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  1. #1

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    How to build Tiger 2 with Titebond III



    Well my new Tiger 2 kit is on the UPS truck to be delivered today. I am just getting back into RC planes after 17 years away. As I have been searching around this site I have discovered that numerous people say to build using wood glue like Titebond or Elmers instead of CA glue. Back when I was building pretty much all I used was CA glue and it was a PITA to try to sand. I plan to build this plane with Titebond (except the areas where 30 min epoxy will be used for strength or fuelproofing). My question on this is how do I best use the Titebond? I used to pin each part down and dab thin CA on each piece. Is this how I use Titebond or do I put it on the end of each piece and then pin in place?
    Thanks in advance for your help and pictures are very welcome


  2. #2

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    RE: How to build Tiger 2 with Titebond III

    For any of the aliphatics like Titebond or Elmers Carpenters glue, you need to keep the parts in place for a couple of hours either with pins, weights or clamps to allow the glue to set up to the point where you can carefully move the assemblies around. If the temperature is reasonably warm and not overly humid, two hours is usually enough time so that I can proceed to the next step.

  3. #3

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    RE: How to build Tiger 2 with Titebond III

    CA is still the best for those intricate wing structures and such simply because you can put it all together like you're talking about and have it right before gluing anything. To use Titebond though you'll have to glue both surfaces of each piece before putting them together. It could be a handy glue for areas that need to be sanded, but I'd stick with CA for the things that you want to lay out completely before gluing.
    No kid, I said break ground and fly into the wind!

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    RE: How to build Tiger 2 with Titebond III

    So would it be better to build the tail sections and wing rib sections with CA and use the Titebond on the other sections of the wing (except joining the wing halves (epoxy) for that)? Then Titebond for the fuse as it is ply I believe.

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    RE: How to build Tiger 2 with Titebond III

    Most of us have several types of glues to use in a build, you are very correct about CA not sanding, it's like trying to sand steel. I still use more CA then any other type of glue but in areas that don't get sanded like wing ribs to LE and TE CA is fine. On any parts like sheeting or when I have to join sheets and it will get sanded then wood glue is a better choice.
    Rodney said it all though, you just need to keep the parts held together longer when using wood glue. During the summer here even TB glue will set up quickly, about 30 minutes is all it takes but to make sure the wood holds together I leave the parts for a couple of hours.
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  6. #6
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    RE: How to build Tiger 2 with Titebond III

    I still build using titebond 2 ..the best way to build with the slow glues is to have multiple tables, and work on more than one thing..

    Also I will often pour a little glue in a lid or something, then use a small stick to dip into the glue, and butter it on to the parts. As always the best fit on the parts makes for the best build. Also I really like to keep some q-tips handy and paint the glue down into the seams,corners. They sort of shred quick so I don't use the same q-tip long.

    Lots of clamps and weights are handy to have , well mandatory actually

  7. #7

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    RE: How to build Tiger 2 with Titebond III

    I started building the horizontal stab last night and have used Titebond for the framework. I will probably use CA for the inside ribs/spars (not sure what those are called anymore). I have to say I am very impressed with the Titebond so far as there is much less mess than CA and it seems just as strong (maybe stronger but I have no idea).

  8. #8

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    RE: How to build Tiger 2 with Titebond III

    Both are stronger than the surrounding wood if the parts fit is good and the gluing is done properly, so there will be no strength difference in the finished product.
    No kid, I said break ground and fly into the wind!

  9. #9

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    RE: How to build Tiger 2 with Titebond III

    I checked the fit first. Then I wiped a decent amount of glue onto the area of one of the two pieces to be glued andstuck the two piecestogether and pinned the pieces in place. It seems very strong this way. I had read that you are supposed to put glue onboth pieces but figuredwithputting both pieces together they would each had contact with the glue. Please let me know if this is incorrectand why so I can change itif I need to.

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    RE: How to build Tiger 2 with Titebond III

    Mostly, you put glue on the mating surfaces, press them together, and pin or clamp. Wipe off any glue that squeezes out of the joint. It doesn't contribute to the joint's strength, and only adds weight. When the glue is dry, you can unpin/unclamp the glued assembly.
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  11. #11

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    RE: How to build Tiger 2 with Titebond III

    IS there any difference between putting the glue on both surfaces and putting it on one surface and then mating the two pieces together?

