skylark-flier

Geez, guys - I must be a bit behind all y'all. My '67 Impala fastback (in showroom, waxed & full gas tank - get that deal today) cost $2994.95, and my '72 Dodge Colt was only $2336.95 a few years later. Those are the numbers from my receipts (yeah, still got 'em). I remember my dad complaining that his new 1959 Dodge Coronet cost nearly $3000 - he really wasn't happy about paying "so much" for a new car.

I wonder what one of those would be going for today...

ARUP

..

rcnut42

My Feedback: (28)

Posted thread or two some time ago that I would post a picture of me with my first big built after learning to built with Jetco, Comet, and Guillow kits...here's the picture. (Little background, look at my earlier postings)...here's the picture of me with Sinbad the Sailer, a Berkeley kit designed by Henry Struck, at Marine Park, Brooklyn, NY

donnyman

COOL thats what I'm talking about! pic's of the good times ......................I got the plans for that bird an several others stuck somewhere.
The white stripe on your shirt ,is that for the school street crossing guard or just a design? I am not too familiar with marine park for one reason or another it just maybe my memory but I know of it.

THANKS..........DONNY

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

rcnuy42

Nice Sinbad, and yea I built a few of those also, we had a nice bluff that looked out over a big field with just a bit of left on the rudder trim tab some times we could catch a thermal when the wind was just right.

The last dope that I used was about 10 years back none of the LHS were caring any brand but 1 oz bottles , so I ordered it from Randolph but the shipping turned out to be to ware most of the $$$ went


Cheers Bob T

donnyman

That crazing problem fired my memory banks I remember crazing being caused by the inflexability of the dope and could be ovecome with a drop or two of castor oil being mix in........
I used nitrate dope quite recently under butyrate it is my standard painting method never a problem - but never put nitrate on butyrate, guaranteed disaster. nitrate isn't fuel proof either.

HighPlains

My Feedback: (1)

Always listen to the control line guys when it comes to dope finishes. Here is a good one that goes set by step:

http://www.rsmdistribution.com/artic...hingmethod.pdf

note three sources of dope, and where to get pure talc. Also the clear coat is important if you burn a lot of nitro fuels. On the old Formula One racers, we were using 65% nitro fuels that would be very tough on paint, but the clear protected the finish.

donnyman

Greybeard 1

I was relieved to see I am not the only one with the ....my camera eats the batteries problem. I have a fujifilm finepix s1000 it is a fantastic camera, more than I need, BUT...it consumes batteries so bad I will not leave them in the camera overnight and wont put then in until I intend to use it. .................. but the pictures and videos are for me..... fantastic.

donnyman

Way to go!....I will be using the technique very soon ..................Just what I been looking for!

donnyman

Heck $3000 would barely get your car a decent paint finish now days!

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

If you are going to use dope the above is the best way to go, but a drop or of castor oil will mix with both dope bases, been there and never had a problem with checking/cracking.
But I have mostly switched to water base paints (not latex) for the basic colors system three sample have been large enough for me or for warbird colors nelsons paints or Klas-coat and the are fuel and gas proof. A bit of triva, with the test samples I have made the water base paints are within .05 grams in weight all sample size 4" X 4" with and without fabric

Cheers Bob T

donnyman

Hoss fly................ that needle valve technique is right on the money, I can't remember the number of times I have used it. still do! proper needle valve installation is the answer to the go no go problem. can't speak to any specific brand name needle but the position of the bleed hole is paramount.

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

I think you can just eliminate the nitrate all together, and just use Butyrate. I forgot why the nitrate was used. Maybe it filled quicker. I am sure someone will remind here. I have heard with adding talc to dope, that you are supposed to mix it into the thinner, and then add it to the dope. I have not done that in years though, so again, my memory may be off a bit. Probably from using too much dope!

jsp38l

10 cent Guillows gliders 1954, cox control line 1960, first r/c Citabria 1971, (rolled on take off back into ground,) next Fledging(also crashed first flight, radio problems. Been flying ever since, still crashing. Good thing I like building and repairing.

hairy46

My Feedback: (1)

Can you be over qualified on the age?

donnyman

Niether over or under!

rcnut42

My Feedback: (28)

Donny,

Marine Park is at mid-east end of Brooklyn. Kings Plaza is approximately a mile or less to the north. Shirt desgin. Yes, it looks like a patrol sash and it would have been darn uncomfortable if I had to wear it. Heh...Right now, I'm building three airplanes---not all the same itme--just done the FunCub and will build the following: Adrain Page Cub--smaller version for flying in parks and school yards. It'll take me a week or so then will start building Venture 60 with electrics and then a slow build--Focke Wulf TA154H 1/6 scale from Dave Andersen plans. First time I'm doing four --actually five airplanes as I just finished Multiplex Gemini.

