Redwing 30cc Sbach Build
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RE: Redwing 30cc Sbach Build
Hey Ari, those are mods I had them make as well - the v2 will have finished cockpit. Also a couple other changes.
Hey Jack, I had a single battery set up, on a 2300 mah. I think 4oz or so. So there is 6oz. did you add anything else to the kit that you know of? I'd be interested to try to find the difference in weight.
Hey Jack, I had a single battery set up, on a 2300 mah. I think 4oz or so. So there is 6oz. did you add anything else to the kit that you know of? I'd be interested to try to find the difference in weight.
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RE: Redwing 30cc Sbach Build
ORIGINAL: RedwingRC
Hey Ari, those are mods I had them make as well - the v2 will have finished cockpit. Also a couple other changes.
Hey Ari, those are mods I had them make as well - the v2 will have finished cockpit. Also a couple other changes.
It may be a while till I get the time to build the plane but at least, I can inspeact it from the quality point of view. The photos I have seen here so far look extremely promising
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RE: Redwing 30cc Sbach Build
ORIGINAL: RedwingRC
Hey Ari, those are mods I had them make as well - the v2 will have finished cockpit. Also a couple other changes.
Hey Jack, I had a single battery set up, on a 2300 mah. I think 4oz or so. So there is 6oz. did you add anything else to the kit that you know of? I'd be interested to try to find the difference in weight.
Hey Ari, those are mods I had them make as well - the v2 will have finished cockpit. Also a couple other changes.
Hey Jack, I had a single battery set up, on a 2300 mah. I think 4oz or so. So there is 6oz. did you add anything else to the kit that you know of? I'd be interested to try to find the difference in weight.
The other thing is my batteries are as far forward as I can get them to balance the plane at 12mm. So a weight reduction of 6 oz. or so wouldn't be feasible, or not on my plane anyway.
I'd be a bit leary now of having a finished cockpit especially with a pilot as the weight is all behind the CG.
So perhaps somewhere a person could lose 6 oz.. Still comes in at 11lbs. 7oz.. if I were to use a lighter engine there simply would be no way to balance it without moving the engine further forward and then it wouldn't look very good. Not really much room to do it either unless the whole front of the cowl was cut out, or with the Syssa anyways.
Be interesting to see what the others are coming in at with their setups.
I weighed with 2 different scales and come up with the same weight. Not bad but quite a bit off the advertised weight.
Jack
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RE: Redwing 30cc Sbach Build
Hey Jack
I used a lipo with regulator in mine - 2200, and the total on that was about 5oz. So if yours are 6oz each, that is one gone, and 1 oz less on the other, so about 7. but it is still heavy. I wonder if they made the canopies or cowls a little thicker.
I did put my battery ALL the way forward though. velcroed it to some light ply, that was screwed down to keep it in place. That way I could easily remove it to charge it.
I used a lipo with regulator in mine - 2200, and the total on that was about 5oz. So if yours are 6oz each, that is one gone, and 1 oz less on the other, so about 7. but it is still heavy. I wonder if they made the canopies or cowls a little thicker.
I did put my battery ALL the way forward though. velcroed it to some light ply, that was screwed down to keep it in place. That way I could easily remove it to charge it.
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RE: Redwing 30cc Sbach Build
I used a 5 cell and a 4 cell n/cd which weigh 10 oz..My batteries are tie wrapped to the right side of the engine box under the cowl.
Which engine did you use Tim? You said your CG was at 16cm. Wondering if you're getting away with a bit lighter setup but you're flying it at the edge of perhaps being tail heavy?
I really like the construction of the plane. The glass parts are good and fairly light. The canopy seems light but perhaps it could lose a bit. don't know how you'd get the framework any lighter though and keep it strong enough to last.
If the CG is supposed to be 12 to 13 cm it's flirting with being a tail heavy construction.
Still very very nice. Can't wait to get it in the air
Which engine did you use Tim? You said your CG was at 16cm. Wondering if you're getting away with a bit lighter setup but you're flying it at the edge of perhaps being tail heavy?
I really like the construction of the plane. The glass parts are good and fairly light. The canopy seems light but perhaps it could lose a bit. don't know how you'd get the framework any lighter though and keep it strong enough to last.
If the CG is supposed to be 12 to 13 cm it's flirting with being a tail heavy construction.
Still very very nice. Can't wait to get it in the air
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RE: Redwing 30cc Sbach Build
I got the plane itself put together. The servos are mounted the linkages are done. Ignition and ignition batteries are mounted on the side of the engine box. Using 2300 niMh for the ignition and a single A123 for the receiver. Don't know where the receiver batterie will go till balancing.
