old timers look here must be 50+ years only
#1402
#1405
Construction though is a bit weird and weak, uses 3/8 inch thick profile fuselage front splice jointed to the 3/8 inch thick balsa profile midway of wing. Wing is built with fuse in an odd manner leaving the trailing edge butted up against the fuse back instead of penetrating or passing through, like the rest of the ukies. I'll need to procure some 3/8 inch balsa sheet and fuselage standard w/o heavier oak front, regular engine beams and 1/16 inch ply veneered nose to wing. That's the only show stopper for now.
Berkeley has an old M.A.N. ad that says one could build in 42 minutes. Given the quality of their kit wood and die cutting, I find that a little hard to believe. But then, their kits were reasonably cheap compared with others, so I guess one got what they paid for.
#1406
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Hudson Valley. New York. USA
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Sticking with dope and fabric
I'm interested in continuing model building using dope and fabric (several choices to choose from).
To some extent with iron-on coverings you are limited in color - with dope, you can mix a complete spectrum of colors.
While looking around I found a reference to nitrocellulose lacquer that is used for guitars - I believe this is dope.
However, with Sig or Brodak dopes being about the same price, I am not compelled to try it.
To some extent with iron-on coverings you are limited in color - with dope, you can mix a complete spectrum of colors.
While looking around I found a reference to nitrocellulose lacquer that is used for guitars - I believe this is dope.
However, with Sig or Brodak dopes being about the same price, I am not compelled to try it.
#1410
On the Left Side Menu, click Building Materials & Equipment --> Paint --> Dope.
#1411
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
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First hobby experance for me was the "Cox PT Trainer", a 0.49 glow plug engine trainer. The wings and engine were held on/in with rubber bands. Moved up to balsa planes from there, and I was hooked.
#1412
My Feedback: (4)
I don't know for sure. I think that the Sig dope might be nitrate with fuel proffer added. It was that Testors was Butyrate , Pactria was nitrate with fuel proffer so they were not compatible.
OK I messed up Sig dose say it is butyrate.
OK I messed up Sig dose say it is butyrate.
Last edited by Joe Fisher; 04-09-2015 at 04:10 PM.
#1414
My Feedback: (4)
Yea cheep. I just bought dope to cover my full size J3 almost $3000.oo + $285 freight. In 1980 I covered it and it was less than $1000.oo and Randolph paid the freight. The Funk in my avitar I rebuilt in 2000 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=StsmTPt5BQw
#1415
I'm interested in continuing model building using dope and fabric (several choices to choose from).
To some extent with iron-on coverings you are limited in color - with dope, you can mix a complete spectrum of colors.
While looking around I found a reference to nitrocellulose lacquer that is used for guitars - I believe this is dope.
However, with Sig or Brodak dopes being about the same price, I am not compelled to try it.
To some extent with iron-on coverings you are limited in color - with dope, you can mix a complete spectrum of colors.
While looking around I found a reference to nitrocellulose lacquer that is used for guitars - I believe this is dope.
However, with Sig or Brodak dopes being about the same price, I am not compelled to try it.
Someone else mentioned nitrate dope on the SIG site. Both SIG & Brodak sell nitrate AND butyrate dopes. NEVER, NEVER, NEVER try to put nitrate dope over butyrate - you'll hate yourself for a long long time. Nitrate dope (always clear) is used because of its very high shrink rate - it will tighten silk, silkspan, koverall, whatever like nothing you've ever seen. However, in my experience, more than just one coat will usually have a tendency to tighten so much it becomes fragile and will tear rather easily. The few planes that I've used nitrate dope on got one coat of nitrate, all the rest of the coats are butyrate.
#1416
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Hudson Valley. New York. USA
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Lots of instruction on youtube, for instance: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F_D2zqXzcfw
You iron it on to the underlying surfaces with one of these:
Last edited by BrightGarden; 04-09-2015 at 07:21 PM.
#1417
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Hudson Valley. New York. USA
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Yea cheep. I just bought dope to cover my full size J3 almost $3000.oo + $285 freight. In 1980 I covered it and it was less than $1000.oo and Randolph paid the freight. The Funk in my avitar I rebuilt in 2000 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=StsmTPt5BQw
#1418
#1419
[QUOTE=HoundDog;12019328]Rich try this
https://www.google.com/search?q=ster...0QsAQ&dpr=1.25
...QUOTE]
Thanks for the link. A good resource for both plans and kits.
