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Larger Revolver

Old 06-25-2013, 01:08 PM
  #6751
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Default RE: Larger Revolver

2 quick questions
1  Does the firewall need any reinforcement? 
2  Can I use titebond to glue elevator to fuselage? What about the servo blocks for the ailerons? 
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Old 06-25-2013, 02:34 PM
  #6752
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Default RE: Larger Revolver

Everything can be reinforced , if for nothing else piece of mind, the firewall, new and larger hinges on all control surfaces, pin the aileron boxes into the foam, use epoxy, and do the landing gear also, and read the posts about upgrading the tail wheel area, it really doesn't take all that long and its cheap insurance
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Old 06-25-2013, 04:45 PM
  #6753
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Default RE: Larger Revolver

8pr-
Regarding the opti, do you solder? if so, you can turn the 19.95 switch into the 29.95 switch yourself with 2 small dabs of solder? The directions to do that come with it. The modded 19, and the 29 dollar switches will draw power for the ign. module from the receiver connection used to turn the module on and off. Without this feature you have a set up that's not quite as tidy and would use a Y installed somewhere handy to do the same thing with an additional lead coming from the opti switch. The more expensive switch does all that as well as including a voltage regulator - which I don't think you need. So the 29 dollar switch is easy to justify, but if you solder OK, you can do the same thing yourself with the 19 dollar switch.

To tell if you have the newer ign. module, look for the voltage rating marked on it? If it's the newer one it should show 8.4v as the max voltage. If it's an older one it would show 6v. max. I would guess if you just got it from one of the more well know dealers they would be shipping it with the newer one.

You could double check the CG gauge with your fingers? See if they both tell you that it's in the same place? The plane is commonly flown with the CG aft of recommended. How far aft depends on you and what you're looking for the plane to do (just how crazy are you planning to get with it?).

JH313 -
The bottom of the firewall, where it meets the landing gear mounting plate, is a notoriously weak link, with no easy way to reinforce it well enough. They pull apart there very easily on any type of 'less than graceful' landing because of the junk Chinese lite ply used there. It's very easy to reinforce that joint with a piece of sheet aluminum though? You just bend it 90 degrees with maybe an inch on one side, as wide as the landing gear mounting plate on the other side, and as long as the fuse is wide? Match drill the sheet metal for the landing gear, and install some sheet metal screws (6 or 8?) through the metal into the firewall. Bingo! One super tough joint you'll thank yourself for every time you hear about somebody ripping their gear off! -Al
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Old 06-26-2013, 03:44 AM
  #6754
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Default RE: Larger Revolver

Al, once again, I thank you!
I do solder and I believe (????) I found the directions for the soldering steps/points. Is this what you mean??
Also, I hope this is not an "Oh, crap" moment. I found a different landing gear modification/reinforcement post and used it instead (had the materials and it seemed like a good solution {????....I hope...????}... it showed how to reinforce the engine & firewall and bottom of the LG area w/ fiberglass cloth and epoxy, wrapping the cloth up to the engine mount. Either this will work or I will be buying a new fuse (or worse).
Certainly, I will let all know when I get her in the air and land (which may be a while as my schedule is ridiculously packed, arghhhh!)
Here are some pics ( be nice... my first time working with fiberglass, etc.) It also needs to be sanded, filled w/ microballoons or lite-filler or milled fiberglass. Any suggestions or preferences ??

P.S. Great news on the Ignition Module = up to 8.4V !!!

P.S.S. I see you're a late night person too! 1:45AM... I see 2:00AM - 4:00AM most nights.
Thanks again
8pr
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Old 06-26-2013, 04:47 AM
  #6755
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Default RE: Larger Revolver

8pr, i did the fiberglass reinforcment as per your photos a number of years back and it has served me well. grass landing strip- no issues. i just lightly sanded and recovered.
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Old 06-26-2013, 04:49 AM
  #6756
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Default RE: Larger Revolver

That is great to hear... very reassuring. Thank you very much Capt!
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Old 06-26-2013, 04:53 AM
  #6757
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Default RE: Larger Revolver

Nice work, I bet she will take a hard landing
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Old 06-26-2013, 04:56 AM
  #6758
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Let's hope so, because I KNOW I will be hitting down hard as I learn the landing techique & idiosyncracies of this plane. Thank you for your support, I appreciate it greatly.
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Old 06-26-2013, 05:08 AM
  #6759
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Default RE: Larger Revolver

8pr - yes, that pic of the solder jumpers is a good one! While you have the case off/apart doing this, you can remove that 4th lead that would normally be powering it. With the jumpers installed, you won't be needing it any more. BTW, I'm not sure if VV is doing this mod and selling them for a little extra to cover the cost, or if they are being supplied this way right from Rcexl?

