superduke1

Hi Mach2 I do like your tail wheel setup it looks a lot better than the Sulliavn installation that I have. If you change out the aluminium spinner for the great planes plastic spinner it will remove 30g from the nose but the aluminium spinner dose look better. Is that a 10 or 12 oz tank that you have installed.

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

Pretty sure its 12. It doesn't really even need that much fuel. I normally only fly for 5-6 minutes.

As for the spinner, I like the aluminum too much to change it. :-)

THEJADEGROUP

The Rev 70 I just purchased has pre-hinged ailerons. Based on what I have read in this tread, is it recommended to replace the CA hinges with Robart or Dubro pinned hinges? I am installing a Saito 100 engine and neither looking for high speed or dramatic 3D stuff just sport flying. I plan on doing many of the other recommended mods.
Thanks.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Thought I would try the OEM hinges again even though I have a terrible track record with them. The inside aileron hinge on the plane I just built didn't get 5 flights before it failed. Not pulled, failed. As in separated where it flexes.

They're easy to replace. Just cut them along the hinge line to separate the aileron from the wing (se razor blade works great) . Then run a #11 X-acto along both sides of the existing hinge. That should allow them to pull right out easily, and leaves a perfectly positioned slot for the pin type Dubro hinges.

THEJADEGROUP

ahicks:
I really appreciate your input. Have done the same thing with other ARFs and will do it with this one.
Dick

dwreel

Trying to fit my DLE 20 into a new Revolver 70. The carb hits the horizontal sections on the Great Plains motor mount ( 120-180 and the 60-120 ) and leaves the front of the thrust washer too far forward. Only way I can see to move the engine back far enough is to cut the motor mount. Is there a better way or a different motor mount ??

Appreciate any and all suggestions .
dick.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

I had that same mount, and trimmed it to fit, for whatever that's worth. Not sure if there's another that might work easier. So far, it's been worth the trouble. This mount has been through some pretty serious "encounters" in 2 different planes with no apparent damage.

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

Yep, you just need to cut the middle out of the mounts. You need to cut the tabs off the area where it over laps so that each side remains the same length from the firewall. I glued the tabs in so I don't lose them and it is easier to mount to the firewall. I'll take a quick pic for you shortly. As Al said, the mounts are VERY strong. I've put a couple in the dirt nose first a couple times and they held up, no problem. Some people question the strength of the polymer mounts, but there is no question in my mind. They are tough as nails. Probably tougher than some aluminum mounts.

Also, I'm finally heading out in a few minutes to maiden lucky number 3! I'll let y'all know how it goes soon.

dwreel

Thank you. I just viewed All the pics in this thread and I saw more than a few pics where the mount had been trimmed. So, as per your post, I'll be trimming the mount. Problem solved. So what is next? :-)

dick

dwreel

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

Well I had a successful maiden today (it's still in one piece). Not without a couple issues though. My CG is off. I must have been measuring differently than I did on the other planes. At 6-1/8" from the leading edge at the fuse she was very tail heavy. I could swear that my last one was at 6-1/4" and she flew really well. Today, and up or down elevator was very touchy and she was "wollowy" at slow speeds. Both of my other planes flew like they were on rails. I plan on moving the battery forward and giving it a shot again tomorrow.

Also, I had too much expo on my throttle (didn't seem like enough on the ground, so I added some), and I also think she is lean on the top. I hadn't touched the engine since it was in the last plane, so I'm going to put it back to factory settings, do some ground tuning and then fly her and adjust from there.

I also took some pre-flight pictures. I must say, she does look pretty darn cool in the air with the decals I put on. The bottom looks *****in'!

Jeremy

IMG_4258 by Jeremy-l, on Flickr
IMG_4234 by Jeremy-l, on Flickr
IMG_4248 by Jeremy-l, on Flickr
IMG_4255 by Jeremy-l, on Flickr
IMG_4269 by Jeremy-l, on Flickr
IMG_4270 by Jeremy-l, on Flickr

dwreel

Trials and tribulations. The 120-180 mounting holes/slots wouldn't line up with the blind nuts on the firewall (Revolver 70 ). So I worked on the 60-120 mount. Took a lot of Dremel work, but it is done and will work OK. Now I need to get some small C-clamps to hold the DLE to the motor mount so I can drill the holes in the beams.

