Why does the HK SuperG autogyro needs the rotor head tilt to the left?
06-29-2015, 11:47 PM
#26
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airbusdrvr, glad to hear about your successful maiden.
I have an idea how to save most of the blast weight in the nose when using 2800 mah battery:
If it is possible to replace the heavy kv850 stock motor with this one (*) (or other suitable high quality motor)
This motor is lighter than the stock one,and have higher efficiency,(Consumes less current). It will increase flight duration,flight performance and decrease take-off distance.
(*) AXI 2814/14 kv=840 ,spins 10X7 prop with 4s battery
I have an idea how to save most of the blast weight in the nose when using 2800 mah battery:
If it is possible to replace the heavy kv850 stock motor with this one (*) (or other suitable high quality motor)
This motor is lighter than the stock one,and have higher efficiency,(Consumes less current). It will increase flight duration,flight performance and decrease take-off distance.
(*) AXI 2814/14 kv=840 ,spins 10X7 prop with 4s battery
06-30-2015, 02:25 AM
#27
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I love Axi and other good brand motors. It would be a nice idea except for the SuperG design. One would need to cut off the engine nacell to access the motor mount screws. The screws that hold the motor are not accessible. Realistically, reducing the motor weight would do little overall. One either needs a large heavy battery or ballast to balance the gyro. The design of this gyro is far from good. The main rotor shaft is half the diameter of the prop shaft. Think about that. The 10 inch prop is mounted on a 4mm shaft. The large three blade rotor is on a 2mm shaft. Go figure?
Last edited by airbusdrvr; 06-30-2015 at 04:26 AM.
06-30-2015, 11:17 AM
#29
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Eventually, your are going to make an incision when the pre-rotor system or the flex shaft fails. Done that!
By taking the pre-rotor system out, you have access to the motor screws with a long thin screw driver.
By taking the pre-rotor system out, you have access to the motor screws with a long thin screw driver.
06-30-2015, 12:42 PM
#30
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Reducing the motor weight would reduce also blast weight since the motor is located behind c.g.
Also a higher quality motor will consume less current and thus flight duration will increase.
Glad to know that there is an access to the motor screws.
By the way have you seen this?
http://www.micro-flight.com/Durafly%...20Upgrades.htm
Also a higher quality motor will consume less current and thus flight duration will increase.
Glad to know that there is an access to the motor screws.
By the way have you seen this?
http://www.micro-flight.com/Durafly%...20Upgrades.htm
07-01-2015, 11:27 AM
#32
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Somehow the flex shaft coil got unwound from the hex screw not been tight enough or no solder at the tips to support a tight hex screw.
I replaced the flex shaft and soldered 10mm at both ends. Has not unwound again.
I replaced the flex shaft and soldered 10mm at both ends. Has not unwound again.
07-03-2015, 03:20 AM
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Hi Xcaliber,
I am preparing my Autog 2 for flight with the OrangeRx 3 axis stabilizer.
This is according to your recommendation.
The space inside the Autog 2 is very limited.
Can you please upload a photo to show how and exactly where did you installed it?
Also how much right angular tilt did you use for the rotor head?
Any other tips would be appreciated.
I am preparing my Autog 2 for flight with the OrangeRx 3 axis stabilizer.
This is according to your recommendation.
The space inside the Autog 2 is very limited.
Can you please upload a photo to show how and exactly where did you installed it?
Also how much right angular tilt did you use for the rotor head?
Any other tips would be appreciated.
07-03-2015, 10:05 AM
#34
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Hay gadliy, the 3-axis stabilizer is held with Velcro, thin cushion and 1300mah on its side. I use a Velcro strap to hold the hatch.
The tilt, looks like about 1 to 2degs right. That's not with the stock blades.
Make sure that the 3 gyros are responding opposite to where you turn it. And try 50% gain and adjust as needed.
The tilt, looks like about 1 to 2degs right. That's not with the stock blades.
Make sure that the 3 gyros are responding opposite to where you turn it. And try 50% gain and adjust as needed.
Last edited by XCaliber; 07-03-2015 at 10:21 AM.
07-03-2015, 11:29 AM
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Hi Xcaliber,
Thank you very much for the photos. it is very helpful.
I have decided to save weight and remove the prerotator system (almost weight savings of 15%)
Will try to make long take-off run.
what kind of blades`are you using?
Thank you very much for the photos. it is very helpful.
I have decided to save weight and remove the prerotator system (almost weight savings of 15%)
Will try to make long take-off run.
what kind of blades`are you using?
07-03-2015, 01:03 PM
#39
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Nice metal rotor head, but I think it's overkill for the Auto G.
I hope they make this type of head for the Super G though, or could be modified to fit the Super G.
I hope they make this type of head for the Super G though, or could be modified to fit the Super G.
07-17-2015, 07:11 AM
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Hi Xcaliber,
Last week I tried to fly again my Autog 2.
Unfortunately I failed this time since after take-off the Autog rolled sharply to the left and fell aside. (As it did in the past after hand launch-see attached photo
)
I used 2 deg right tilt in the rotor head.
I assume that the stability problem caused maybe due to low RPM of the rotor.
When you use a prerotator as in the AGY2 when do you stop the auxiliary motor?
I stopped it before the start of the take-off run.
Last week I tried to fly again my Autog 2.
Unfortunately I failed this time since after take-off the Autog rolled sharply to the left and fell aside. (As it did in the past after hand launch-see attached photo
I used 2 deg right tilt in the rotor head.
I assume that the stability problem caused maybe due to low RPM of the rotor.
When you use a prerotator as in the AGY2 when do you stop the auxiliary motor?
I stopped it before the start of the take-off run.
07-17-2015, 06:43 PM
#42
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Hello gadily,
I also stop the pre-rotor just before the takeoff run, but I make sure it has plenty of spin and points into the wind.
And also, low rotor speed has made my roll to the left at takeoff.
Best of luck on your next try.
I also stop the pre-rotor just before the takeoff run, but I make sure it has plenty of spin and points into the wind.
And also, low rotor speed has made my roll to the left at takeoff.
Best of luck on your next try.
03-09-2016, 06:56 AM
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HI Xcaliber,
I used your advice and flown the Autog 2 for flight with the OrangeRx 3 axis stabilizer.
The stabilizer made the Autog 2 much more stable and comfort to fly.
Thank you for your good advice!
Now the problem is the Autog 2 flies too fast (Using the stock propeller) abd this makes me loosing orientation some time.
How can I make it fly straight and level slower?
Thank you
Gadi
I used your advice and flown the Autog 2 for flight with the OrangeRx 3 axis stabilizer.
The stabilizer made the Autog 2 much more stable and comfort to fly.
Thank you for your good advice!
Now the problem is the Autog 2 flies too fast (Using the stock propeller) abd this makes me loosing orientation some time.
How can I make it fly straight and level slower?
Thank you
Gadi
03-10-2016, 03:18 PM
#46
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Hi Gadi, I have not flown the Auto G2 or any other gyro for a while, but as I remember by flying with a 5 to 10mph wind it would slow down very much on the up wing leg. Power management and practice x 3 is the key!
