Dockman

Got my DX5e back from Horizon today and like you guy said they sent me a new RX. In the notes they only blamed the Radio antenna that I had mentioned the outside shield missing. It's funny how they blame the antenna (Which I am not saying was not a problem) but send a new RX! I have the new plane all together with new radio and servo's. Hopefully I will get to fly this week some time? Thanks for all your help on my issues I have learned a lot from you.

I do have a question, how do you kill the motor when you are done flying? I have the radio set to idle good with stick all the way backed off and then can trim it down to try an kill it but that don't always work and I have to stick prop in grond to kill motor.

jetmech05

Dosen't your radio have a throttle cut?...and don't stick the prop in the ground to kill an engine...throw a rag in the motor something
By the way where is Climax Springs? I am from St joe

Dockman

Yes it has a throttle cut just did not know waht it was. However the carb is back all the way off and will still idle. Climax Springs, Mo is in central missouri (Lake of the Ozarks area).

Dockman

Here is a picture of the new plane.

Rodney

Every engine I've seen can be adjusted to stop when the throttle barrel is completely closed. There is usually a throttle stop screw on the carb that limits the low end travel, be sure it is set so that the barrel can be completely closed when the throttle is at low and the throttle trim is at minimum. If the engine will not stop with the throttle barrel closed, you have an air leak somewhere around the needle valve or where the carb enters the crank case.

Dockman

Good points! there is a idle adjustment screw that will be the first thingb I try.

CGRetired

My Feedback: (1)

Just be aware that you could set it up so that the throttle servo wants to move the throttle arm further than it can go. This is a "fine" adjustment so that the servo does not stall and try to pull the linkage any further. This will do two things: 1. It will drain a battery post-haste. 2. It will bring the battery voltage below the operating threshold and could cause it to "reboot" which can ruin your whole day if it happens in the sky.

So, when doing these adjustments, be careful to make sure that the throttle stick on the transmitter is able to move from end to end INCLUDING TRIM and not stall out the servo. As I said, it's a fine adjustment. If you make a change in the carb throttle end stop, then this will affect the throw of the servo and you have to check to make sure it is ok, without binds, before you fly.

Do all this mechanically. Leave the transmitter computer end stops alone. These are the LASS item you want to adjust once you have the mechanical setup correct.

There have been several posts on how this is done. If you want a description on how this mechanical adjustment is done, please ask. Either me or others will gladly fill you in on how we do this.

CGr.

Sport_Pilot

Some people prefer to set the engine up so that the throttle cut doesn't work, then kill the engine by pinching the fuel line till it quits.  That way you won't have to worry about forgetting to run it dry at the end of the day.  I prefer to use the thottle cut and I usually remember to run it dry.

378

My Feedback: (4)

Make sure the throttle barrel is fully closing, and if it is, you have an air leak somewhere. The engine should die when you drop the trim fully.

DX5e isn't a computer radio. Funny how stone-age stuff like non-computerized radios still exists eh?

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

Dockman I do not know what engine you have but the majority of modern engines have three separate screws or needles and they serve different functions.

The first function is an adjustable needle valve to control high speed fuel mixture sometimes called the main needle.

The second is a actual needle similar to and opposite the main or a slotted and adjustable screw often found inside the throttle barrel. Some bleeder type carbs have a screw to the side that plugs a small hole in the front of the carb. These all serve to controll the mid range mixtures using different metering methods.

The third function is an idle stop screw. It serves to adjust the lowest throttle barrel position in the venturi. Normally for RC I teach for setups (this is the most common method) I teach the fellows to make sure this screw or adjustment will allow the barrel to close completely via the throttle lever. Then the idle is adjusted with the throttle trim So you can shut of the engine at any time by rolling the trottle trim full down with the throttle closed Or if you have a modern radio with a idle cutoff you can shut of with that feature if you set it up. Either method is a safety issue and an engine that cannot be shut off needs to be addressed.

These idle stop screws on some engines serve two function as both an idle stop screw and a guide screw which causes the barrel to move in and out as the throttle is open and closed. This serves if you will as an automatic mixture enrichment as the throttle is opened.

One last point there are some engines that do not have a midrange mixture control at all and /or lacks a throttle stop screw. These are usually smaller types such as the current OS LA-10.


John

Dockman

My radio is a Futaba 6J, Carb is a Parry, and motor is a Irvin 61.

Dockman

Well I backed the idle screw off some and it will die now but still takes about 30 seconds. I did get the plane in the air this afternoon or should I say the instructor did. Had to make an adjustment to the elevator other then that she flew great.

378

My Feedback: (4)

My 46AX dies within two or three seconds at the most when I close it's throttle. You need to ensure that the throttle barrel is fully closed, and that you don't have an air leak, as the engine should shut off within two or three seconds, this being the time it takes for the digital trim to slowly mosey it's way to fully off...Instantly if you have analog trims or a shutoff function on your radio.

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

Interesting engine rather rare here in the US as I do not beleve they were ever sold through a distributor here.

