Larger Revolver
06-10-2014, 01:38 AM
#7452
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Mach2 I apologize. I was looking for anyone that might have used a tray mounted rudder servo with 4-40 rod AND switched out the plastic guide tube so that it would not bind. I feel that spreading load with 2 elevator servos with 2-56 should suffice for that but want to go with heavier rod for rudder i/l/o pull/pull. Sorry about that and I will pay more attention to my question phrasing.
06-10-2014, 03:42 AM
#7453
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Yeah I don't play any games with a gasoline engine. Thoes things among others will chop you or someone else up. And not even think about it. Witch we all know. Man I had a crrc/Thor 45cc engine once m never again!!. The front drive hub snapped off the engine. Just as I had started it up. The prop flew past me! My gf was freaking out. Cause the plane was roaring lime something she'd never heard. I flipped the kill and said what? Lol. I was still in shock of what just happened. I have pics of that to. I will post if anyone interested!
06-10-2014, 07:49 AM
#7454
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Just throwing out there, this is how i set up Revolver 70. Elevator rods are 2mm carbon, and the pull-pull is kevlar rope (obviously pretty thin). I like the setups others have done to move the elevator servos in the back, but i was afraid as to what that would do to the CG. I am happy to say that this setup with a DLE20RA in the front does not require a drop of lead to balance to on the factor recommended CG.
Well that was my two cents, pass the podium to the next
Well that was my two cents, pass the podium to the next
Last edited by teckbot; 06-10-2014 at 09:20 AM. Reason: Forgot the photo
06-10-2014, 09:19 AM
#7455
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Proline
You obviously will decide for yourself, based on your flying style and aggressiveness how to set up your rudder and elevator. IMHO pull pull is probably the best solution for the R70 (like teckbot and others have dome), rather than a rod. 4-40 will be pretty heavy back there. For my style, 2-56 is way too flexible for that length of elevator control without substantial stiffening. If you use tray mounts, consider NOT using the guide tubes, and instead epoxy a carbon fiber tube over the rod; you will have to make proper exit holes etc, but those carbon reinforced rods will not flex. if you are planning to fly more conservatively, then flex in the rudder rods may not be as much of an issue. Consider however, that any difference in the amount of flexing of the port and starboard elevator rod will induce a roll moment to your plane, because the elevators may not be exactly in sync, AND the difference will be dynamic based on pressure on the control surface etc, not static, and therefore cannot be trimmed out.
You obviously will decide for yourself, based on your flying style and aggressiveness how to set up your rudder and elevator. IMHO pull pull is probably the best solution for the R70 (like teckbot and others have dome), rather than a rod. 4-40 will be pretty heavy back there. For my style, 2-56 is way too flexible for that length of elevator control without substantial stiffening. If you use tray mounts, consider NOT using the guide tubes, and instead epoxy a carbon fiber tube over the rod; you will have to make proper exit holes etc, but those carbon reinforced rods will not flex. if you are planning to fly more conservatively, then flex in the rudder rods may not be as much of an issue. Consider however, that any difference in the amount of flexing of the port and starboard elevator rod will induce a roll moment to your plane, because the elevators may not be exactly in sync, AND the difference will be dynamic based on pressure on the control surface etc, not static, and therefore cannot be trimmed out.
Last edited by wjcalhoun; 06-10-2014 at 09:24 AM.
06-10-2014, 10:35 AM
#7457
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Just throwing out there, this is how i set up Revolver 70. Elevator rods are 2mm carbon, and the pull-pull is kevlar rope (obviously pretty thin). I like the setups others have done to move the elevator servos in the back, but i was afraid as to what that would do to the CG. I am happy to say that this setup with a DLE20RA in the front does not require a drop of lead to balance to on the factor recommended CG.
Well that was my two cents, pass the podium to the next
Well that was my two cents, pass the podium to the next
06-10-2014, 10:45 AM
#7458
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Proline
You obviously will decide for yourself, based on your flying style and aggressiveness how to set up your rudder and elevator. IMHO pull pull is probably the best solution for the R70 (like teckbot and others have dome), rather than a rod. 4-40 will be pretty heavy back there. For my style, 2-56 is way too flexible for that length of elevator control without substantial stiffening. If you use tray mounts, consider NOT using the guide tubes, and instead epoxy a carbon fiber tube over the rod; you will have to make proper exit holes etc, but those carbon reinforced rods will not flex. if you are planning to fly more conservatively, then flex in the rudder rods may not be as much of an issue. Consider however, that any difference in the amount of flexing of the port and starboard elevator rod will induce a roll moment to your plane, because the elevators may not be exactly in sync, AND the difference will be dynamic based on pressure on the control surface etc, not static, and therefore cannot be trimmed out.
