Thunder Tiger Trainer 40 project
11-01-2014, 02:02 PM
#101
Joe this may be a silly question but do you know the correct way to mount a spinner? I keep shearing off the studs on them and they keep falling off. I'm on my third one already. Also when I try to turn the engine over with a starter the rubber end of the starter keeps spinning over the spinner "burning" it. Any ideas?
11-01-2014, 02:07 PM
#102
Joe this may be a silly question but do you know the correct way to mount a spinner? I keep shearing off the studs on them and they keep falling off. I'm on my third one already. Also when I try to turn the engine over with a starter the rubber end of the starter keeps spinning over the spinner "burning" it. Any ideas?
Last edited by joebahl; 11-01-2014 at 03:09 PM.
11-01-2014, 06:07 PM
#105
Originally Posted by [email protected]
sell that plane at a swap meet get everything new less head ache
I am having issues finding an instructor as I can only fly on the weekends and the guys at my club are not always available. I had the urge today to try flying it by myself but luckily the spinner issues stopped me. I found a cheap electric for sale for $150 that I am thinking of buying just to learn to fly on, as I do not want to risk this plane. Any ideas?
Last edited by AllModesR/C; 11-01-2014 at 06:20 PM.
11-01-2014, 08:16 PM
#106
Moderator
If the spinner is breaking where the screws go in that hold it together you're overtightening them. Just snug them down until the seam is tight and then stop.
Your starter issue could be an over primed engine, but that's not the only thing. An old starter cone will tend to spin since it doesn't grip as well as a new one does. Trying to start your engine when it's up against the compression is another common cause. Turn the prop backwards until you feel the compression, then hit it with the starter. Also another tip: keep your starter cone clean. Just a little bit of dust is enough to make a ring if the cone slips, and any liquid will cause cause it to slip.
Your starter issue could be an over primed engine, but that's not the only thing. An old starter cone will tend to spin since it doesn't grip as well as a new one does. Trying to start your engine when it's up against the compression is another common cause. Turn the prop backwards until you feel the compression, then hit it with the starter. Also another tip: keep your starter cone clean. Just a little bit of dust is enough to make a ring if the cone slips, and any liquid will cause cause it to slip.
11-02-2014, 04:50 AM
#107
Next thing is technique, It is very important that the axis of the starters shaft is held in line with the axis of the engines shaft. This is often done carelessly and indeed causes problems. The next point of technique is that sufficient pressure aginst the engine must be used and that means its best for someone to hold the airplane and you use two hands on the starter. Holding the airplane by one hand and one handing the starter is often very difficult especially in the case of an engine with a tight choke such as and LA. Yes it can be done if the engine is properly wetted out before spinning the starter but requires good technique.
Now lets talk about plastic spinners, They run anywhere from OK to pathetic and exploding spinners usually at the start but even at other times is not uncommon. The very best plastics are the type with an aluminum back plate that has a capture channel for the plastic but even they are subject to the evil ugly black ring unless you do every thing right, every time.
Now for that evil opinion thing, yes mine: For anyone starting out particularly with glow or gas airplane throw away that pretty spinner that came with the airplane or give it to someone you don't like (no on second thought thats too mean). Spinners, especially plastic spinners are all to often responsible for lost flying days also just because they take up so much time simply replacing a nicked prop.
Instead a much better choice are 'spinner nuts' they allow prop changes in seconds, look far better on any airplane with open fronted cowl cheeks as on most trainers and many sport airplanes. and they fit many starter cones properly. The evil ugly black rings will be a thing of the past. They are typically around nine bucks.
John
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXE158&P=ML
Last edited by JohnBuckner; 11-02-2014 at 05:00 AM.