Thanks for your help, guys.
Dick.

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

I removed the two blind nuts on the right side and moved them out to where they need to be for the width of the DLE.

dwreel

Did that still keep the prop shaft lined up with the cowl ?

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

That's right side looking at the firewall, or right side sitting in the plane (assuming it was big enough)?


I ask because I generally have to move them too, but to keep the spinner centered, will have to move the left blind nuts (or maybe just the top left nut?). Running on memory, sorry.

dwreel

Thanks for the clarification. I'll remount the cut down 120 - 180 mount and check the clearance. Might go back to it if it is better. I really butchered the 60-120 mount.

redtail

My Feedback: (15)

Mach 2, here is a shot of my redesign color scheme you wanted to see. The cowl remains basically red with a black/white checkerboard strip separating the red and white sides and the bottom of the cowl is black which bleeds into the black/white checkerboard bottom.

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

I like that. I'd opt for stripes along the side of the fuse over the checkers, but if you like it, that's all that matters. Overall, way better than the original scheme. I really like the wings and the checkers on the tail.

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

I moved the blind nuts on the right side of the plane. So the left side as you're looking at it from the front. There isn't enough room to move the other side. The mount ends up pretty much up against the far left side (plane's left) when you try and keep the engine centered.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Agreed, the LH side of the motor mount ends up nearly flush with the outside LH side of the firewall box.

yowser

Almost finished with my build. Did angle aluminum for lg mod, aft servos, Sullivan tail wheel, dle 20 w bowman ring and pin hinges in the elevator and rudder. Will likely do ailerons when they begin to fail. It has taken me a couple months to read through this thread but today I finally finished. Hope to maiden within the month.

Stone17

Make sure you glue the Aileron servo box. I have it come loose after 5 flights.

yowser

Yes stone. As I have gone along I drop left over epoxy in there Hopefully it holds.

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

So...I've been annoyingly busy lately and haven't been able to get to the flying field to do a second flight to see how my new CG is (battery moved from the former behind the wing tube to the top of the motor box). However, yesterday around 5pm I had some time and a little daylight available so I charged my battery and threw everything (I thought I had everything) in my truck and headed to the field. I slapped the wings on and put fuel in her and then realized I had forgotten the canopy! Since I had put the carb back to factory suggested settings I figured I'd just do some ground tuning and call it a day. The DLE 20 was running well. It revved up nicely with no hesitation and tached at 8460rpm on the top end with a Xoar 17x6. I leaned out out 1/8th of a turn and lost about 100 rpm. So I richened it 1/4 turn from there which got me about 100rpm less than max again, so it seemed like the factory setting was giving me peak rpm. In my experience with gas engines, they seem to be more rich in the air than on the ground. So I settled on running the H needle on 1/16 richer than the peak rpm setting (as opposed to bringing the rpm 200 down on the rich side) to do a flight test.

Even though I didn't have the canopy, I decided to fly anyway because it would be at least two more days before I would be able to get out again. I figured that the only thing the canopy does is keep the wind out.

I only did one 6:30 minute flight, but she flew great! She flew just as I remembered my previous two revolvers did. Actually a little better since this is the lightest of the three. Slow flight characteristics were great. She floated around like a glider. And again, the amsoil decals on the top and bottom look awesome in the air!

To my surprise the motor ran near perfect in the air (good throttle response and no rich burble). Now I know I'm used to a lot more power from flying my Edge 540 with the RCGF 26BM, but it did seem like I could be getting a little more power from the DLE 20. Next time out I'm going to try 1/16th turn leaner on the top end and see how it goes.

On the landing she floated in nice and slow to a buttery smooth touchdown. All in all, it was a good quick outing. I didn't measure the cg afterward, but right now I'd call it close to perfect, but I'll update after some more flights with some "aggressive" aerobatics and let y'all know where my cg is at.

Cheers everyone!
Jeremy

JoeMamma

Ahhhhhh. Nice to hear from another satisfied Revolver owner !

Joe M.