You obviously will decide for yourself, based on your flying style and aggressiveness how to set up your rudder and elevator. IMHO pull pull is probably the best solution for the R70 (like teckbot and others have dome), rather than a rod. 4-40 will be pretty heavy back there. For my style, 2-56 is way too flexible for that length of elevator control without substantial stiffening. If you use tray mounts, consider NOT using the guide tubes, and instead epoxy a carbon fiber tube over the rod; you will have to make proper exit holes etc, but those carbon reinforced rods will not flex. if you are planning to fly more conservatively, then flex in the rudder rods may not be as much of an issue. Consider however, that any difference in the amount of flexing of the port and starboard elevator rod will induce a roll moment to your plane, because the elevators may not be exactly in sync, AND the difference will be dynamic based on pressure on the control surface etc, not static, and therefore cannot be trimmed out.
06-10-2014, 11:46 AM
#7459
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I will probably get flak for this, but I just want to express an opinion. Everyone has their way of enjoying this hobby, which is what makes it so much fun, there is nothing set in stone.
I have been flying for over 40 years, and it took me a period to decide to try ARFs, as I loved building from kits and I could make all the modifications I wanted while I built. But now if I want a certain ARF I generally want to fly it as quickly as possible.
I am a sports flyer which my definition is, I don’t have to be precise as pattern pilots, and like to just go fly for fun. If I was entering contests I wouldn’t be flying a Revolver to do it anyway.
Therefore the airplane doesn’t have to be ‘exactly’ one way or another, as long as it will do what I like doing with it.
I bought a Revolver 70. Other than setting it up for Electric I didn’t do any kit bashing. I normally like two elevator servos on split elevators, but decided to go with the one servo assuming the plane had been tested that way before they released it. I used the supplied pushrods and hardware, and have flown the Revolver over a year. The only problem I had with the kit was after the first landing. I had to turn fast to keep from running off the end of the runway and the gear came off. Nothing was broken or bent, there simply wasn’t enough glue on the block. I put it back on using epoxy and added a brace or two, used the Same gear and haven’t had a problem since.
My point is; you don’t Have to do all the modifications on the Revolver if you just want to fly and have fun. The airplane flies Fine with what came in the box.
If you love to kit bash. (yes I have done my share of that too) The best thing is to decide what you want to accomplish with your bashing and go for it.
If you are one that just loves putting in pull pull rudder, great. If you want to move the servos to the tail, great. But if you have never done any those things, there is no reason to do them just because other fliers do it. Your Revolver will still fly great.
But if you think you “Have” to do such and such because other flyers have done that, then what are you gaining? And if you have to ask step by step everything to do without trying something for yourself and figuring the best way to do it, then you have missed another fun side of the hobby. To repeat, nothing is set in stone. Find your own way of enjoying the build and learn while you are doing it.
To me the reason anyone would want to make changes is to personalize the plane for YOUR own particular likes and purposes, and I think the best part of making those changes is to decide what you want to do then come up with your Own ideas on how to do it. Anyone who has reached the level needed to fly a Revolver has obviously Some experience with RC. Put that experience to work.
It doesn’t have to be exactly like someone else has already done. Try something new.
Or maybe the changes are strictly personal, and don’t add anything.. For example, if someone decided to use blue silicone tubing instead of grey, there is no real reason for you to go out and buy the blue, and spend weeks asking where they got it, what brand did they get, will blue last as long as grey, and all. If you have to try a new color fuel tubing, heck, go out on a limb and maybe try red, or get really out of the box and try Orange. Besides if you try something new and it works, you have something to share with others who want to be different but are afraid to be original at the same time.
OK, I’ve had my say, you may now “comment bash” me if you want.
I have been flying for over 40 years, and it took me a period to decide to try ARFs, as I loved building from kits and I could make all the modifications I wanted while I built. But now if I want a certain ARF I generally want to fly it as quickly as possible.
I am a sports flyer which my definition is, I don’t have to be precise as pattern pilots, and like to just go fly for fun. If I was entering contests I wouldn’t be flying a Revolver to do it anyway.