Sincerely, Richard
https://www.google.com/search?q=ster...0QsAQ&dpr=1.25
...QUOTE]
Thanks for the link. A good resource for both plans and kits.
Sincerely, Richard
#1420
My Feedback: (6)
I found this over at the other site:
It depends on the exact formulation, but most dopes are more flexible designed with use on a flexible material, lacquer usual inst.( this lack of flexibility will not be cured by adding a plasticizers to it, its a smaller size molecule normally in the polymer base making it more brittle)
Here is the link: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=518903
It depends on the exact formulation, but most dopes are more flexible designed with use on a flexible material, lacquer usual inst.( this lack of flexibility will not be cured by adding a plasticizers to it, its a smaller size molecule normally in the polymer base making it more brittle)
Here is the link: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=518903
#1421
Thread Starter
Joe Fisher
The video reminded me of my highschool days aviation classes, I had to build from scratch a wing section, my brother had one so I added to his, Loved it!
I believe some of not haveing access to the dopes and such is the results of new EPA requirements the plasticizers used were band, Monokote took a hit, I used some that would not work at all no stretch or bonding that lasted. I think it has improved but I haven't purchased any new stuff since.
It appears we will all have to buckle down and find new ways to continue building and try to get our protective agencies from overreacting they seem to be killng our material manuf. companies.
Inflation isn't helping either. though I must say the lower gas prices have me smiling big time!
The last covering material I used was coverite And I am not sure if it is still sold, I get a lot of what I need from swapmeets so I have a small stockpile of goodies. coverite is a bit heavier than some other coverings but I build in the midsize and larger scale so weight isn't a big concern.
Meanwhile you guys keep up with info I am enjoying your post!
DONNY
The video reminded me of my highschool days aviation classes, I had to build from scratch a wing section, my brother had one so I added to his, Loved it!
I believe some of not haveing access to the dopes and such is the results of new EPA requirements the plasticizers used were band, Monokote took a hit, I used some that would not work at all no stretch or bonding that lasted. I think it has improved but I haven't purchased any new stuff since.
It appears we will all have to buckle down and find new ways to continue building and try to get our protective agencies from overreacting they seem to be killng our material manuf. companies.
Inflation isn't helping either. though I must say the lower gas prices have me smiling big time!
The last covering material I used was coverite And I am not sure if it is still sold, I get a lot of what I need from swapmeets so I have a small stockpile of goodies. coverite is a bit heavier than some other coverings but I build in the midsize and larger scale so weight isn't a big concern.
Meanwhile you guys keep up with info I am enjoying your post!
DONNY
#1422
Thread Starter
Truth be told I really don't know! BUT(here it comes) the lacquers I used in the past were too brittle and not fuel proof. dope (the term covers several types) nitrate is dope but won't hold up to fuel, butyrates will. I am not sure what rustoleum is but it is being used more and more I believe with a top coating of some kind of clear coating
back in the day we used to add castor oil to what dope we had as a plasticizer. .......I'll shut up now it's beyond my knowledge base to go further I'd like to know nore also!
back in the day we used to add castor oil to what dope we had as a plasticizer. .......I'll shut up now it's beyond my knowledge base to go further I'd like to know nore also!
#1423
My Feedback: (6)
#1424
My Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: ST LOUIS,
MO
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you can use nitrate or buterate dope& thinner from wicks aircraft supply. they are in Ill or other states ck the net you can thin it a lot
& get a lot of bottles just right for silkpan, or silk. use my apply silk with a curved sponge method for easy install of silk or silk span
frankie [email protected]
& get a lot of bottles just right for silkpan, or silk. use my apply silk with a curved sponge method for easy install of silk or silk span
frankie [email protected]
Last edited by trainermaster80; 04-10-2015 at 07:49 AM. Reason: SPELLING
#1425
Thread Starter
Did it look anything like this one? This belonged to Paul Vieth my father in-law he graduated Aviation High School in NYC around 1942 and went west to build B-29 cockpits during the war. He wne on to work as a licensed A & P with American Airlines for 37 years. the wing belongs to my niece Christine his first granddaughter, she considers it a piece of art and I agree with her. She wants to drive out to pick it up at some point but for now I get to enjoy it. The wing is preserved with a heavy glossy coating of some sort that has held up well over the years. Paul passed away in 2000 from Bladder cancer.