Regarding the reinforcement, the plan is to reinforce that joint. How you do it not important, and material used best chosen by what you're most familiar with? I must have some tin smith in my blood as I find that method easier. Your glass job looks great from where I'm sitting!

Not generally too much on late late nights. Not sure how that time came up, unless it was West coast time? -Al
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Old 06-26-2013, 05:53 AM
  #6760
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Default RE: Larger Revolver

ahicks, Wow, that would be something if VV is doing the mod and bumping the price up. An easy $10.00 a pop for them... boooooo! I guess we'll never know, but I know I will be buying the $19.95 one and doing the mod. If you think of any other special tips or how-to's, please let me know and I will incorporate into the build. Thank you very much.

Ummmmm, which wires should I cut/de-solder? If you could, please direct me from the photo linked above. Thanks, Al.

So much reading, so little time I am slowly getting through the documents posted in this thread for the ingition and the plumbing.

Thank you for all your help and kind words. I would love tin-smithing or metalworking for a hobby. I can weld with an acetylene torch, but haven't done it in years (too many years!)

The time must be RCU's local time (West Coast), I would guess??

Again, thank you! Everyone has been a great help!


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Old 06-26-2013, 06:22 AM
  #6761
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Default RE: Larger Revolver

I can't tell you from just looking at that pic, but if you have the switch installed with one lead (the one w/3 wires) plugged into the receiver, the 2nd plugged into the ign. module, you're going to have the wire to the LED and one more wire left over. That's the wire I'm suggesting be removed. Probably much simpler to get your head wrapped around what I'm saying with it in hand. -Al
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Old 06-26-2013, 06:41 AM
  #6762
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I agree with getting the Opto-switch in my hand... it will be much easier for me to understand.

Also Al,  the RCEXL switch for the $29.95 says it has a BEC.  If I buy the $19.95 one, will I not have the BEC?  Do I need a BEC?

Sorry for all the questions and naivety. 

Thanks!
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Old 06-26-2013, 07:02 AM
  #6763
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Default RE: Larger Revolver

BEC = battery eliminator circuit.
Functionally, with that, the switch no longer requires a (separate/dedicated) battery connection as that power is being fed to the circuit using power supplied by the same connection used to control the switch?

To further enlighten/confuse, it should be understood there is a power buss type circuit encompasssing everything on the receiver circuit. The black is ground, the red is battery voltage, and the white is signal. This is true ANYWHERE within the wiring on the plane. All this mod does on the 19. dollar switch is to switch the input to the ign module, to the lead coming from the receiver. As it arrives from the factory, that power is supplied by that lead we were talking about removing previously? Sorry if that doesn't make sense. I'm not an electronics guru.... -Al
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Old 06-26-2013, 07:08 AM
  #6764
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Actually, it makes sense, and I "think" I get it. Bottomline is, no BEC needed, and no $29.95 product required. I beklieve everyone who does this mod, agrees with you. At least from what I can tell in various online readings.

I am no electronics guru either, so we are brethren in that regard!

Thanks for your help, Al.

I will be back on here as I build the Revolver further, so I will be bothering everyone again! Seriously, what a nice group of people here!

- 8pr
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Old 06-26-2013, 10:07 AM
  #6765
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Default RE: Larger Revolver


Quote:
ORIGINAL: ahicks

8pr-
Regarding the opti, do you solder? if so, you can turn the 19.95 switch into the 29.95 switch yourself with 2 small dabs of solder? The directions to do that come with it. The modded 19, and the 29 dollar switches will draw power for the ign. module from the receiver connection used to turn the module on and off. Without this feature you have a set up that's not quite as tidy and would use a Y installed somewhere handy to do the same thing with an additional lead coming from the opti switch. The more expensive switch does all that as well as including a voltage regulator - which I don't think you need. So the 29 dollar switch is easy to justify, but if you solder OK, you can do the same thing yourself with the 19 dollar switch.

