AngLeo

Youll get the new tail with a new kit.make sure ya buy a newer one.

phakur

My Feedback: (13)

but how do you know if you got the new one

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

Without having the old one it might be a bit difficult to know....but here is a pic of the old one on top of the new one (I removed one of the control horns and placed it on the new one)

The major difference is the thickness of the "U" shaped wire holding the two halves together.

AngLeo

Yes the thickness of the wire/and the elev. flaps have harder and bigger wood around the wire.Just make sure when ya build....the tail/elevator are stiff,especially from one elev to another,there should be no play and move as a solid pc. ThenSEALYOURGAP.Avoid using standard servos(i use 3010s)

phakur

My Feedback: (13)

from the pics it looks realy tuff to tell

still not sure

AngLeo

If ya didnt buy one yet,then get it from HORIZON.Youll get a new kit.Many small shops will have on shelf and could be older design.If ya already got,then just call HH and request a updated tail,ther good about things usually.No matter which ya get,just make sure ya spend time on the tail,its a great plane.

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

double click on the pictures.....big difference!

Clay Walters

I purchased one of the older kits and Hangar Nine sent me a new elevator. I didn't see much difference and the original elevator had predrilled holes on the other side of the elevator so I used it, purchased another matching control horn and did the dual elevator rods (one to each side) modification.

Happy to report a successful maiden this past weekend and the DLE-20 proved to be a wonderful combination with this airframe. Its quite crowded inside with this setup and better planning on my part would have made the installation easier but not easy if you've never built a kit nor bashed an ARF.

Regards,

Clay

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

Picture would be nice

Clay Walters

Tailskid,

What is it you'd like a picture of? Reason I ask is mine is much like what is already provided by previous posts but if its something in particular I would be glad to try and get one for you.

Regards,

Clay

JoeMamma

A successful maiden plus four more flights. Wanted to break in the new OS 1.20.

Flies just like my 80" SIG Four Star. I'm gonna be a happy camper with this one !

I fly from grass (sometimes it's long) and I didn't want any noseovers, so I kicked the main gear forward about an inch.

Also "Y'd" the elevator halves together by using two 4-40 rods.

For you guys previously wondering about the size (thickness) of the joining wire for the elevator halves, if you "Y" the elevator halves together it doesn't matter.

On my fifth flight I did my usual flutter test.[X(][X(] Took her up real high, nosed her over, applied full throttle and went into power dive. Was probably hitting near 90+ mph. Nothun fell off !![X(]

Joe M.

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

Joe, beautiful plane, Great flying site and good looking start up station!

Clay, I'm thinking about getting one of those DLE's for my bird and if you give me some time, I can look over this thread and pic yours out.....if I need more, I'll surely YELL at ya

Clay Walters

Good info in this thread and I've some pics in post #3422 pg 137.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_98...37/key_/tm.htm

Clay

kyle 9

Hey guys,
i was thinking about getting the pulse 125 and i have a few questions
1. did hangar 9 fix the problem with the tail?
2. what would be a good engine to get? this would be my first nitro? i like and heard the saito golden knights are great! (what size 1.00-1.25?)
3. I heard that mounting the engine upside down could be problems, but i would also like to keep the top smooth, so what would be a good engine to mount sideways?

also if i cant mount the engine on the side, and mounted it verticle... is there any way to mount the exhaust so it comes out of the bottom? i dont really like the looks of the exhaust on the top!. also what exhaust/engine combination would i need to use? thanks!!

BGCombs

My Feedback: (24)

Kyle,

I have a Saito 125 mounted sideways with the muffler hanging down. I really like having the smooth top cowl. I needed to redrill the motor mount screws, nothing too bad. I flipped the carb around and have an extension extending througn the cowl bottom near the muffler.

I'll try to get you a picture posted of it.

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

Only have 9 pages on this thread.....

scooterinvegas

My Feedback: (1)

There is a pulse 125 built at my LHS for sale. Its been flown 2 times. Super super clean. It's ready to fly BNF, but has a saito 115 in it. I like the plane, but worry that a 115 would be a little less motor than I would like.

How would it do with the 115 on it?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

It should be fine with the 115

The plane is listed for a 91 to 125 four stroke. a 61 to 120 two stroke

The 115 has a 125 cylinder on it. It breathes good.

The pulse is not exactly a 3D plane anyway. It is a sport plane.

scooterinvegas

My Feedback: (1)

Went looking for video of a Pulse 125 with a 115 to get an idea of how it flys with the 115. NONE.

Lots of 60's with 115 Saitos on them. The 125's had 125-180's on them. I like my planes to climb hard.

I think I will pass on the plane. Thanks.

AngLeo

Im not so sure a 115 would do well.It will fly,but with no authority im sure.I have a 120 2 stroke and has good (not great) power.The pulse is a bit on the heavy side.I have a Funtana 125,I originally hade a 125 saito 4st.,and it flew,but suffered,especially in wind,I installed a 150 and wham,was a whole new plane,and the Tana is alot lighter than a pulse,so thinking for good sport flying a 125 4 stroke,or 1.00 2st. is about the smallest Id go.

blue77

My Feedback: (178)

Hello....I have Pulse 125 on backorder from HH and a DLE 20 on the way...2 questions please......where can I purchase landing gear that will fit...would like to have it when plane comes in...and 2nd...should I get a pitts for the DLE 20?...which one? Thanks, WC

The1User

Hello all,

I started my Pulse 125 build, The pushrod for rudder is binding up in the tube, seems like it starts to get hard to push about 3/4 of the way inserted, then when it comes out at the rudder is is even worse

It is way to much for the servo to handle (it is 4 times as much resistance as the elevator tube)

Anyone know what to do about it?

Thanks

Joe

sasec

Regarding a non-swept gear. Back in post [page ~3].... this was stated: custom made one [gear] from TNT Landing Gear."

sasec

Regarding the best push rod installation: This info was posed back on ~ page 3.

Use Sullivan semi-flexible outer tubes, then a Teflon inner tube that is a slip fit [get from Hobby Lobby]. Last use .072 piano wire threaded one end [available from local hobby shop]. The latter is a perfect slip fit inside the Teflon tube. For dual push-rod applications, glue both push rod tubes side-by-side onto a 1/4 x 1/2 balsa plank; insert into the fuse and support w/ cross members. Spread tubes at the rear of the fuse and exit to the elevators. Note: Carry [extend] the support tubes on out to the control horns, less the distance for the clevis. At the servo end, solder the push rods together and use a Z bend on the servo arm. No binding or flexing.

The1User

Maybe I didn't state the post right,

What I am saying is the tube binding the rod is a defect, has anyone else had this problem?

Thanks

Joe