symdnn

My Feedback: (1)

I have this ARF http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

And I have this engine http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

And I have 5 standard servos, 6ch RX/TX, UBEC, 3300mah 30c 11.1v and 4000mah 40c 11.1v lipos

What else do I need to make it RTF and is there any other advice?

pipercub4

If you don't have a Field box for starting the engine you are going to need one of those.

There is a good one at: http://www.rcsuperstore.com/Hobbico_...p/hcap5105.htm

symdnn

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for that. So you think I have all the parts except the field pack?

ho2zoo

My Feedback: (5)

If this is your first plane you should probably get some help. A Cub is not the best thing to start with.

AB Bob

My Feedback: (20)

Most receivers and servos are only rated up to like 6 volts. I think you'll need a regulator or different battery pack? I'm not familiar with the UBEC's perhaps someone more geared to electrics will follow up.

symdnn

My Feedback: (1)

Yes the UBEC is to reduce the voltage to 5 or 6 volts. the UBEC are used in the electric planes and UBECstands forUniversal Battery Eliminator Circuit

CGRetired

My Feedback: (1)

Besides suggesting you get a basic trainer rather than the cub, I would also suggest that you put that LiPo and the UBEC aside and get a good old standard 4 or 5 cell NiMh pack. Adding complex systems to a simple design, especially for a beginner is asking for trouble. It's just one more thing to try to get working right or to add another point of failure to something that really needs to be simple.

CGr

jester_s1

You didn't mention a transmitter and receiver, so you'll need one of those.

As for advice, don't try to fly it by yourself. Takeoffs require some basic skills and Cubs get tossed around by the wind a lot. They are a pleasure to fly once you have the basic skills down, but a beginner will be frustrated by them.

symdnn

My Feedback: (1)

I forgot to mention that I already own a piper cub .40 electric and a super cub. I am just new to the nitro setup.

symdnn

My Feedback: (1)

I mentioned that I have the Radio and receiver. Please read my older posts.

jeffie8696

If you are still going to use the UBEC make certain it is rated at 3 amps or more. Depending on your setup you could draw more than that if the servos were to stall.
Glow driver, fuel, starter(optional but a good idea). You didnt mention a battery switch which is almost never used in electrics.
Iwould get a glow driver that lets you see if the plug is taking juice, perhaps a field panel with an amp guage, Ifeel it prevents a lot of headaches.
And those lipos are like 3 times bigger than you need. Ihave used 2 cell 850s with much success. And set the UBEC to 5 volts your servos will last longer.

Mr. Canadian

Am I the only confused on why that piper has the same stats as the Great Planes piper cub 40, yet requires a .90- 1.20 4 stroke?

jester_s1

Yes, you did say you had radio gear. Good.

As for setup on nitro, it's important to get the centerline of the tank inline with the fuel inlet on your carb when in flight attitude. Off by 1/2 inch is ok, but more than that will give you trouble on most engines. Round off the edges of your brass tubing so it doesn't cut your lines, and be really gentle when you're putting it all together. On a new engine, check every bolt to be sure they are tight and check your valve clearance before the first run. Then recheck your head bolts and valve clearance after you're done with break in.

Augie11

I have the same question. The aircraft dimensions are the same as the GP 80" Cub yet the plane is termed a '60'. There is no gross weight mentioned though. Still, he should be ok with a Saito .91. I say this because I have a kit built GP 40 Cub with an OS .91 4-stroke. I put in the .91 because it's on floats (the old fashioned built up plywood version) and I fly at 5500-7000 feet and it needs the power to lift off even though it flys at 1/2 throttle. He can get the Saito to 'fit' and just use good throttle management. Still, the '60' designation sounds strange.

symdnn

My Feedback: (1)

Hi everyone.

