RE: Seagull Yak?
 

I guess I should invest in a "new" saito. the ole 1.20 ain't what she used to be I guess.http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f.../msn/75_75.gif

RE: Seagull Yak?
 

Well, I have flown mine all summer with the Saito 180,18x6 MAS, weighing in at 9lbs 12ozs and she has performed flawlessly. Right from the maiden on, I have been impressed with this cheap little Yak. Very nice smooth aerobatics. I don't, and can't do 3D, so for my style of sport aerobatics, this is a great plane.

I am one happy camper:D

RE: Seagull Yak?
 

Agree! It is a great plane

RE: Seagull Yak?
 

Saurecraut, I agree with you, it is a great plane. I now fly an EF 50cc Yak and while they are not the same, they both fly like a Yak. It is hard to describe, but they are responsive, and react the same whether inverted or upright. I have had approximately 14 planes since I started 6 years ago and these two rate at the top, with my Funtana 125 a close number 3..

RE: Seagull Yak?
 

I just ordered one of these Seagull Yaks from my favorite LHS and am really looking forward to flying it. I have an RCGF 20cc gas engine (V1 w/side mounted carb) to install on this jewel and, from what I've read and seen, it should be a great match. BP Hobbies is the US dealer/distributor for RCGF and have used the Seagull Yak 90 as a test bed for their 20cc engine (V2 rear mounted carb). The youtube video is impressive using a 16X6 wooden prop. I chose this airframe because I have had great experiences with Seagull ARFs, it's a great looking plane, and it has that big round cowl to hide the engine with just one or two (small?) holes. I also figured it would be the best to fit my "wide" engine into.
I had this engine mounted on a Great Planes Escapade 61 but, it was a bit too large for that airframe. It had great power for that 9lb bird but, it just didn't fit well. So, after I wrecked and broke the fuselage, I rebuilt the Escapade and installed an OS 61...which is a much better fit.
I had some difficulty with the engine though. It kept dieing after gaining pattern altitude and we could not figure out why ....until today. I had disconnected the choke spring and connected a manual choke rod but, the intake air velocity was sucking the choke closed at high throttle. I watched it happen on a test stand this evening. Reattaching the spring stopped that problem and she now runs fine. I'll install a choke servo (and disconnect the spring) in the Yak for two reasons, convenience and to keep the choke open (or closed). I have this arrangement on my 50cc Wild Hare Giles/MX2 and it works great.
I will pick up my new bird on Wed. or Thurs. and I'm excited. Once "tuned", I will use it as my back-up IMAC bird.

Thanks for posting your experiences, advice, and opinions here for others to learn from. I appreciate it.

RJ

RE: Seagull Yak?
 

I had a very accurate talking bathroom scale. It will announce your weight in several languages. I was going to weigh myself and then hold the airplane and weigh again and subtract the difference. However, when I stepped on the scale to weigh myself, that smarta scale said "one at a time please" in French, German, Spanish, and English ....so, I threw it in the trash.

RJ

RE: Seagull Yak?
 

Just picked up my Yak from the LHS and it's a beautiful ARF ...holding up the fine reputation Seagull has established. I probably won't get started on it 'til next week as I will be flying tomorrow and Sat. The little 20cc gasser I'll be mounting on it is pretty well broken in and running smoothly. I have everything else I need except the pinned hinges and I'll pick those up this weekend. I"m really looking forward to building and flying this one.

RJ

RE: Seagull Yak?
 

Mine's about 90% finished. I was impressed with the accuracy of the cuts for the horizontal and vertical stabs. First plane that I've built that lined up without adjustment. I also put some stripes on the bottom of mine for orientation.

RE: Seagull Yak?
 

JKnox, Nice looking on your upgrade w/the stripes.:)

RE: Seagull Yak?
 

Very nice. That's the same scheme I plan for mine. At my age, I need help determining top from bottom. :)
Please keep us posted on your progress ....especially the first flight.

RJ

RE: Seagull Yak?
 

I need some more advice fellows. What draw does the ignition have from the battery? Can I use a 900ma battery? 2nd question,,if I put two small batteries in series to increse the voltage I don't think the ma changes-corrrect? Thanks, Bill

RE: Seagull Yak?
 

ignition draw is likely around 100 mah per 10 minute flight. At least that is what I read from one manufacturer and it sounds about right. I have maintained a log of over 200 flights with a DLE 55 with a total draw per 10 minute flight averaging 300 mah for the ignition and servos; or 30 to 35 mah per minute.

RE: Seagull Yak?
 

Irun two A123 batteries (2300mah each) in my Giles 202 with a 55cc DLE. One batt is for the ignition and one for the receiver. Most mfgs. recommend that you DONOTrun the ignition and receiver from one battery ....too much chance for interference. Fully charged, they run 7.2v each. Ican fly 5 or 6 ten min. flights and the batteries will read about 6.3 volts each when I begin to charge them at home. There's plenty of charge remaining. I charge these batteries in the plane.

