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Old 01-22-2015, 04:54 AM
  #7826  
el_xero
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The 645 mg's are plenty! I decided I wanted something faster and digital. Now I'm thinking perhaps I should have stuck with them ha.

Last edited by el_xero; 01-22-2015 at 05:04 AM.
Old 01-22-2015, 05:01 AM
  #7827  
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I'll be flying Hitec HS5625 MG's on mine (soon very soon) and from what i've seen, they are fast.. maybe even too fast for a non 3D application like this. Oh well.
Old 01-25-2015, 07:39 PM
  #7828  
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My bird is about 99% done now! yay, hoping to run the engine in tomorrow!
Old 01-25-2015, 11:12 PM
  #7829  
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Cool man! Good luck to you.

I ordered a Bowman ring for my DLE 20a couple days ago. Frank ships fast! I still need a gasket before I can do th install though. I have really enjoyed the engine, but the compression has really dropped off fast. The motor isn't very old. It's only got about a gallon or so through it. With the weak compression it's getting hard to start (I always hand start). I'm sure this will fix the problem and give a little more power...
Old 01-26-2015, 06:13 AM
  #7830  
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I didn't realize he was still doing those, last I read he was getting tired or it or a bit run down from all the orders and not having free time.
I wanted to order one and install it right off the bat on my engine, but I held back when I read that.

I guess I'll go looking to see if I can get one now.

I'm hoping to get my dle started today, I saw some white stuff growing through the edges of my cdi, (possible corrosion or something)
After seeing this I'm hoping that there aren't any potatoes growing in my carb from being in its box all of the two to three years I've had the thing.

Laterally balanced last night, needed to add in excess of 84g or weight to the left wing tip .

Going to shoot for a 6'' CG today and see If I can make that.

Mach2 I remember you being worried about mine being tail heavy with those servos in the back. Maybe it's cuz this is a rebuild but this puppies nose heavy big time!

I've moved my LiFe pack as far back as I could (granted these things are light) and I'm still nose heavy, looks like I may have to add lead near the servos to get her right.

I have to say I don't remember the plane being this heavy though wow, I think I may have passed your 11lb mark man.
Sadly I don't have a scale that goes past 5lb ha.

When You install that ring I wouldn't mind seeing a step by step, if you've got the time for it. I've never disassembled and engine much less rotated the carb on my dle so I'm sure that would help.

Right, time to get back to it!
It's my day off I'll be doing nothing but revolving today!
Old 01-26-2015, 06:29 AM
  #7831  
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My latest Revolver (as yet still all original, knocking on wood) required me to install the rudder servo, as well as the 2 elevator servos in the rear.

Still well under 10lbs, but for whatever reason (heavy nose? light tail?) ended up very nose heavy off the boards. No fun to fly like that at all (unpredictable stall, etc.) when you're used to what they CAN do, it was an easy decision to remove the pull-pull and move it to the rear. Now, after a dozen or so flights tweaking control throws and amounts of expo, we've found the groove.... a blast to fly again.

Point being, lead, or ANY ballast, meant as a very last resort.
Old 01-26-2015, 11:18 AM
  #7832  
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Hmmm
How far back did you move your pull pull setup ahicks?
Trust me I don't want to add any more lead, but I've already setup and want some air in my wings so I'll have a go at it as is.
Heavy wings is already bugging me but can't be helped. I really should have been patient with the wings and ordered carbon fiber strips in stead of using a massive 1/2 x 1/2" dowel sliced up uuuhh
Old 01-26-2015, 11:29 AM
  #7833  
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ahicks - you moved your rudder servo back? Haven't heard of that before on the Rev 70. Where \ how did you mount it? Can you supply pics? I haven't yet had to move my elevator servo(s) back, but have moved the battery back by installing it aft of the servo platform.

mach2 - did you say you have only one gallon through your DLE20 and you're already noticing the compression falling off? If that's the case I would return the entire engine to Tower Hobbies (or whoever you got it from). I also replaced my ring with a Frank Bowman, but that was after 2 years.
Old 01-26-2015, 11:30 AM
  #7834  
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My rudder servo is right back with the elevator servos. No more pull pull. It's hooked direct, like the elevator servos.
Old 01-26-2015, 11:38 AM
  #7835  
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Wings - besides needing a right wing for Rev 70 I also need a left wing for a 59" Revolver.

