Newbe to life batteries
01-03-2015, 02:22 PM
#1
Newbe to life batteries
I am currently using a Triton2 in my shop to charge LIPO's for the one sparky bird I have and triton set up in my van to charge the same batt's it the field with no problems.
Now the Question I am in the process of changing my 6 v Nickel Hydride's out as they go bad to life packs charging these once they are in the fuse and hocked to Mpi switch #3470 can I charge them thru the switch port, (I understand I will have to add a balance port and that is not a problem), or do I have to charge thru the large wire plug ? then in this first bird I would have to lengthen them by about 3 inches.
Any help Please
Cheers Bob T
AMA13377
Now the Question I am in the process of changing my 6 v Nickel Hydride's out as they go bad to life packs charging these once they are in the fuse and hocked to Mpi switch #3470 can I charge them thru the switch port, (I understand I will have to add a balance port and that is not a problem), or do I have to charge thru the large wire plug ? then in this first bird I would have to lengthen them by about 3 inches.
Any help Please
Cheers Bob T
AMA13377
Last edited by rt3232; 01-03-2015 at 02:25 PM.
01-03-2015, 06:31 PM
#2
My Feedback: (10)
Do yourself a big favor and go here, and READ:
http://www.hangtimes.com/a123rxsetup.html
I've converted all my aircraft to LiFe onboard, and can balance and charge thru my MPI switch harnesses. Make sure you remove the white wire from the plug that connects to your Rx!
http://www.hangtimes.com/a123rxsetup.html
I've converted all my aircraft to LiFe onboard, and can balance and charge thru my MPI switch harnesses. Make sure you remove the white wire from the plug that connects to your Rx!
01-04-2015, 06:43 AM
#3
+1
I converted all my planes (warbirds) to LiFes several years ago. One plane has an Miracle switch from Hangtime Hobbies. The others have MPI switch. I charge and balance (at the same time) them through the switch charge port using a charge lead offered by Hangtime.
Brian
I converted all my planes (warbirds) to LiFes several years ago. One plane has an Miracle switch from Hangtime Hobbies. The others have MPI switch. I charge and balance (at the same time) them through the switch charge port using a charge lead offered by Hangtime.
Brian
01-04-2015, 02:00 PM
#4
Rv7grage
Well I went there read it then decided to down load and print it, now I have read it again and now trying to decide what "generation" my chargers are, First or second they are both Triton's one is a triton2 in my shop the other is a triton in the van for field charging, but from what I am reading I doubt I will ever need to field charge this life battery.
Like I said this is all new to me.
And thanks for your help
Cheers bob T
Well I went there read it then decided to down load and print it, now I have read it again and now trying to decide what "generation" my chargers are, First or second they are both Triton's one is a triton2 in my shop the other is a triton in the van for field charging, but from what I am reading I doubt I will ever need to field charge this life battery.
Like I said this is all new to me.
And thanks for your help
Cheers bob T
01-04-2015, 06:38 PM
#5
My Feedback: (10)
No worries, Bob!
If both your chargers are Tritons, then they are "first gen" and you need the adapter -link- to balance your packs with them. And, seriously- you NEED to balance charge your A123 onboard packs, every time. It's a good habit when working with any Lixx packs, and could very well save your model. The alternative to your Tritons is to just bite the bullet and purchase the (very small, very nice... very inexpensive) Cellpro Multi4 or 10xp charger. I use the Multi4 as my field charger, and have a Powerlab 8 at home for the big jobs. The 10XP might be a better choice for you if you decide to upgrade, because it will also discharge packs for storage or capacity checks - the Multi4 will not.
Also, if you buy the charger from Hangtimes, he includes the appropriate charge cable.
I can't stress enough the importance of developing a good habit, here... of balance charging every time. It will help you get the best longevity out of your A123 / LiFe packs, and will also let you know if there is a problem - BEFORE that problem costs you a model.
I've now converted all my flying stock to A123, so if you have more questions please don't hesitate!
If both your chargers are Tritons, then they are "first gen" and you need the adapter -link- to balance your packs with them. And, seriously- you NEED to balance charge your A123 onboard packs, every time. It's a good habit when working with any Lixx packs, and could very well save your model. The alternative to your Tritons is to just bite the bullet and purchase the (very small, very nice... very inexpensive) Cellpro Multi4 or 10xp charger. I use the Multi4 as my field charger, and have a Powerlab 8 at home for the big jobs. The 10XP might be a better choice for you if you decide to upgrade, because it will also discharge packs for storage or capacity checks - the Multi4 will not.
