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Larger Revolver

Old 01-12-2012, 05:23 PM
  #4076
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Metalica , you are my help and my force !!

and I will do the pull-pull !! leave ithe tubes as they are ?

Thanks Slow&steady , they are my life , all of them ! Thanks my friend


Let the Force be with you


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Old 01-12-2012, 05:24 PM
  #4077
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: wjcalhoun

Ice
You are on the right track with the servo mods. Two approaches - the lite ply, as you have done, or balsa beams, as I and others have done. I don't think there is much weight difference.

If the tubes are empty, just cut them off at the former on both sides. On my airframe, they were very solidly glued in place, so there is a small part of the tube left in the former.

For pull-pull system ... cut them off or leave it ?
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Old 01-12-2012, 06:15 PM
  #4078
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ORIGINAL: ICEM@N


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ORIGINAL: mach2


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ORIGINAL: ICEM@N

Well , I will show my assembly ...

This is how the throtle servo and Auto Glo System where assembled .
Build's lookin clean man!

The downside to the Rev's slicks looks is that nothing cool fits under the cowl! HAHAHAHA! At least the DLE 20 only hangs out the bottom, so it's not too bad.


Also, I like you custom ''conduit intake''!!!!

I was seaching for a perfect in line air intake , but couldnt find it , so that conduit will help to increase air admission , could be helpfull. Personally I think that many little changes , but efficient ones , can , at final results , give us at last 15% or 25% more performance , and if just your brain knows it , it could give you mental advantage . I lear, this , and got this thought to my life , when I decided to be a Sport Shooter , and I lerned it at its best when I start long range rifle shooting.

Me and my brain thinks that this intake could help us ...
I think it will definitely get more air into the carb. Its better that it sucking it in while the air passes over the opening. Did you glue it on?

By the way, i am a bit of a rifleman myself. I just like doing long range varmint shooting. My farthest hit on a ground squirrel is 720 yards. I "cheat" a little bit though. I shoot from a bi-pod and and a rear bag filled with lead shot. My varmint rifles are a 223, 22-250 and a custom built rem 700 in 6mmBR. The other two are just factory rifles with some cutsom touches on them. Triggers, bedding and stuff like that. I use a rifle basix trigger on my 223 savage, and i use Jewel triggers in my Remingtons. I keep all my triggers the same pull (14 oz.). I also handload all my ammo to get the best accuracy out of them.

Do you shoot highpower, benchrest, F-class???

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Old 01-12-2012, 06:25 PM
  #4079
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ORIGINAL: ICEM@N



Mach2 , is there any tip to do this surgery ?



Hey ICE, this is my first build so these other guys are the real sourse for good help. you are better at building than me im sure. I have decided that im gonna hold off on the dual elev. servos till later. Im just doing the basics to get her flying. Plus im not an advaced pilot (hell, im probably not even intermediate!) so i wont be flying this thing to half of its capabilities.

These dudes on here like wjcalhou, microdon and metallicajunkie have awesome information that they are willing to share!

Thanks again fellas!
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Old 01-12-2012, 06:38 PM
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ORIGINAL: MetallicaJunkie


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ORIGINAL: mach2


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ORIGINAL: MetallicaJunkie

the dle 20 has a #4 ignition and my 30 has a #3... i put a spare stock DLE55 ignition on my 20 and timed it at 28 degrees....Now i dont have that funky idle jump... it never really bothered me much, i just thought WTH ill use my spare IGN on it

The DLE 20 came factory timed at 40 degrees

they have them for 50 bucks http://www.shop.kavarootusa.com/product.sc?productId=12
Are you able to adjust timing on the Ign?[img][/img] Can we run a little more and use some C12 from VP (108 oct).....[img][/img][img][/img][img][/img]

unfortunately no.... but i did shift the Hall sensor over a bit to get at 28 deg.... actually i had to modify it slightly to get enough sliding room...

c-12 sounds good!
Oh shnaps! I'm a gearhead and didnt even think about shifting the the sensor over. Thats a good idea. how far did you move it? Or how did you figure out just how many degrees you moved it? Its a small diameter. Not quite like using a timing wheel on a V8. And how did you know what the stock timing was set at?

