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More Push Rod ?

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Old 10-23-2012, 07:43 PM
  #1
BillinIndiana
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Default More Push Rod ?

OK, so the Gold-N-Rods have been said to expand ... So could I just use a straight 2-56 rod and just support it ever 6 inches or so for my Elevator and Rudder?
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Old 10-23-2012, 07:52 PM
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Default RE: More Push Rod ?

A straight 2-56 wire that's threaded on one end can give you a very strong and slop free linkage, but only if you run it through a stiff, close fitting tube that you support every 6 inches or so. Truth be told that's the very best linkage you can use on anything under .90 size.
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Old 10-23-2012, 07:56 PM
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BillinIndiana
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Default RE: More Push Rod ?

I'm not sure what to get for tubing? Suggestions?

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Old 10-24-2012, 03:38 AM
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Default RE: More Push Rod ?

Quote:
ORIGINAL: BillinIndiana

OK, so the Gold-N-Rods have been said to expand ... So could I just use a straight 2-56 rod and just support it ever 6 inches or so for my Elevator and Rudder?
Expand? No, flex if not secured properly, just as the 2-56 would. If secured properly, as suggested for the 2-56 rods, they will perform just fine. I use the Goldenrods on just about everything I have, including a 120 size pattern plane.

CGr.
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Old 10-24-2012, 04:07 AM
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Default RE: More Push Rod ?

Off subject for one second.
CG, grandson coming home today, then being deployed on some ship for 5 to 7 months. Back to the post. If I use 256 I run it through a nylon tube then support about every three or four inches. I have a couple of gassers that I have done that way. I really like the pull-pull better and have been doing most of my control surfaces that way now.
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Old 10-24-2012, 05:37 AM
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Default RE: More Push Rod ?

I'm not a fan of plastic rod or similar set-ups. For 90 size and under go back to the old school push rods. 1/4" Hardwood dowel with short threaded rods wrapped and glued on each end. I never had trouble with them in any plane I fly. If weight is an issue substitute carbon fiber tube for the dowel.
Also as suggested use a straight piece of music wire but run it inside a piece of carbon fiber tube. Or get two pieces of carbon fiber tubes ;one that will fit inside the other.
You can also uses 440 rod and carbon fiber tube for 1/4 scale plane push rods.

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Old 10-24-2012, 08:46 AM
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BillinIndiana
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Default RE: More Push Rod ?

When you use the 1/4 wood dowels do you still have to support them every so often along the length of the fuse?
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Old 10-24-2012, 09:52 AM
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Default RE: More Push Rod ?


Quote:
ORIGINAL: BillinIndiana

When you use the 1/4 wood dowels do you still have to support them every so often along the length of the fuse?
No

Ken

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Old 10-24-2012, 10:52 AM
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Default RE: More Push Rod ?

Hi!
That is not a good idea! Such a rod is heavy!!!! It will also vibrate easily which will sooner or later distroy either the servo or the rod or its linkage.

A much better solution (and easier) is to use fishing steel wire (thinnest possible)!
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Old 10-24-2012, 12:18 PM
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Default RE: More Push Rod ?

Jaka,
 I have several planes that use balsa wood rods for the pushrods and those planes are easily 20 years old or more. With the original servos in place as well. The system to use balsa for pushrods has been around for a long time and for many installations it's the easiest and simplest solution and is still used because of that reason.

Ken
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Old 10-24-2012, 12:30 PM
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Default RE: More Push Rod ?

Billinindiana like I stated in one of your other threadsI still use the very reliable wood dowell pushrods with 2-56 wire on each end. But if I choose to use a solid wire pushrod my HS sells a white nylon tube that IIRC is listed as an antenna casing so you can run your antenna wire through your plane. These are perfect for routing a long 2-56 wire through. No bushings on the wire are needed like when using golden rod for a case. You do need to make sure you have a straight run. The wire doesn't like to bend and will bind up if its curved too much. These look almost exactly like the pushrods my GP Stik 40 had installed in it. I have been using these for many years with fine results. And they do need to be braced in the center just like the sullivan rods.

You ask a lot of questions about your new plane and that is fine of course. I sure hope you can get an experienced flyer/builder to look over your plane and help with the first flights. Nothing disappionts you like a first flight crash that could have been avoided with just a good inspection and preflight. Keep asking questions. We are happy to help. I wish you were closer.I wouldhave a look at your plane for you.
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Old 10-24-2012, 01:03 PM
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BillinIndiana
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Default RE: More Push Rod ?

Yeah, I belong to a club so I have people to help me out when I'm at the field.. It's just easier ask questions from my home while I'm actually building. I'm Disabled with bad hips and keep really weird hours, so I'll be out in the garage sometimes 3 or 4 in the morning..! I doubt any of my club members will answer an email at that hour.. I doubt they would appreciate a phone call either...
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Old 10-24-2012, 01:23 PM
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Default RE: More Push Rod ?

Hey Bill ask all the questions you want. Its good to have another flier around when you are working on a plane to bounce ideas off of. We used to sit up all hours of the night building planes and drinking beer. And we still built straight planes. LOL. And until my local radio station got bought out by Clearchannel and stupidlydecided to cancel it,I used to stay up till 4-5 am listening to the Coast to Coast radio show. So you could have called and I would have been up. They really screwed me up when they did that. There is nothing better than being up late listening to stories about UFOs, Bigfoot, Reptoids, 7ft tall aliens, Giant humansand ghost. It was all fun.

