djculver

I have a GP Escapade that I built and while the tail wheel does not interfere during flight, I find that while I taxi, the tail wheel allows for minimal turning radius. Also the whell stem is about the size of a half of paper clip and is too easily bent thus makes turning on the runway more difficult. Anyone have any ideas?
DJ CUlver

opjose

First start off by maximizing the rudder movement.

If you wish more tail wheel authority using that setup ( which BTW is what I use on ALL of my smaller planes since I can but the wheel assembly AND aluminum wheel for 3.00/ea! ), you really need to move the pivot point to the extreme rear of the fuselage.

That increases tail wheel movement.

However I have most of my planes set up where you have yours and I have had no problems.

I can turn the plane around within the width of our runways, which is really all that you need.

It may also be that the Escapade is weather vaning, lowering the tail authority.

Increase the Toe-in of the front wheels, and raise the rear wheel so the plane sits more level.

Not only will this make the plane track better, but you'll get more tail authority.

Ms1095

Put a sullivan or a dubro tailwheel on it, and be done with it.

djculver

I bought a DuBro but am reluctant to drill into the tail. The bracket that it came with is just a touch too small. Because of the diameter of the current wheel axle being too small, I thought I would try and re-fabricate the same assembly with a heavier gauge wire.

djculver

Our runways are only 12' wide and are not that level. I don't mind going on the runway to line it up for take off, but when you have 5 or 6 planes in the air, the runway is the last place you want to be.

Ms1095

I have a Dubro on mine. I just bent the wire and glued it into the hole in the rudder where the plastic pin goes for the stock tailwheeel. I did put a piece of ply on the inside to beef up the bottom of the fuse for the dubro bracket. If you didnt glue the tail down it should be real easy to do.

ChuckW

I have that type tail wheel on several GP airplanes and it works great. I fly off a fairly wide runway so there isn;t much of an issue with turning radius but one thing I often do is taxi in high rate with a lot of rudder throw.

opjose

Yeah, there is nothing wrong with that wheel setup and I use it on planes ranging in size from .40 through 1.80 w/o problems.

He doesn't have something right. The wheel does not need replacement with something more expensive.

He just needs to find and fix the problem.

The Escapade tends to weathervane a LOT and it does not have great tail authority.

It also tends to yaw at takeoff a good bit.

ChuckW

Another thought, is the tail bouncing when the plane is taxied from a slightly rough runway? Maybe try using a little more up elevator to plant the tail wheel

oldvet70

My Feedback: (10)

My wife flew hers for the first time today. We fly off of decomposed granite and the stock tail wheel set up worked just fine. You can make a 180 while taxing in about 8 or 10 feet. We were flying in 14-17 mph cross winds and the rudder/tail-wheel worked as well as any I have. Maybe you need more throw on your rudder. Also if it's bending while landing try a little lighter touch when you set it down. It's got to be one of the easiest to fly low wing planes I've ever flown.

oldvet70

My Feedback: (10)

If you want the same style but just heaver wire try this; Great Planes Tail Whl Assembly 25% Yak 54 1.60 43cc ARF , http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXLLB9&P=ML

opjose

Can't beat that price!

If you buy the aluminum tail wheel seperately it will cost more than the whole assembly.

ChuckW

Gonna order one for a kit I'm building. Hopefully it won't be too tall.

djculver

Too Tall???

djculver

I took care of the tail wheel issue. I cut the end off of a electrical eyelet and crimped this on to the horizontal rod that attaches to the rudder. I soldered the two together. I then drilled out the hole of the nylon post to accommodate the larger size rod. I also changed my rudder dual rates to 85% low and 100% high with ailerons and elevator still at 65% and 85%. This is just until I get used to the plane. I am now having problems with the canopy even after installing the foam tape that the tech notes suggest. I am going to install 2 brass jewelery style hooks (one on each side of the rear of the canopy), or line the rear portion with small strips of Velcro. Any one else having these type of issues?

twostroke

My Feedback: (6)

This is what I did, its a SIG wheel assy. I put on backwards for easier mounting and it works great

oldvet70

My Feedback: (10)

I did the canopy install as recommended and have not had any problems with it. What type of problem are you having?