Got the fuel tank plumed and used a heavy Clunk with a filter on it that I got in Toledo from Henry at RC Aero Products. The clunk that came with the tank was to light and wouldn't let the fuel line go to the bottom of the tank. I ran across the same problem before with the smaller tank sizes.
I'll have to mount the receiver and finish the extensions. Then fix the interference on the muffler. We are close.[sm=thumbs_up.gif]
Got the fuel tank plumed and used a heavy Clunk with a filter on it that I got in Toledo from Henry at RC Aero Products. The clunk that came with the tank was to light and wouldn't let the fuel line go to the bottom of the tank. I ran across the same problem before with the smaller tank sizes.
I'll have to mount the receiver and finish the extensions. Then fix the interference on the muffler. We are close.[sm=thumbs_up.gif]
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RE: Redwing 30cc Sbach Build
I thought I would throw in a few pictures. Can't really finish it till I get the muffler welded up. I'll do that tomorrow for sure.
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RE: Redwing 30cc Sbach Build
Hey guys - Thanks Jack, glad you like it, and it does fly good - I've got a few ideas for v2 though.
Hey Tom - that 2300 nimh is overkill for sure! That's going to add some weight. Can you go a little less or do a single a123? How many mAh is your a123? I did a single 2200 lipo and easily got 5 flights on a single charge.
Hey Tom - that 2300 nimh is overkill for sure! That's going to add some weight. Can you go a little less or do a single a123? How many mAh is your a123? I did a single 2200 lipo and easily got 5 flights on a single charge.
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RE: Redwing 30cc Sbach Build
Mine arrived this morning.
Packaging was excellent and no visible damage anywhere.
I agree with you guys, at a glance the quality seems excellent. Can't wait to build it !
The plan is to power it with an MVVS26cc
Packaging was excellent and no visible damage anywhere.
I agree with you guys, at a glance the quality seems excellent. Can't wait to build it !
The plan is to power it with an MVVS26cc
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RE: Redwing 30cc Sbach Build
ORIGINAL: wingburner
Tom, looks as though we've about the same amount done.
Got the ign., tank along with fuel dot and all plumbing done, rudder and rudder servo done. Gear and tailwheel on of my own. I can't figure out how the tailwheel ass. with the kit works.
My first go at hinges with gorilla glue, I will do the rest of the hinges with it.
Tom, looks as though we've about the same amount done.
Got the ign., tank along with fuel dot and all plumbing done, rudder and rudder servo done. Gear and tailwheel on of my own. I can't figure out how the tailwheel ass. with the kit works.
My first go at hinges with gorilla glue, I will do the rest of the hinges with it.
The way you assemble the tail wheel is to drill a small hole in the bowl shape hole in the tiller arm. The hole should be perpendicular to the center line of the plane. Push the spring wire all the way up the bracket. Install the tiller arm and drop the taper collar (came with the tailwheel kit) in the hole. Install the set screw for the taper collar thru the hole drilled in the tiller arm to capture the spring wire.
What I did was I cut off the wire just below the rudder. I glued the piece of wire that I cut off in a small hole drilled in the rudder to work the tiller arm.
One more comment I want to make. The tail wheel bracket is molded of thin plastic and not very strong. It will allow the tail to sway. I will fly it that way as I like to play the cards that I am dealt. If it turns out to be too weak I'll replace it with something else.
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RE: Redwing 30cc Sbach Build
As far as the CG goes, the ones in the manual are typically conservative most of the time so if they are aft a slight bit it wont hurt much. Also how are you guys measuring your CG? upright or inverted?
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RE: Redwing 30cc Sbach Build
ORIGINAL: T3beatz
As far as the CG goes, the ones in the manual are typically conservative most of the time so if they are aft a slight bit it wont hurt much. Also how are you guys measuring your CG? upright or inverted?
As far as the CG goes, the ones in the manual are typically conservative most of the time so if they are aft a slight bit it wont hurt much. Also how are you guys measuring your CG? upright or inverted?
I would like to know how much weight Tim needs to add to the nose to get his plane to balance at 12 or 13cm?
What difference does it make whether it's balance upright or inverted?
As long as the plane is level when you do your CG check it balances at the same place. Am I wrong?