I have heard of group builds where two or more people would start on a kit after work and stay up all night. Oneguywould build the wing. Another the fuse and someone else the tail feathers and other parts. One guy told me they did that and by late the next morning they had a new plane to fly.
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Old 10-24-2012, 02:00 PM
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Default RE: More Push Rod ?

Thanks for your permission... Hahaha..  The guys at the club are starting a Build Night.. I'll probably pick up another plane just for that. I can't start going till my daughter's tumbling class is finished though, there's a conflict of times there, but it sounds fun. It'll give me something to do over the winter months and I'll see hands on how others tackle their projects..
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Old 10-24-2012, 02:01 PM
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Default RE: More Push Rod ?

Bill, it seems that you are still unsure for what to do about pushrods as this is another push rod thread that you started. Nothing wrong with that either. But might I suggest, as i think was mentioned in the other thread, is to do exactly what the plans called for using the balsa rods and move on to the next step.
Trying to do a different pushrod setup which would be different than any you have done before as well as different than what the plans ask for is not a good idea and could lead to problems and then you would be asking yourself, why didn't I just follow the plans.
You do not want to look back on this while you stare down at the wreckage that used to be an airplane.
Just friendly advice Bill.

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Old 10-24-2012, 02:12 PM
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BillinIndiana
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Default RE: More Push Rod ?

Oh I'll pick one eventually, I like to hear what others do and why they don't do certain things that others do.. I'm not in any hurry, just researching options and listing the Pros and Cons from others..
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Old 10-24-2012, 04:00 PM
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Default RE: More Push Rod ?

I like steel rods (thick wire) with threads at both ends. Hobby shops typically carry them in 12 inch and 36 inch lengths, and they are inexpensive. Dubro and others market them.

I avoid the plastic push rods. Plastic has a high CTE (coefficient of thermal expansion) - they grow in length as the temperature rises. I found that I had to readjust the trim at the field depending upon the temperature. However, the plastic rods that come with some kits can be re-purposed as sheaths for steel push rods.

Sullivan used to offer a composite push rod that had a low CTE, but they were expensive and don't seem to be available any longer.

A balsa stick with short steel rods attached at both ends works well also. Goldberg used to provide these with some of their kits. A hardwood dowel with steel rods at both ends works well also, but that is relatively heavy.
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Old 10-24-2012, 05:09 PM
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Default RE: More Push Rod ?

Hi Bill

RCUniverse is worldwide, so whatever time you post there's a good chance someone will be around. Some of us may even be sober enough to post a reply, even here downunder.

Terry
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Old 10-25-2012, 04:48 AM
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Default RE: More Push Rod ?

Hi!
RCKen
Yeah! I also use wooden dowels (balsa or birch)with short steel rods at both ends from time to time . But I think he asked about using just using a steel rod , all the way.
And thats no good.



Why is impossible to up-load pictures???? Server error!
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Old 10-25-2012, 06:53 AM
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Default RE: More Push Rod ?

I use pull-pull in most of my planes, especially those where no slop and accuracy are required. Properly installed, pull-pull is stronger, slop free, less weight and lets you install the the servos in the places needed to get the correct CG. In most cases, pull-pull is much better for elevator and rudder control than any push rod.
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Old 10-25-2012, 07:16 AM
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Default RE: More Push Rod ?

The only caveat to using balsa pushrods is to be sure you get a really stiff piece of balsa. The material is so variable that one 1/4 inch piece may do fine while the one next to it in the bin at the hobby shop is too flimsy.
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Old 10-25-2012, 08:42 AM
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Default RE: More Push Rod ?

    Used both Sullivan Gold-n-rods and balsa. I check the trim every flight, and never had a problem w/either. Always want to check trim each flight "just to be sure". Just my opinion.
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Old 10-25-2012, 09:00 AM
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Default RE: More Push Rod ?

I've had a kit or two that had steel rods with plastic sleeving.  I don't remember what kits they were but the sleving makes a very nice antenna tube.
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Old 10-26-2012, 04:09 AM
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Default RE: More Push Rod ?

Dowel rod pushrods are the least expensive. One wire 2-56 threaded one end like what DuBro sells provides what you need for each end of your push rod. When I set mine up I put the pre-epoxied 'Z' bend end on the control surface. Then I 'zero' the servo and the control surface, get the clevis end and dowel epoxied and fit clevis to servo while epoxy cures. The reason I put the clevis end inside the airplane is that it looks 'cleaner' and keeps the clevis end out of the dirt. It is a little more trouble for mechanically trimming your plane but that's something I don't mind.
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Old 10-26-2012, 04:22 AM
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Default RE: More Push Rod ?


Quote:
ORIGINAL: goirish

Off subject for one second.
CG, grandson coming home today, then being deployed on some ship for 5 to 7 months. Back to the post. If I use 256 I run it through a nylon tube then support about every three or four inches. I have a couple of gassers that I have done that way. I really like the pull-pull better and have been doing most of my control surfaces that way now.
Hi Irish. Good stuff!! Do you know what ship and where it is home-ported? We had a Detachment of Marines on the ship I was on for my first four years (Navy, Submarine Tender in Scotland, Charleston, and Guam - same ship.. we got around!!). I was pretty good friends with several of them. We shot together on the ships competitive pistol team.

I have Pull-Pull on three of my planes, and am in the process of "changing the design" on another from rear servos to pull-pull to get the weight out of the rear. But, my Venus II, which is a 120 size pattern plane uses Goldenrods, where the Excelleron 90 uses pull pull for everything back there.. lots of cables running rearward!!!

CGr.
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