Thunder Tiger Trainer 40 project
09-30-2014, 06:24 PM
#51
Moderator
The plane likely didn't roll over from torque. It likely rolled over from being out of trim. This is why it's smart to get some instruction; it let's you have piloting and plane setup skills before heading out with your new creation. ;-]
09-30-2014, 06:48 PM
#52
Second ,i have competed in pattern and pylon in the 80s and was invited to compete inthe world nats and they dont invite every one! lmao I know how to trim out a plane and fly one .Thanks for your advice tho. joe
09-30-2014, 07:44 PM
#54
I was a sportman class so i was invited but there were not many in my class and then i had to compete at all the ama pattern events in my state /US years before hand .. The pros back then were invited also to the world nats in Muncie but we knew who most of them were . I have been out of it for a long time but even now i think you have to compete at so many AMA sanction events and get a score rating before competing at the US nats . Anyone can go watch and its not fun with 7 judges watching you fly and a 1000 or so people also. http://centralhobbies.com/instructional/ama_rules.pdf You fly pattern Kurt ?
Last edited by joebahl; 10-01-2014 at 08:25 AM.
10-01-2014, 06:27 PM
#55
Moderator
Sorry Joe, I didn't notice the name on the post. I thought your post about the yellow and red plane was from the thread starter. I'm well aware of your knowledge of the sport and respect it as much as I do anyone's. Good luck getting it to fly like you want it to.
10-02-2014, 01:36 PM
#56
Last edited by joebahl; 10-02-2014 at 01:39 PM.
10-05-2014, 11:16 AM
#57
I am making some progress as I got the motor assembled and put back in the airframe. I have some questions:
1) Is Windex or regular rubbing alcohol safe to use to clean the airframe and wing assembly of the aircraft? It is very dusty from sitting so long.
2) What glow plug (preferably from Tower Hobbies) do you guys recommend for this Thunder Tiger motor? I need to buy a few spares.
3) Can the balsa wood be glued with regular Elmer's wood glue or is there a better/special glue to use?
4) Does nitro fuel have a shelf life? I am asking because I got a gallon of it with the airplane so it's at least 15 years old.
Thanks
1) Is Windex or regular rubbing alcohol safe to use to clean the airframe and wing assembly of the aircraft? It is very dusty from sitting so long.
2) What glow plug (preferably from Tower Hobbies) do you guys recommend for this Thunder Tiger motor? I need to buy a few spares.
3) Can the balsa wood be glued with regular Elmer's wood glue or is there a better/special glue to use?
4) Does nitro fuel have a shelf life? I am asking because I got a gallon of it with the airplane so it's at least 15 years old.
Thanks
Last edited by AllModesR/C; 10-05-2014 at 11:39 AM.
10-05-2014, 11:25 AM
#58
Soap and water for cleaning the plane covering ,I dont know what size glo plug for your motor ,most of my old 40 size motors and bigger took a long plug. Yes i build all of my airplanes with Tight bond carpenters glue and the reason i do is ,have you ever tried to sand CA glue. Yea i would not trust fuel a couple years old . joe
10-05-2014, 01:04 PM
#59
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Don't use Windex it dissolves the glue on some coverings. Washing up liquid at the sort of concentration you would use for dishes worked for me. Rinse off with warm water at home. DO NOT POLISH WITH A SILICONE SPRAY. Nothing will stick again.
For a plug the OS 8 or Enya 3 will work just fine.
Buy some new fuel. and a couple of spare props.
Elmers will work just fine if you can let it set overnight. For field repairs a bottle of thin cyano, I like Zap, some 5 minute epoxy and a roll of parcel tape[ brown is OK but there are other colors]
For a plug the OS 8 or Enya 3 will work just fine.
Buy some new fuel. and a couple of spare props.
Elmers will work just fine if you can let it set overnight. For field repairs a bottle of thin cyano, I like Zap, some 5 minute epoxy and a roll of parcel tape[ brown is OK but there are other colors]
10-05-2014, 01:51 PM
#60
Don't use Windex it dissolves the glue on some coverings. Washing up liquid at the sort of concentration you would use for dishes worked for me. Rinse off with warm water at home. DO NOT POLISH WITH A SILICONE SPRAY. Nothing will stick again.
For a plug the OS 8 or Enya 3 will work just fine.