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RE: Redwing 30cc Sbach Build
ORIGINAL: coronabob
The way you assemble the tail wheel is to drill a small hole in the bowl shape hole in the tiller arm. The hole should be perpendicular to the center line of the plane. Push the spring wire all the way up the bracket. Install the tiller arm and drop the taper collar (came with the tailwheel kit) in the hole. Install the set screw for the taper collar thru the hole drilled in the tiller arm to capture the spring wire.
What I did was I cut off the wire just below the rudder. I glued the piece of wire that I cut off in a small hole drilled in the rudder to work the tiller arm.
One more comment I want to make. The tail wheel bracket is molded of thin plastic and not very strong. It will allow the tail to sway. I will fly it that way as I like to play the cards that I am dealt. If it turns out to be too weak I'll replace it with something else.
ORIGINAL: wingburner
Tom, looks as though we've about the same amount done.
Got the ign., tank along with fuel dot and all plumbing done, rudder and rudder servo done. Gear and tailwheel on of my own. I can't figure out how the tailwheel ass. with the kit works.
My first go at hinges with gorilla glue, I will do the rest of the hinges with it.
Tom, looks as though we've about the same amount done.
Got the ign., tank along with fuel dot and all plumbing done, rudder and rudder servo done. Gear and tailwheel on of my own. I can't figure out how the tailwheel ass. with the kit works.
My first go at hinges with gorilla glue, I will do the rest of the hinges with it.
The way you assemble the tail wheel is to drill a small hole in the bowl shape hole in the tiller arm. The hole should be perpendicular to the center line of the plane. Push the spring wire all the way up the bracket. Install the tiller arm and drop the taper collar (came with the tailwheel kit) in the hole. Install the set screw for the taper collar thru the hole drilled in the tiller arm to capture the spring wire.
What I did was I cut off the wire just below the rudder. I glued the piece of wire that I cut off in a small hole drilled in the rudder to work the tiller arm.
One more comment I want to make. The tail wheel bracket is molded of thin plastic and not very strong. It will allow the tail to sway. I will fly it that way as I like to play the cards that I am dealt. If it turns out to be too weak I'll replace it with something else.
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RE: Redwing 30cc Sbach Build
Tom yours is looking good!!! [sm=thumbup.gif]
I am back to work so I don't when mine will maiden. I am going to try and get out one evening if I can get home early enough.
I am back to work so I don't when mine will maiden. I am going to try and get out one evening if I can get home early enough.
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RE: Redwing 30cc Sbach Build
Yeah. I figured out the tail wheel myself but messed up the flat I ground for the screw. When I corrected for location I got the wire to thin. I'm need new glasses.
Tim. It's A Fromco around 2600 mAh. But to be honest I'm not worried about the weight. I'm still learning to 3D and suck at it. I'm not expecting any power problems since my Cub was 13.5lb and went vertical with that engine with no trouble. The 2300 4 cell is the same size and weight as my 800 mAh. I think balance and the right prop would be more important. 5 flights with one Charge, Hummm. I may have to try the lighter set up. Never to old to learn.
PS: A C/G location is never a spot on thing. Just a starting point. No two planes are the same.
Tim. It's A Fromco around 2600 mAh. But to be honest I'm not worried about the weight. I'm still learning to 3D and suck at it. I'm not expecting any power problems since my Cub was 13.5lb and went vertical with that engine with no trouble. The 2300 4 cell is the same size and weight as my 800 mAh. I think balance and the right prop would be more important. 5 flights with one Charge, Hummm. I may have to try the lighter set up. Never to old to learn.
PS: A C/G location is never a spot on thing. Just a starting point. No two planes are the same.
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RE: Redwing 30cc Sbach Build
ORIGINAL: Tseres
PS: A C/G location is never a spot on thing. Just a starting point. No two planes are the same.
PS: A C/G location is never a spot on thing. Just a starting point. No two planes are the same.
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RE: Redwing 30cc Sbach Build
Hey Guys -
on the CG... Like any other company - I'm hesitant to tell anyone too far aft to start, as that CAN be harder for people. But 12-13 should be no problem. 16 was a handful, 13 should be fine, unless you are used to flying tame, sport style planes. Then you may want to stick closer to the 12 side.
if you want to 3d, keep edging back a bit, it will do everything easier (until it gets too far). It is a very personal thing. Also, it depends how you or I are balancing them. If you're using your finger and end up resting towards the front of your finger and I the back, then it could be a full cm off just on our technique. So that's why the CG is a personal thing.
