MouthFull

update.. so i went with a 1600mah battery, an on off switch with a light so i know the batter level.I bought 15% fuel for the .70 4stroke magnum xl with a 14x6 prop. All I really have left to do is finish with the monokote and then im done

52larry52

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MouthFull, The on/off switch with the green LED will not tell you the condition of the onboard RX battery, it will only tell you that the switch is "on". There are some with 3 LED's, green, amber and red. They give a rough, very rough idea of the battery condition. Best idea for battery condition information mounted in your plane is a "Volt Watch". It's a small (about 1 1/2" x 3/4") LED display with 7 LED's, 4 green, 2 amber, and 1 red LED. This will give you a useful indication of the RX battery status. They run about $12 or so. Mount in inside the cockpit of your Cub so it can be seen by looking in a window. I like to mount them as part of the dashboard on most planes but as long as you can see them that what matters. BTY, I have had a partially framed up Goldberg Anniv. Cub sitting in the back of my shop for about 4 years being ignored. I got it in a large lot buyout from another modeler and other more exciting projects always got in line ahead of it. Well, this week it came to the front of the line and I am completing the build (of course undoing and redoing much of it). Mine will have an O.S. 61 FX 2 stroke in the nose, 2 wings full and clipped (only one at a time), a dural main gear, floats, and I am using a cowl from the current Hanger-9 80" J-3 ARF. This one will take me awhile to get straightened out and completed. Never have "too many Cubs" !

TomCrump

I used this battery monitor, from Electro Dynamics, and modified it to a "scale" appearance. It blends in well, in my Cessna 195.

JohnBuckner

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With some radio systems for example most of the Hitecs now and some of the Futabas there is no need at all for a voltage monitor since they feature real time readout at all times of the aircraft voltage in addition to the tx voltage. And this is real time loading, just wiggle the sticks.

This also eliminates the need for a loaded voltmeter in your flight box, since you only need to turn on the tranny and receiver.

John

52larry52

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The TX will read out the RX voltage while in use !! Wow....amazing , just amazing. And to think this backward old f@^t still flys some 72 MHz planes, actually a lot of them. On a serious note, John do you have one that will do that?

JohnBuckner

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Yes sir I have three of them that have been doing that for I think seven, eight years now Hitecs A9 as well as the A9X have been doing that since their introduction. (anytime when used with the Optima 7 receiver or up.

Also I believe the last of the three Eclipse 7 versions the one without a module also included real time airborn voltage.

It is also included with most of the Jeti radios.

The newer generations of the mid range Futaba when used with a bidirectional widget starting with the 14SG. just picked up my second SG but have not obtained the widget yet. Have been using it with both the S-FHSS and the FASST receivers though.

John

Well I am still using my 1970 Orbit Six does that count as still flying 72 Mhz even though it now functions using 2.4? Heck it still proudly sports its long antenna with yellow and white flags (72.40).

acdii

I have the 14SG as well and just installed the FASSTest RX in a P-47. It supposedly has the telemetry, but haven't gotten that far yet to check it out. My DX8 has telemetry and uses a separate module which I have used and works quite well but is a PITA to get all hooked up, and you have to take your eyes off the plane to see it, like fuel level, speed, rpm, altitude, etc. I found an adapter for my Ipad that will work with it though, so once I get new cables for it, I can put it in a plane. The cables got sheered when my 4*120 lost a wing and tried to dig a hole back to where it was built.

52larry52

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John, Talk about "living (flying) in the past", I guess that's me for sure. In the last 12 months I bought my first 2.4, a Specktrum DX7S, and thought I was with it.....I guess not. Part of the problem is I don't even read the specs on those upper end radios as I reason that I have absolutely no need for 14 channels. The other part is the cost, your Futaba 14GS, that you have 2 of, are $600 TX's. That's out of my price league no matter what they can do. I am quite comfortable "making do" with the older 72 MHz and my DX7S as it fits my needs and budget. I wasn't kidding about not knowing what their telemetry could do. I know my DX7S can do some telemetry things but I am not even using any of it, just flying the 3 planes that I have put on that TX. OK, thanks for the eye opener, I should at least know about that stuff. I know you didn't expect the OP here in the beginners forum to buy a $600 TX so he didn't need to buy a $12 volt watch but it's good for both of us to know what's out there. I feel like Fred Flintstone....Yabba, dabba do.

