knockoffs

Here you go !!! DLE 20cc on Large Revolver

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BllA1VnwsSg

wjcalhoun

Mike
when the canopy came off, it ruined the trim of the airframe - it dove so strongly that full up elevator could not rescue

nh4clo4

My Feedback: (33)

My canopy came off the revolver, it hit the fin, It was very different flying, Iimmediately cut the throttle and made a circuit before Ilanded, Ithink it is the angled turtledeck that caused the pitching.

Ed

MTK

Geez, why stop there? Why not go with one of the 30 cc gassies? The SAP180 turning something like an 18x6 or 17x8 will do very nicely. But expect ballistic performance

Luchnia

My Feedback: (21)

Agreed.

Why not just fiberglass the fuse and then slap a 10 horser on it? Ought to be rank then and pretty much a flying engine.

Actually there is a thought, just build a flying engine! Put some control surfaces on a 150cc and see what happens [X(]

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

I see Tower Hobbies and Troy Built Models are both selling the DLE20 for $269, and the DLE30 for $319. Hobby King had the DLE30 for $209 - can this be the same engine? And I don't see the DLE20 on Hobby King. Are there any US dealers giving better prices than TH and TBM? And does anyone know if Hobby King is going to offer the DLE20 soon? And if there's any good reason why not to buy from them, considering you can get parts and support from these US vendors? Thanks.

Mike

Sbach342Guy

I've been ordering from HK for years and never had any issues. The only problem with them is inventory. You never know how long something will be on backorder. If you cancel an order you still pay for the shipping. I never had issues but I've heard that HK has had problems with customs. Part of the reason their stuff is so cheap is because they aren't claiming things for customs properly.

Don't forget that the DLE30 would be $260 w/free shipping if you are a Tower Hobbies super saver club member. The DLE20 would be $220 w/free shipping. Only costs $10 to join.

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

Don - Good point - I am part of the Super Saver's Club - yep, that's $50 off of $300.

da Rock

Now that is truly amazing. Even if you cancel before they ship?



"Properly" is right. One of my orders was for over $80 worth and they claimed it was $4 or $5 value. That's simply dishonest.

Sbach342Guy

Got the email notification from HK this morning that the DLE-30 was in stock. By the time I opened the message and went to their site they were already sold out. I've got plenty of time for them to get back in stock. My next plane is going to be the new 30cc AeroWorks Extra 300. They won't be available from AW until January.

Widget

My Feedback: (1)

Crashed my Rev a while ago... Was flying fine, havin' great fun, several great (slow) landings, and then a take off, got to good altitude, and the throttle went to idle, then a few seconds later the engined died, and while setting up for a comfortable dead-stick, about 5 ~8 seconds after the engine died, I lost all radio control.
It's a brand new Futaba 2.4 ghz 6EX FASST radio and had a couple of tanks through it with this new system. I'm shipping the Tx and Rx back to Futaba to see if they can find out anything wrong with the radio gear. I use heavy-duty switches, new Hobbico 6vlt battery, and everything checked out good and strong on the volts up to the Rx. I don't mind it so bad when I dumb-thumb it in, but radio failure on a brand-new expsensive system? Not sure if the new 1.20AX is ruined. Lots of small pieces from going straight in on hard ground... That sucks. So any thoughts on what it COULD have been? [&o] I already put new 2.4 Ghz Rx's in my other 2 planes, so I'm afraid to fly anything until I figure out if it is the Radio, Receiver or WHAT...

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

Widget - REALLY sorry to hear about your crash, especially as it sounds like it's totalled. That SUCKS. I fly FM\PCM, so can't help you on the radio aspect (have not had signal loss), but a friend of mind also lost his plane last year when he was using 2.4Ghz, and he attributed it to signal loss, which is why he switched back to FM \ PCM. Though it seems like most people fly 2.4 these days.

frankeldan

Wiget,

I just lost my Ultimate Profile w/ 52 fs this past weekend. I run 2.3 Spektrum with a JR9503 Transmitter.

I was having a great flight and all the controls just went haywire. It went into the ground within a second. The battery was fine. I think it was either a voltwatch I had on it monitoring the battery shorted.. Not sure but this never happened to me with 2.4.

