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  1. #1226

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    RE: New Funtana 125

    Had my first dead stick on the RCG30 Guess I should have refueled before that last flight [:@][:@] Tried to make one to many circles and missed the runway. Landed in some tall grass behind an area of tall willow brush. Had some minor damage but noticed that my covering has started to yellow. It has taken 2 seasons but it finally happened. We have finally had some sunny days again this year. I guess that is what triggers the yellowing.

  2. #1227
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    RE: New Funtana 125

    If anyone at the field asks about the yellowing I tell them its due to the high-G loads of 3D maneuvres that affect the chemistry of the paint

    I love the perplexed look in their faces as they process what I just said !

    A designer knows he has achieved perfection when there is nothing left to take away (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)
    Club Saito member #814, Spitfire bro #230

  3. #1228

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    RE: New Funtana 125

    I'd buy another in a heartbeat if they would scrap the yellowing graphics. Even if they went to something much simpler! It's an awesome plane in it's size and weight range, but I refuse to support them when they've known about this problem for AT LEAST 2 SEASONS!

  4. #1229
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    RE: New Funtana 125

    If I crunch either one of my Funtana 125's, I will get another in a split second. No yellowing yet on either of mine, however, I keep them covered while on the ground. About 50 flights on each. One has the Saito 1.25 4s the other has the SAP180HP 30cc gas engine. I love them both.
    John
    AMA 615755

  5. #1230

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    RE: New Funtana 125

    Just thought I would restate my fix for the yellowing. Take about an 8 inch length of blue painters tape and stick it to the yellowing area. You will likely go through half a role before your done. I started at the ailerons. When you peal the tape off, the yellow film comes off with it. While you need to use care around the red and black boarders, the whole process took about an hour and left the plane as good as new. This is a fantastic plane and worth the patient effort. Incidentally, the red and black areas do not come off as readily as the yellowing clear film, but do require some care.

    Regardng a great and unexpected engine option for this plane is the DLE 20. A fellow at our field flies every type of 3 D menuver with this combo and gets at least a 20 minute flight and great vertical. The 20 is lighter than any 30 cc gasser and similar to the original Hangar 9 specs. When he first mentioned the preference for the 20 I was skeptical. But after watching him fly it this weekend, I was convinced he made the right choice. It flew lighter and had minimal, if any wing rock.

  6. #1231
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    RE: New Funtana 125

    Same combo here, the Funtana 125 and DLE 20 is a match made in heaven

    Do you know which prop your buddy uses?

    Any videos ??
    A designer knows he has achieved perfection when there is nothing left to take away (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)
    Club Saito member #814, Spitfire bro #230

  7. #1232

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    RE: New Funtana 125


    ORIGINAL: Slow and Steady

    Just thought I would restate my fix for the yellowing. Take about an 8 inch length of blue painters tape and stick it to the yellowing area. You will likely go through half a role before your done. I started at the ailerons. When you peal the tape off, the yellow film comes off with it. While you need to use care around the red and black boarders, the whole process took about an hour and left the plane as good as new. This is a fantastic plane and worth the patient effort. Incidentally, the red and black areas do not come off as readily as the yellowing clear film, but do require some care.

    Regardng a great and unexpected engine option for this plane is the DLE 20. A fellow at our field flies every type of 3 D menuver with this combo and gets at least a 20 minute flight and great vertical. The 20 is lighter than any 30 cc gasser and similar to the original Hangar 9 specs. When he first mentioned the preference for the 20 I was skeptical. But after watching him fly it this weekend, I was convinced he made the right choice. It flew lighter and had minimal, if any wing rock.
    Ya know an easier fix is to use some basic acetone and remove the clear covering which is causing the yellowing. You have to be careful over the graphic spots but that removes it real easy on the white areas. So perhaps a combination of your method on the graphical areas and then the acetone on the white areas.


  8. #1233

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    RE: New Funtana 125

    Acetone? Sounds good. I just happen to have the tape and I try to avoid chemicals. I have found that the yellowing film looks like a very thin cellophane like material and peals off with little effort. The red and black areas seam to have more adhesion and by applying the tape along the edge of the colored areas, the yellow readily tears away from the adjacent colors. And no fumes. But whatever works!!

