Tseres

This is the first time that I'm doing a thread of my own. I've always participated in someone else's thread.
I received a 30cc Sbach from Redwing RC today and decided to give it a go. It is an ARF and a fast build ARF at that. Just wondering what some of you guys do to your Arfs to make them last or fly better. I have very limited experience in building ARFs but have picked up a few things in the last couple of years Which I plan on Sharing. And if anyone has a better way this is the place to let it be known.

Tseres

Here are the pictures of the package and the un packing Stage.

The plane came in doubled up cardboard boxes. and Fed Ex did a nice job delivering it in one peace.
The Planes covering was in excellent shape, did not find any wrinkles anywhere.
the Hardware package looks to be of High Quality and came with turnbuckle push rods and ball links. I'm going to use all the Hardware that came with the plane.
Most of all I like the Smily Face Cowl.

Michel

Hi

I,m in ,................................................. ..... go for it [sm=thumbs_up.gif][sm=thumbs_up.gif]

Michel

Bpar4

My Feedback: (1)

Tom, this looks like a great project.  Will be here with you.  Bob

Michel

Hi
The last picture ,......................... is that youre JC 28 , with a J-Tec wrap-around . Whats that weight doing on it ? And please stop distracting me with that Harley

Michel

Tseres

Hey Michel

Yes that is the JC-28. And I would never try to distract you with a Harley

Piston

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Tom

GREAT to see you with this kit on your table. RedWing RC did a fantastic job bringing this kit in.
And stop kicking yourself!!! I have seen your building ability and it is expert grade......

Hey Tim (RedWingRC).... wow..... impressive kit....

subscribed!!!!

Cheers
Henry

Tseres

I did get a little bit done on it after supper.

It did have a few bubbles in the covering on the fuse. They were hard to see till I started to go over the covering with the Iron.
I was pleased to find triangle reinforcements for the firewall.
I got the covering cut out and the two elevator servos mounted and the wood is hardened around the stab alignment dowel and the servo area with CA. I'm going to try and mount the engine tomorrow after flying. Man can't live by building alone. Then I'll fuel proof the firewall and inside the wing socket with 30min. Epoxy thinned with 20% alcohol. It is amazing how much more strength it gives to the wing socket. Also planning on pining the firewall at that time.
Yup That looks like a canister or tuned pipe tunnel. Nicely done feature. But the JC-28 don't need a tuned pipe for power.[sm=thumbs_up.gif]

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Little bit easier than the Jug huh

Tseres

That's no joke. The custom bike was easier then the jug.

Bob Parker

My Feedback: (18)

Hey Old Tom
Sell that bike and you could buy a lot more of this nice RC stuff.
Bob

Tseres

It's for sale. I need more plane space and spending money.

Tseres

Thanks to all you guys for peaking in.

I have piddled a little with the engine mounting. Looks like It may not be so easy.
The prop hub is a little short for this air frame but worked great on the Cub. I may have to cut the front of the cowl out for the engine to fit. I don't really want to ruin that great Smile. Will see what I can come up with tomorrow.

Also the instructions aren't that good. It it's better if you have built some planes of this stile before you attempt this one. The plane itself builds just like the rest of the ARFs that I built before and is not anymore difficult then the others.

CannonFodder

My Feedback: (23)

Hey Tom,

That is a sweet looking plane from Redwing RC, I really like the packaging looks very professional. One request I have on this build thread is to put great detail for us new builders of gasser planes, like pinning the firewall and stuff. Thanks for starting the thread.

Mark

Tseres

Hi Mark Welcome aboard.

I'll do the best I can but if for some reason you don't understand. Don't hesitate to ask. Even if I don't know, someone else will have an answer.

RedwingRC

Hey Tom,

Moving pretty fast!It's looking great.

Quick Note - IDOhave a build video, but it won't be done till tomorrow. Then I'll have it online. It will make it easy to put together for even the most novice.(Ithink!Feedback appreciated).

Yeah, the firewall was moved back for that "other"engine...

I'm with ya, Ihate to cut out the cowl too, but that's the one thing with the JCon this plane, is that the cooling head is go close to the prop hub, that you are going to HAVEto cut that out, ORif you get a machine shop to cut you an extender somehow?Not sure if that would work (if the thread on the engine shaft would be long enough or not?)