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Larry Sorry but agine I find the need to continually make excuse for what I spend on my hobby, my pastime and my passion even in just a simple effort to share the fact that yes technology has enabled us to completely eliminate any additional volt meters on board or off just a little bit distressing.. And of course that is why I choose to post when the subject of non real time on board meters came up.

OK First and agine explaining myself, why I choose to use mutiples of my chosen radios is a simple one and has nothing to do with bragging or any othe type of braggadocio. When one may note that on more than just one occasion when I have depended on just one radio for any number of airplanes when taveling to a distant event
that when I did inadvertently damage said radio well the lost money on just travel alone far exceded the cost of just on medium price radio. Oh how on those occasions I wish I had not been so cheap and popped for the second radio.

Yet another reason for multiple radios. I am active with a lot of glider aero towing on both ends of the line and even a little glider piggyback flight. Now you may not believe it but to do as much of either that I wish to do, I end up end up supplying everything including both radios, there you go another good reason at least for me to have multiples of radio.

Now lets go to real time street time prices. Take those three Hitec A9's the first of which I purchase almost ten years ago the bottom line is that radio cost me 350 bucks now the last of those before the change over to the SG's cost less than 300 bucks, does not seem like so much eh. OK the Hitec Eclipse 7 Pro the last of the three Eclipse series did come with the real time flight voltage although that was a sort lived before being retired by the Flash 7 I believe. That Eclipse 7 Pro was less than 200 bucks. I lot of bang for the whatever.

I am a slow typist so am signing off before being timed out and return shortly.

John

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

Hey larry am back now and please don,t take any of this as personal aginst you. That is certainly not the case and you and I have had nothing but the best of a positive posting relationship for quite a while.

On to why I chose to go to the Futaba. Well the answer is quite simple I have chosen to get involved with jets. Real time jets, turbines in other words and guess what even my fresh newbie (that's me) turbine trainer absolutely required at least twelve channels and that was m minimum exceeding my old nines by a good margin. So never say never.

I flew my first successful RC flight in 1959 after two years of trying to get that single channel to work and have been in every technology improvement ever since always thinking who needs more with every new step, Hmm never say never. OH by the way that first airplane from 1959 I still fly a copy of with the original OS engine but I do now with a single channel of a Hitec 2.4.

Agine thanks for listening to my frustrations Larry from your friend John.

52larry52

My Feedback: (1)

John, Different missions require different equipment and different budgets to be successful. Looks like you have a need for 14 channels, jets eh, I'am impressed. I also have many TX's however they are all low to mid-range stuff mostly Futaba and a couple of JR's. They all work well and get the job done for me. I upgraded to a Spektrum 2.4 so I will be able to fly at meets that ban 72 MHz. My "latest and greatest" builds go on the 2.4 and my new everyday flyers still go on one of my 72 MHz Futabas. Again, different missions, different equipment. It works for me with what I fly. The best to you.

MouthFull

Mine is the 3 led set up. any ways i got the magnum xl 70 4 stroke started up today, didnt run to good. tried adjusting it but nothing seemed to help to much i guess its gonna have to be pretty close

JohnBuckner

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Mouthful a problem I have run into with some of the fellows smaller Magnum four strokes is just an excessive prop load (diameter and or pitch). Sometimes the prop recommendations often on forums such as this make work out on other engines but is a bit much for the magnums and can cause running problems.

I don,t know what prop you are using but it may be something to consider.

John

MouthFull

I am using a master 14x6. I am gong to mess with it some today. I didnt realize it had idle and low speed adjustments. I was going crazy yesterday because I was like how can this carb no have low speed adjustments but sure enough there is. I seen a video and this guy said not to use omega fuel on a 4 stroke is this true?

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Mouthful ya youknow I think that a 14/6 on that seventy may be pushing it a little bit. If it were me I think I would try perhaps a 13/6 or if you wanted maybe a 14/5. Using a higher prop load on the little engines can result running problems with resultant over heating and difficulty in setting needles.

Yes you definitely have a midrange needle and it may be a bleeder type not sure do read over the owners manual for starting and needle setting.

