Fuel proof glue/epoxy?
The curiosity is killing me. Repost the photo; I would love to see what this thing looks like. The time, effort and likelihood of a leak seems like reason enough to just buy a new plastic tank. Is there some reason why you MUST use your aluminum two piece tank?
The curiosity is killing me. Repost the photo; I would love to see what this thing looks like. The time, effort and likelihood of a leak seems like reason enough to just buy a new plastic tank. Is there some reason why you MUST use your aluminum two piece tank?
The two sides of this tank are milled and then glued together, no visible welds are shown. The seam is overlapping, it is a snug fit even without any glue. Ibasically need some glue or epoxy that is nitro fuel proof. Maybe JB Weld would work?
Clean both surfaces completely free of any oils, add the JB, clamp the tank halves together tight and leave it alone for at least two days.
I've tried several poly and epoxy fuel tank repair sealants (great for gasoline or jet fuel) and they failed in hours when exposed to glow fuel so don't waste you time with that stuff.
Note: ALL epoxies and dopes are not fuel proof but rather fuel resistant, with continuous 100% exposure they will fail eventually. They are fine for splash or spray but not extended immersion such as a tank. Stay away from 5 minute epoxy if it will come into occasional contact spray with glow fuel as most brands of 5 minute epoxy breaks down quickly when exposed.
it's the standard for assembling 2-cycle crankcases, as in bikes and snomobiles, etc. the nitro dragster guys use it for thier engines. it's strong enough to hold cases together without the screws.... so they say. i know nitro will thin it when it's un-cured, but i have never heard of it being effected by nitro when cured.