Therefore the airplane doesn’t have to be ‘exactly’ one way or another, as long as it will do what I like doing with it.
I bought a Revolver 70. Other than setting it up for Electric I didn’t do any kit bashing. I normally like two elevator servos on split elevators, but decided to go with the one servo assuming the plane had been tested that way before they released it. I used the supplied pushrods and hardware, and have flown the Revolver over a year. The only problem I had with the kit was after the first landing. I had to turn fast to keep from running off the end of the runway and the gear came off. Nothing was broken or bent, there simply wasn’t enough glue on the block. I put it back on using epoxy and added a brace or two, used the Same gear and haven’t had a problem since.
My point is; you don’t Have to do all the modifications on the Revolver if you just want to fly and have fun. The airplane flies Fine with what came in the box.
If you love to kit bash. (yes I have done my share of that too) The best thing is to decide what you want to accomplish with your bashing and go for it.
If you are one that just loves putting in pull pull rudder, great. If you want to move the servos to the tail, great. But if you have never done any those things, there is no reason to do them just because other fliers do it. Your Revolver will still fly great.
But if you think you “Have” to do such and such because other flyers have done that, then what are you gaining? And if you have to ask step by step everything to do without trying something for yourself and figuring the best way to do it, then you have missed another fun side of the hobby. To repeat, nothing is set in stone. Find your own way of enjoying the build and learn while you are doing it.
To me the reason anyone would want to make changes is to personalize the plane for YOUR own particular likes and purposes, and I think the best part of making those changes is to decide what you want to do then come up with your Own ideas on how to do it. Anyone who has reached the level needed to fly a Revolver has obviously Some experience with RC. Put that experience to work.
It doesn’t have to be exactly like someone else has already done. Try something new.
Or maybe the changes are strictly personal, and don’t add anything.. For example, if someone decided to use blue silicone tubing instead of grey, there is no real reason for you to go out and buy the blue, and spend weeks asking where they got it, what brand did they get, will blue last as long as grey, and all. If you have to try a new color fuel tubing, heck, go out on a limb and maybe try red, or get really out of the box and try Orange. Besides if you try something new and it works, you have something to share with others who want to be different but are afraid to be original at the same time.
OK, I’ve had my say, you may now “comment bash” me if you want.
06-10-2014, 01:30 PM
#7461
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Just a few comments.
I think that the whole idea of these forums, and this one in particular, has been the 'family' atmosphere where folk can 'chat' as you would at the club, asking all sorts of questions -- some useful and sometimes seemingly silly. With gas engines becoming much cheaper, and as the realities of very expensive batteries for electric systems in larger planes bite, there are a lot of newbies out there who need help with the absolute basics of both larger planes and safe use of gas engines for example. Some posters live in isolated countries where access to even small sundries like screws and bolts is difficult. Asking silly things on these forums as to what to consider using and where to get these in the US for example, goes a long way to a successful and safe build. I think that a lot of ARF builders do like to tinker, and I think, that the Revolver is an excellent plane stock, but it is truly brilliant with some mods. It has been a pleasure for me to see all the different approaches that folk have posted. Then the experimentation can begin -- but ONLY if you want to. Forums often create the impression that modification is ESSENTIAL to fly the plane successfully, but as RoyR pointed out, most ARFS will fly stock.
I gained many useful ideas from this thread and currently have strong, precise plane which flies safely at over 100mph with totally slop free twin aft elevator servos, a carbon rod for the rudder, Robart round pin hinges, strong undercarriage and successfully installed DLE 20, none of which would have happened without the help on this forum.
PS Opto kill switches are essential I think and our club insists on them.
Just my thoughts. Keep up the questions.
I think that the whole idea of these forums, and this one in particular, has been the 'family' atmosphere where folk can 'chat' as you would at the club, asking all sorts of questions -- some useful and sometimes seemingly silly. With gas engines becoming much cheaper, and as the realities of very expensive batteries for electric systems in larger planes bite, there are a lot of newbies out there who need help with the absolute basics of both larger planes and safe use of gas engines for example. Some posters live in isolated countries where access to even small sundries like screws and bolts is difficult. Asking silly things on these forums as to what to consider using and where to get these in the US for example, goes a long way to a successful and safe build. I think that a lot of ARF builders do like to tinker, and I think, that the Revolver is an excellent plane stock, but it is truly brilliant with some mods. It has been a pleasure for me to see all the different approaches that folk have posted. Then the experimentation can begin -- but ONLY if you want to. Forums often create the impression that modification is ESSENTIAL to fly the plane successfully, but as RoyR pointed out, most ARFS will fly stock.