11-02-2014, 05:44 AM
#108
Yup as Joe and Jester noted above and here are some additional things to avoid the tell tale black rings that you see so often walking down the flight line. Lets look to the starter and its rubber cup. Many old used starters have old hardened rubber and possibly poor cup shapes that does not fit the spinner properly. Also there are new rubber inserts of poor quality (to hard) The best are the silicon rubber inserts that it is easy to push a finger nail into. Cone shape is important that it fits the spinner properly. There are cone shapes that are intended to be used with bare nuts on a crankshaft and these may not always be best for use on spinners or spinner nuts.
Next thing is technique, It is very important that the axis of the starters shaft is held in line with the axis of the engines shaft. This is often done carelessly and indeed causes problems. The next point of technique is that sufficient pressure aginst the engine must be used and that means its best for someone to hold the airplane and you use two hands on the starter. Holding the airplane by one hand and one handing the starter is often very difficult especially in the case of an engine with a tight choke such as and LA. Yes it can be done if the engine is properly wetted out before spinning the starter but requires good technique.
Now lets talk about plastic spinners, They run anywhere from OK to pathetic and exploding spinners usually at the start but even at other times is not uncommon. The very best plastics are the type with an aluminum back plate that has a capture channel for the plastic but even they are subject to the evil ugly black ring unless you do every thing right, every time.
Now for that evil opinion thing, yes mine: For anyone starting out particularly with glow or gas airplane throw away that pretty spinner that came with the airplane or give it to someone you don't like (no on second thought thats too mean). Spinners, especially plastic spinners are all to often responsible for lost flying days also just because they take up so much time simply replacing a nicked prop.
Instead a much better choice are 'spinner nuts' they allow prop changes in seconds, look far better on any airplane with open fronted cowl cheeks as on most trainers and many sport airplanes. and they fit many starter cones properly. The evil ugly black rings will be a thing of the past. They are typically around nine bucks.
John
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXE158&P=ML
Next thing is technique, It is very important that the axis of the starters shaft is held in line with the axis of the engines shaft. This is often done carelessly and indeed causes problems. The next point of technique is that sufficient pressure aginst the engine must be used and that means its best for someone to hold the airplane and you use two hands on the starter. Holding the airplane by one hand and one handing the starter is often very difficult especially in the case of an engine with a tight choke such as and LA. Yes it can be done if the engine is properly wetted out before spinning the starter but requires good technique.
Now lets talk about plastic spinners, They run anywhere from OK to pathetic and exploding spinners usually at the start but even at other times is not uncommon. The very best plastics are the type with an aluminum back plate that has a capture channel for the plastic but even they are subject to the evil ugly black ring unless you do every thing right, every time.
Now for that evil opinion thing, yes mine: For anyone starting out particularly with glow or gas airplane throw away that pretty spinner that came with the airplane or give it to someone you don't like (no on second thought thats too mean). Spinners, especially plastic spinners are all to often responsible for lost flying days also just because they take up so much time simply replacing a nicked prop.
Instead a much better choice are 'spinner nuts' they allow prop changes in seconds, look far better on any airplane with open fronted cowl cheeks as on most trainers and many sport airplanes. and they fit many starter cones properly. The evil ugly black rings will be a thing of the past. They are typically around nine bucks.
John
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXE158&P=ML
11-05-2014, 07:18 PM
#109
I got some goodies in the mail today!. On Saturday I made the mistake of buying a Dubro spinner which has a recessed back plate.. The nose cowl of the plane prevented me from putting the Dubro on. So today I got a SIG spinner and in red like the original along with a spinner nut as per the recommendation of the forum. Now I can't decide if I want to put the spinner on or the nut? Decisions, decisions. LOL
It's a shame beause the Du-Bro is clearly a higher quality spinner with its hex screw and nut hardware. While the SIG has cheap wood screws that just screw straight into the plastic.
It's a shame beause the Du-Bro is clearly a higher quality spinner with its hex screw and nut hardware. While the SIG has cheap wood screws that just screw straight into the plastic.
Last edited by AllModesR/C; 11-05-2014 at 07:25 PM.