Also, if you buy the charger from Hangtimes, he includes the appropriate charge cable.
I can't stress enough the importance of developing a good habit, here... of balance charging every time. It will help you get the best longevity out of your A123 / LiFe packs, and will also let you know if there is a problem - BEFORE that problem costs you a model.
I've now converted all my flying stock to A123, so if you have more questions please don't hesitate!
Last edited by Rv7garage; 01-04-2015 at 06:40 PM.
01-04-2015, 08:13 PM
#7
Rv7grage
Next question's My radio equipment is all futaba 2.4 Fasst and all old style servo's (analog) and 617 and 6008 recivers, So do I need a voltage regulator between the switch and the recivers, if I switch to life 6.6 Vpacks
All of my Nimh pack are 5 cell 6.25 V 2000 + Ma sub C's and I have never had a problem,
Again Thanks for you kelp
Cheers Bob T
Next question's My radio equipment is all futaba 2.4 Fasst and all old style servo's (analog) and 617 and 6008 recivers, So do I need a voltage regulator between the switch and the recivers, if I switch to life 6.6 Vpacks
All of my Nimh pack are 5 cell 6.25 V 2000 + Ma sub C's and I have never had a problem,
Again Thanks for you kelp
Cheers Bob T
01-07-2015, 09:16 AM
#13
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I’m a newbie to LiFe batteries too. Actually, I’m new to electrics period. I do not like what I read about LiPo battries, fire issues and all. What I have NOT read is whether LiFe batteries are being used for “motor” power.
I’ve been reading tons of info regarding LiFe batteries for 2s “flight” or “receiver” batteries, however; zilch regarding motor power usage. This lack of information overall suggestis LiFe batteries are NOT highly recommended for “motor power”, however; I’m not finding definitive information anywhere to suggest to the contrary. I’ve purchased a electronic speed control that is LiFe capable (Cobra 40A with 6A switching BEC option).
Just now getting back into RC after 20 years away, the current issue I’m dealing with is that I have most all for a foam project I’m currently building “FliteTest FoamCub” and I’ve left the batteries and charger for last to purchase. I simply CANNOT afford trial and error or get this part wrong.
So my current stumbling block question... are LiFe batteries in fact being used as a power source for the motor? Knowing the prevailing answer to this question will help guide me toward the “right” first time purchase of charger/balancer system.
I’ve followed hundreds of posted “links” in the last month on this topic, so responding with more “links” probably will be fairly redundant. What I would like to read is are replies from those who are actually “using” LiFe batteries for motor power.
I appreciate the opportunity to ask and share here.
Mike
I’ve been reading tons of info regarding LiFe batteries for 2s “flight” or “receiver” batteries, however; zilch regarding motor power usage. This lack of information overall suggestis LiFe batteries are NOT highly recommended for “motor power”, however; I’m not finding definitive information anywhere to suggest to the contrary. I’ve purchased a electronic speed control that is LiFe capable (Cobra 40A with 6A switching BEC option).
Just now getting back into RC after 20 years away, the current issue I’m dealing with is that I have most all for a foam project I’m currently building “FliteTest FoamCub” and I’ve left the batteries and charger for last to purchase. I simply CANNOT afford trial and error or get this part wrong.
So my current stumbling block question... are LiFe batteries in fact being used as a power source for the motor? Knowing the prevailing answer to this question will help guide me toward the “right” first time purchase of charger/balancer system.
I’ve followed hundreds of posted “links” in the last month on this topic, so responding with more “links” probably will be fairly redundant. What I would like to read is are replies from those who are actually “using” LiFe batteries for motor power.
I appreciate the opportunity to ask and share here.
Mike
01-07-2015, 10:41 AM
#14
Hi mike
. I am like you NEW to electric's a few of the guys in our club used to fly .15 nito powered gnats for combat and it was great fun, but as all things we lost 2 of the guys to job changes so the combat died. Then at the end of 2 seasons ago one of our guys got a HOG electric, cheep and almost indestructible, this last season a new bunch got Hog's and we have been having a great time with them My chargers at the time would not work with Lipo's so I got a deal on my Tritons and they work great with 3C-2200 ma batt's required with the Hog's. when my current lipo's go bad I will change to the life's of the same value's
Now from a newbe as I under stand lipo's and life batt's it is the chemistry that is different, and as long as you balance charge and at the recommended rate you will not have any problems with ether. and yes the higher cell count life batt's are used for motors and receiver at the same time like lopo's
With that I hope I have not misstated any info.
