jester_s1

Were they CA hinges? That's the ones made of a fuzzy fabric. If they were, the only way to do them right is to position them properly and then saturate them with glue. Any other method and they probably won't hold. If they were a pinned type hinge, you can use any glue that will cure hard and hold the plastic.

daddyrabbit1234

My Feedback: (14)

The manual said to use thin CA on the hinges. I dry fitted them first to check for correct alignment and gap then I soaked both sides of the hinges and positioned them in wing and let them sit a minute then I soaked both sides of the exposed hinges and slid the aileron on and I had to work super fast to get the gaps set before the CA dried. I was a nervous wreck by the time I got all the hinges glued but I got them done and they look right as far as I can tell. I got everything done except the motor and I'm still waiting on it. After that all I will lack is setting the throws and double checking everything. All the servos and linkages are done and work great. I said before I got a manual with the Cub but it was almost useless. Instructions were very vague with blurry black and white pics that would say something like below is a picture of the wingstrut parts get them on. I was like Jethro and I had to do some ciphering.

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

Hey DR, CA hinges are wonderful and never should there be a need to be a "nervous wreak"

Where you made your mistake was putting Ca on the exposed hinges and trying to insert them after words, I am amazed you got them in successfully after coating them with ca. Any way if you got them in and positioned then do not sweat it.

The proper way is to dry fit your hinge completely fitting the control surface to the wing or stabs. Then leave it assembled then and only then drip in a few drops in the gap on both sides. Use only thin ca never medium or thick.

After you drip all the hinges and it sets a little you can flex the surface but don,t flex while you doing the drips on each hinge.

One trick I like to do is to put two dressmakers pins (thin ones) in each hinge at the half way point on each side and this will keep the hinge from moving to far in on one side as you do your dry assembly.

CA hinges can be a joy to use and they work very well indeed.

John

daddyrabbit1234

My Feedback: (14)

Thanks John, That's what I'll do next time for sure. I consider myself very lucky to get them on and positions right using the method I was using. Can anyone tell me how to post pics here? When I click add image it does nothing. I post pics other places but I cant seem to post on this forum????

jester_s1

Give all of those hinges a good tug to be sure they are stuck. The strength of CA hinges is soaking through of the glue into the wood and hinge at the same time. Doing it your way, you probably didn't get much in the wood. And you can't go back and put more either, so if you find one that isn't bonded well you'll have to cut a new slot or switch to an epoch hinge.

daddyrabbit1234

My Feedback: (14)

All hinges are checked and seem to be very solid.

[email protected]

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i use robart hinges they do hold good i put epoxy in the hinges wont come loose when i crashed my f16 everything came apart the ailerons stab elv where still glued on >>> very nice looking club you got there

daddyrabbit1234

My Feedback: (14)

Here's my p47 Thunderbolt that I've had for a long time and have yet to fly it. I have tinkered with it and gave it some upgrades such as the Spektrum AR8000 receiver with satellite. I think I could fly it but I choose to wait until I'm sure. I think my flying abilities still have a way's to go before I attempt it. In other word's I aint got the balls to pull the trigger yet. The other pic is my 500 class 182 Cessna that I learned on and love. I hate white foam on anything so I painted it to be easier on the eyes.

jester_s1

Which P47 is that? For something that is fairly true to scale, you'll need to be able to do a flying landing which is where you don't just glide it in with the nose high but rather keep the plane just above stall speed and set it down on the main gear. You'll also need to be used to a moderate amount of speed, at least more than you normally get with a trainer.

daddyrabbit1234

My Feedback: (14)

The P47's an FMS 1400MM. I'm hoping to move up through the cub (it being a tail dragger) then eventually on to the P47.