11-06-2014, 11:14 AM
#110
On Saturday I made the mistake of buying a Dubro spinner which has a recessed back plate.. The nose cowl of the plane prevented me from putting the Dubro on. So today I got a SIG spinner and in red like the original along with a spinner nut as per the recommendation of the forum. Now I can't decide if I want to put the spinner on or the nut? Decisions, decisions. LOL
[/QUOTE
http://mecoa.com/cb/spinners.htm
Do yourself a favor for now and utilize the spinner nut. You are almost certain to get the black ring (it takes only one mistake in priming and starter use. Yes you discovered the price of having those lock nuts on a back plate and that is the engine/cowl installation must be planned for the dubro type of plastic spinner.
The problem on most of the flat backed plastic spinner is not the sheet metal type of screws most often used but it is deformation of the plastic plate caused by over torqueing those screws which often causes slippage of the back plate.
If you explore the link I provided it shows the metal back plate type of spinner that has a capture ring or slot for the plastic spinners. They are also the single bolt type which is far better than any multiple bolt set up because there can be not deformation of the back plate.
Yes the crankshaft adapter type can be a little more confusing and you need to use appropriate size adapters but they are far better. So do try your plastics since you already have two but you will find the spinner nut far more versatile. And when you are ready for a real spinner do consider a good aluminum type. Top of the heap are the Tru turns but the Dave Browns and some imports are just fine at around half the money. Best of all never agine the ugly plastic burn ring.
John
[/QUOTE
http://mecoa.com/cb/spinners.htm
Do yourself a favor for now and utilize the spinner nut. You are almost certain to get the black ring (it takes only one mistake in priming and starter use. Yes you discovered the price of having those lock nuts on a back plate and that is the engine/cowl installation must be planned for the dubro type of plastic spinner.
The problem on most of the flat backed plastic spinner is not the sheet metal type of screws most often used but it is deformation of the plastic plate caused by over torqueing those screws which often causes slippage of the back plate.
If you explore the link I provided it shows the metal back plate type of spinner that has a capture ring or slot for the plastic spinners. They are also the single bolt type which is far better than any multiple bolt set up because there can be not deformation of the back plate.
Yes the crankshaft adapter type can be a little more confusing and you need to use appropriate size adapters but they are far better. So do try your plastics since you already have two but you will find the spinner nut far more versatile. And when you are ready for a real spinner do consider a good aluminum type. Top of the heap are the Tru turns but the Dave Browns and some imports are just fine at around half the money. Best of all never agine the ugly plastic burn ring.
John
Last edited by JohnBuckner; 11-06-2014 at 11:18 AM.
11-06-2014, 05:24 PM
#112
It makes the 40 seem small:
Last edited by AllModesR/C; 11-06-2014 at 05:30 PM.
11-06-2014, 06:16 PM
#115
Thank you. Now I just have to find a transmitter for it. If anyone knows of any for sale let me know. I would prefer the original Hitec one that came with the plane.
I just looked on ebay and there are several for sale. This one looks to be in the best shape:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HITEC-FOCUS-...item2343f1ceb9
Do you guys think $25 is a good price? I will just need to purchase a 48 mhz crystal for this transmitter and I'll be in business right? Does the crystal need to be a Hitec one or it does not matter?
I just looked on ebay and there are several for sale. This one looks to be in the best shape:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HITEC-FOCUS-...item2343f1ceb9
Do you guys think $25 is a good price? I will just need to purchase a 48 mhz crystal for this transmitter and I'll be in business right? Does the crystal need to be a Hitec one or it does not matter?
Last edited by AllModesR/C; 11-06-2014 at 06:49 PM.
11-06-2014, 08:50 PM
#116
Rather than looking for another Focus a far more advantageous Hitec to look for on the used market would be a Hitec Prism 7X with a synthesized module. These were among Hitec's earliest computer radios and are very cheap on the market. Now unlike the Focus which essentially is a one airplane one transmitter set up the Prism 7x is an extremely versatile FM radio that has strorage for three airplanes and is selectable between the the three airplane with just two button pushs. Not only that it will also function with Futaba FM (PPM) receivers which are also by factory default negative shift receivers but the Prism 7X is also shift selectable so it can function with both Airtronics and JR FM (PPM) positive shift receivers.