If it doesn't 3d well for you, and seems like it won't hold steady in a hover or wants to fall out of a rolling harrier etc, then move it back. Make sure your landings are fine and nothing gets too touchy in flight. And keep inching it back until it does all the manuevers pretty well, OR until it starts getting touchy on landing (porpoising etc)
on the CG... Like any other company - I'm hesitant to tell anyone too far aft to start, as that CAN be harder for people. But 12-13 should be no problem. 16 was a handful, 13 should be fine, unless you are used to flying tame, sport style planes. Then you may want to stick closer to the 12 side.
if you want to 3d, keep edging back a bit, it will do everything easier (until it gets too far). It is a very personal thing. Also, it depends how you or I are balancing them. If you're using your finger and end up resting towards the front of your finger and I the back, then it could be a full cm off just on our technique. So that's why the CG is a personal thing.
If it doesn't 3d well for you, and seems like it won't hold steady in a hover or wants to fall out of a rolling harrier etc, then move it back. Make sure your landings are fine and nothing gets too touchy in flight. And keep inching it back until it does all the manuevers pretty well, OR until it starts getting touchy on landing (porpoising etc)
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RE: Redwing 30cc Sbach Build
That is spot on advise Tim. There is no sense in making a new plane tail heavy right off the bat. I did that on my Seagull Yak and crunched it before I got it right. It's best to creep up on it from being nose heavy. It should last longer that way and you can at least learn what you like and don't like in a set up to suit your flying.
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RE: Redwing 30cc Sbach Build
did a lot of cutting and welding on the muffler to try and make it fit. I was only partially successful.I ended up cutting a little clearance around the front mounting bolt in the cowl. There was no way to carve enough off of the muffler to make it fit. The work was not in vane cause I got to cut a smaller hole in the cowl and the drum area clears.
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RE: Redwing 30cc Sbach Build
Damn Tom, if I do say so myself, that looks sharp!
I love the shots from the front, from 3/4, that really show the curve in the canopy AND turtle deck. I hate seeing those sbachs with a staright back. They just don't look as cool
I love the shots from the front, from 3/4, that really show the curve in the canopy AND turtle deck. I hate seeing those sbachs with a staright back. They just don't look as cool
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RE: Redwing 30cc Sbach Build
I'm going to deck it out after I got it flying the way I want. I want to do an R/C Scheme. Everyone is going after the scale look and that's cool but it's been done.
Waiting on some Redwing RC stickers for the firs graphics. Then put the names of all the parts makers somewhere like the racers. At least that is the direction I'm heading for now.
Having a big Warbird meet in Muncie In. this weekend and I'll have to get the P-47 Ready for that. Hopefully I can maiden this Sbach before I have to get ready for that. But there is always next week.
Waiting on some Redwing RC stickers for the firs graphics. Then put the names of all the parts makers somewhere like the racers. At least that is the direction I'm heading for now.
Having a big Warbird meet in Muncie In. this weekend and I'll have to get the P-47 Ready for that. Hopefully I can maiden this Sbach before I have to get ready for that. But there is always next week.
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RE: Redwing 30cc Sbach Build
ORIGINAL: RedwingRC
Damn Tom, if I do say so myself, that looks sharp!
I love the shots from the front, from 3/4, that really show the curve in the canopy AND turtle deck. I hate seeing those sbachs with a staright back. They just don't look as cool
Damn Tom, if I do say so myself, that looks sharp!
I love the shots from the front, from 3/4, that really show the curve in the canopy AND turtle deck. I hate seeing those sbachs with a staright back. They just don't look as cool
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RE: Redwing 30cc Sbach Build
ORIGINAL: Tseres
I'm going to deck it out after I got it flying the way I want. I want to do an R/C Scheme. Everyone is going after the scale look and that's cool but it's been done.
Waiting on some Redwing RC stickers for the firs graphics. Then put the names of all the parts makers somewhere like the racers. At least that is the direction I'm heading for now.
Having a big Warbird meet in Muncie In. this weekend and I'll have to get the P-47 Ready for that. Hopefully I can maiden this Sbach before I have to get ready for that. But there is always next week.
I'm going to deck it out after I got it flying the way I want. I want to do an R/C Scheme. Everyone is going after the scale look and that's cool but it's been done.
Waiting on some Redwing RC stickers for the firs graphics. Then put the names of all the parts makers somewhere like the racers. At least that is the direction I'm heading for now.
Having a big Warbird meet in Muncie In. this weekend and I'll have to get the P-47 Ready for that. Hopefully I can maiden this Sbach before I have to get ready for that. But there is always next week.