Hawk131

I had a FMS mustang, she was a great plane but very scale in looks and flying, the P-47 is a good warbird trainer, its landing speeds are a little slower than other warbirds.

jester_s1

The Cub will teach you the ground handling skills you need. You'll just need to work on maintaining some speed on landing. A Cub lands best with a big flare and letting that big wing act like a parachute. But a warbird will tip stall if you do that, so the flare must be a lot more subtle.

daddyrabbit1234

My Feedback: (14)

Stepping up into these planes will be an eye opener for sure. My bush wheels came today and I got those on. I also detailed the plastic fake engine a little and got them on. Still waiting on motor etc,etc,etc.

daddyrabbit1234

My Feedback: (14)

I got my parts in today but I've run into trouble with the motor. I mounted the engine mount that came with the plane and it is flat square and has no offset for the motor. I need to get at least a couple of degrees of offset on that motor or I'm gonna be working that right rudder overtime. Should I shim what I have with some spacers or just order a metal adjustable motor mount? Also I need to know how to order a prop spinner? The hub on my prop is 1 1/4 inch. do I order a 1 1/4 inch prop spinner?

jester_s1

Just shim it with washers. One thing you might run into is that if you mounted it to be perfectly centered in the hole of your cowling and then add right thrust, you're going to be pushing the prop shaft over to the right. That may cause it to rub if it's tight to start with. So you may wind up having to fill the holes that your blind nuts are in and move the whole works over to the left a bit. As for spinners, that's all about what looks good on the airplane. Since it's a Cub, the right spinner to look like the real thing is a small aluminum one. Have a look at some pictures of full scale Cubs and you'll find that nearly all have a spinner that's about the same size as the prop is wide.

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

Are you sure there is no right thrust in that firewall? Of course the triangle the way you have positioned it shows no right thrust since it is common for many arfs to slant the firewall. Easy to tell just sit the bottom edge of the firewall on a table with the tail sticking up, is it straight up when you do that or tilted?

John

daddyrabbit1234

My Feedback: (14)

I'll go with the shims and mock fit the cowl to see where I stand on that as far as anything rubbing. Next question::: I have a turnighy plush 60A esc. Will it be best to mount it on the bottom side of the motor mount box right in front of the air scoop? I've seen some put inside the box before but mines a hair to fat to fit there but It'll fit perfect underneath the box.

daddyrabbit1234

My Feedback: (14)

I checked the firewall as you said and It's square. If beginners are buiding these cubs box stock without the right thrust set properly then that may be why I see so many videos of these planes taking off in horrible fashion. If I left the motor as is most of you here could fly it with a lot of fancy finger work. If I flew it as is I'd be plowing up someone a new flower bed. Setting thrust for this plane is going to be even more crucial because of the amount of torque that G60 is going to put on the plane especially on take offs.

Hawk131

Put the ESC anywhere you can, the ideal place to put it is anywhere it gets cooling air.

Hawk131

Agreed on the thrust, start at 2° and go up from there, I had a laser 200 that had 3.5° of thrust, as you said higher torque. You will fond out quick when you throttle up and it will pull to the left, if it pulls to the right there is too much off set.

jester_s1

A Cub should pull a little to the left though when you advance the throttle. If you get straight takeoffs with a Cub without having to use the rudder, your thrust will be too far right for it to fly right when its straight and level. The actual best way to set the thrustline is to go vertical and see what happens. If the plane will track straight vertically, the thrustline is correct. That will usually mean you have a little bit of p factor to contend with when advancing the throttle to take off, when rotating to leave the runway, and when entering a vertical climb or loop.

daddyrabbit1234

My Feedback: (14)

All is together now. Motor is set at 2% and I ended up using a 2 1/4 inch carbon spinner and still had to trim the spinner out 1/8 inch before I could get the prop to fit. It went together perfect and runs smooth as silk. The prop was spot on and needed no balancing. I did make some sandpaper washer to go on each side of the prop to give it some good bite. This motor with the 14x8 prop has some wicked torque. ESC was mounted underneath motor box in front of cowl scoop. Now all I need to do is mount the AR8000 receiver,find my CG,set the throws and recheck every bolt and screw then this puppy will be ready to go I hope. If I missed something that may be a concern let me know. When I get all this done I'm going to runs some test for a couple of days to check the amps,volts,watts and rpm's while swapping a few props around. I'll be checking the esc and motor temps also during these tests.

daddyrabbit1234

My Feedback: (14)

Hi Guys, I need some help wiring a small slide cut off switch on the side of my cub. I was hoping I could just plug it up between my receiver in the throttle slot and esc and that would be it but it didn't work. I may need a different switch as this one only has 2 wires in the plug (red & black). When I plug it up it and turn the switch to on everything works as it should except I get nothing out of the motor. I was wanting this switch as a safety so I could arm it after I got to the flight line. Any ideas???????