Thanks.

Mike D
Old 01-26-2015, 02:32 PM
  #7836  
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ahicks : I think i understand what you did with the rudder servo, I've seen Katana's with setups like that with two servos on one side of the tail and one on the other. Is that what you've got going on?
I think I'm nose heavy because of that cowl and the rebuild in general. The cowl is much heavier than stock since it's got a few more layers of fiberglass and body filler
all over it not to mention a ton of paint! I should be ok with my setup though I don't wanna mess with it.

I'm right with you on the wings microdon2 lol, I think I'm going to have to save up for a new set from tower at this rate lol.

I got my engine started today for the first time ever!
I'm buzzzzzzingggg

Didn't have to deviate much from factory settings at all.

At first I couldn't get any fuel to the carb, flip flip flip nothing.
I put an electric starter on it and only then did I see fuel flow. After that I just decided rather than making my arms sore from trying to flip start I'd just continue with the starter.

choke on, ignition on, throttle full bore hit it with the starter and pop pop.
Choke off throttle half hit it with the starter and away it goes!

I played with it till I got it going at about 1770-1800 rpm on low and about 8120-8200rpm on high. My mini tach is weird I've got to hold it at just the right angle and right distance to get the thing to register correct rpm's.
When I first started it up I was reading 14000+ rpm"s??? Crazy.

I'm using the hobby king copy (blue) of the silencer from TBM they did say that you would loose a few hundred
rpm with that thing so I guess I'm about right. I enriched the high speed a bit I believe that recommended.

I"ll see if I can post a link to a video, maybe someone can chime in and let me know if I've got it sounding right. But for now dinner time!

After seeing how much power this thing has I'm not as worried about The overall weight as before, I think It will fly okay.

Plane is no where near as dirty as my glow fellows but I'll still need a bit of clean up at 30-1 ratio I suppose. Little bit of black splattered all over the place.
Anyway I'm off

EDIT: errruuummm I feel a little bit foolish.... I forgot something which happened while trying to get fuel up to my carb (flip flip flip). When I first got the engine popping, I realized something rather peculiar... *scratches head* I was at full revs on low stick and engine started to die on full throttle.... hahahahaha Yeah silly meeeeeee! Throttle was reversed... no wonder I got zero fuel going into my carb (flip flip flip nothing) I goofed yep lol haha oh well live and learn!

Last edited by el_xero; 01-26-2015 at 03:05 PM.
Old 01-26-2015, 04:18 PM
  #7837  
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Okay, soooo uuuum, how??? do I remove this spark plug cap from the spark plug?
Because um it seems like I need gorilla force to get that thing out and I'm afraid I'd break something trying to remove it.
Anyone?
Old 01-26-2015, 04:50 PM
  #7838  
ahicks
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I pry them off with a screwdriver when they are new like that...

Yup, 2 on 1 side, one on the other.

Last edited by ahicks; 01-26-2015 at 06:50 PM.
Old 01-26-2015, 06:02 PM
  #7839  
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Cool, I might try that when I build my GP extra 300S, although I do like the pull pull lol

ok so I've got the videos let me know what y'all think

Idle rpm

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rwe-xN3tlUE WOT

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Psfj_TIdM7k And general longer run

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lGRegHIMe3g If anyone is wondering what that alarm sound was, that's my locator buzzer. It's on
my throttle channel and will wail if there is no activity on that channel for extended periods, in this case I was filming and...

ya so that's it.
Old 01-26-2015, 08:24 PM
  #7840  
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el_xero - I always start my DLE20 using the starter. My DLE 30 and 35 are easy to flip-start by hand, but the 20, for some reason, isn't. (least not for me). On the other hand, once you do start it they start back up pretty easily, so you might be able to flip-start it the 2nd and 3rd times (I think I'll try that next time out).

btw - JUST got my DLE 20 running, after a bad crash about 4 weeks ago. My Rev70 nosed in at 2/3 throttle. Plane pretty much exploded on impact with the concrete runway, engine broke, even the throttle servo was in pieces! Of the plane I could only salvage the tail feathers. Of the engine I replaced the crank case, crank shaft, bearings, and EI (though the EI may be fixable - have to at least replace the boot. The back of the EI box came off, too - but the components look ok, will see). Some fins on the head are gone, but I'm thinking I still have enough to dissipate heat. Rebuilt the carb, and had to reset the float needle lever height. Seems like I'm close, though still chasing the low idle a bit (am thinking this could this be the replacement EI - it was not ordered for the DLE 20). Hoping to fly this plane on Saturday.