Now remember I mentioned that Prism 7X with the synthesized module? Well the synthesized removable module means you ca set two manual knobs and select any frequency on the 72 MHz band. No more chasing around looking for a tranny on such and such frequency. OK now for the best part. If you can find a 7x that means it is a module type radio and that Synth module can be changed out for a Hitec 2.4 module at anytime.
This Radio offer also V tail, elevon and airleron to rudder mixs. Dual rates on not only elevator and aileron but also rudder, and of course Expotentiial on all three axis. All this stuff you will be wanting to explore sooner or latter rest assured.
I still have three of these and still use them, two of which I use around my reck with a side strap setup so the radio is used for controlline flying primarily throttle and some other functions in one case airplane release (stooge release or break release if you will).
These radios have not gone for much in these here parts around thirty bucks and remember if you get the 7x with the synthesized module you won,t have to go looking for crystals.
John
Now remember I mentioned that Prism 7X with the synthesized module? Well the synthesized removable module means you ca set two manual knobs and select any frequency on the 72 MHz band. No more chasing around looking for a tranny on such and such frequency. OK now for the best part. If you can find a 7x that means it is a module type radio and that Synth module can be changed out for a Hitec 2.4 module at anytime.
This Radio offer also V tail, elevon and airleron to rudder mixs. Dual rates on not only elevator and aileron but also rudder, and of course Expotentiial on all three axis. All this stuff you will be wanting to explore sooner or latter rest assured.
I still have three of these and still use them, two of which I use around my reck with a side strap setup so the radio is used for controlline flying primarily throttle and some other functions in one case airplane release (stooge release or break release if you will).
These radios have not gone for much in these here parts around thirty bucks and remember if you get the 7x with the synthesized module you won,t have to go looking for crystals.
John
Last edited by JohnBuckner; 11-06-2014 at 09:05 PM.
11-07-2014, 05:30 AM
#117
Hmmmm You could just buy a new reciever and use your first transmitter and i think they even sell a hitek after market ones with a 48 plug in crystal ,that being said how many old radios and recievers do you want to buy before switching to a 2.4 radio ?I fly all of mine with 2- dxm radios because once i went 2.4 i changed all of mine over and could not get much for my old futaba radios .If you keep on buying old raidios and recievers your not going to get that money back in the long haul. I have some old futaba recievers so let me dig through them and see if ones on 48 or a crystal . joe
Last edited by joebahl; 11-07-2014 at 05:32 AM.
11-07-2014, 07:19 PM
#118
Rather than looking for another Focus a far more advantageous Hitec to look for on the used market would be a Hitec Prism 7X with a synthesized module. These were among Hitec's earliest computer radios and are very cheap on the market. Now unlike the Focus which essentially is a one airplane one transmitter set up the Prism 7x is an extremely versatile FM radio that has strorage for three airplanes and is selectable between the the three airplane with just two button pushs. Not only that it will also function with Futaba FM (PPM) receivers which are also by factory default negative shift receivers but the Prism 7X is also shift selectable so it can function with both Airtronics and JR FM (PPM) positive shift receivers.
Now remember I mentioned that Prism 7X with the synthesized module? Well the synthesized removable module means you ca set two manual knobs and select any frequency on the 72 MHz band. No more chasing around looking for a tranny on such and such frequency. OK now for the best part. If you can find a 7x that means it is a module type radio and that Synth module can be changed out for a Hitec 2.4 module at anytime.
This Radio offer also V tail, elevon and airleron to rudder mixs. Dual rates on not only elevator and aileron but also rudder, and of course Expotentiial on all three axis. All this stuff you will be wanting to explore sooner or latter rest assured.