I gained many useful ideas from this thread and currently have strong, precise plane which flies safely at over 100mph with totally slop free twin aft elevator servos, a carbon rod for the rudder, Robart round pin hinges, strong undercarriage and successfully installed DLE 20, none of which would have happened without the help on this forum.
PS Opto kill switches are essential I think and our club insists on them.
Just my thoughts. Keep up the questions.
06-10-2014, 01:48 PM
#7462
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RoyR, very well put. What you said was spot on. I don't think anyone can bash that. As I said, the equipment supplied with the plane work just fine (not the toughest stuff, so I'd recommend doing thorough pre-flight checks as we always should). But, if a person's particular flying/building style differ that's just fine. We all take a different approach which usually are bits and pieces from what we've seen others do.
Teckbot, that set up on the rudder and elevator looks clean and strong. Very nice. Just wondering, you may not use much throw on your elevator, but do you get any bind from the rods since the tubes are fixed? My Edge 540 had room for the tubes to move left and right when the servo arms move to compensate the arc of the arms.
Proline - no big deal, but as Al mentioned it's best to give as much information on what your specific goal is and how you plan on setting something up. There are so many different methods of doing stuff, you can't get detailed answers with vague questions.
Teckbot, that set up on the rudder and elevator looks clean and strong. Very nice. Just wondering, you may not use much throw on your elevator, but do you get any bind from the rods since the tubes are fixed? My Edge 540 had room for the tubes to move left and right when the servo arms move to compensate the arc of the arms.
Proline - no big deal, but as Al mentioned it's best to give as much information on what your specific goal is and how you plan on setting something up. There are so many different methods of doing stuff, you can't get detailed answers with vague questions.
06-10-2014, 02:51 PM
#7463
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Nice to see some of these long time Revolver owner/pilots on here again. It does add to the "family" atmosphere, helping to make this forum as great as any out there anywhere. I for one, am proud to be able to participate..... -Al
Last edited by ahicks; 06-10-2014 at 02:54 PM.
06-10-2014, 04:37 PM
#7464
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Teckbot, that set up on the rudder and elevator looks clean and strong. Very nice. Just wondering, you may not use much throw on your elevator, but do you get any bind from the rods since the tubes are fixed? My Edge 540 had room for the tubes to move left and right when the servo arms move to compensate the arc of the arms.
I set this plane up primarily to learn basic IMAC routines, so it will definitely will not see the demands of 3D plane. I think she will be a good ship for the task at hand! or at least untill i can save up my pennies for a CARF or (dreaming really big) a KRILL.
06-11-2014, 10:00 AM
#7465
Although I don't have my Revolver now (hit a tall tree one day),I still frequent this thread at times. I is a very helpful thread and you are right many of the mods do not have to be done. I flew my Revolver very aggressively and the only mod that was ever done was some extra epoxy inside the fuse down next to the landing gear support area and I ran the stock landing gear (on Sod too) and never upgraded it.
06-12-2014, 05:16 AM
#7466
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Yes, when I wrote my post it wasn’t just for the Revolver, but I notice on many threads it seems new people are under the impression that you Must make these changes for the plane to fly good.
In fact I sometime find myself caught up that way. I am new to Gas and read many threads on the motor I bought where people said they did this and that and drilled and modified, and I would think, “wow, I wonder if I need to do that?” Then I realized, No, these engines will run just fine out of the box, if I want to modify them later then I can, but not just to fly.
So yeah, kit bashing, or modifying or any of that is a Good thing. People can improve the performance and enjoy the satisfaction of coming up with their own ideas to make things better. I have learned a lot and tried many things that I read on RC universe.
Just don’t feel you need to do those things before you can fly. As they say in Louisiana, those modifications are Lagniappe. (a little something extra to sweeten the pot)
In fact I sometime find myself caught up that way. I am new to Gas and read many threads on the motor I bought where people said they did this and that and drilled and modified, and I would think, “wow, I wonder if I need to do that?” Then I realized, No, these engines will run just fine out of the box, if I want to modify them later then I can, but not just to fly.