So in short, I think it may be caused by a loose or shorted battery connection, reciever goes into failsafe and it's all over by that point.

jet22b

Widget;

So sorry to hear about your crash.[][] I also fly 2.4, DX-7 and the JR 9303 system. Two months ago I lost my P-40 Warhawk from radio failure.!! This was the last flight of the day for the warbird. Takeoff was sweet!! Climb on the down wind leg and the plane did a roll to the left into a left hand turn all the way to the ground. No control at all!! It took us close to one hour to find the crash site!!! The battery in the plane still had a good charge in it and the JR 9303 tx battery was at 10.7V The rx was a Spektrum AR7100 9CH running on a Hobbico 6V battery. When I return home to do a good look over the radio system, I found that both antenna on the small rx was missing. I don't know if that was from the crash or the fail off in flight, but when everything was plug in, the tx talk to the main rx, but, not the small one and no servo move. I had another small rx, plug it in the main rx, bind the system, and everything work fine. Send the system back in for a checkup and every thing was okay!! I alway throught that with two rx, if one go offline you still have control, but, I guess not!!! I have two Revolver on my DX7 and one on the JR 9303 radio. I check every three times before I fly and do a range check. Yes I come from the old school!!!
I know you will buy one more and do a re-build!!!
Flew my baby in the rain this past weekend and it was a blast!!! A large trash bag over the Tx kept it dry!!!

Sonny
aka
jet22b

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

Jett22 - you flew in the rain?? You wild man. I'm often thought of it be never did. Any issues? Was the plane OK? Any water get in? For the Tx you could use a Radiowarm (for winter use) - that would also keep it dry.

jet22b

It was not a heavy rain. The type of rain that keep your wiper on low, but, no water in the plane at all!!! It was sweet to do a low fast flyby and see water coming of the wings. The engine ran okay and did not load up on slow flight. After I land the plane, the sun came out with blue skies and the field was full!!! Try it and see what you think!! Just keep the Tx dry.

Sonny
aka
jet22b

Widget

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks, and yeah... Tiz a real BUMMER to spend all that money (and trust) in this new-fangled 2.4 system and have such a fatal crash. My old radios have NEVER had a fatal, though I carry a spare pair of shorts for those little momentary glitches I sometimes attribute to non-existant elevator stalls.. I think the 1.20AX and Pitts style pipe survived 100% intact (miracle of miracles!) and if the servos did or didn't, no big deal there... I'll keep ya'll posted on what Futaba finds; (or doesn't find.) Thanks for the $250 Therapy Session... [8D]

mike boxtall

The same thing happened to me with my little Toni. I sent the Rx back to horizon. They said it wouldn't range check properly so they sent me back a new one. Got a new Toni and it flew fine then the same thing happened. Everything froze. Hit the ground @ WOT. Sent the Rx back and same thing. On my third Toni now. Checked the batteries and everything was at 6.9 volts. All seemed fine until I checked them under load. Voltage dropped to 2.5 volts. The battery was shot. Don't necessarily trust volt meters. What it says and what the voltage is during use under load may be two different things.

Sbach342Guy

I used to fly my TREX 600GF with the Airtronics 2.4. It did lose binding but it was on the ground when it happened. I sent it back to Airtronics to have it fixed. Immediately after shipping it out I bought a DX7. No problems with the DX7 so far. I suspect batteries or shorts might be what is causing people problems.

Widget

My Feedback: (1)

Mike: Great Info! Upon reading what you just posted, I plugged in my trusty field RC volt/load-tester AND while under load, used my high-quality computerized battery tester, and without all the boring stats, all tested good. (6.18 vs 6.22). As of this morning, the Tx and RX are on their way back (under warranty) to Futaba to check it out. At this point, I only want to find a "cause" and not keep crashing until I find out the disappointing and expensive way. But, I gotta say, you have my respect for your tenacity in the hobby to keep right on flying those Toni's INSPITE of the crashes! By the time the sun went down yesterday, I was beginning to have thoughts of hanging it all up and taking up knitting... By my 4th flight yesterday, I was REALLY getting to know and like that large Rev! I had actually got my landing "floats and rolls" down to about 100'. Sweet! I guess like getting bucked off, just get right back on, eh? I'll be OK, because I am already watching Tower for that good deal (again) that I got on that plane which will forever be known as Rev #1... I actually have the VERY last Ultra Stick 60 ARF that Horizon Hobby had in stock. (I actually got an "out-of-stock" notice inadvertently sent to me when it shipped and Horizon told me that was the very last one!), so I have a home for the 1.20AX build-project this winter... Also, I am test-flying the GP Reactor with my 91FX in the nose, in, oh, about 1 hr from now. I have my old radio system in it, so no worries mate... stay tuned.... (-:

airraptor

My Feedback: (66)

I had sthree planes go in while using the JR stuff. one common thing has been the charge jack switches (JR, hobbico, and other types)

I will not trust these 15-25 dollar switches anymore. most planes will have over 350 dollars in them and to go cheap on a 15 dollar switch doesnt make sense anymore. I have switched to the MP switch that has the led's on it for 20 bucks on the smaller planes and my 46 size planes and up I use the fromeco wolverine. it is a dual input dual out put fail safe switch. its only 60 dollars too. since the switch I have not had any fades or anything on the spektrum recievers.
Here is some info from the site:
The New Fromeco Wolverine Switch will change the way you approach your aircraft setup.
The Wolverine is: 2 solid-state 'fail-safe' style Switches, 2 Charge Jacks, and advanced battery redundancy (sharing) circuitry... all incorporated into one convenient package.