I still have three of these and still use them, two of which I use around my reck with a side strap setup so the radio is used for controlline flying primarily throttle and some other functions in one case airplane release (stooge release or break release if you will).
These radios have not gone for much in these here parts around thirty bucks and remember if you get the 7x with the synthesized module you won,t have to go looking for crystals.
John
Now remember I mentioned that Prism 7X with the synthesized module? Well the synthesized removable module means you ca set two manual knobs and select any frequency on the 72 MHz band. No more chasing around looking for a tranny on such and such frequency. OK now for the best part. If you can find a 7x that means it is a module type radio and that Synth module can be changed out for a Hitec 2.4 module at anytime.
This Radio offer also V tail, elevon and airleron to rudder mixs. Dual rates on not only elevator and aileron but also rudder, and of course Expotentiial on all three axis. All this stuff you will be wanting to explore sooner or latter rest assured.
I still have three of these and still use them, two of which I use around my reck with a side strap setup so the radio is used for controlline flying primarily throttle and some other functions in one case airplane release (stooge release or break release if you will).
These radios have not gone for much in these here parts around thirty bucks and remember if you get the 7x with the synthesized module you won,t have to go looking for crystals.
John
Hmmmm You could just buy a new reciever and use your first transmitter and i think they even sell a hitek after market ones with a 48 plug in crystal ,that being said how many old radios and recievers do you want to buy before switching to a 2.4 radio ?I fly all of mine with 2- dxm radios because once i went 2.4 i changed all of mine over and could not get much for my old futaba radios .If you keep on buying old raidios and recievers your not going to get that money back in the long haul. I have some old futaba recievers so let me dig through them and see if ones on 48 or a crystal . joe
Last edited by AllModesR/C; 11-08-2014 at 07:26 AM.
11-08-2014, 07:39 PM
#119
You guys want a laugh? I was surfing ebay for transmitters and found this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/201192959531...torefresh=true
It's a Hitec Focus 4 and he is asking $70 + $16 shipping for it. LOL Some of these ebay people think they are sitting on a gold mine.
I am still no closer to finding a replacement transmitter for the 60 plane.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/201192959531...torefresh=true
It's a Hitec Focus 4 and he is asking $70 + $16 shipping for it. LOL Some of these ebay people think they are sitting on a gold mine.
I am still no closer to finding a replacement transmitter for the 60 plane.
Last edited by AllModesR/C; 11-08-2014 at 07:42 PM.
11-10-2014, 12:00 PM
#120
Yes indeed as the depression deepens places like Ebay become endemic with desperately infated prices. And that is pretty through out that site. No place I would be looking for bargains. Actually places like right here on RCU it a little better but the sampling is much smaller of course. Sites like Craigs list may also be a bit better and possible to shop in your local region.
But, Ok here goes that evil opinion thing agine, yes mine
I believe your absolute best finds and buys will be local and the best way to source that is by networking your local club(s) . Who you really want to source are the fellows who have lots of that stuff but really won,t be bothered by running and add for a ten dollar item like that Focus Four. Network locally and there are always sometimes older and younger who are leaving the hobby/sport and never bother to run adds. The are there but ya gotta go to those clubs and network.
John
But, Ok here goes that evil opinion thing agine, yes mine
I believe your absolute best finds and buys will be local and the best way to source that is by networking your local club(s) . Who you really want to source are the fellows who have lots of that stuff but really won,t be bothered by running and add for a ten dollar item like that Focus Four. Network locally and there are always sometimes older and younger who are leaving the hobby/sport and never bother to run adds. The are there but ya gotta go to those clubs and network. John
11-11-2014, 06:15 PM
#121
Yes indeed as the depression deepens places like Ebay become endemic with desperately infated prices. And that is pretty through out that site. No place I would be looking for bargains. Actually places like right here on RCU it a little better but the sampling is much smaller of course. Sites like Craigs list may also be a bit better and possible to shop in your local region.