Last edited by microdon2; 01-26-2015 at 08:28 PM.
Old 01-27-2015, 12:54 AM
  #7841  
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El-xero, I took some video of how to replace the piston ring tonight. Not sure if it'll be on YouTube tonight or not. It takes a long time for my computer to upload videos. It's a really easy job.

As for how your engine sounds...looks pretty good. The top end sounds good, but you won't really know until you fly it. It all changes in the air. It sounded like your low needle could be adjusted some. I can't say for sure because it wasn't idled down all the way, but I heard some hesitation when you ran it up. Maybe try leaning it out 1/8 turn (clockwise). If it gets worse or dies, go counter clockwise the 1/8th plus another 1/8th. It shouldn't take much because it sounds pretty close...

Jeremy
Old 01-27-2015, 08:54 AM
  #7842  
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[QUOTE=microdon2;11970097]el_xero - I always start my DLE20 using the starter. My DLE 30 and 35 are easy to flip-start by hand, but the 20, for some reason, isn't. (least not for me). On the other hand, once you do start it they start back up pretty easily, so you might be able to flip-start it the 2nd and 3rd times (I think I'll try that next time out).

btw - JUST got my DLE 20 running, after a bad crash about 4 weeks ago. My Rev70 nosed in at 2/3 throttle. Plane pretty much exploded on impact with the concrete runway, engine broke, even the throttle servo was in pieces! Of the plane I could only salvage the tail feathers. Of the engine I replaced the crank case, crank shaft, bearings, and EI (though the EI may be fixable - have to at least replace the boot. The back of the EI box came off, too - but the components look ok, will see). Some fins on the head are gone, but I'm thinking I still have enough to dissipate heat. Rebuilt the carb, and had to reset the float needle lever height. Seems like I'm close, though still chasing the low idle a bit (am thinking this could this be the replacement EI - it was not ordered for the DLE 20). Hoping to fly this plane on Saturday.[/QUOTE

WOW! Man that sounds like you pretty much replaced almost the whole engine.
Sorry to hear that. How in the world did you manage to turn the plane into a shovel like that? 2/3 throttle is quite a bit of pep! What went wrong?
Id better get my bottom on flight sim more! yikes!
Old 01-27-2015, 09:02 AM
  #7843  
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Originally Posted by mach2
El-xero, I took some video of how to replace the piston ring tonight. Not sure if it'll be on YouTube tonight or not. It takes a long time for my computer to upload videos. It's a really easy job.

As for how your engine sounds...looks pretty good. The top end sounds good, but you won't really know until you fly it. It all changes in the air. It sounded like your low needle could be adjusted some. I can't say for sure because it wasn't idled down all the way, but I heard some hesitation when you ran it up. Maybe try leaning it out 1/8 turn (clockwise). If it gets worse or dies, go counter clockwise the 1/8th plus another 1/8th. It shouldn't take much because it sounds pretty close...

Jeremy
Hi Jeremy, Thanks I think it sounds like it's getting there alright, You may be right about the low speed needle, That video was taken before I made my final adjustments. I've since tinkered with the low and high speed
for a smoother transition but couldn't really finish checking last night as I ran out of fuel I must have used up about 30 cranks of fuel working on the engine, and it was already getting dark.
It transitions better now but it will be a work in progress off course.

Odd about the idle speed though, I thought the recommended idle speed was supposed to be between 1700-1800 RPM? I'm at about 1770 to 1800 there about according to my mini tach but I'll double check again when I get some time to tinker with it in about three days or so. I've been meaning to get an onboard mini tach but had to spend the cash else where, on a super tight budget these days. There are a few things to get,
(those lovely xoar and redwingRC wood props makes that list) but I've got to wait till I have the cash in my hands, not touching the credit card!

p.s. yes please post that video when ever you get a chance I'd love to have a look at it!

