SkyPilot101

Clean the metal pushrod with some fine sandpaper, not much, just enough to take off any oxidation, then wipe it down with alittle light oil and try again.

The1User

Hi SkyPilot101,

That's the first thing I did, the rod looks good, I put some oil on it, I think the problem is in the tube, This is my first "large" plane and I feel so frustrated to have a problem like this...

Thanks

Joe

sasec

frustration is anti-hobby... :-)
Please consider LQQKing again at comments regarding the solid, smooth [non-binding, ever] pushrod design detailed w/in these discussions. They are proven; works every time.

SkyPilot101

Call Horizon Customer service and give'em Hek!! Hope you get a new fuselage.

AngLeo

Both Pulse 125s I built had the same problem.The tube in the fuse near where it exits has a good bend in it.What I did was find the point where the rod will be when its hooked to the servo and flap control,and a little at a time,bend the rod the same shape as the tube(usually bending it away from the fuse) and youll notice it getting free.Just take your time and try diff. angles.What happens is the rod is too strait for the curved tube and it fights it.On the second build I had to work on the exit hole where the tube is glued to the fuse....it had too much glue and was crooked,I reglued it after running a small drill bit into the tube end to remove glue and widen it alittle.To see if this is the problem,just stick the rod in the hole on the outside of the fuse and only after a couple inchs,it will start tofight ya,and thats where you want to work it.Ive seen this before on alot of arfs, including my Stick40 and 60 and both my Yaks.In a nutshell.....make sure the rod(when its in its final position) is the same shape as the tube.Then clean and apply a little oil.

The1User

AngLeo

THANK YOU.... Makes me feel better to know I am not the only one

My plan was to start by trying to push the rod in from the back and see what happened

I have had a few problem builds and it just seem like I always get the "damaged" ARF's

I am 52, a single parent with 3 kids, Don't have a lot of time for flying, let alone building!!

Thanks Man!

Joe

AngLeo

Your very welcome....Like i said ,just take your time(even if ya dont have it)ALL ARFs need a little....from my Pulses to my beloved Funtana....they all need a little,Thats why they are Arfs.Ya have to add a little security.It will work out.If ya need anything,Just ask.Ill keep an eye on the boards and there lots of guys here that will chime in andgive helpful views.When your done.....youll b happy.....Its a great flyer!

AngLeo

The1User....What servos are you putting on yours? I would HIGHLY reccomend a better than standard on the elev. and rudder at least.Dont have to be metal or digital...just better than standard.I like the Futaba 3010's or simular.Theyre cheap (<$25) and work great.They saved my Pulse when the flap problem developed and was able to bring in,where as the3004 blew the gears and one went down like a lawn dart ( Horizon replaced the entire plane though) The wings are OK with stand....but I use 3152 Digitals cause I had them already.Even if ya dont use muchRudder its needed for ground control.

JoeMamma

[quote]ORIGINAL: AngLeo

I like the Futaba 3010's or simular.Theyre cheap (

phakur

My Feedback: (13)

Okay guys-

I would like opinions.

I have owned a Pulse 60 for some time and love the plane. It is pretty much about my style.

I want to move up to a 120 size plane and have narrowed the choice to

the pulse 125 or
the Texas RC or RC Guys Pawnee.

I think both are about the same in regard to flying characteristics, but would like to hear some opinions.

The pawnee is a little bit bigger planeeasier to see for us old guys (grin)

Thanks-

Larry

AngLeo

I think the Pulse is the best lookin of the bunch....the bigger they are the better they fly though.The Pulses huge wing area makes it a winner in flight ,i would think anyways....just my 2cents

The1User

AngLeo : I went with the standard JR Digital Sport Hi-Torque Servo (DS821) and a JR 2700mAh 6V NiMH Sanyo Battery (JRPB5008)

Ok,

So I am done the build and was just setting it up on the balance machine...... Seems to be way tail heavy?!@#$!

This build has been a pain from the start, now here's one to ponder, do they tell you to mount the motor 1/4 inch too far forward to balance the plane?
(others have commented that the manual says to mount the engine at 5 and 1/2 inches but they have to move it back 1/4 inch so the spinner doesn't have a big gap behind it)

I found this to be true and moved it back the 1/4 inch, looks great but balance is off...

Anyone else end up tail heavy? and are you guys using the manual's setting of 3 and 11/16's for your CG ??

THANKS !

Joe

blue77

My Feedback: (178)

I just canceld my backorder...I have a custom set of LG by TNT I'm listing for sale here on RCU for less than I paid...B7

doug_newman

Interesting forum... I too have had a problem with the rod going back to my rudder.  I removed a little of the ultra cote and found that the plastic tube has to bend to get around a bulkhead/wall way towards the tail of the plane.  Never thought of just bending the rod??  Bending the rod will make it a little more weak than a straight rod.  I was going to try and cut out some of the wall (enlarge the opening where the plastic tube passes through) to take the bend out of the tube.   Has anyone else done this?  I am kinda new to the hobby so please any help would be apreciated.

scooterinvegas

My Feedback: (1)

I had the same problem with a hangar 9 ultra stick 60. Bending the rod worked fine, BUT the throw on high rates was too much for just bending the rod. I ended up taking the stock push rod tubes out and installing "golden rods".