IFYou do deicde to just use the hub where it is on the JC(this will mean moving the engine up about 20mm), I would cut blocks of 1/4"plywood. See my horrible digital drawing!Start with 1 1/4"x1 1/4", then 1x1, then 3/4x3/4 for example.This will give it a firm seat on the firewall, and use a smaller amount of wood. I'm not sure exactly how many you'll need but this is the idea.

For those of you keeping an eye on the thread let me know if you have any questions. Also - Ihave an mx2 that will work with the JC28cc engine WITHOUTmodification to the firewall. Green and Red Schemes on that one

TimBle

Redwing,

Any chance you will be doing the Edge 540 V3 soon and the MX-R (Red Bull Air race single seat MX-S) before end 2010?
Distributor in South Africa yet?

Tseres

This morning While topping off Batteries to go flying. I decided to take a closer look and found that you will be able to use the JC-28 in the Sbach without much trouble. As it turned out I took more then I needed to on the top of the smile. I didn't need more clearance in the corners of the smile. Remember that when you guys are doing yours,
This is the first step in mounting the engine. Centering it up to the Spinner.I didn't have the right size on hand so I had to improvise. I used a smaller one centered it and drew a pencil mark around it so I can keep it Visually centered while I cut clearance for the cooling fins. On My 50cc planes I found that you need around 1/4 in of clearance between the finns and the fiberglass or the vibration is going to shake the glass and the finns together and will crack there.
First I put a black marker line for an outline to go back to. I used an Execto blade to carve some of the glass away then went by hand with a file to get it closer to what I needed. This is just roughed in and I used a round and a flat file to get what I wanted. Now I'll finish the edges with sand paper when the time comes. Have other clearances to cut first.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Block off the upper inlets and you'll have fantastic cooling. That looks excellent Tom.

RedwingRC

Tom, I should have just done the JC 28 on the prototype!  That looks cool with the fins right there!  And the quality / cost  is fantastic on the JC.

TimBle, I'm working on a couple new projects.  Not sure if it will be before the end of 2010 or the turn of the year, but pretty soon!

I don't have a distributor in S.Africa though

rmathews

My Feedback: (1)

Great looking plane Tseres,you are doing nice build report,I'm in need more storage space.Rich

Tseres

Just so you know. I'm working on another project for my wife and I don't have the time to put into the plane build like I normally have. That is the reason that things are in bits and peaces. Whenever I can I put in an hour there or a half hour here.

While in piddling I decided to put some rough clearances in for the J=Tec muffler. I'll pick on it first. All the manufacturers of these mufflers don't take into consideration that these mufflers have to fit inside of cowls. Most of them extend to far in front of the front mounting screw. I've had this problem before. I'm one of the lucky ones that can fabricate and even weld aluminum. If you will notice the front of the cowl is touching the tip of the muffler. I have it marked and will reduce this area as needed. I have in the past cut a hole in the cowl to clear that area and it cracked. So this time I'm changing the muffler.

You can probably guess by now that I don't like to use a dremel tool for grinding fiberglass. I try to avoid F/G Dust at all cost. It makes me itch. So i used a drill to outline the corners and then a hole saw to give me enough clearance so I can get my tin snips in there to cut the clearance hole for the exhaust. Will be nibble ing on this in the future.

I also need 3 1/4 in. standoffs to properly set the hub of the engine. This is my second gripe. If JC would have made the prop hub 12mm longer I would have been able to have the engine mounted already and wouldn't have had to butcher up the cowl. It doesn't matter how well Henry or Milton listen. Roomer has it that Standardizing falls on def ears at JC. So this problem will probably never be solved. Even if you say that you know other engines already do this.
I don't have Standofs that size but have some longer ones and the rest I'll make up with Aircraft Ply. Lite ply is no good cause it crushes to easy.

Thats it for now.

Michel

Hi

Slooooowwwwwwllllyyyy Tom ,..................... this is major surgery,...... looking good so far

Michel

AJsToyz

Hey Mr. Itchy!

Ok, I'm a dremel guy but I hear you on the fiber glass. When you go to drill the hole for the fuel dot? If thats what you are using, have you ever tried a uni bit? Pre drill with a small drill like a 1/8" and take her up from there. Since there is no spiral it tends not to pull on the fiberglass and try to crack it. I actually use them on my wood too where I can.

I like these things for the dremel, to cool! Come in a few shapes.

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Attachme....aspx?pid=9933

Ok Tom I'm out of your hair, I know the planes going to look great!

Andy

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Tom
As usual great work,[sm=thumbs_up.gif] Now have you marked so will be watching to see what I can learn.

cheers Bob T