bikerbc

I would try turning your rudder and elevator servos around. I think it might give you more clearance . plus I would get new 2 56 push rods . It comes in 12" lengths and make new ends . Get gid of the ez connectors and go with a simple L bend with a Du-Bro EZ link to hold them on . either that or z bends. If you can get a refund from the hobby shop or a store credit maybe you could pick up the Du-Bro wire bending tool . It makes perfect L and Z bends every time . Look it up on line. There is a video on how to use it . It really helps to make push rod ends . Don't give up . You have a good little plane there. Just make sure its done rite. If you have any questions please ask

AllModesR/C

Will pick up that Du-Bro wire bender, didn't even know such a thing existed. I was trying to make Z bends with pliers before with horrible results.

Also can you guys help me make a shopping list of all the things I need to make this plane right? I will order it from Tower Hobbies and want to get everything together so I won't have to pay for shipping multiple times.

Also keep mind that in order to make the wheel turn right when the rudder turns right the push rods need to be on the same side of the servo arm. That is one of the snags the hobby shop ran into. They connected the rudder and wheel on the opposite ends of the servo arm and when we went to try it the wheel turned left when the rudder turned right! The hobby shop called this plane a "Pandora's Box."

jester_s1

So your hobby shop owner gets his mind blown by a 4 channel glow trainer plane. That's just sad. I'd seriously consider walking in and explaining that some experienced pilots showed you what was wrong with the way your plane was set up and asking him to either do it over correctly for free or refunding your money. If he offers you store credit, take it and spend it on parts and fuel. Hopefully the owner can run a cash register without screwing that up too bad.

To fix the rudder/nose wheel issue, switch the control horn to the other side of the rudder and run your pushrod out to that side. Problem solved. That may also require moving your elevator control horn too.

AllModesR/C

Yes, this whole situation is sad. I have $200 in this plane it is nowhere near being done. I'm back at square one, well the only thing I got working is the throttle. No wonder the guy who sold it to me wanted to get rid of it. Apparently he was also stumped and gave up on it and I was the sucker who bought his problem. Being new to the hobby I really don't have a clue about much of anything which makes things very frustrating. As far as going back into the hobby shop I really don't want to step foot in there again, I'm so pissed off. I will buy all my stuff from Tower from now on. I don't take kindly to people stealing my hard earned money. I did switch the rudder connection to the other side like you said. Now I just need to buy the rods, bending tool, and the L connectors.

Tom Nied

I can't believe a hobby shop did that set up. Which one was it? That is screwy, pure amateurish. Do yourself a favor, on the next plane, buy a new ARF and set it up yourself following the manual, and you'll know it is done correctly. That looks like some high school knucklehead job, and they charged you for it. Pretty sad.

AllModesR/C

Strictly RC in Norridge.

bikerbc

Once you have your wire bending tool and some about two lengths of 2 56 threaded push rods ( it comes in 12" in lengths threaded on both ends ) You will olso need about 4 EZ Du-Bro links . I Dont know if you stil have your old servo horns but if you do I might be tempted to try going back to them . Turn your servos around . Hook your rudder and nose wheel up to what ever side of the servo that will make them both turn the plane in the proper direction when the servo is actuated . Then hook up your elevator . .This is with making new push rods with your new wire bending tool and some push rod stock . It is so easy with the right stuff . You will be amazed .

AllModesR/C

I found this but they are only threaded on one side.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXD867&P=ML

Are these the correct EZ links?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAZC3&P=ML

AllModesR/C

What servo horns should I get? Remember the fuse has limited height and width.....

bikerbc

Those are the rods all right . My old brain just thought that they should be threaded on both ends but thinking about it they are just threaded on the one end . Sorry for the mistake . The horns that the servos came with should do . even the round ones can be cut to the right shape . I think you will need a T for the rudder nose wheel and just a strait one for the Elevator . Is your raidio programable ? That makes it much easier . I hope you realize that I am just best guessing for you . I could do much better hands on as all here on line could . Sometimes its frustrating trying to help with our feelers blindfolded . I am sure most of us could have you in the air in a matter of an hour or so . We all want to see you have a safe plane to fly . You are right about trying to bend the push rod wire with pliers . It dosent come out very well . You are going to feel like a pro when you get your Du-Bro Wire bender .

AllModesR/C

OK thanks BIkerBC. I will order the stuff and hopefully install them next weekend.

jester_s1

You don't need a special tool for making L bends to use with the keepers. I've been doing the hobby 9 years and have set up 14 airplanes using nothing but vise grips and needle nose pliers to make pushrod ends. There's no doubt the special tool makes it easier, but it's not a requirement.

I'm confused about something now. From your pictures, it looks like the plane has a "rod in a tube" type pushrod setup. If you want to keep that, the threaded rods you linked to won't work. If you plan to remove the tubes and convert the plane to a rigid pushrod they are exactly the right thing to get. I'm a fan of the rod in a tube pushrods personally, as long as the tubes are secured properly.

I still wouldn't let this go with the hobby shop, but that's your choice. Shoddy work is never ok, and I would think the shop owner wouldn't want you badmouthing his business. There is nothing at all wrong with walking in and showing him the problem, explaining the fatal flaws in what he did and asking him to do it over. If he flatly refuses, hopefully you paid with a credit card and can dispute the charges. If he does agree to do it over, explain that you will inspect the work thoroughly before leaving this time.