So yeah, kit bashing, or modifying or any of that is a Good thing. People can improve the performance and enjoy the satisfaction of coming up with their own ideas to make things better. I have learned a lot and tried many things that I read on RC universe.
Just don’t feel you need to do those things before you can fly. As they say in Louisiana, those modifications are Lagniappe. (a little something extra to sweeten the pot)
06-13-2014, 11:13 AM
#7467
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Roy R - I'm guessing that your #7459 was directed at me, so I'll respond. I'm not arguing, or picking on you, but I think you misrepresented the tone of the comments about modifications.
#1, we live in the USA, and nobody is forced to do anything yet, except pay taxes. Bash, or not, It is entirely up to you. I don't believe that any of us who suggest mods - ahicks, microdon2, myself, among many others, takes the position that everyone must do their mods. I think we are just trying to be helpful.
#2. I think the consensus is that you WILL do the LG mod. Either do it before it breaks, or do it after it breaks, but most (>90%) are going to have to deal with a LG issue on the R70 (and R90 and R57).
#3. Anyone who wants to fly a stock R70, with its inherent limitations (semi-symmetrical wing, clevises on control surfaces, 0.75 size glow engine, etc) is more than welcome to do so. The point of the modifications is FOR THOSE WHO WANT TO IMPROVE THE PERFORMANCE of their plane, there are modifications that work. Take a look; choose what you want. Ignore what you don't like.
I think we are just trying to be helpful.
Bill
#1, we live in the USA, and nobody is forced to do anything yet, except pay taxes. Bash, or not, It is entirely up to you. I don't believe that any of us who suggest mods - ahicks, microdon2, myself, among many others, takes the position that everyone must do their mods. I think we are just trying to be helpful.
#2. I think the consensus is that you WILL do the LG mod. Either do it before it breaks, or do it after it breaks, but most (>90%) are going to have to deal with a LG issue on the R70 (and R90 and R57).
#3. Anyone who wants to fly a stock R70, with its inherent limitations (semi-symmetrical wing, clevises on control surfaces, 0.75 size glow engine, etc) is more than welcome to do so. The point of the modifications is FOR THOSE WHO WANT TO IMPROVE THE PERFORMANCE of their plane, there are modifications that work. Take a look; choose what you want. Ignore what you don't like.
I think we are just trying to be helpful.
Bill
06-13-2014, 04:07 PM
#7468
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wjcalhoun, My message was NOT directed at you or any one person, (although this one is) and I’m sorry you took it as a criticism of any kind. In fact, looking back at what you wrote, I thought your comments were helpful.
I was intending my comments for the new RC pilots, some of which are under the impression that they MUST make all of the changes people talk about on these boards in order to have a successful flying airplane. Please read both of my comments and you will see it was informative, not critical. I also make changes to my airplanes when I need to, or just want to.
I tried to word it to Not be critical of anyone, and apparently that didn’t work with you. I was not singling out anyone who likes to kit bash, or improve their models. You just read what you wanted to read. I’m sorry you think the world revolves around you, but really, until this last post from you I didn’t take notice to what you in particular said at all. I was taking all the comments together.
So do what you want to your models, and I’ll do what I want with mine, but neither of us should tell someone else that’s what they Have to do to theirs. Only suggest what works for us.
And that’s All I have to say about that.
I was intending my comments for the new RC pilots, some of which are under the impression that they MUST make all of the changes people talk about on these boards in order to have a successful flying airplane. Please read both of my comments and you will see it was informative, not critical. I also make changes to my airplanes when I need to, or just want to.
I tried to word it to Not be critical of anyone, and apparently that didn’t work with you. I was not singling out anyone who likes to kit bash, or improve their models. You just read what you wanted to read. I’m sorry you think the world revolves around you, but really, until this last post from you I didn’t take notice to what you in particular said at all. I was taking all the comments together.
So do what you want to your models, and I’ll do what I want with mine, but neither of us should tell someone else that’s what they Have to do to theirs. Only suggest what works for us.
And that’s All I have to say about that.
06-13-2014, 05:09 PM
#7469
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I for one, would like to know what's working when I read a string like this one. That's why I seek a forum like this out, maybe even before selecting a kit? To gain from the experiences of those ahead of me? As a gasaholic, when making the jump from mfg. suggested power to gas, knowing what works ahead of time so I can use this knowledge during my build, can save me a lot of time (and maybe a lot of money/frustration) figuring out for myself!