It probably wont add much power since the "tuning" is "as is" with the DLE20 (and they only recommend 87-93 octane), but im running 100 octane Sunoco (i used to run it in my 96 camaro SS when i had the blower and methanol injection on it).

I guess its kinda like my buddy who used to run premium fuel in his Chevy avalanche with a stock tune. I used to tell him that he is throwing his money away, but he swore that he got better fuel mileage HAHAHA!

Thanks!

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Old 01-12-2012, 06:46 PM
  #4081
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Mach2 , Iam a begginer !! Learning to fly , with my instrucutor , but why not fly with the Rev with my instructor ?
And this is my first build too !!

About rifles....

I love 22-250 , and .223 ...

I shoot a FMJ , 162g boat tail .308 Winchester , is a Open Class Rifle , and my trainning target is a 6 inches ( a balloon) at 1.000 meters , with a 4 inches group in 10 shoots .
My Sniper Rifle is a Custom made German Mauser , with titanium lockout firing pin , Cryogenic 30" bull barrel (7,5 kg ) 10:1 twist , Timney trigger , the aimimng systems are a Mapped Burris 36x Benchrest Scope and a 1200 yards laser green dot with triger action , all glass bedded in a wood basically PSG stock and a Haris bipod and steel pin at the rear , all assembly with a torquimeter and got the weight off 13kg , so I only shoot with bipod . Standing up is impossible . I shoot only this rifle , and this is one off three things I do better in my life . I love tho explod ballons...

Some day I will find some mini rocket system to install in my rc airplanes ... will be a must
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Old 01-12-2012, 06:55 PM
  #4082
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Now if you guys ever married your two hobbies together - planes and shooting - I just hope you capture it on video.
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Old 01-12-2012, 07:13 PM
  #4083
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Default RE: Larger Revolver


Quote:
ORIGINAL: ICEM@N


Quote:
ORIGINAL: wjcalhoun

Ice
You are on the right track with the servo mods. Two approaches - the lite ply, as you have done, or balsa beams, as I and others have done. I don't think there is much weight difference.

If the tubes are empty, just cut them off at the former on both sides. On my airframe, they were very solidly glued in place, so there is a small part of the tube left in the former.

For pull-pull system ... cut them off or leave it ?
i used them for my pull pull... i used the antena tube and the rudder tube... and if you cut them its no biggie, based on your abilities im sure you can work around it
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Old 01-12-2012, 07:19 PM
  #4084
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: mach2


Quote:
ORIGINAL: MetallicaJunkie


Quote:
ORIGINAL: mach2


Quote:
ORIGINAL: MetallicaJunkie

the dle 20 has a #4 ignition and my 30 has a #3... i put a spare stock DLE55 ignition on my 20 and timed it at 28 degrees....Now i dont have that funky idle jump... it never really bothered me much, i just thought WTH ill use my spare IGN on it

The DLE 20 came factory timed at 40 degrees

they have them for 50 bucks http://www.shop.kavarootusa.com/product.sc?productId=12
Are you able to adjust timing on the Ign?[img][/img] Can we run a little more and use some C12 from VP (108 oct).....[img][/img][img][/img][img][/img]

unfortunately no.... but i did shift the Hall sensor over a bit to get at 28 deg.... actually i had to modify it slightly to get enough sliding room...

c-12 sounds good!
Oh shnaps! I'm a gearhead and didnt even think about shifting the the sensor over. Thats a good idea. how far did you move it? Or how did you figure out just how many degrees you moved it? Its a small diameter. Not quite like using a timing wheel on a V8. And how did you know what the stock timing was set at?

It probably wont add much power since the ''tuning'' is ''as is'' with the DLE20 (and they only recommend 87-93 octane), but im running 100 octane Sunoco (i used to run it in my 96 camaro SS when i had the blower and methanol injection on it).

I guess its kinda like my buddy who used to run premium fuel in his Chevy avalanche with a stock tune. I used to tell him that he is throwing his money away, but he swore that he got better fuel mileage HAHAHA!

Thanks! [img][/img]

hehe................i find top dead center, then use a degree wheel this video is helpful http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z0fvY210-Fo

this is useful too http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBXFp...ure=plpp_video
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Old 01-12-2012, 08:53 PM
  #4085
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Hi All

Maiden flight today for mine. Finished it a while back but weather ,work etc got in the way.

