PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Can't you add some hardwood or ply standoffs like I did? Even if you had to add some extension to the front of the fuse, it would be better than adding as much weight as you might need. Even then, you'll probably have to add some.

Looks like you left plenty of bolt sticking through so you can build a weight-holder out at the motor. The further forward you add the weight, the less weight you'll need.

Looking good! You must be pretty excited![sm=thumbs_up.gif]

~ Jim ~ [sm=49_49.gif]

Kostas1

I am very excited Jim !!!

About the stand offs you mentioned....i could have used some,

BUT the engine prop hub would then protrude from the cowl..

It will be ugly as ****....[:-]

Sorry for not remembering,
but what was your setup ?

Engine ?
Needed weight on the nose and how much ?

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Engine was a Syssa 30CC gas engine (41 ounces/1148 grams), had to add standoffs that were 7/8" (20-21 mm) to reach the 7-1/8" they recommended. Could have actually gone further forward and still been able to mount the cowl without a gap, but with some white Monokote, balsa, and lite ply I could have gone further. It didn't need it, I was right on for my CG with no weight, my dry weight was 14 pounds and an ounce or so. Well, actually, MY dry weight is about 17-18 times that, but that was the GSS's dry weight. It should be noted that I added large aluminum landing gear in front of the bulkhead where the wing dowels fit. This plane definitely requires some nose weight, and smaller engines and motors could be mounted a ways forward from the standard location for balance. As it is not a scale plane, it harms nothing to do so.

~ Jim ~ [sm=49_49.gif]

Kostas1

Installing the aileron linkages...

I used Dubro Large Scale T-style horns,
but changed the included SHCS's with 3mm SHCS's and used 3mm safety lock nuts,

for what else, safety....

Working slowly though ![:-]

flygilmore

How are you keeping the threaded rod from spinning loose inside the clevises?....I didn't see anything in your pics that showed this. Even though you are using the Dubro plastic clevis the rod can still spin. I normally use a threaded ball link on the servo side (JB welded to all thread 4-40) and then the Dubro heavy plastic clevis on the other (control horn) side. I also sleeve the whole thing with a carbon tube from Central Hobbies.

Kostas1

I use Dubro 4-40 full threaded rods...

I may use some blue locktite on the threads of the rod,
but
if the clevis is installed on the horn,
there is no way it can loose herself off...

Kostas1

OK,
i made a mistake yesterday,
and installed one of the aileron horns wrong !

I was working on it till 1.45'am sooooo..........[:-][]

The wing is ready !!

I also installed the wheel pants,
on which the technique used by GP,
using small blind nuts on the inside of the pant for security WORKS PERFECTLY!

I suggest that everyone SHOULD stick with the manual and he won't have any trouble!

So,

wing is ready ,
engine mounted,

next will be the reinforcing with epoxy+alcohol,
of the inside of the firewall area.....we don't want the torque of the Saito 150s to rip everything off !

Take care....

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Unless you've taken them on and off quite a number of times, those plastic locking clevises usually don't ever move, they're usually tight as all heck, especially on the 4-40 rods. Blue locktite isn't really appropriate for that job. Apply a drop or two of thin CA if you feel it might move. That should do the job nicely. CA works great on anything nylon.

Looks like a good setup to me, but a drop or two of CA for that extra bit of insurance couldn't hurt. Now, on a metal clevis linkage steup, you always want to avoid two threaded ends...that's just asking for trouble. I've seen some BIG problems at the field from some of those.

~ Jim ~ [sm=49_49.gif]

Charlie P.

It the shaft can if rotate (both ends threaded) it can back itself off one end or the other through vibration. I have had this happen even with jamb-nuts up against the clevii. The Ball-socket type seem better able to dissipate vibration and I've never known one of those to loosen . . . but I still take measures against. I now solder one end so it can't turn on any control surface connector.

Kostas1

SOME MORE

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

LOL...Or...You could just use that to fuelproof the interior....[X(]

Frankly, I'm appalled that you made a mistake, that never happens in here, and none of us ever stay up working so late that we mess up...okay, maybe one or two of us....

~ Jim ~ [sm=49_49.gif]

Kostas1

The one end is mounted on a Dubro 4-40 Safety Lock Kwik-Link ,
made from plastic.....

But ofcourse x2 drops of CA+ won't be that much of a problem !!!![8D]

Kostas1

Hahaaa Jim,

i like so much your responses!!!

Honestly ,

i am thrilled.....,

not only because of the SAITO 150s but because i've had the Giant SS for 5y. now ...

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

5 Years!

That's like having a ghost in your closet.....you don't have to look, but you know it's in there.....making your heart beat a little faster every time you walk past it....[X(]

LOL

~ Jim ~ [sm=49_49.gif]

Kostas1

[] yeahh x5y.....

BUT now time has come [>:]

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

You aged it, like a fine wine......

Let's see how sweet she turned out to be.....

~ Jim ~ [sm=49_49.gif]

Kostas1

The transmitter i am going to use !

My AWESOME Futaba 10C.......

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Niiiice.

[sm=thumbs_up.gif]

~ Jim ~ [sm=49_49.gif]

Kostas1

ok guys,

i want some help now...

I want to decide where is the best place to mount my batteries!

Because i'm pretty sure i need some nose weight,

maybe it's better to install my batteries in the engine mount (?)

What do you think about vibration ?
And what is the best way to mount the battery packs ?
To secure them etc ?

I will use x2 separate NiMh 4.8V 1.650Mah square packs..
on x2 different GreatPlanes switches..

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Hi Kostas,

Don't take that chance. Better lead than dead. That's a very bad spot for vibration. I'd avoid having them in the engine compartment if at all possible.

Well, it's maiden day for my GSS. There will be video and photos!

Cross your fingers!

~ Jim ~ [sm=49_49.gif]

Kostas1

JIM,

good luck with the maiden!
Keep us posted ,

especially with a video....where else do you think i should mount the bat.packs ?

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Sorry to disappoint. The Syssa 30CC would not start for us today. I'll be looking at the engine tomorrow to see if I can identify what's wrong. It had spark, but I don't know as it was sparking at the right time or not. I'll start by mixing up a fresh batch of gas for it, then go on from there.

It acted funny and died in the last plane at a very critical moment, which is why it's in a new plane now. I thought it just needed to be retuned, but apparently when it quit, there was something more than a tune-up needed. I have a new one coming, so if I can't identify the problem I'll just switch them out and send this engine in to Todd Syssa.

I'll keep you advised on how it goes....or how it doesn't....

~ Jim ~ [sm=49_49.gif]

Kostas1

Jim,

i suggest asking for help on the Syssa engine thread,here :

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_88...m.htm#10059069

But IMO the fuel is not your problem!!!
Maybe a damaged ignition ?

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Oh, don't worry, Kostas, I know Todd very well, and I was in there writing before I came in here! Mostly I'm just waiting for my new Syssa to arrive so my old one can go in for upgrades. That thing ran perfectly until it just died last flight. I thought it was tuning, but now I'm thinking that wasn't the case at all. We think the shaft key sheared and skewed the timing, which makes me happy that it wasn't me doing a crappy job of tuning. Things break, I can live with that.

~ Jim ~ [sm=49_49.gif]

Kostas1

I hope that it's not something bad...[8D]