    Unfortunately I don't know what prop he uses.

  9. #1234

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    RE: New Funtana 125

    Can the yellow Funtana "sticker"?? be taken off. This is only thing about plane's looks I really don't like. I NEED a 8S plane to use my batteries I already have.

  10. #1235

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    RE: New Funtana 125

    I guess that I should state that I don't intend to do anything about the yellowing. It is not noticeable once the airplane is a few feet from the bench so I am just going to fly it.

    I am really liking the RCG 30 on this plane. If I was using the DLE 20 I would have to add weight to the nose in order to balance, but I am sure the DLE 20 flys it with authority.

  11. #1236

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    RE: New Funtana 125

    Maybe pull pull on the rudder would help the nose weight issue with a DLE 20 installed. The fellow at our field with the DLE 20 seams to fly tail heavy. This weekend he touched the grass while hovering with the 20 and had plenty of pull out thrust.

  12. #1237

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    RE: New Funtana 125

    I think that the 20 should be enough. I have one still in the box though

    The yellowing is evident because the part that goes yellow is just next to the part that doesnt. It may be a good idea to simply place a decal / striping tape/ whatever else comes to mind on the seam between the two so it isint very obvious

    Ameyam
    Preflight check is optional , picking up the pieces is consequential

  13. #1238

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    RE: New Funtana 125


    ORIGINAL: RACJ

    Can the yellow Funtana "sticker"?? be taken off. This is only thing about plane's looks I really don't like. I NEED a 8S plane to use my batteries I already have.
    It takes a little more work but yes it can be removed. I took the Hanger 9 red logo off the rudder to put on some better decals. However the printed pieces take a bit more work.


  14. #1239

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    RE: New Funtana 125


    ORIGINAL: mbritt


    ORIGINAL: RACJ

    Can the yellow Funtana ''sticker''?? be taken off. This is only thing about plane's looks I really don't like. I NEED a 8S plane to use my batteries I already have.
    It takes a little more work but yes it can be removed. I took the Hanger 9 red logo off the rudder to put on some better decals. However the printed pieces take a bit more work.

    THANKS,I ordered one yesterday. I may have sign shop do same size decal in black with FUNTANA in red or switch red decal black letters. I may like the yellow when I see it but I doubt it.

  15. #1240

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    RE: New Funtana 125

    If you try the painters tape solution, the problem will be gone in an hour and the original scheme will be intact.

  16. #1241

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    RE: New Funtana 125


    ORIGINAL: Slow and Steady

    If you try the painters tape solution, the problem will be gone in an hour and the original scheme will be intact.
    I'm talking about the yellow that comes on plane when new with FUNTANA printed on it. I may like it once I see it. No one here has this plane,I haven't seen one other than pics. I noticed you do knife edge and flat spins. I saw video on inverted flats,how are upright flat spins? Does yours knife edge well with out the winglets? THANKS

  17. #1242

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    RE: New Funtana 125

    Upright flat spins are great, inverted is even better. Inverted with aileron input and the flat is totally flat, 0 pitch. In knife edge it will pull to the gear more than I'd like, but manageable. I don't have the wing lets.

    I think the yellow we're talking about occurs on the overlay as its exposed to the sun. Mine was yellow for quite a while before I removed it and therefore was pretty degraded. When I applied an 8" length of painters tape and then pealed the tape off, the clear yellow film readily came off with the tape. The red and black areas don't peal as easily, so that if you apply the tape to the clear yellow area directly adjacent to the red or black areas and pull it off slowly, the yellow will be removed and tear clear of the colors. I think the whole plane took less than and hour and was pretty easy to obtain great results. I really like the stock scheme and wanted to save it.

  18. #1243

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    RE: New Funtana 125

    Glad to hear the upright spins are nice. KE can probably be mixed to be manageable. I fly off grass runway and really don't want to have to use the winglets. Mine should arrive next week. I know it will be a little heavier but I only buy 4S and 6S 5000 batts. I make 4,6,8,10,12S setups this way. When using 12S on my 50cc size planes I need a 8S plane to use the 4S batts. That's why I got this. I have 2 Eflight 110's sitting so I'll try one and see. 18x10 or 19x10 with 100ampHV esc oughta put out decent power.