Engine is a DLE 20 , standard servo locations in the centre with dual elevator servos.

Given how much fuel the DLE engines uses, it will take sometime work through 5 litres for breakin.

Great model and flies well. I found the controls a bit "soft" , possibly because I have too much expo. Everyone was impressed. I did notice the delay to idle but no great drama with it.

Initial start was a challenge as the engine was bone dry of fuel. Ended up putting a little in the cylinder to get fuel flow started. This was hint from two long term gasser pilots who dabble in IMAC.

If the weather holds , back to the field tomorrow, and the next day.

Has anyone here flown the smaller version as an electric ?

Shuttle.
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Old 01-12-2012, 10:18 PM
  #4086
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ShuttleAu - Congrats on your Maiden. What prop are you using? How was your vertical and speed? Any problems? How were your landings?
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Old 01-12-2012, 10:49 PM
  #4087
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Hi

Prop is a 16 x 8. I will try a 15 x10 tomorrow , more ground clearance. The local gasser pilots suggested it. They fly DLE and DA engines.

Engine tune was very close , low needle needed to be a touch leaner for a good transition. Did not really try much vertical today. By a touch I mean half the thickness of a fly wing.

Speed was good , but I did take it easy on the throttle for the first flights.

Landings were easy , there was a headwind. I have read the "hot and fast landing" posts but it seems to float in. Faster than a trainer, but not a lot different to other models.

Balance seems spot on. Mine is. 2-3 mm forward of the recommended spot , without fuel.

Issues ? Initial start , as I said. It needed a little fuel in the spark plug hole to start fuel flow. After that starting was.easy , a few flicks. I have the DLE muffler add on fitted to reduce noise. Seems to work and takes the bark out of the exhaust.

Aileron and elevator seemed "soft" , i will work on that by reducing expo and a marginal increase in throws.

All up , awesome model. Not sure if it is a good choice for a second model after trainer. Just my opinion. It is big and powerful.
Shuttle.
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:07 PM
  #4088
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: ICEM@N

Mach2 , Iam a begginer !! Learning to fly , with my instrucutor , but why not fly with the Rev with my instructor ?
And this is my first build too !!

About rifles....

I love 22-250 , and .223 ...

I shoot a FMJ , 162g boat tail .308 Winchester , is a Open Class Rifle , and my trainning target is a 6 inches ( a balloon) at 1.000 meters , with a 4 inches group in 10 shoots .
My Sniper Rifle is a Custom made German Mauser , with titanium lockout firing pin , Cryogenic 30" bull barrel (7,5 kg ) 10:1 twist , Timney trigger , the aimimng systems are a Mapped Burris 36x Benchrest Scope and a 1200 yards laser green dot with triger action , all glass bedded in a wood basically PSG stock and a Haris bipod and steel pin at the rear , all assembly with a torquimeter and got the weight off 13kg , so I only shoot with bipod . Standing up is impossible . I shoot only this rifle , and this is one off three things I do better in my life . I love tho explod ballons...

Some day I will find some mini rocket system to install in my rc airplanes ... will be a must
WOW! 10 shots within 4" at 1000 meters! That's record setting grouping. And with 308??? That's 7mm WSM and 6.5x284 territory!!! And with a 162gr bullet? Most guys who shoot that far with a 308 are using the 185-210gr. VLDs.

and my rifles range from 8-12 pounds and are barrel heavy. Especially the Savage and the Remington in 6mmBR. So standing shots aren't feasible for me either. The factory Savage is a 1" no taper 1-9 twist that I shoot the 75gr amax (223). The Rem in 6mmBR is a Bartlein 5R with a 1-7.5 twist and i shoot the 105gr. Amax in that. The barrel on that thing weighs a ton due to it being a 1.25" straight tapered to 1" and finished at 28". Both rifles are glass bedded by me. I use Devcon 10110 steel putty. Those dont need to be pillar bedded since they have the HS Precision stocks with the full length aluminum bedding blocks. I love those stocks. Really well made Kevlar/graphite-reinforced fiberglass stocks.

Its funny you mention the Mauser. My dad just bought a "custom" spanish Mauser that has a nice octagon barrel (unknown manufacturer)done by Al Story. BUT! It turned out to be a real pretty piece of junk. It didnt feed well because it was chambered in 6.5x284, and those actions dont do well with the 284 case. So i had to change the angle and polish the feed ramp and also had to do a bunch of other stuff to make it function well. The only thing that i didnt have to work on was the Timney trigger that was already in it.