Greybeard1

Unfortunately, that won't work with the Fox RC engines, They have their own carbs, unlike any other, can be finicky, and only their own needle valves will work. But I do remember buying and replacing needle assemblies with Perfect or Pylon brand, a more generic assembly that would work with almost anything. But that was in my ukie days.

Rich.

braddock VC

70 this year and just found this thread. Cut my teeth back in the early 50s on keilkraft rubber series scale, built the fairey gannet , then the spit then fell in love with the FW 190, started control line in 56 keikraft and veron kits and then bought a KK junior 60 used my only engine, an ED Racer, 2.46 cc (.15 cu.ins) Dad was a schoolmaster and one of his colleagues built a radio control set galloping ghost I think, can't remember if it worked or not.
Had a long lay off when I joined the merchant navy but came back into the hobby when my first son was born in '75, with r/c slopers then moved on from there.
Never been that hot a builder or flier but I just love the game, got me another junior 60 now and it flies just great. I love the old timer models and have 5 of them plus half a dozen r/c sportsters. Just retired last August and looking forward to a few productive years destroying balsa wood....

popargr

anyone remember a stunt plane called RUFFY by Sterling

HighPlains

My Feedback: (1)

Ruffy, here you go, it's still being kitted. Look under classic legal control Line kits.

http://www.rsmdistribution.com/index-2.htm

donnyman

You bet I do! Puchased the kit in champaign urbana while stationed at Chanute A.F.B. Finished it and left it in Long Island N.Y. when I transfered to Georgia. never got the chance to fly it and eventually gave it away. But I now have the full size plans and intend to buld another. I think it is one good looking model!

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

Interesting, we have a new local hobby store that opened a couple of weeks ago. There was some talk in this thread about the plastic Cox airplanes that did not fly. Well this new store had a wall of nothing but small electric ready to fly planes, Flyzone etc. and that was it. I guess the difference now is that those things actually fly. I was looking at that wall, and thinking it should be full of kits. Or it would have been 20 years ago.
They had good prices on hardware and props and such though, so I will try to support them. They only had 1 engine! 3 radios I think. Glow fuel is just crazy expensive now. $18 a gallon for 10%.

Hossfly

Right On Greybeard as for any RC engine with a carb. I forgot to be specific that I was talking about CL and FF engines. Carb engines are a different ball game as most carbs work under a different theme as compared to the CL/FF engine venturi tube. I still like CL and still have some and still do some, plus thinking to do more.
Thanks to you guys that bring in the Talcum Powder as filler. You are right as I did use some of the baby powder way back and that will not allow dope finish to last for any real time period of time
( Back then most models never lasted long enough to worry about it ) I learned that way way back, but about to have a 79th birthday, Feb. 19, and things can be certainly different.

HoundDog

My Feedback: (49)

donnyman; I was there Chanute AFB from Nov 13 '64 to May 7 or 8 '65 in the 3349th Training Squadron GAM77A - AGM28B Hound Dog missile school. Got an article 15 from SSgt Peters for failure to prepare or some thing like that.
One Sunday night about 9pm Ssgt Peters made a tour of the Barracks. Stop in my room and first thing out of his mouth was "Airman Flanagan what's that" A Model airplane sir ... a JU-87 German Stuka dive boomer sir "NO that stuff on the table" OH That's airplane dope sir ... "Is that Flammable? so I pick up the bottle and sure enough it says FLAMMABLE Keep away from fire or flame. Get it out of here besides it lights out in 15" Yes Sir next morning at 0530 stand must before chow SSgt Peters says "Airman Flanagan did U get rid of that DOPE last night ... No Sir U said it was lights out. See me in my office after Chow before U go to school. Hens the Article 15 .... Never will for get that man Nor SSgt. Kelly T.I. at Lack Land AFB in 3303 thirty three oh third BMTS the thundering third.
Now U may wonder what ever happened to the Stuka ... Flew it on the parade ground with a FOX 36X ... Gave it away the Stuka to a guy in a class be hind me cause there was no room left in Norman Rousch's Ford with 6 of us and duffels. but the FOX 36X is still in the basement. In fact that's what got me back into flying when My 9 year old son found it and freed up the FOX. another long story in it's self.