I think I have everything by now. Here is what I got:

The ARF http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

Saito .91 4 stroke glow engine

6CH RX/TX

5X T-pro SG5010 servos

Feul Tank

Glow plugstarter with charger

manual feul pump

Socket wrench for the glow plug

UBEC 5V/6V as a voltage regulator

3300 mah Lipo 3s 30c 11.1V

Do you guys think I need anything else? and by the way, what is thebest proppeler to use with this setup?

Thanks

Augie11

You might want to think of an electric starter for the engine. On that Saito .91, she should turn a 14x6 prop pretty well.

luker737

My Feedback: (11)

If this plane is going to be a glow plane with a 91 4 stroke you don't need the lipo battery just a 6 or 4.8 volt battery if you are useing 2.4 receiver gofor the 6 volt for the servos and you don't need the voltage regulator.if you use that lipo you will most likely burn up the servos I might alsosay i have that plane in a glow and a electric the glow plane has a 61 K&B engine and has more power the it needs. the electric one has a 1000 watt motor on it with a 13x6 prop and flys like a dream just alittle to fast not scale speed .

symdnn

My Feedback: (1)

Any suggestions on where to buy 6v battery?

jester_s1

www.hangtimes.com. I'm impressed with the value there.

There's nothing "wrong" with using the Lipo and BEC if you already have it. None of us would have recommended it because it's overkill, but it will work fine. If you're all assembled with that, then fly the plane with it and have fun.

jaka

Hi!
Better to get an ordinary NiMH battery 4,8v or 6V at 1800-2700mAh (same weight).
That big Lipo is only adding weight!-Which is no good!

I think the .91 fourstroke is way way to powerful though for the CUB!
A decent .60 four stroke will fly that plane much better!

But if you go the .91 route ...get a 14x6 or 15x4 APC or RAM propeller! Those are the best props available.

luker737

My Feedback: (11)

You can get a 6 volt or a 4.8 of ebay real cheap they are about 1.99 but the shipping is 6.99 but they are good i have 4 or 5 planes with these batterys thay work fine. I would agree with JAKA you would be smarter to use a 60 size engine then that 91.

jester_s1

Not that this hasn't already been covered at least once a week since I've been reading RCU, but it bears repeating: Cheap batteries are a ticking time bomb for your airplane. Even with the best quality ones the battery and switch are the weakest links in your system. Sure, with the cheapies if you get a good one they are fine. But you won't know if you got a good one until you have 50 or more flights on it. You'll know if you got a bad one when your plane develops a mind of its own mid-flight.

And there is nothing wrong with his engine. It's more than he needs and he'll have to pay attention to his throttle, but there's nothing wrong with it as long as he can get the plane to balance with it. Ditto for his battery. Overkill yes, but it will work.

symdnn

My Feedback: (1)

Thank you all for the advises. I will buy a NiMh battery, It makes no reason to increase the weight byusing the lipo beside that I have a cub .40 electric that I am using the lipo with so I will just keep it for that.
Now I am in the process of mounting the engine to start the break-in. I am actually building a mount so I can do the break-in on it before attaching the engineto the plane. does anyone know if I have to install the prop to do the break-in or can I just run the engine without it for now?
I will also have to buy some feul lines. The feul tank came with a three hole rubber cap but I will only need to open two for the air in from the muffler and feul out to the engine can aomeone confirm please? or do I have to use the third hole? and for what?

Sorry guys, newbies can be a headache sometimes :-)

Thanks

jester_s1

Yes, you do have to put a prop on the engine to do the break in. Your manual should say which size is right.
As for the tank, a standard set up is two lines like you're describing, and you put the fuel in by pulling the carburetor line. But most planes with cowls (like Cubs) make that impossible to do, so the third hole is for a fill line that you keep capped otherwise.

scooterinvegas

My Feedback: (1)

Prop is the "fly wheel" it wont run with out it. Plus, how would you start it? (motor turns CCW from the front view.)
You can, but you might want to run a third line to a "fuel dot" so you can re-fuel easier.