I do not use Omega fuel so not sure but is that fuel with no caster in the lubricant mix using only synthetic type? I do prefer fuel that does have a small percentage in the mix but that's just me. I think that your fuel will do no harm, at least I would not hesitate to go ahead and it up.

john

acdii

If that is a Magnum use 18% full Synthetic like Wildcat 2&4. It states it in the manual what oil and percentage to use. I ran a few magnums, a 52 and 91 out of the box and followed the break in procedures to the letter and they both are good running engines. The 91 starts with a slight back flip. I also agree, too much prop for that 70, use a 13 x6 APC, makes a world of difference. I use a 14x8 on a Saito 100 if I want speed, or 15x6 for scale on a 1/5th Cub. The break in prop for a 70 is a 13x6. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXRH3

MouthFull

ill try out a 13x6. Pretty much finished up the monokote tonight. I just have to put the servo in the wing, install the windows and bolt the wing on then its finally done!! Well that is after I balance it lol

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

Excellent Mouthful yes an please don,t use antything more that that 13/6 especially on the first flights, not a great time dealing with engines overheating.

When you balance with that airplane you cannot go wrong agine for first flights by using the quarter chord (25% mac). Using your fingertips is fine or if you like a couple of pencils inserted into holes in a long block with the erasiers up, works well to. Heck I even like some of the comercials ones to the CG machine is a keeper and I even on occasion use the old Sig kit build balancer that includes a prop wheel type balancer.

John

acdii

Best way to balance. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tips...g-rig-how.html

MouthFull

ok well come to find out they sold me the wrong fuel it was for a 2 cycle. The only 13in prop they had was a 13x8 so I ran the 14x6 today. I removed the old fuel and put new stuff in. Started right up then started stalling. I changed the glow plug and it ran great. I still have to fine tune it but I ran 2 tanks (12oz tank) and it seem to run even better after it broke in. When I bought the engine they sold me a f style glow plug, is that a hot plug? they manual calls for a hot plug. I have to balance the prop a bit better because it was vibrating but im going to a different place to get a 13ix6 prop tomorrow.

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

The OS F plug is an outstanding plug absolutely the best for that little seventy. It is the one that use for all my four strokes regardless of brand.

While there are differences in fuel in reality I know of no one who buys a dedicated four stroke fuel anymore. I normally use the same fuel in both two or four stroke. Actually early specific four stroke fuel had far to little oil in it for my stuff arouned 14 percent. You still need to shop your oil percentage and type of oil synthetic, castor or both but four stroke fuel is just not needed..

Agine avoid running and flying with that 14/6 it will cause problems and you do not need that on a maiden flight.

Now if you get stuck with just that 14/6 its a simple matter to clip down to 13/6. There is simple way to do that and accurate as well It involes a piece of paper tapped to the table and two pencils one to serve as an axle. and of course using your prop balancer afterward. I can offer pics if you are interested and I can find them.

John

MouthFull

im just gonna go to another shop and see if they have 13x6. how long should I need to have the glow plug igniter on the glow plug? seems like its a long time like 30sec until it runs by itself

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

Don,t rush the removal of the glow ignitor from a cold engine start, give the engine a change to warm up and 30 seconds is not necessarily a long period.

John

acdii

When in doubt, if you can get it, use Wildcat 2&4 15%. It is pretty much all I use and never ever had an issue with any of my engines. I have had issues running Castor based fuel from SIG. My Saitos just don't like it. The OS runs OK, but you can tell the castor is just too heavy in them. I broke in all my Magnums on Wildcat and used Fox Miracle plugs. They are just as good if not better than the OS F plugs. I also ran some Merlin plugs, but the jury is still out on them.

The Wildcat 2&4 has just the right amount of oil for the Magnum engines, and the fuel has been very consistent over the years I have been using it. It is also a few dollars less than say Cool Power, which has a lower oil content, so try to avoid those for the 4 strokes.

MouthFull

yea acdii I think the oil is very heavy. I guess I am going to try a different fuel when this gallon is done. Any ways I took it out for the first flight and flew into a tree, about 30ft up. There wasn't any wind the whole day. I get it fired up take off and a huge gust of wind so I gave it some throttle and some left aileron which would have avoided the situation but I never reversed the servo for aileron so it flew right into the tree I was trying to avoid. Finally got it out of the tree and thank god it wasn't damaged bad just a fuel line then a piece of wood that supports the gear WHOOPS!!