AllModesR/C

It is too late now because I already removed their rods in anticipation of starting over with the L connections. Meaning I could not even show him what was wrong. So which rods do I need if I want to keep the rod-in-tube set up?

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEMG1&P=7


John

Tom Nied

Those rods you should be able to buy at a hobby shop (good luck) individually rather than buying a whole pack of 24 pieces. Also recommend you replace the servo horns/arms https://www.servocity.com/html/standard_horns.html. Make sure the spline count matches. Reverse the throw on the rudder servo and have your rod connection on the other side. That's going to cleanup and leave the elevator pushrod free and clean. What's weird about how the hobby shop did it for you is that whoever did it, made it harder than it needs to be.

AllModesR/C

What is the correct name for this type of plastic coupler that threads into a rod? I need to buy a few to make the connections in back of the plane.



Sorry it is not the best picture but I think you can make out what it is.

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

Clevis (nylon)

John

AllModesR/C

Now that I am waiting for my parts to arrive I figure I'll ask you guys about a problem I have with my 60 trainer. The ailerons seem to have some slack and don't travel enough. I am afraid to fly it because I might not be able to bank the plane. Here is how the ailerons look in the resting position:



Left bank position:






Right bank position: This is the one I'm particularly worried about. The right leading edge barely moves!



It is a single servo setup:



The hobby shop guy told me it is normal for a trainer not to have much surface travel. Is this true?????

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

Is it normal for first timers to show up with excessive throws on all their surfaces (controls)? Yes very common but what you have going on there is not simple throw adjustment.. The problem is agine due to some poor decisions and an awful servo/linkage installation.

Due to the offset servo to avoid the center rib it now will introduce aileron differential almost no matter what you do. In other words one side will never match the other as well a going more in on direction than the opposite direction. One band aid that some have used that will help some but agine not properly fix the problem is to simply angle the servo are at neutral ninety degrees to the pushrods.

Now the right way to fix it is to move that servo over to the center. Cut out that center rib and move it over to where it will operate as intended. And no there is no problem cutting that center rib out and it provides virtually no bending load strength.

Also such a long servo arm is not necessary. Now if the torque rods are excessively loose inside the trailing edge this can cause slop and sometime insufficient throw.


John

Tom Nied

Totally agree with John. I'm flabbergasted how that servo is mounted. Pull that servo and remount it, make it right in the center. You might need to get into that opening with a Dremel to open it up a bit, but join the club, we all have had to do it. Just a standard servo arm is necessary. Also, for a trainer with strip ailerons, you only need 1/2" to 5/8" of travel either way. The more important thing is getting that servo centered, standard arm and making sure you don't have more than 5/8" travel up and down. I'm going to include the Tower 40 Trainer manual so that you see how a typical trainer is set up. http://www.towerhobbies.com/products...1110manual.pdf Take a look at it, it's pretty clear how a typical trainer is set up. It's just whacky what somebody before you did. You've got a fine plane there, be persistent to make it right and you will have a good plane that's plenty fun.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Wow Tom, say what you will about great planes but they sure put out a good set of instructions and make the set up idiot proof. I have used a lot of there kits to teach people to build and the kit instructions are also outstanding. Those instructions should be a sticky and remain on the page. So should the instructions showing how to install two aileron servos in a wing.
Thanks for posting those.

Tom Nied

Yeah, thanks. I just think AllModesR/c would have been better off with just buying a brand new ARF from Tower and just follow the manual and get it right to begin with. He's got a good plane, he just has to fix the problems from the previous owner. It's a heck of a learning experience.

52larry52

My Feedback: (1)

AllModesR/C, Another potential problem limiting the travel of your ailerons might be the lack of clearance where the torque rods exit the wing right below the threaded control horn area. Quite often a little exacto knife work is needed in front of and right behind the torque rod shaft. Make two angle cuts by both rods and pop out the small triangle piece of balsa so the rods don't bottom out on the surrounding balsa wood. Then follow the rest of the previous given advice.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

No kidding!! It amazes me how many people do things like this when there are threads like getting started posted as sticky. The other ones that I find sad are the ones that jump in and buy from a distributor, get burnt then post a gripe on RCU. If you know where the web sites are then why not do a search before you buy? I have a plane getting set up right now I plan on selling. It will be sold at the field as a RTF so if a buyer wants to see it fly he can. I may even have the buddy box set up on it. Once sold all I will do is pull my RX and hand them the plane. It can be inspected all they like.

jester_s1

Will the wing even mount into the fuselage without the servo arm binding with it over there like that?

What amazes me is the number of newbie pilots who jump into this hobby and refuse to listen to anyone with experience, including the company who made their plane and wrote the manual. AllModesR/C is not one of those guys, but whoever he bought his plane from is. I think his hobby shop owner is too. No common sense whatsoever went into the building of that plane, which is probably why the OP was able to buy it for a bargain in the classifieds. But AllModesR/C just about has this thing beat, so I look forward to a successful first flight post from him soon.