Buy some new fuel. and a couple of spare props.
Elmers will work just fine if you can let it set overnight. For field repairs a bottle of thin cyano, I like Zap, some 5 minute epoxy and a roll of parcel tape[ brown is OK but there are other colors]
For a plug the OS 8 or Enya 3 will work just fine.
Buy some new fuel. and a couple of spare props.
Elmers will work just fine if you can let it set overnight. For field repairs a bottle of thin cyano, I like Zap, some 5 minute epoxy and a roll of parcel tape[ brown is OK but there are other colors]
Last edited by joebahl; 10-06-2014 at 08:51 AM.
10-11-2014, 06:18 AM
#61
I got the wing covering holes patched and finally charged the radio batteries last night. Today plugged them in and the radio works good as new. Was even trimmed center. The next order of business is gluing the receiver holder in place in the airframe, buying rubber bands for the wing, and hopefully breaking in the motor by next weekend. What kind of fuel do you guys recommend? Hopefully one that is not too expensive. Thanks again for all the help.
10-11-2014, 11:25 AM
#62
I got the wing covering holes patched and finally charged the radio batteries last night. Today plugged them in and the radio works good as new. Was even trimmed center. The next order of business is gluing the receiver holder in place in the airframe, buying rubber bands for the wing, and hopefully breaking in the motor by next weekend. What kind of fuel do you guys recommend? Hopefully one that is not too expensive. Thanks again for all the help.
10-11-2014, 03:30 PM
#63
I gather that plug worked ok if you charged up you battery . As far as your reciever holder , i would most times wrap my recievers in foam with small rubber bands in case of a crash then if i was real fancy zip tie the whole mess down . I use a hot glue gun now to keep wires and things to stay still and it works out well . joe
Last edited by AllModesR/C; 10-12-2014 at 04:46 AM.
10-12-2014, 07:35 AM
#64
Check all the wires and make shure its pluged in good to the power pannel . It worked the last time out flying nitro but that was 3 or 4 years ago . If you dont use them for a long time the fuel might have gummed up in it just from sitting.Try plugging it straight into the +and - on the pannel power pannel where you plug the starter in and see if that fires it up.
Last edited by joebahl; 10-12-2014 at 07:40 AM.
10-12-2014, 09:20 AM
#65
Just for what its worth, I have not been following this thread to closely and suspect your radio system is 72 and that's fine. But I do want to point out if your system is 2.4 cocooning the receiver in a foam blanket is a bad idea. 2.4 receivers and most brands seem to be more sensitive to heat than the old AF,FM and PCM's and wrapping them in all that heat insulation has caused failures.
This is even more important if you live in areas that can easily exceed a hundred degrees. Hitec for example always in the past included providing a foam blanket to wrap their receivers in but when the changeover occurred they immediately dropped that practice and made vague implications to mount receivers in the open air. This happened when another well known brand started having heat problems.
I would suggest a normal mounting system and what I practiced before the changeover is to carefully CA some Velcro to the bottom of the Rx then ca the other part of the Velcro wherever convenient inside the airframe thus allowing full ventilation for the receiver.
John
This is even more important if you live in areas that can easily exceed a hundred degrees. Hitec for example always in the past included providing a foam blanket to wrap their receivers in but when the changeover occurred they immediately dropped that practice and made vague implications to mount receivers in the open air. This happened when another well known brand started having heat problems.
I would suggest a normal mounting system and what I practiced before the changeover is to carefully CA some Velcro to the bottom of the Rx then ca the other part of the Velcro wherever convenient inside the airframe thus allowing full ventilation for the receiver.
John
10-12-2014, 12:13 PM
#66
Check all the wires and make shure its pluged in good to the power pannel . It worked the last time out flying nitro but that was 3 or 4 years ago . If you dont use them for a long time the fuel might have gummed up in it just from sitting.Try plugging it straight into the +and - on the pannel power pannel where you plug the starter in and see if that fires it up.
Just for what its worth, I have not been following this thread to closely and suspect your radio system is 72 and that's fine. But I do want to point out if your system is 2.4 cocooning the receiver in a foam blanket is a bad idea. 2.4 receivers and most brands seem to be more sensitive to heat than the old AF,FM and PCM's and wrapping them in all that heat insulation has caused failures.