AND THE STOCK! Holy crap. That was a total hack job. It looked like they inletted it with an old pocked knife. And the floor plate was angled and didnt fit right because of it. So i had to make it right by cleaning all that up, making a steel pillar for the rear and I glass bedded it in the front and rear (of course the barreled action touches nowhere else). There is some epoxy in front of the action but that's not touching because i wrap the barrel with tape there so its clearanced.

The first pic below is my Pillar and Glass bedding job on my Remington 700 in 270win hunting rifle.
The second pic is my 6mmBR with a 20moa picatinny rail and a 8.5-25x50mm Leupold long range target scope with 30mm main tube (got the same scope on my Savage).
The other pics are of the work I've been doing on my dads Mauser. Its coming along nicely. I wanna make everything right before I start load development so i know all the variables are outta the equation.

Sorry about the rifle talk fellas. All other off the subject stuff will be done by PM.....

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Old 01-12-2012, 11:14 PM
  #4089
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nice gun stock there mach... is that quilted maple? looks sweet like honey

when i got white tail deer hunting i still use my kiddo rifle Rem 700 243

my dad uses a 270..... any more is overkill here where i live..... i did shoot a 30-06 and a 440 marlin.... they kick ass
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:21 PM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: MetallicaJunkie


Quote:
ORIGINAL: mach2


Quote:
ORIGINAL: MetallicaJunkie


Quote:
ORIGINAL: mach2


Quote:
ORIGINAL: MetallicaJunkie

the dle 20 has a #4 ignition and my 30 has a #3... i put a spare stock DLE55 ignition on my 20 and timed it at 28 degrees....Now i dont have that funky idle jump... it never really bothered me much, i just thought WTH ill use my spare IGN on it

The DLE 20 came factory timed at 40 degrees

they have them for 50 bucks http://www.shop.kavarootusa.com/product.sc?productId=12
Are you able to adjust timing on the Ign?[img][/img] Can we run a little more and use some C12 from VP (108 oct).....[img][/img][img][/img][img][/img]

unfortunately no.... but i did shift the Hall sensor over a bit to get at 28 deg.... actually i had to modify it slightly to get enough sliding room...

c-12 sounds good!
Oh shnaps! I'm a gearhead and didnt even think about shifting the the sensor over. Thats a good idea. how far did you move it? Or how did you figure out just how many degrees you moved it? Its a small diameter. Not quite like using a timing wheel on a V8. And how did you know what the stock timing was set at?

It probably wont add much power since the ''tuning'' is ''as is'' with the DLE20 (and they only recommend 87-93 octane), but im running 100 octane Sunoco (i used to run it in my 96 camaro SS when i had the blower and methanol injection on it).

I guess its kinda like my buddy who used to run premium fuel in his Chevy avalanche with a stock tune. I used to tell him that he is throwing his money away, but he swore that he got better fuel mileage HAHAHA!

Thanks! [img][/img]

hehe................i find top dead center, then use a degree wheel this video is helpful http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z0fvY210-Fo

this is useful too http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBXFp...ure=plpp_video
cool. thanks.

Where can i find one of those degree wheels? i didnt know they had them for these little motors.

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Old 01-12-2012, 11:30 PM
  #4091
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ORIGINAL: MetallicaJunkie

nice gun stock there mach... is that quilted maple? looks sweet like honey

when i got white tail deer hunting i still use my kiddo rifle Rem 700 243

my dad uses a 270..... any more is overkill here where i live..... i did shoot a 30-06 and a 440 marlin.... they kick ass
The 243 is a great rifle for yotes and deer. I took a cow elk in colorado a few years back with my 270. Like you said, i think lots of people go way overboard with their cartridge choices. Everyone thinks you need a 300 ultra mag to kill a deer at 200 yards...

As for the stock, I have no idea. He bought the rifle without knowing hardly anything about it. And im not much into that stuff so I dont know what it is. It is a beauty though.

I shoot mostly synthetics. And my Rem 700 varmint is a lamitated stock. Its the one in the pic i posted of the coyote.