There are obviously a lot of these R70's built with all 3 power sources. If there's an issue here, it's figuring out what level/standard the plane being discussed at any given time is being built to. Guys building a plane with smaller glow power might not need tail mounted servos using HD hardware that a gas builder might want. Obviously, the gasser airframe is going to be stressed much differently than a lighter glow or even moderately powered electric. This fact needs to be picked up on early when going through this string! Some of us (yes me!) build this plane knowing full well if it's in the air, it's very likely being hammered on/abused. This could also be somebody's 3rd plane, and is not likely to benefit much from some of the mods found on one of my planes?
So, regarding the discussion above, maybe we can leave it like this? With the ability of this plane to be built to so many different standards, it should go without saying that not everyone will need all the mods mentioned. YOU need to be the judge, because as the planes' builder/pilot, YOU have ultimate authority. That said, thinking even the builder of a .60 powered ship might enjoy reading what the gas guys are doing?
Last thought, if you're asking a question or seeking an opinion (is this mod really necessary?), it might be in your best interest to explain a little about what you're doing. This should help those that might respond do so with useful info?
The landing gear though, I don't think that's an option. Fix it first, or fix it later.....you will fix it. Those that tried without and never found the need are either really lucky, or I'd like to take some landing lessons from you! -Al
There are obviously a lot of these R70's built with all 3 power sources. If there's an issue here, it's figuring out what level/standard the plane being discussed at any given time is being built to. Guys building a plane with smaller glow power might not need tail mounted servos using HD hardware that a gas builder might want. Obviously, the gasser airframe is going to be stressed much differently than a lighter glow or even moderately powered electric. This fact needs to be picked up on early when going through this string! Some of us (yes me!) build this plane knowing full well if it's in the air, it's very likely being hammered on/abused. This could also be somebody's 3rd plane, and is not likely to benefit much from some of the mods found on one of my planes?
So, regarding the discussion above, maybe we can leave it like this? With the ability of this plane to be built to so many different standards, it should go without saying that not everyone will need all the mods mentioned. YOU need to be the judge, because as the planes' builder/pilot, YOU have ultimate authority. That said, thinking even the builder of a .60 powered ship might enjoy reading what the gas guys are doing?
Last thought, if you're asking a question or seeking an opinion (is this mod really necessary?), it might be in your best interest to explain a little about what you're doing. This should help those that might respond do so with useful info?
The landing gear though, I don't think that's an option. Fix it first, or fix it later.....you will fix it. Those that tried without and never found the need are either really lucky, or I'd like to take some landing lessons from you! -Al
06-15-2014, 12:29 PM
#7470
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Gordie - very nice mods! Specially the pull-pull on the rudder - think that's the first I've heard of it on the Rev 70. I used 4-40 rods to the elevator and rudder and had to cut out the last section of stock tube to allow for free movement. Can you post some close-up pics of your finished product?
06-18-2014, 08:30 AM
#7471
One thing to consider when we have so much information on modding a plane like the Rev 70 is just how it may impact you and your style of flying. An example might be the argument of pin hinges verses CA hinges. For some flyers it would be a waste of time to change out CA hinges. I prefer pin hinges on all my planes and only have one plane with CA hinges.
Does this mean the Rev 70 won't perform well with without all the mods? As other posters agree, not at all, however I DO think some mods are very worthwhile. It all comes down to what each person wants to do with the information they are given. A mod I am gradually making to all my gassers (except for larger gassers) is a single A123 battery with an IBEC running everything. I tried this and to me it is a perfect mod for my setups! Not required, but so worthwhile in my book.
Does this mean the Rev 70 won't perform well with without all the mods? As other posters agree, not at all, however I DO think some mods are very worthwhile. It all comes down to what each person wants to do with the information they are given. A mod I am gradually making to all my gassers (except for larger gassers) is a single A123 battery with an IBEC running everything. I tried this and to me it is a perfect mod for my setups! Not required, but so worthwhile in my book.
06-18-2014, 10:32 AM
#7472
My Feedback: (79)
my fire wall came off in flight Sunday! That the second time something came lose that almost ended it. I am almost ready to fly again! waiting on prop! I got in there and found my fuel tank was starting to split! I thought being oil soaked played in to the failure! Which it did. But I also noticed that there wasn't much glue or reinforcement holding it together. It isn't going anywhere anymore! Just my 2c..
