CGRetired

My Feedback: (1)

I never said you HAVE to do it, I said it's the way I do it. And it works fine for me. The way I do it, the golden rod stays stiff from where it exits the fuselage to the control surface. Hey, different strokes, ya know?

ovationdave

My Feedback: (16)

I do the same as Bozarth, always, the only thing different is that I create these little bushings about every 4 inches in a longer run (for tail surfaces and centerally mounted servos).

~Dave

BillinIndiana

Looks like Opinions are about 50/50 here.. Half hating them other half liking them..

CGRetired

My Feedback: (1)

What you have to think about when using Goldenrods is that you really MUST secure the tube in as many hard points as possible. The reason is that the tubes will flex and, in some cases, make the control surface it works with ineffective. Trust me when I say this. It took me and my mentor/instructor a few flights to figure out that flexing was the cause of some really sluggish elevator operation. As I flew faster, the elevator would become less and less effective.

The flex in the tube caused the rod to flex with the "pressure" of faster flight. When pulling on the elevator, it would flex and the elevator would not move as much. The faster I went the worse it got.

Now, with that said, if the tubes are secured properly and well, they provide a very slippery path for the rods to move, and another benefit is that you can put them in without having to worry about a direct path to the elevator and/or rudder as you would with straight wooden dowell type control rods.

As you said, 50/50 love - hate... not sure hate is the right word, but dislike or don't prefer them.

CGr.

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

Bill, what is hard to detect from the images is that the center of the rod at the support, is 1/16 inch closer to the servo than the hole on the servo arm at neutral. This will reduce the amount of strain on the servo as the pushrod deflects when the servo is in motion. The same is true at the control surface end. One of the posters mentioned that there are guys drilling their planes into the ground as a result of the Goldn-Rods. It does not surprise me. An improper installation of any type of pushrod will have the same effect. By the way, those images I posted are close ups of the type of installation I do in my 50cc, 20 pound models. I never had a problem with it. Dan.

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

Bill take another look at All Day Dans picture and I hope he does not mind since his is an excellent example of doing it right and carefully reread Kens explination why it has to be done right since he is absolutely correct.

Now I thought this is for a trainer arf of some sort so looking at that picture I got a question for you and it kinda of an important one too.

How are you gonna get those sticks in there or secure the ni-rod every few inch in your pretty new all covered up Arf?

I gotta feeling the answer in most cases is the folks are not going to start cutting up their pretty new arfs to install the plastic rods and many just do not secure them properly to prevent wet noodle pushrods. Now wet noodle push rods on the rudder of a trainer is not normally a problem but on the elevator expecially on the push its unsafe.

Most Golden rod/ni-rod installations I inspect that are installed in arfs are down right scarry simply because no one wanted to do the surgery.

Wet noodle installations are very easy to detect and you can find them almost any time just walking down the line and giving the elevator a little down push when the radios are on and full up is held.

John

So even with a fifty-fifty split makes no never mind to me, even if I was on the 1% side of a ninety nine-one split I will still avoid plastic push rods for rudder and elevator

acdii

So far only used them on the throttle and choke for my DLE20.  Since I dont need a lot of control on those two hookups, they work great. Everything else I have done though have been solid pushrods using the wire with guides installed every few inches inside the tubes.

The DIG Kadet uses some like the golden rods for the controls, two clear tubes, and a length of 2-56 rod at each end. My only complaint is the rudder sticks. The exit on the fuse is a bit tight, so the rudder doesnt self center, but Im used to it now, I can set the rudder so I can do a flat turn hands off.

BillinIndiana

JohnBuckner, you must have me confused with someone else.. I'm building a Sig kit, the Kadet Mark II.. I Do Not have an ARF that I am trying to upgrade..? Thanks

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

There you go and of course building up from a kit is an entirely different matter. Its difficult to read every thread to know all the details of everyone.

I do suspect most of the new folks reading these threads though are using ARfs, so maybe its a good idea to point out this problem of the plastics rod when used in arfs.

John

[email protected]

My Feedback: (1)

yep just dont use them

sebo

I'm with you. I always learn something in these threads...just my way of doing it....I know your way works ...I've seen others do it your way too.
I'm Polish....I do a lot of things in wierd ways.....you ought to see me put in a light bulb!!!