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Old 01-12-2012, 11:38 PM
  #4092
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Oh, ill post about my plane now i suppose.

did a little work tonight. I put everything in the plane where its gonna go (minus the cowl and the prop because i haven't gotten one yet) to give me an idea of where my CG might be. I am rear like i thought id be. Im at about 3/4" back from the recommended, at about 6 1/4" from the leading edge. A quick battery relocation should resolve the issue.

Im sure other's have probably done the same thing i did with the cowl, but i thought id share anyway. Instead of doing it the way the manual says, i thought it would be better to put some blind nuts on the mounting blocks and use some stainless screws. Kinda bulky, but looks nice.I did it because i dont think that the wood screws into the blocks would last very long after repeated removal of the cowl.

So here's some pics....

Also, the spinner back plate ended up 3/16" from the front of the cowl. It looks okay and isn't too much of a gap, but i wanted to have it about half that to make it look real tight....
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:44 PM
  #4093
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Hey Beavis ... he said, "stock" ...
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Old 01-13-2012, 03:27 AM
  #4094
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Guys , we need more videos here , do not wory if youre ugly or too short , or a rookie flying RC like me , all of this doenst matter , we need to see your plane , mods , and flying !!

PLEASE VIDEOS - PLEASE VIDEOS !!!!!
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Old 01-13-2012, 03:45 AM
  #4095
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Mach2 , World record is 4" at 1500 yards ....

so I shoot Lapua ammo , and the 162gr boatails is the most accurate .308 , so you need a power scope , like 36x and a 100x Yukon Spotting Scope .
I shoot for 19 years , and deal with my rifle like a swiss watch , but if you bedd rifles , and /or pillar them is very important but.... You need to uso a torquimeter to tight those screws..

New guys in this forum will read all of this and will say " Why dont you change the Froums name ... Large Revolver .... and named it " JUST A RIFLE " hahahahah



About planes , I will cut off those tubes and let the final section ( at tail) and let the pul-pull cables free in fuselage
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Old 01-13-2012, 05:58 AM
  #4096
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Ice
For the pull-pull, it makes no difference whether you cut them out, or leave them. The only reason to cut them out is if they interfere with placment of your aft elevator servos. The amount of wt saving is negligble. Leaving them in place makes threading the pull-pull cables easier, but if the covering aft is opened up anyway for your elevator servo installation, you can route the cables then.

Nice work on your plane.
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Old 01-13-2012, 07:40 AM
  #4097
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ORIGINAL: wjcalhoun

Ice
For the pull-pull, it makes no difference whether you cut them out, or leave them. The only reason to cut them out is if they interfere with placment of your aft elevator servos. The amount of wt saving is negligble. Leaving them in place makes threading the pull-pull cables easier, but if the covering aft is opened up anyway for your elevator servo installation, you can route the cables then.

Nice work on your plane.

Wj is just thought about cut them out because , they are not aligned for pull-pull , but if ii doesnt matter , better leave , therefore we dont change the ribs structures

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Old 01-13-2012, 08:06 AM
  #4098
ICEM@N
 
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Default RE: Larger Revolver

Wjcalhoun , the DUBRO HeavyDuty Dual Pull-Pull System for .40 - .91 can handle it ?
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:19 AM
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Ice
I cut my guide tubes out for clearance; you are right, they don't really line up perfectly for pull-pull, because the lengths are different, but the EXIT tubes ARE correct if you use the elevator tubes for the pull-pull cables. I use plastic coated fishing leader for my pull-pull cables, so they move very smoothly within the guide tubes. The Dubro system is fine. A strong servo might have 320 in-oz of torque - 20# pull on a 1 inch servo arm. Steel fishing leader can be bought in 20, 30, 50# test, so it is plenty strong.
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Old 01-13-2012, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: wjcalhoun

Ice
I cut my guide tubes out for clearance; you are right, they don't really line up perfectly for pull-pull, because the lengths are different, but the EXIT tubes ARE correct if you use the elevator tubes for the pull-pull cables. I use plastic coated fishing leader for my pull-pull cables, so they move very smoothly within the guide tubes. The Dubro system is fine. A strong servo might have 320 in-oz of torque - 20# pull on a 1 inch servo arm. Steel fishing leader can be bought in 20, 30, 50# test, so it is plenty strong.

Do I need to cross the cables , or they can work pararell ?
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