This is even more important if you live in areas that can easily exceed a hundred degrees. Hitec for example always in the past included providing a foam blanket to wrap their receivers in but when the changeover occurred they immediately dropped that practice and made vague implications to mount receivers in the open air. This happened when another well known brand started having heat problems.
I would suggest a normal mounting system and what I practiced before the changeover is to carefully CA some Velcro to the bottom of the Rx then ca the other part of the Velcro wherever convenient inside the airframe thus allowing full ventilation for the receiver.
John
This is even more important if you live in areas that can easily exceed a hundred degrees. Hitec for example always in the past included providing a foam blanket to wrap their receivers in but when the changeover occurred they immediately dropped that practice and made vague implications to mount receivers in the open air. This happened when another well known brand started having heat problems.
I would suggest a normal mounting system and what I practiced before the changeover is to carefully CA some Velcro to the bottom of the Rx then ca the other part of the Velcro wherever convenient inside the airframe thus allowing full ventilation for the receiver.
John
Last edited by AllModesR/C; 10-12-2014 at 12:16 PM.
10-12-2014, 12:29 PM
#67
Just for what its worth, I have not been following this thread to closely and suspect your radio system is 72 and that's fine. But I do want to point out if your system is 2.4 cocooning the receiver in a foam blanket is a bad idea. 2.4 receivers and most brands seem to be more sensitive to heat than the old AF,FM and PCM's and wrapping them in all that heat insulation has caused failures.
This is even more important if you live in areas that can easily exceed a hundred degrees. Hitec for example always in the past included providing a foam blanket to wrap their receivers in but when the changeover occurred they immediately dropped that practice and made vague implications to mount receivers in the open air. This happened when another well known brand started having heat problems.
I would suggest a normal mounting system and what I practiced before the changeover is to carefully CA some Velcro to the bottom of the Rx then ca the other part of the Velcro wherever convenient inside the airframe thus allowing full ventilation for the receiver.
John
This is even more important if you live in areas that can easily exceed a hundred degrees. Hitec for example always in the past included providing a foam blanket to wrap their receivers in but when the changeover occurred they immediately dropped that practice and made vague implications to mount receivers in the open air. This happened when another well known brand started having heat problems.
I would suggest a normal mounting system and what I practiced before the changeover is to carefully CA some Velcro to the bottom of the Rx then ca the other part of the Velcro wherever convenient inside the airframe thus allowing full ventilation for the receiver.
John
10-12-2014, 01:52 PM
#68
https://www.modelaircraft.org/clubsearch.aspx
Go here and type in your zip code, and it will list local clubs for you and where you can get help.
Yes suspected your system is 72 and agine that's fine for now however if you are like most you soon will be shopping for a new 2.4 system and that's why I warned you about letting 2.4's breath. Actually the 2.4 systems have proven to be far more durable in crashs than the 72's so the heat thing is not much of a negative and the 2.4's have shown to have far fewer 'mystery crashes' for whatever reasons. Strickly my own observations
John
10-15-2014, 04:11 PM
#71
Originally Posted by [email protected]
would you like to sell this plane?
Does anyone know where I can buy Wildcat fuel? Tower hobbies only sells four gallons of it at a time.
10-16-2014, 07:23 AM
#73
They sell planes here in the for sale section and on RCgroups and watt flyers also . Craigs list is where i see some cheap planes but swap meets all winter like Weaton fair grounds has a couple big ones along with a lot of other club swap meets all winter long . They let everyone in so have fun . joe
10-16-2014, 07:43 AM
#75
They sell planes here in the for sale section and on RCgroups and watt flyers also . Craigs list is where i see some cheap planes but swap meets all winter like Weaton fair grounds has a couple big ones along with a lot of other club swap meets all winter long . They let everyone in so have fun . joe
I was actually at Leasure Hour Hobbies yesterday as work brought me to Joliet again but they don't sell Wildcat fuel. The reason I want that fuel is because the owner's manual for the engine calls for a fuel with 20% oil content, preferrably a castor not synthetic oil, and a 10% nitro content. The fuel that matches these requirements is the Wildcat Premium Extra 10%. Tower Hobbies has it but they only sell it by a four gallon case and I don't need that much fuel sitting around and spoiling during the winter.
Last edited by AllModesR/C; 10-16-2014 at 07:46 AM.