lift when used as flaps. I wonder how slow it would fly like that.