djculver

When I run the engine up the left potion of leading edge on the fuselage vibrates (flutters) profusely. After the engine is at top speed or at idle, no "fluttering" is present. It is not really a problem, it's just that over time, I can see that portion of the fuselage getting oil impregnated and eventually weakening. I thought that if I installed the cowl, it would not only look great but address this issue as well. I am just trying to be proactive instead of reactive when it comes to preventive maintenance. I was hoping that someone would have pictures so I could see what it would look like.
In regards to the canopy, I lost one again today. This is the second one. I think that additional measures (Velcro, hook latch, ect.) may be needed.

oldvet70

My Feedback: (10)

My canopy fits so tightly that its hard to remove. But if I had lost 1 let alone 2 I would put a couple screws thru it to hold it in place. I've seen some pictures of the cowl installed on another thread. It seemed to look and work best with electric but there were some that were on glow planes. As to the fuselage cheeks vibrating , well the cowl does solve that problem. You have to cut them off to install it. They serve little purpose, other than making the front of the plane look more finished, so you could cut them off if you wanted. I think I would look for the source of the vibration first however, and try to solve that problem.

djculver

I believe that the vibration is being caused by the wash of the propeller. it's just one of those things that can bug ya' if your not used to it. It's very similar to a harmonic vibration, and only occurs at a certain point of engine run up. As far as screws go, there really isn't anywhere to put screws. The only place I could see would be where the hooks go on to the fuselage in the rear, one could possibly put 4mm blind nuts and screw this in. Perhaps the tolerances differ from plane to plane, but this is my second Escapade, and they have both had issues here. The second plane being worse than the first. I think that thin strips of Velcro in conjunction with the existing magnet should take care of the problem.

iswenson

I know this is an old post but I thought I must reply. I just maidened my escapade yesterday. I installed the foam as indicated on the front of the canopy. My second flight, while over thick shrubs and 100 or so feet up, my canopy departed the plane. I have a new one on order, but I am seeing if anyone had this problem or if anyone took some more action to really keep that canopy on the plane. If you haven't, you may want to (or mine could have been slightly looser than normal who knows). Also, on landing in grass (somewhat of a rough landing I will admit) the front gear assemblly ripped out of the fuse. Upon inspection, the ply wood that holds the gear mount in is only fused with what looks to be hot glue..... Again maybe I got somewhat of a dud, but I would suggest reinforcing that area (use some 30 minute epoxy right under where you mount the battery or fuel tank.)

-Ian

ciscovet

I also lost a canopy ,luckily the pilots in my club have good eyes and I was able to find it very quickly. For now, my temporary solution is to tape the canopy/fusalage jxn with painters tape.

kroral

Here is how I added a Sullivan S860 tail wheel assembly to my escapade MX
Parts: Sullivan Tailwheel Bracket 40-60 5-12 lbs
Dubro Tail Wheel 1" #100TW
3/32 basswood, #4 X 1/2" sheet metal screws
1. Remove the stock tail wheel assembly.
2. Cut the plastic housing for the stock tailwheel swivel on the fuselage.
Leave the plastic guide on the rudder!
3. Cut a piece of 3/32" hardwood a little larger than the footprint of the Sullivan
replacement bracket. Don’t use anything thicker or the trailing spring assembly won’t fit in to the stock rudder post. Put epoxy on both sides of this piece of wheel and epoxy to fuselage.
4. Place the 1" Dubro tail wheel on the Sullivan axle making sure you make a "flat" on the axle
so the setscrew to retain the wheel does not rotate. Secure wheel with a wheel collar and loctite.
5. Place the Sullivan replacement assemble on the fuselage. Drill 2 1/16" holes in the appropritate
openings in the base of the bracket- making sure the swivel lines up with the rudder hinges.
6. Feed the tail wire assembly ( I used the stiffer wire/spring) from front to back and pass through the
original guide on the rudder. Cut to length and make a 90 degree bend towards the rudder. Make a hole in the rudder and secure with epoxy.
7. Secure the base of the tailwheel assembly to the new hardwood base and secure with #4 sheet metal screws.

GS11

Elevator horn needs to be closer to center fuselage to ease bending pushrod
just a thought

kroral

Thanks for the thought.
I fly off a grass field and it has worked for me.
Happy flying.
Regards,
Bruce