luker737

My Feedback: (11)

I just bought a new arf trainer off ebay. the plane looks great the instruction weren't the best but i've built a few arf trainers so it wasn't that hard to put together. but saying that there was no seting for high or low setting for the throws so i have no idea how to set them .this is a semictric wing{ pardon the spelling} this is a china made plane . do i just center the servo and fly that was or use a plane that is about the same and use them.

gene6029

Start out with reduced throws first. Fly the plane around the field and decide if you need more of anything. If you have dual rates, you can allways increase the throws and switch to them in flight to see how it feels. I would start out with reduced throws though.....Gene

CGRetired

My Feedback: (1)

Why don't you give us more info, like the name and model aircraft you have, as well as the size (wing span and so on). But, basically, yes, you do center the control surface and the servo arms and go from there. You don't want to get to carried away with throws, though, and that's where more info on the model will help. A lot say "3/8 inch up and down" others may say 1/2 inch.. depends. But, I would stay away from dual rates, if that's what you may be headed with this question.... at least until you fly the plane a few times with the throws you DO use.

CGr.

noveldoc

My Feedback: (2)

Personally, I set the plane up standard and then fly. Usually I find one surface moves a bit too much or little for my liking and seems out of balance with the others. I resolve this by moving the control rod a hole in or out at the servo or control horn. You can also do this by changing travel in that channel with a lot of radios these days but I like to "hard wire".

Example. I put strip ailrons on my Kadet Senior. Quickly found out they were way to brisk and sensitive and the rudder was a bit lacking. So, at the control surface. moved aileron rods out a hole and rudder in one.

We all fly different. Just gotta play with it. But there is no reason with all those holes in the control horns and sevos plus the radio programming you cannot customize to just what you like.

Tom

dem45133

Yes, I have the same question as luker737.  My Aeromax manual is prettyuseless (it really really  is BAD, but at least at first observationsthe model isn't too bad...just hope the glue used holds.  I actuallywas impressed with the fit for a cheap bird.).  On mine its a 69"wingspan J3 Cub scale (or so they say) and since I'm too much of arookie to know better.... I do think it will work out well as a firsttrainer.  When they say throw at 3/8" or 1/2"...is that a difference ofthe trailing edge from neutral or is it from max deflection from bothupper and lower positions (as in an aileron)?   Seems they should givethat setting in degrees of rotation... then the scale wouldn't matter.

My J3 instructions says nothing on the matter.  For a starting point onthe aileron I am considering + and - 15 degrees or a total throw of 30degrees... would this be close?   Likely + and minus 20 degrees on therudder?  Slow larger trainer remember.

Thanks
Dave

radius1x1

Try setting up your throws at 50% for low and 80% high rates for for your maiden. If all goes well; Go to 100% for your high rates.

da Rock

What they mean is often the problem. With many of the instruction sets coming out of China, and not matching the parts you got in the box, and if there is a full moon out.......

What most often is the case when they give a number like 3/8" throw, they print a picture or tell you how to use that 3/8". When they don't, the best bet is to consider the measurement to be from neutral to max deflection in one direction. And measure it at the greatest chord location. THEN..........

If you don't have the experience to look at what results and judge the suitability THEN your best bet is to ask an experienced flyer his opinion and see if he will check out the rest of the airplane. And consider seriously having him take it off the first time. He will most certainly be more apt to have encountered models with both too sensitive throws and too insensitive throws. And won't be overwhelmed by how the plane responds.