I run two 2100mah 2cell receiver pack LIPOs (one for receiver and one for ignition) with external switching BECs in my 26cc Spacewalker II and they work just as well ....and seem to last forever. This is a less expensive set-up than the A123 system as both the LIPOs (6 to 10C discharge rate) and BECs are less expensive. Iremove these batteries to charge them.
I plan to run the two LIPO system in my Yak also. It is the simplest and easiest to install and works very well. If you do the same, Irecommend you buy switching BECs that can be set to 6 volts. The larger servos can use the higher voltage and you'll get more torque and speed. The ignition system will operate better/more reliably at 6 volts also.

With either system Inever have to worry about charging at the field. However, Imake certain they are charged before each trip to the field.

RJ

RE: Seagull Yak?
 

Mine's ready when some engine parts arrive - Hopefully soon. Still need to balance her when the engine's together. I'm thinking the consensus is that the manual spec is tail heavy and most here are starting out at 5.5 from the LE at the wing root?

RE: Seagull Yak?
 

Slowand Steady & Rowdyjoe, Thanks for the advice. I had planned to run two packs. It's a brand new engine so I'll be able to do a lot of testing before I maiden it.
Thanks again, Bill

RE: Seagull Yak?
 

I run my Funtana 125 with a single Life 6.6 volt 2100 mah battery. The ignition is powered through the receiver using a battery eliminator circuit, which filters interference and provides a ignition switch via my receiver. The battery is rated at 10 amps and weighs approximately 5.5 oz. The battery eliminator circuit weighs 1.5 oz. I think interference was more of an issue using the old 72 mgh radios. My Futaba 12 fg has been bullet proof as was my Futaba 7 cap, both 2.4. I would avoid the weight of two batteries if possible, this plane is already on the hefty side; though either way, you can't go wrong. Incidentally, the battery uses around 200 Mah per 10 minute flight and I have yet to add more than 1200 Mah on recharge after starting with a full pack and approximately 6 flights.

RE: Seagull Yak?
 

I can agree with Slow and Steady on the interference issue. The newer switching BECs are much better at filtering out unwanted signals than the older style analog BECs.
A BEC is basically a step-down transformer as it reduces the input voltage to a pre-programmed output voltage. In our case, we want a minimum 4.8 volts/6 volts max. to the receiver and no more than 6 volts to (most) CD ignitions. As Istated earlier, if you choose a BEC with selectable voltage output (5 volts or 6 volts) you can set the jumper to 6 volts and be right where you want to be ....full voltage to the ignition and full voltage for the servos.

Good luck with your build.
By the way. If you shop around you can find those 2100mah 7.4v LIPO receiver packs for under $15 each and the BECs can be found for around the same price. Try http://www.hobbypartz.com/83p-2100ma...-74-5c-tx.html

RJ

RE: Seagull Yak?
 

I paid approximately $50 for the two Battery Eliminator Circuits (BEC) I use (one in a EF Yak and the other in my Funtana 125). One is from Syssa, which I prefer and a second from Chief. I would love to find a source offering a similar product for $15.

RE: Seagull Yak?
 

Here ya go ..... http://www.hobbypartz.com/ubec.html

Oh ....one more thing; Hobby Partz is out of stock on the receiver battery Iwanted so, I bought 2 Ziippy's from Hobby King's USAwarehouse for approx. $12 each ....about $30 total with USPSpriority shipping for both. (7.4 volt 2S).

RJ

RE: Seagull Yak?
 

the ibec or ultra becs that slow and steady is talking about have more features than a normal bec, they have 4 stage noise filtering and including a optical filter on some and can act as a kill switch also, there is only a few on the market at the moment and are great but realitivly expensive for what they are at the moment at around $50 dollars. Do you need the extra filtering if you are on 2.4 who knows. I have two batterys in my yak and at 10lb 6oz dry she flys fine.
But on another model where I was more concerned about weight I have one of these ultrabecs running the ignition from one of the two nimh I have set in redundancy to the rx.

http://www.tech-aero.net/ultra-ibec

This is the same product that Syssa engines sells.

RE: Seagull Yak?
 

Slow and Steady, I just got a BEC from BP Hobbies for 12.95. Bill

RE: Seagull Yak?
 

Oh, you must mean something like this .... http://www.hobbypartz.com/ubube.html

RJ

RE: Seagull Yak?
 

No.

That does not have optical isolation or a rx controlled kill switch feature.

Im not saying the ubec you linked to wont work, but it does not have the same features of the tech aero unit.

looking forward to the chinese copying it and selling it for about $15 dollars though.

RE: Seagull Yak?
 

Idon't need optical isolation with a switching BEC and Iuse a Smart Fly kill switch inserted between the power source and the ignition controlled by the receiver via a switch on the transmitter.
I guess it depends on personal choice. Iprobably spend as much on my version of the system as other folks do on theirs but, I don't like putting all of my eggs in one basket. I can also kill the engine using the choke servo.

RJ

RE: Seagull Yak?
 

I started assembly of my Yak tonight (barely). I'm replacing all CA hinges with Dubro plastic metal pin hinges and have epoxied the elevator to the horizontal. I need to widen/thicken the slots in the wings to get the new hinges to fit well but, it should go quickly. The hinges fit the aileron slots nice and tight but, the wing slots are too thin. It will be worth the extra effort and small expense to have more confidence in the hinges.

RJ