To tell if you have the newer ign. module, look for the voltage rating marked on it? If it's the newer one it should show 8.4v as the max voltage. If it's an older one it would show 6v. max. I would guess if you just got it from one of the more well know dealers they would be shipping it with the newer one.

You could double check the CG gauge with your fingers? See if they both tell you that it's in the same place? The plane is commonly flown with the CG aft of recommended. How far aft depends on you and what you're looking for the plane to do (just how crazy are you planning to get with it?).

JH313 -
The bottom of the firewall, where it meets the landing gear mounting plate, is a notoriously weak link, with no easy way to reinforce it well enough. They pull apart there very easily on any type of 'less than graceful' landing because of the junk Chinese lite ply used there. It's very easy to reinforce that joint with a piece of sheet aluminum though? You just bend it 90 degrees with maybe an inch on one side, as wide as the landing gear mounting plate on the other side, and as long as the fuse is wide? Match drill the sheet metal for the landing gear, and install some sheet metal screws (6 or 8?) through the metal into the firewall. Bingo! One super tough joint you'll thank yourself for every time you hear about somebody ripping their gear off! -Al
Ahicks, I am a little cloudy as to the opti setup. Are you stating that with the mod, you would no longer need a separate switch for your ignition? I still use an ignition battery since I don't have an UBEC in the circuit so I am not understanding what the gain of soldering this is?

In other words, the mod will only use the receiver power and you don't need the addtional ignition switch? I have two planes setup with opti kils and each has a separate ignition switch and battery. I control he engine kill with a radio channel assigned to the opti kill to stop the engine with I flip a switch.
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Old 06-26-2013, 05:32 PM
  #6766
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Default RE: Larger Revolver

Luchnia,
Yes, what I was talking about is all regarding a single battery setup. The mod is basically installing a BEC in a standard Rcexl opti, which sounds really complicated, but as you can see amounts to a couple dabs of solder! With BEC installed, second battery no longer required.

Unless....

You're going to run an NiMh battery? There, you are left with questionable amperage capacity. In that case we can wire in a second identical NiMh a little differently, and enjoy the redundancy of 2 on/off switches supplying power to the receiver circuit, and double the available amperage from a NiMh?

Not hard either. Power from second battery is run to the second switch, and from there to a Y installed in the rudder circuit. This gives power to the rudder (your biggest and/or highest power drain servo) a straight shot to the second battery without having to go through the receiver buss (mentioned above). When there's nothing going on with the rudder, voltage (and amperage!) is available where needed, though it would be routed through the receiver buss. This means that second battery is capable of backing up the first battery in the case of a bad switch OR a bad connection anywhere else in the circuit?

I run this same circuit (second switch powering a Y in the rudder circuit) in all my single battery planes. Instead of the second battery though, I use a second power lead coming from the A123 battery. Switch and power redundacy, along with double the available amperage (due to restrictions due to wire size).
-Al
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:55 AM
  #6767
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Default RE: Larger Revolver


Quote:
ORIGINAL: ahicks

Luchnia,
Yes, what I was talking about is all regarding a single battery setup. The mod is basically installing a BEC in a standard Rcexl opti, which sounds really complicated, but as you can see amounts to a couple dabs of solder! With BEC installed, second battery no longer required.

Unless....

You're going to run an NiMh battery? There, you are left with questionable amperage capacity. In that case we can wire in a second identical NiMh a little differently, and enjoy the redundancy of 2 on/off switches supplying power to the receiver circuit, and double the available amperage from a NiMh?

Not hard either. Power from second battery is run to the second switch, and from there to a Y installed in the rudder circuit. This gives power to the rudder (your biggest and/or highest power drain servo) a straight shot to the second battery without having to go through the receiver buss (mentioned above). When there's nothing going on with the rudder, voltage (and amperage!) is available where needed, though it would be routed through the receiver buss. This means that second battery is capable of backing up the first battery in the case of a bad switch OR a bad connection anywhere else in the circuit?

I run this same circuit (second switch powering a Y in the rudder circuit) in all my single battery planes. Instead of the second battery though, I use a second power lead coming from the A123 battery. Switch and power redundacy, along with double the available amperage (due to restrictions due to wire size).
-Al
Ok, that makes sense. If we are running 4.8V ignition with the A123s we would still need an inline voltage drop down regulator to our ignitions to provide a more accurate voltage to the ignition. I have a nice Ultra UBEC but have just been too lazy to install it. I plan to put that on my 50cc gasser though, howevere due to space on the Revolver it would be a great candidate for a UBEC.