06-18-2014, 10:50 AM
#7473
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To each their own. There's lots of great info in this thread. It's all personal preference of how we want to build.
I too use a single life battery with ibec from tech-aero on my two gas planes. For safety, I believe the ibec is mandatory. Someone recently posted about a throttle system failure and had to fly at full throttle for a half an hour until the plane ran out of fuel. Had the plane had a problem with a control surface that made the plane uncontrollable it could have ended with disastrous results. A lot can go wrong with a fast gas plane flying at wot for 30 minutes. With the ibec they could have quickly ended the flight on their terms.
Warbird, had you done any reinforcement to the firewall before it came loose on you? I think that is one mod that is necessary when using a gas motor on a glow plane. Or even using a larger glow engine on a "small" plane. We know that there isn't much glue anywhere on most of these newer ARFs.
I too use a single life battery with ibec from tech-aero on my two gas planes. For safety, I believe the ibec is mandatory. Someone recently posted about a throttle system failure and had to fly at full throttle for a half an hour until the plane ran out of fuel. Had the plane had a problem with a control surface that made the plane uncontrollable it could have ended with disastrous results. A lot can go wrong with a fast gas plane flying at wot for 30 minutes. With the ibec they could have quickly ended the flight on their terms.
Warbird, had you done any reinforcement to the firewall before it came loose on you? I think that is one mod that is necessary when using a gas motor on a glow plane. Or even using a larger glow engine on a "small" plane. We know that there isn't much glue anywhere on most of these newer ARFs.
06-18-2014, 11:12 AM
#7475
My Feedback: (79)
To each their own. There's lots of great info in this thread. It's all personal preference of how we want to build.
I too use a single life battery with ibec from tech-aero on my two gas planes. For safety, I believe the ibec is mandatory. Someone recently posted about a throttle system failure and had to fly at full throttle for a half an hour until the plane ran out of fuel. Had the plane had a problem with a control surface that made the plane uncontrollable it could have ended with disastrous results. A lot can go wrong with a fast gas plane flying at wot for 30 minutes. With the ibec they could have quickly ended the flight on their terms.
Warbird, had you done any reinforcement to the firewall before it came loose on you? I think that is one mod that is necessary when using a gas motor on a glow plane. Or even using a larger glow engine on a "small" plane. We know that there isn't much glue anywhere on most of these newer ARFs.
I too use a single life battery with ibec from tech-aero on my two gas planes. For safety, I believe the ibec is mandatory. Someone recently posted about a throttle system failure and had to fly at full throttle for a half an hour until the plane ran out of fuel. Had the plane had a problem with a control surface that made the plane uncontrollable it could have ended with disastrous results. A lot can go wrong with a fast gas plane flying at wot for 30 minutes. With the ibec they could have quickly ended the flight on their terms.
Warbird, had you done any reinforcement to the firewall before it came loose on you? I think that is one mod that is necessary when using a gas motor on a glow plane. Or even using a larger glow engine on a "small" plane. We know that there isn't much glue anywhere on most of these newer ARFs.
my fire wall came off in flight Sunday! That the second time something came lose that almost ended it. I am almost ready to fly again! waiting on prop! I got in there and found my fuel tank was starting to split! I thought being oil soaked played in to the failure! Which it did. But I also noticed that there wasn't much glue or reinforcement holding it together. It isn't going anywhere anymore! Just my 2c..
One thing to consider when we have so much information on modding a plane like the Rev 70 is just how it may impact you and your style of flying. An example might be the argument of pin hinges verses CA hinges. For some flyers it would be a waste of time to change out CA hinges. I prefer pin hinges on all my planes and only have one plane with CA hinges.
Does this mean the Rev 70 won't perform well with without all the mods? As other posters agree, not at all, however I DO think some mods are very worthwhile. It all comes down to what each person wants to do with the information they are given. A mod I am gradually making to all my gassers (except for larger gassers) is a single A123 battery with an IBEC running everything. I tried this and to me it is a perfect mod for my setups! Not required, but so worthwhile in my book.
Does this mean the Rev 70 won't perform well with without all the mods? As other posters agree, not at all, however I DO think some mods are very worthwhile. It all comes down to what each person wants to do with the information they are given. A mod I am gradually making to all my gassers (except for larger gassers) is a single A123 battery with an IBEC running everything. I tried this and to me it is a perfect mod for my setups! Not required, but so worthwhile in my book.