Last edited by el_xero; 01-27-2015 at 09:18 AM.
Old 01-27-2015, 09:17 AM
  #7844  
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What do you mean it's not 6.6v compatible!??

So this morning I decided to run my engine a bit and double check settings. I fired everything up and picked up this burning smell.
I got worried and shut every thing off and right away the words of one of my fellow modelers was ringing in my head.
Be sure to double check those diodes for excess heat, remember heat and gasoline fumes aren't very good bed fellows!

I'm running three 1N5822 schottky diodes in series from my ignition micro switch to the CDI these buggers seem to have a volt drop of only 0.5v and I remember when I tried smaller diodes they got very hot on just a single cell 3.3v LiFe so I went with the fatter ones. These apparently are good for up to 125 degrees centigrade.

So anyway I reached down to feel them, they were cool but that burning smell was still there .I wen't disassembling and got to my servo actuated micro switch!


Hmmmm HXT 900 hobby king micro servo. I checked specs on these and hitech hs 55's and they seem to be able to handle 6v fine, so either I had a bad one or I needed a diode on that too! haha.
Anyway It melted the casing to the bottom of the servo. I took it off and jimmied a new servo/micro switch do-hicky around a standard size servo and was done with it!

That works beautifully and I don't need diodes yay! off course I just increased my weight nay but at least the weight is aft of the cg mark yay!

haha.

Last edited by el_xero; 01-27-2015 at 10:05 AM.
Old 01-27-2015, 02:53 PM
  #7845  
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Here it is. Not sure if it's helpful. I hope there's no misinformation or bad advice in it...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=raJwOxV3m5o

Jeremy
Old 01-27-2015, 06:13 PM
  #7846  
el_xero
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Originally Posted by mach2
Here it is. Not sure if it's helpful. I hope there's no misinformation or bad advice in it...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=raJwOxV3m5o

Jeremy

nice thanks!

Just realized I could put that new servo I added into the back with the other two! easy way to help with balancing heh!


EDIT er the video is private can't view it.
Old 01-27-2015, 11:50 PM
  #7847  
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oops, sorry. It's public now.
Old 01-29-2015, 10:09 PM
  #7848  
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el_xero - I lost an aileron servo and she nosed in. To a concrete runway. NOT a pretty sight.

So - more troubleshooting - tonight I swapped DLE 20 heads, and the other engine ran fine with the damaged, suspect head. So it seems it's not bent \ warped after all. I left the undamaged head on my rebuilt engine, inspected the carb (including looking under the needle for particles), cleaned some small stuff out of the screen, carb back together. I also replaced the spark plug cap in the damaged EI, the one that was in the crash. Had to wrap the case with tape to hold it together, as the back popped off (though the insides look fine). Then spliced one of the leads and.... SPARK! Also, now, with the new engine, I'm getting more of a "free" response when I flip the prop - though it does still freeze a bit at the end. The prop doesn't "pop" backwards, like the other DLE20 does. What else could cause this? Could the bearings be in slightly off? Maybe the crankpin is touching the backplate?

I'm going to test it tomorrow and see how it idles.

Last edited by microdon2; 01-29-2015 at 10:36 PM.
Old 01-30-2015, 01:22 PM
  #7849  
el_xero
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sounds like you've got your hands quite full there microdon2, I'm hoping I never have to go through any of that. Which brings me to a question I've been meaning to ask.
these heavy duty control arms from dubro, has anyone had any issues with these or the other similar one?

When I saw all the parts for these motors on tower I felt relieved but I hadn't realized just how much work it could be putting one back together and getting every thing working right.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEMF9&P=7

Come to think of it microdon2 now that you've mentioned loosing an aileron servo do you think it could be that (if you had these installed that one of them twisted on you and not that the servo packed up?)

I've got them on my aileron and elevator and I can't seem to get it out of my head that they would twist left or right under stress I've even tightened a nut up onto them to make them tighter on the rod.
I don't trust these so much. I won't be flying hard so they shouldn't be a problem just yet but I'm thinking that these would be a much safer way to go

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCVZP&P=ML

what do you guys think?
Old 01-30-2015, 04:42 PM
  #7850  
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I used heavy duty dubro stuff, but it was a different style. I think the type you are talking about are better than what I'm using. Not that what I'm using is not good, but you have to kinda crush the surface to make sure the are tight enough...


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