AngLeo

I was Tail heavy at the end of both.It required 2 oz. to the nose to balance on the bench....BUT,I found while flying...it felt nose heavy at 1/2 tank or less,so slowly removed the weights and it flew better,then removed all added weight and its perfect.The tank is big and so far forward ,it needed nothing.I even ran it out of fuel once and it flew/landed fine...dead stick,so left it that way to this day.I would do the same,balance on bench,then fly....I wouldnt move anything but the pack(by the way,my 2000 4.8v pack is in the compartment under the tank,as far forward as poss.)Youll might be takin the weights off too.As for the rods bending....I just worked with them to a perfect bend that allows for max. throws....in the begin, it started to bind a little at max high rate throw(which mine is 1/4" more than recc.) But "wore-in" well,I have little resistance but, I am using 2 FUT. 3010 servos on just the elev. flaps.bending the rod inside a tube shouldnt weaken it,only if its not in a tube.

doug_newman

Ok, I pretty much have it together, I have determined that I have the stronger elevator and rudder based on the wire being 5MM. The stabilizer seems to be pretty rigid and strong. I only have one control rod going back to the elevator. Do Ireally need to reinforce the elevator with two control rods? I am using one DS821 servos for theelevator per the instructions. I have installed a Saito 100..... is this going to be alittle to weak? I kind of fly aggresive. I know this is not an aerobatical plane but I want to have fun too, if you know what I mean?Should I step up to a Saito 125?? I considered installing my saito 150 but it isa little to big (a little towide and too long). Do not really have the money for a new motor right now, Iwoujld be willing to trade a good Saito 150 for a 125.

AngLeo

If ya have two rods to the elev....that should be good,but would add CA to the hinges and seal the gap with tape to be sure.I hope that the 821 servo has enough power,and the gears hold up,dunno....not much experience with them(FUTABA!!!!!).Im thinkin the 1.00 saito is a good engine for it,its not an aggressive plane,but the 125 would be better,the 150 would be INSANE!

scooterinvegas

My Feedback: (1)

I have two flights on my Pulse 125 with the stock set-up on the elevator. Its the updated elevator with the bigger rod in it. I taped it, but should I add a second push rod to it? I have a S3305 that I'm using for the elevator and a 871 on the rudder.

AngLeo

Check the "stiffness" between the two elev. flaps,It Must be rigid as if it was one piece,just a little play here is deadly, add the extra control if it "spongy" or sloppy.If its stiff,keep an eye on it.If your not sure....add it....cant hurt.Your good with those servos.

scooterinvegas

My Feedback: (1)

Its stiff. Think I will add the 2nd push rod anyway. Dont want to have to worry about it.

doug_newman

Well mine is already to fly, test ran the motor last night but now rain and wind here in South Dakota and out in the Black Hills of South Dakota they got snow! 12" in some areas!! Back to my plane, I just have the one control rod going back to the elevator. Ihope that is good and I wish someone would tell me that they have had no problems with just one control rod. As far as tape goes, is there a better packing tape than others? Any recomendation on what brand of tape to use? I assume to run tape the entire length of the elevator(fuselage to the bend). Sure looks pretty.... it is sitting here in the house with me begging me to fly her!

JoeMamma

For you fellahs comtemplating converting to two separate pushrods to the elevator halves, you couldn't ask for an easier conversion.

If you look close, the second pushrod tube exit hole is already installed at the rear of the fuse. Also, if you look close, the second set of holes for the second control arm is already drilled through the other elevator half.

To keep the throws identical, you must use two identical control arms on each elevator half. This was easy. For your second arm, simply use the control arm that's used for the rudder. Now you have a matched set for the elevator halves. This means you will need to pick up a control arm of your choice for the rudder.

If using the second rod, there is no reason to worry about the size of that wire joining the elevator halves together......the wire size will now be redundant.

To make installation of the second rod easier, I cut and removed the covering on the bottom of the fuse just below where the second tube will pass through the fuse. I had to pick up a roll of matching UltraCote covering. Use have a choice as they make the matching orange covering either in an iron-on or peel-and-stick versions.

The single pushrod will probably work, but I wanted the piece of mind of that second rod. Your choice !

Joe M.

scooterinvegas

My Feedback: (1)

I have to look agian at my plane. There is a 3rd push rod tube in the back, but it looks like it comes out the bottom. I thought I was for a steerable tailwheel or a rudder for floats. I'll look to tonight and report back.

JoeMamma

From what I remember, the third tube that exits the bottom of the fuse is used for routing your antenna (if your not using 2.4). As I stated, you will most likely need to remove the covering to easily get to the hidden second tube.

Joe M.