  19. #1244

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    RE: New Funtana 125


    ORIGINAL: Slow and Steady

    Upright flat spins are great, inverted is even better. Inverted with aileron input and the flat is totally flat, 0 pitch. In knife edge it will pull to the gear more than I'd like, but manageable. I don't have the wing lets.

    I think the yellow we're talking about occurs on the overlay as its exposed to the sun. Mine was yellow for quite a while before I removed it and therefore was pretty degraded. When I applied an 8'' length of painters tape and then pealed the tape off, the clear yellow film readily came off with the tape. The red and black areas don't peal as easily, so that if you apply the tape to the clear yellow area directly adjacent to the red or black areas and pull it off slowly, the yellow will be removed and tear clear of the colors. I think the whole plane took less than and hour and was pretty easy to obtain great results. I really like the stock scheme and wanted to save it.
    So your're suggesting that it age, get good and ugly, before trying the tape process?

  20. #1245

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    RE: New Funtana 125


    I think that's what he's saying. Given the age and ugly requirements I guess I qualify to get the tape process done on ME

    Maybe I can find a good looking woman here on the beach to do the tape process on me!!

  21. #1246

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    RE: New Funtana 125


    ORIGINAL: RACJ


    I think that's what he's saying. Given the age and ugly requirements I guess I qualify to get the tape process done on ME

    Maybe I can find a good looking woman here on the beach to do the tape process on me!!
    Go for it!

  22. #1247

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    RE: New Funtana 125


    ORIGINAL: RACJ

    Glad to hear the upright spins are nice. KE can probably be mixed to be manageable. I fly off grass runway and really don't want to have to use the winglets. Mine should arrive next week. I know it will be a little heavier but I only buy 4S and 6S 5000 batts. I make 4,6,8,10,12S setups this way. When using 12S on my 50cc size planes I need a 8S plane to use the 4S batts. That's why I got this. I have 2 Eflight 110's sitting so I'll try one and see. 18x10 or 19x10 with 100ampHV esc oughta put out decent power.
    The power 110 isnt a very good motor, I started there with that one and just wasnt that pleased. Its an ok motor but the funtana flys best with lower weight. I think you will find the Hacker A50-12L or one of the A60 series to be better motors or perhaps even the AXI 5320/18 which will bolt right to the eflight mount. TheAXI 5320/18 is a badass motor, a little pricey but worth it. I have the Hacker A50-12L on mine now and its a beast as well and a great replacement for the Eflight 110 and the cost is good too. You may want to go to an A60 if you are going to run it on lower voltage (6s) because you will need the weight in order to balance it. but I have gotten mine to balance with 6s on the A50. without the need for a bunch of weight taped to the firewall. The great thing about the Hacker and Axi is that they will generate plenty of power on a 6,7,or 8s setup when proped right. The power 110, 8s is your only option as it wont do much on any less voltage.


  23. #1248

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    RE: New Funtana 125

    Hello again Ahicks, I think mine had been in the Florida sun for a year before a stumbled on the painters tape solution. I was using the painters tape to hold the aileron fully deflected while I retaped the hinge line with Ultra Cote. When I removed the painters tape from the aileron, it took the yellow film off with it. An hour of effort later and all the yellow was removed. Suggest trying a spot, like a lower area of the rudder, and see what happens.

  24. #1249

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    RE: New Funtana 125

    I agree the Axi 5320/18 is a great motor but I have 2 of the Eflight 110's sitting here. If 110 isn't enough I'll go Axi but the plane will be flown on 8S only as I have a lot of 4S 5000 batt I use with 6S 5000 in series for 10S on several planes.I have 2 50cc size planes on 12S so when I use my 6S to make 12S on these I need a second plane to carry to field on 8S to use my 4S. I think the Funtana will be a great all round free style aerobatic flyer even on slightly heavier 8S setup. For this plane I'm looking for exactly what the name says...FUN tana.

  25. #1250

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    RE: New Funtana 125

    It is definetly alot of fun and a bargain at this price. While I fly a 50cc EF Yak, which is definitely a pleasure, the Funtana remains a blast and a great way to unwind without 2K in the air.


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