But, Ok here goes that evil opinion thing agine, yes mine I believe your absolute best finds and buys will be local and the best way to source that is by networking your local club(s) . Who you really want to source are the fellows who have lots of that stuff but really won,t be bothered by running and add for a ten dollar item like that Focus Four. Network locally and there are always sometimes older and younger who are leaving the hobby/sport and never bother to run adds. The are there but ya gotta go to those clubs and network.
John
But, Ok here goes that evil opinion thing agine, yes mine
I believe your absolute best finds and buys will be local and the best way to source that is by networking your local club(s) . Who you really want to source are the fellows who have lots of that stuff but really won,t be bothered by running and add for a ten dollar item like that Focus Four. Network locally and there are always sometimes older and younger who are leaving the hobby/sport and never bother to run adds. The are there but ya gotta go to those clubs and network. John
11-12-2014, 09:53 AM
#122
Moderator
Don't spend money on old radios. If you find one, it'll likely have an old battery in it which will also have to be replaced. So your $30 bagain becomes a $60 radio, which then can only be used with one of your planes so you wind up with 2 or 3 $60 radios. It's so much wiser to invest in a new 2.4ghz computerized radio so you don't have to buy something else every time you add a plane and you'll get all the advantages of the last 10 years of radio development.
11-12-2014, 11:37 AM
#123
My Feedback: (-1)
I still have my old Hitec 7 with the dial a crash module, it's a pretty good radio and can be converted to 2.4 with a new module. I changed over my Futaba 9-C with a new hitec 2.4 module but I got the module on a special deal for $20.00 a few years back. I tend to agree with Jester though and wouldn't be buying old radios, it's not money well spent when you can buy a nice new radio on 2.4 and it will come with a RX. Pull up Aloft hobbies and see what they have to offer. I just bought several of there 2.4 8 channel RXs and they are less then half the price of the hitec receivers and work very well.
The only reason I have hung onto my old hitec radio is for a back up. To give you an idea of how the prices have gone down on old radios on 72, the dial a crash cost me almost $100.00 when new.
I didn't bother using it often in my Futaba, yes, they work on both Futaba and Hitec. I just stuck with my Ch 15 module and bought new ch 15 crystals for all my other RXs.
Pull up Aloft and look at there radios. Why buy old and waste your money.
The only reason I have hung onto my old hitec radio is for a back up. To give you an idea of how the prices have gone down on old radios on 72, the dial a crash cost me almost $100.00 when new.
I didn't bother using it often in my Futaba, yes, they work on both Futaba and Hitec. I just stuck with my Ch 15 module and bought new ch 15 crystals for all my other RXs.
Pull up Aloft and look at there radios. Why buy old and waste your money.
11-13-2014, 08:53 AM
#125
Moderator
There are two concerns: The first is whether or not you need to be able to connect to a buddy box. If you do, then you limited to the brands that your instructors are set up on or either you'll need to budget for your own buddy box when you buy your radio. So if that's the case, find out what brand you need to stick to and consider your options.
If compatibility with other people's equipment is not a concern, I'm going to suggest the Graupner radios. They are fairly new to the 2.4ghz radio scene, but the company has been around for a long time with an excellent reputation. Their $159 6 channel radio is head and shoulders above everything else in the market currently in terms of features. Of course, you could pick anybody's 6 channel computerized radio and do just fine with it too. Spektrum is the only company out of the whole bunch that has had ongoing reliability issues, but then again they have so many radios in use that you're bound to hear of one messing up from time to time.
If compatibility with other people's equipment is not a concern, I'm going to suggest the Graupner radios. They are fairly new to the 2.4ghz radio scene, but the company has been around for a long time with an excellent reputation. Their $159 6 channel radio is head and shoulders above everything else in the market currently in terms of features. Of course, you could pick anybody's 6 channel computerized radio and do just fine with it too. Spektrum is the only company out of the whole bunch that has had ongoing reliability issues, but then again they have so many radios in use that you're bound to hear of one messing up from time to time.