Anyway the Perry carb is yet another variation on midrange adjustment that does not come under the the ones I outlined above. The midrange adjustment is done by rotating that round serrated bezel that is at the base of the main needle valve. To lean the mid range mixture that bezel is rotatated toward the little minus symbol. To enrichen the midrange mixture it is rotated toward that plus symbol. There is a moulded in referrance mark on the plastic case that serves as a referance for these adjustment and that center mark on the bezel should be rotated to the referrance mark on the case for intial starting and any adjustment made from there. The adjustments or rotations of the bezel should be very small (smaller than other common midrange systems) usually just one click at a time.

One common area folks get hung up with these carbs if they did not get them new or ordered the wrong ones is the type Perry Carb. For all the various displacement classes The Perrys were/are avaliable in two types one intended for an external Perry Pump and one intended for use with no pump.

The differance is the one intended for use with the pump has a much bigger hole in the venturi. This promote more power however it also requires the use of a pump since that big hole cannot pull fuel anywhere as near effectively as a small hole. Thats just a fact of carburator life.

The identifyers between the two types is the material that round serrated midrange ring is made of. The pumps intended for use with pumps that ring is made of brass. The aluminum ring marks the ones for use without the pumps. See the pictures, if the pump type Perry is used without a pump the engine will never idle or transition properly. Both of these Perry carbs are intended for the same displacement class of engines and have exactly the same size manifold boss (the part that iserts into the crankcase) however you can see the hugh differance in the venturi (the hole)

John

Dockman

The motor was my dad's that he bought back in the mid 90's. I called Parry and told them what I had and this is the carb they said I needed. My carb is the brass ring type so it sounds like I need another carb.

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

I beleve this may be the root of your running problems. My recomendation is to call Perry/Varsane/Conley agine and ask directly if your carb is a pump type or one that will function in its intended engine without a pump.

I do strongly suspect it is a pump type and in such case if you do not want to start playing carburator musical chairs then this is what you need:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDG61&P=ML

It is the less expensive type Perry pump than the Regulating Pump. The Ossilating pump will work well with the pump type Perry carb. The Regulating Perry Pump could also be used except it is more difficult to install requiring a pressure tap in the crankcase of your Two Stroke engine.

The Ossilating pump requires only a fuel line in and one out and must be mounted to either the engine backplate or the engine mount ninety (perpendicular) degrees to the axis of the prop shaft.

It also requires a looping of fueline between the inlet and outlet at the end of the last flight or run. This keeps the pumps sealed with fuel and will not let that magic bouncing ball get stuck the next time you run the engine.

John

Dockman

John can tell me what size the inside of the barrels are on the smaller carb? Mine looks like your picture off the smaller barrel carb and mics .359. I really know very little about all this glow engine stuff. This is what carb Perry recommended for me and nothing was ever mentioned about a pump.

Dockman

I may have the idle screw backed to far allowing the barrel to roll back around and start to open again?

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

OK now I am getting confused, You bought this carb new from Perry to use in the engine? I was under the impression it came that way from when your dad imported it.

I have no converinent way to measure the throat size and that would not be rellavent anyway since I cannot remember wheather or not I pulled these off a K&B 40 or K&B .60 could have been others also there were/are different carbs for different displacement classes and its likely I have not used these carbs for a great many years.

If that carb is original then you need to talk to Perry and You bring it up. This is the third or forth manufacturer for the Perrys (Conley) I have no idea what their current lineup is. ASK the question directly from Conley is the carb you have (describe it and give them that throat diameter) appropriate for your engine to used without a pump.

John

Dockman

John, I am sorry for the confusion. After my first crash with the DX5e I had to buy a new carb because it broke the collar off my origdinal carb. Let me bring you up to date. My dad passed away in 98 and left me a plane. I stored it in my garage until 2009ish. At that time I brought a new radio with recievers (Spektrum DX5e) and asked the guy that helped my dad fly if he would help me. Help me about 3 or 4 times and I was doing very well. He would allow me to fly his plane on buddy cord and would always take me up (what he calls 2 mistakes high). As I got better he would pass the box on my dad's plane after he got it in the air. Most of the time we flew his trianer on the buddy box. He felt I was ok to pass the box (after he got it 2 mistakes high) on my dad's plane and I was ok with that. The first crash I thought was because I had a switch go bad that was 10 + years old. So I buy a new plane and the very first time we fly it it crashes exactly like the first crash. That is when I posted me question "Is it my Radio".

Dockman

By the way John, thank you for all your help. As you can tell you are dealing with a beginner to airplanes. I do have RC boats that are very fast but gas not glow. Boats are easy and plane are more demanding. I can take my boat to the lake and learn on my own. A plane you depend on you instructor 100%. 2 different animals boats and planes are.

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

OK since you just bought the carb they no doubt sold you one for use without the pump. All of us has experianced at some time or other the disheartening event a crash can be.

Probably the most important thing for you to do now is keep working with an experianced mentor. I think it safe to say everyone here is rooting for you and wish to see you acheve your goals.

John