Cheers Bob T
. I am like you NEW to electric's a few of the guys in our club used to fly .15 nito powered gnats for combat and it was great fun, but as all things we lost 2 of the guys to job changes so the combat died. Then at the end of 2 seasons ago one of our guys got a HOG electric, cheep and almost indestructible, this last season a new bunch got Hog's and we have been having a great time with them My chargers at the time would not work with Lipo's so I got a deal on my Tritons and they work great with 3C-2200 ma batt's required with the Hog's. when my current lipo's go bad I will change to the life's of the same value's
Now from a newbe as I under stand lipo's and life batt's it is the chemistry that is different, and as long as you balance charge and at the recommended rate you will not have any problems with ether. and yes the higher cell count life batt's are used for motors and receiver at the same time like lopo's
With that I hope I have not misstated any info.
Cheers Bob T
01-26-2015, 09:54 AM
#15
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hello Bob,
Sorry for not replying. I appreciate your information. Your group sounds like fun... be it a tad risky. ( smile ) I have to be honest, I steered away from the LiFe batteries. From my research, I think I'd much rather go with the A123 batteries, however; I cannot justify the expense with these at the moment. I caved and went with a Spyder 4s 2200 mah LiPo battery and an iCharger 106B+ charger with power supply combo all of which I purchased from ProgressiveRC out of Seattle.
I'm still applying the finishing touches to my scratch built Flight-Test FoamCub, but should be finished this week. I believe this will be my only "electric motor" gear for the foreseable future. Without doubt I will build other foam ships, but using existing "electrics" gear. This electrics stuff is too fickle and expensive for multiple aircraft ownership.
I have a completed scratch built Smith Miniplane with a 88"ws in storage which has a modified Partner 500 chainsaw engine, a half built scratch built Smith Miniplane with a 66"ws as well as a Balsa USA 1/4 scale J-3 Cub kit waiting to be converted and built into a Super Cub conversion. The 66"ws Smith will be powered by a Qudra Q-35 which has never been fired up as will the Super Cub coversion.
The 88"ws Smith has been flown two very busy flying seasons on two 5 cell NiCad batteries connected to an Ace 2x5 Redundant sysem.
I guess the point I'm getting at... I've flown in the past years on NiCad batteries with my gas powered ships with not one instance of battery failure either in the flight pack nor the transmitter. I have an eight acre home site with lots of clear unobstructed flying, why abandon NiCad batteries and gas motors?
My mind may change after getting some experience with the FoamCub. I do like the cleanliness and quiet of the electrics. I'm just tickled to return to the hobby.
Again, I appreciate your information, Bob...
Mike
Sorry for not replying. I appreciate your information. Your group sounds like fun... be it a tad risky. ( smile ) I have to be honest, I steered away from the LiFe batteries. From my research, I think I'd much rather go with the A123 batteries, however; I cannot justify the expense with these at the moment. I caved and went with a Spyder 4s 2200 mah LiPo battery and an iCharger 106B+ charger with power supply combo all of which I purchased from ProgressiveRC out of Seattle.
I'm still applying the finishing touches to my scratch built Flight-Test FoamCub, but should be finished this week. I believe this will be my only "electric motor" gear for the foreseable future. Without doubt I will build other foam ships, but using existing "electrics" gear. This electrics stuff is too fickle and expensive for multiple aircraft ownership.
I have a completed scratch built Smith Miniplane with a 88"ws in storage which has a modified Partner 500 chainsaw engine, a half built scratch built Smith Miniplane with a 66"ws as well as a Balsa USA 1/4 scale J-3 Cub kit waiting to be converted and built into a Super Cub conversion. The 66"ws Smith will be powered by a Qudra Q-35 which has never been fired up as will the Super Cub coversion.
The 88"ws Smith has been flown two very busy flying seasons on two 5 cell NiCad batteries connected to an Ace 2x5 Redundant sysem.
I guess the point I'm getting at... I've flown in the past years on NiCad batteries with my gas powered ships with not one instance of battery failure either in the flight pack nor the transmitter. I have an eight acre home site with lots of clear unobstructed flying, why abandon NiCad batteries and gas motors?
My mind may change after getting some experience with the FoamCub. I do like the cleanliness and quiet of the electrics. I'm just tickled to return to the hobby.
Again, I appreciate your information, Bob...
Mike