I do think this is a nice modification though especially on planes in the 30cc size to eliminate not having two switches to bother with all the time. For some it is peace of mind, yet for me I don't think I need so much redundancy for a plane that size.

I have actually gotten side-tracked and forgot to turn my ignition switch on a few times and had one of those "doh" looks on my face when I could not get the engine started and when I realized it was because I had the switch off
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Old 06-27-2013, 04:09 AM
  #6768
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Default RE: Larger Revolver

A single 50 cent Radio Shack diode will knock down A123 voltage to a level that will let a 4.8-6v. ign. module live happily for a long time? Some aren't even doing that any more (w/A123 batteries), but for the price, time, trouble to do that, makes me sleep better.

I generally travel to/from the field pretty light, but have found it's wise to carry an extra spark plug with me for those "doh" moments. I'm pretty good at forgetting to turn the transmitter switch on occasionally as well..... how frustrating to finally look down at the trans and realize you've just flooded the heck out of the engine out of pure 100% stupidity! DARN IT!!!!
-Al
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Old 06-30-2013, 04:40 PM
  #6769
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Default RE: Larger Revolver

As everyone can see, my first post! I have been following this post for some time though as I just love the Revolver series (I have all three). I am in the process of building the Revolver 60 with a DLE 20 and the Giant Revolver with a DLE 55. This forum has provided a LOT of good advice; and I really appreciate all of the great posts so far!  Perhaps it is my turn to offer some hints and suggestions for these two builds. Currently, I am flying the Revolver 40 and I have a blast with it! If anyone is still interested, I will post some pics very soon of the Revolver 60 project.
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Old 06-30-2013, 05:22 PM
  #6770
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Great, another Revolver coming on line! New thoughts, pics, ideas MORE than welcome!

Welcome to the group, AND to a 20cc Revolver!

-Al
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Old 06-30-2013, 05:30 PM
  #6771
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Default RE: Larger Revolver

Hi Kit
Welcome
I think you will find that the three planes have their own characters, with the R59 most quirky and unpredictable, and the R90 a really lovely flier. Although for speed, my personal record is with my R70/DLE20 with a measured GPS speed, averaging upwind and downwind of 118 mph. The R70 is quick!

I was out with my R90 today; great plane (microdon2 - you need this plane!) for Sunday flying. Snaps are slower, lazier, than I get with my Extras, but she transitioned beautifully from an accelerated knife-edge spin to an inverted flat spin just by adding a bit or R aileron. Prettiest transition of all my planes.

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Old 06-30-2013, 07:30 PM
  #6772
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wjc - I think you're right! I was flying with my friend this morning - the one that has the Rev 90 \ DEL 55. What a gorgeous airplane! It looks like a shark with wings! And that DLE 55 - what power! And it sounds already broken in - no gurgling, no missing. And the vertical - looked unlimited! He's spinning an APC 22x10 - I told him he's probably see a noticeable improvement with a Xoar 22x10 (not that he needs one right now - just his third day out with the plane.

I had an excellent morning, too - was flying my Blue Hawk 42" profile bipe w\ OS 46 (new engine - really moves this plane!), and my CG Sukhoi \ DLE 30. The engine was giving me trouble - kept flooding. So I started the needles from default positions, but the engine was still missing at mid and WOT. So I put out feelers here on RCU, and got a helpful suggestion from ahicks - to gap the plug at .024". Well, I checked and my plug gap was only .010"!! (not sure how). So I re-gapped it last night and today - sure enough - the DLE 30 is running AWESOME!! NO skipping at ALL. The Sukhoi flies amazing. (time to put on the Xoar 18x10 again...) I LOVE it when problems get fixed.
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Old 07-01-2013, 05:04 AM
  #6773
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Thanks Al! I think that I am going to enjoy becoming more active in RCU!
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Old 07-01-2013, 05:10 AM
  #6774
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: wjcalhoun

Hi Kit
Welcome
I think you will find that the three planes have their own characters, with the R59 most quirky and unpredictable, and the R90 a really lovely flier.

WJC - I will agree with you concerning the smaller Rev and I am very excited about getting the Rev with DLE 20 in the air! Thanks for the welcome!
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Old 07-04-2013, 04:43 PM
  #6775
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Will fly the Rev 70 tomorrow! There should be some pics attached.
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