  12. #12
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    RE: How to build Tiger 2 with Titebond III

    If both pieces are glued you at least KNOW, that once they are fit together everything should be gluing to its best possible result.. It depends a little on exactly what type of things you are gluing together. Once again, if the glue is a bit excessive, the Q-tips make it easy to clean up the overflowing glue in close areas.

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    RE: How to build Tiger 2 with Titebond III

    The only reason to put glue on both surfaces is to insure full contact with both surfaces. I will somtimes use a horsehair brush to paint the glue on both surfaces if they are big and somtimes just squrit out a line with a siringe (most common way) depending on what I am gluing..Titebond III sets up pretty fast ,probably 15 mins you can un pin if you are carfull and move on...Titebond II is a bit faster but not as strong... I usually use Tightbond III and I almost always have it in a syringe to apply..You can buy plastic syringes at the drug store same as the hobby store ones...You can reuse them over and over....When you use the syringe you use way less glue and do a much neater looking job....It saves weight . I also find that with the syringe I can place the glue where I want it much easier, almost as easy as CA
    Ken , Biker BC Cub Brother #6 Ultra Sport Brother # 100 Tiger Club # 7 Pulse Brother # 1 Sig Brother # 58 Top Flight Brother # 9

  14. #14

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    RE: How to build Tiger 2 with Titebond III

    One other thing about Titebond glue if you time your sanding it sands easily...I like to do my first rough sanding within about 1/2 to 1 hr.... Ca glue gets hard as glass almost instantly and is difficult to sand...Its not always necessary to sand so often it dosent matter but somtimes it does...I will use a file on it at times...Another tip I didnt see mentioned is after you have the glue on you can rub the two surfaces lightely together to sort of spread the glue and insure the complete contact..it also helps to squish out any excess so that you can remove it...
    Ken , Biker BC Cub Brother #6 Ultra Sport Brother # 100 Tiger Club # 7 Pulse Brother # 1 Sig Brother # 58 Top Flight Brother # 9

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    RE: How to build Tiger 2 with Titebond III

    As others have mentioned you need several types of glue to achieve the best construction. I use Ambroids (model airplane cement) to join skins of balsa that will need sanding for smooth surfaces. But often use an aliphatic to join skins to wing structures (except where the leading edge meet the skin, then back to the cement). Internal stucture (all balsa) is generally thin CA. Then different epoxies for high stress areas that include hardwood, plywood joints, and fiberglass fuselage. Then finishing resins to glass with or fuel proof in the nose of wood aircraft.

    So many tools to chose from, but no single method does an entire airplane.
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  16. #16

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    RE: How to build Tiger 2 with Titebond III

    High Plains How have you been finding Ambroid working for you latley ? I used to use it all the time.. I love the smell in the shop....I sands great but even when I double glue and give lots of time for it to dry it dosent hold very good at all...I am disapointed with it....I bought 6 tubes and it seems fresh but it just dosent work... I am going to dump the works....
    Ken , Biker BC Cub Brother #6 Ultra Sport Brother # 100 Tiger Club # 7 Pulse Brother # 1 Sig Brother # 58 Top Flight Brother # 9

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    RE: How to build Tiger 2 with Titebond III

    I haven't noticed any change in Ambroid, but it may be a preception issue. Depending of density of the balsa it may take longer to dry. But compared to CA, it takes days (actually an hour or so). The glue I really miss is HobbyPoxy II, but I may try T-88 to see if it has the same strength and flexibility.
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  18. #18

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    RE: How to build Tiger 2 with Titebond III

    What is T- 88 ?
    Ken , Biker BC Cub Brother #6 Ultra Sport Brother # 100 Tiger Club # 7 Pulse Brother # 1 Sig Brother # 58 Top Flight Brother # 9

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    RE: How to build Tiger 2 with Titebond III

    T-88 is made by System Three Resins, and is widely used in building homebuilt airplanes where wooden structures are used, like building ribs (joining spruce and plywood) or in wood fuselages (mostly plywood). Any of the homebuilder supply companies have it like Wicks or Aircraft Spruce.
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  20. #20
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    RE: How to build Tiger 2 with Titebond III

    Epoxy, Titebond and CA on every build I have built.... In all cases.. wood breaks before the joint...
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  21. #21

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    RE: How to build Tiger 2 with Titebond III

    Thanks High Plains , It sounds like I have another glue to add to my collection..
    Ken , Biker BC Cub Brother #6 Ultra Sport Brother # 100 Tiger Club # 7 Pulse Brother # 1 Sig Brother # 58 Top Flight Brother # 9


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