Measuring just 63mm or 2.5" from mounting hole to mounting hole, the Wolverine is only three-fourths the length of two JR-style mechanical switches placed end-to-end. At .6oz or 17grams it is also considerably lighter as well.

The Wolverine has 2 battery inputs, and can be used with any battery type with a voltage up to 10VDC. Each Battery input feeds its own "FailSafe" type switch circuit, the same kind used for Fromeco's Badger Switch. Each Switch circuit is rated at 15amps, and is completely independent of the other. Power then flows to Fromeco's power sharing circuits, which are also completely redundant. You can custom-configure your Wolverine with up to 3 outputs.

The Wolverine was developed to alleviate the problem of unbalanced regulators creating an unequal draw upon the batteriesâ€*. Fromeco felt that a single-circuit-board-twin-switch solution with built-in sharing is an elegant solution... rather than having to plug in more stuff between the battery and regulator.Wolverine can be used with any battery that is lower than 10 volts when fully charged. NiCad and NiMH, as well as Li-ion and Li-Poly, work well with the Wolverine Switch system.

The Wolverine will let you use different sized batteries in the same system, e.g., a 35% plane could be outfitted with a 4800mA-h and a 2400mA-h powering the receiver if needed, and the batteries would work together in unison.

It is true that the Wolverine is larger than a single Standard JR™ Heavy duty switch, yet it is smaller and lighter (17g) than the 2 HD switches that it replaces. Also, as a single unit, installation is cleaner and easier.





http://www.fromeco.org/categories/switches/wolverine

Eganwp

My Feedback: (1)

We run Fromeco Wolverine dual failsafe battshare switches on our giant scale planes for dual redundant a123 RX setups. Works amazing. Very high quality and completely trouble/worry free due to failsafeing ON.

But, its extreme overkill on the small planes up to 30% size. If you want a quality switch use the Fromeco Failsafe Badger switch for these small planes. Much more appropriate, smaller installation size (no big circuit board room need inside fuse), lighter, same quality, and a lot cheaper than the Wolverines.

Widget

My Feedback: (1)

I wasn't even aware of a Fromeco Failsafe Wolverine or Badger switch. Thank you! I like the warning lights idea... I really don't think it was my switch, as the "symptoms" were a dying TX or Rx as the case might turn out to be. I have been using EMS (Electronic Model Systems) heavy-duty switches (with charge jack) that seem to be reliable for lots of years, BUT, true: All that money invested and with a switch being one of the weakest links, WHY NOT THE BEST we can afford?
(And the crowd goes wild with amen and amen!!!) [8D]
BTW, I just test flew my Reactor 58" with the OS 91FX in the nose and though she is a VERY light plane (7lbs with fuel), the power is about equal to my OS 1.20AX in the large Rev. She is definately NOT over-powered, and I am seeing a trend here with GP's power recomendations. If I were GP, I too would reccomend smaller power plants due to less air-frame stress and failures. But, talk about a SWEET flying fun little plane! CG on the Reactor is factory spec and I was so confident by my second flight, I basically flat-stalled it from about 100' feet up, landing at a jogging pace, and she was rock-solid all the way down to compressing the landing gear a wee bit too much. If I wreck this one, betcha a gallon of nitro exhaust fumes that it will be my very own OOPS![X(] Welp... Just another reason to build anudder one.... But still, I woke up missing my large Rev pretty bad. I'd nominate that bird for the top 3 best flyers I have ever owned, hands down...

Slow and Steady

I lost a Pulse XT about 2 - 3 years ago while using Spectrum DX7 with a fresh receiver battery. During the first flight, the plane made approximately 5 circuits around the field and then lost signal. It flew straight into a highway embankment. Changed to Futaba 2.4 6 channel that day and it has worked fine on several planes. I feel Futaba is the best system with its channel hoping duel antena redundancy. Have since moved on to the Futaba 7 channel and now use the 12 FGA. Spectrum can loose bind from an intermittent receiver battery voltage drop, or turning off the transmitter before the receiver. I also heard of someone loosing bind after making program changes to the Spectrum transmitter. Recently I heard that the new Hitec system is also having issues. No matter the system, antena placement is important and I locate each away from any possible interference. Love the Futaba; wouldn't have bought the 12 channel if I were not so impressed with the 6 and 7 channel rock solid bind.

airraptor

My Feedback: (66)

slow and steady lets not make this thread into a futaba against JR thing ok. All systems have had problems from way back in the day till now and beyond.