If you think you can do it, go ahead. That's one way to learn. But before that maiden flight, look at the throws on other models. You'll probably notice that other than 3D models, most don't have over 30degree deflection one way.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Sorry about the dark photos but there is a storm blowing through and I didn't turn on any lights in the shop, the flash didn't go off either? These are just simple throw meters I make in my spare time. You can buy this type from a number of hobby shops that advertise in magazines. At one point I had the meter that tower sells but I can't recall if it had degrees on it or not? When I set up a new plane I have all my control surfaces centered with the radio turned on then just set one of the meters on the surface and pull up or down to see where the throw is at in degrees. I then start to get as close to my setting as I can without going into the radio, I try to keep the percents as close to 100% on the servo as I can. As soon as I am as close as I can get to the degrees I want mechanically as I can then I go into the radios EPA and do the adjusting. I start out a new plane at 10 degrees up and down on both ailerons and elevator then get as much throw on the rudder as I can get. If it's a trainer then I set the high and low rates at 8 and 12 degrees. I always maiden a plane on high rates myself. My thinking is, if I need more throw on that first flight I don't want to be flipping switches, better to have the throw and not need it then really need it and not have it. I almost always fly on high rates. For 3-D planes I start out with 12 and 18 degrees. Servos work best as close to 100% as you can get them so doing your adjustment by reducing the % in the radio isn't the best way to do it.

StevL

Contrary to most post I set my throws to be *a lot*, on a trainer style plane I would like to see at least an inch up/down on elevator and ailerons, rudder even more throw. Sometimes due to the build I can't get this much, I then take all it will give me.

But… I also set up a lot of expo for the first flight, a trainer style plane about 50%... small 3d electrics & giant scale up to 70%.

I *first fly a lot of planes* around our field and I once got caught having to fly like 95% up elevator to keep a plane level, and I have had to use 60 maybe 70% stick on ailerons before too. So now I have plenty of throw with plenty of expo.

Two things happen after my first flight:

I reduce the throw (or add for 3d) if needed for the individual and adjust the expo accordingly. The worst I’ve had happen with this set up is the plane was very mushy to fly. No problems, just remove some expo after landing, repeat if necessary.

Of course this all revolves around a computer radio

Steve

Carlos Murphy

My Feedback: (72)

I usually set up a new plane with max throws on all surfaces and cut those throws in half with dual-rate and go fly, then adjust.

Any twin you want max throws on rudder all the time for that inevitable "engine-out" situation.

SushiSeeker

Except for the risk of accidentally switching on the high rate, is there another reason you recommend against DR's?

BTW - when I was teaching my son on the BBox, he would use low rates and I would use high - just in case I needed that little extra to keep his spinner out of the dirt.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

To rate or not to rate, that is a good question. I always set up dual rates but I have also had it bite me in the butt. Once before a maiden another pilot came over and was telling/showing one of my students why he set up his rate switches backwards to how I taught him. He was flipping switches while he was showing him. I didn't notice the switches were set on low and I really needed way more elevator then my student had set up in his plane, it got ugly!! Now days if anyone picks up one of my radios for any reason I jump dead in there s@$t with both feet.
I use rates but fly on high, I cut my rates down about 40% for low. When I start to trim my planes I do goofy things like pull full elevator to see what happens. If the plane has too much elevator I try the same thing on low rates. How the plane reacts tells me about how far I want to set things. Other then the one time my radio was fooled with I have never had any trouble with setting rates. I have even set them up as triple rates on one switch, up=high, center=low and down was Oh My God Stupid High just for thos special moods I often get. I never maiden a plane on low rates, I don't want to be fumbling for a switch if a plane needs more control and if I have too much throw I'm the one in control of the sticks. It's just how I was taught to do things and it works for me.[8D]

SushiSeeker

I totally agree.
Nevertheless, about a year ago I was maidening a new pattern ship and set up the throws much like my 3d UCanDo.
Full throttle down the runway, I pulled in way too much elevator, tip stalled, rolled inverted and miraculously managed an inverted climb out. Of course I said that the entire maneuver was planned.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

I wouldn't doubt you at all!!! I myself have planned many such take offs. Some of my planned landings are true wonders!!!

RCFLYERJOINER

Luker737,
I think Iknow what kind of plane you have, If Iguss right it's made by Aeromax??? If so take a look at the Hobbico/Great planes mfg trainers. I have found that most of these china made birds have the same throws as GP birds do...