Propworn

My Feedback: (3)

I fly from a field in the US twice a week with a loose group of AMA flyers but it is not an official club. They use the grounds with permission from the 8 Mile Light Guard Armory. There are beginners all the way to advanced flyers. Fixed wing and heli/mutirotors, electric and fuel and most fixed wing have some sort of spinner. In fact most beginning flyers of fixed wing on both sides of the border all use the spinner that came with the kit or one recommended by the kit and you know what? Your evaluation of the spinner failure is not factual there are more spinners in use with beginners than not because that is what is recommended. The perceived danger is all in your head and that’s my opinion.

Dennis

Propworn

My Feedback: (3)

The build so far looks above average your doing well keep up the good work. Everything you are going to ask on this forum is going to result in many different ideas and methods. Eventually you will gain enough experience to make your own decisions. In the mean time take the advice given here with a grain of salt.

I personally like to wait to mount the engine until the end just before final covering. Rather than add weight I will move the engine on the beams until the model balances. With trainers they supply a plate where you mount your servos to a predestinated position in the fuselage this limits your ability to use this to help the balance. I like to complete the model in the bones complete with landing gear and servos in place. They don’t have to be mounted just in the holes. The motor mount is usually beam mount (wood supplied in the kit) or some sort of plastic/fiber re-enforced mount you screw to the firewall. Most mounts will allow you to slide the motor forward or back a little and this can ease the setting of the center of gravity. In one case I have a motor with a very long nose on it. This allows me to keep the cylinder head back towards the firewall where the cowl is larger so I don’t have to cut out openings in the cowl. The motor mounts direct to the firewall and I needed a ½ inch spacer so I made one from aluminum (same as the crankcase profile) and it spaced the motor/ spinner out perfectly adding a minimum of extra weight.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z-VK7rxxbjc What ever you do don’t get hung up on there only being one way to do things. Experiment; ask questions even better is to observe how others do things you can learn a bunch even from some of the newest members. Good ideas often come from unexpected sources. Be wary when anyone tells you there is only his way of doing things there are just too many others out there doing things a different way and having a ball. Keep an open mind and try everything once that’s what makes this hobby so interesting.

Dennis

Propworn

My Feedback: (3)

I did indeed re-read your post and to quote you “So when I agree to take on a new fellow to mentor if his airplane (At least the glow planes) has a full plastic) he will replace it with a spinner nut or we do not fly. “ I take it you’re not referring to the lone wolf learning on his own.

So instead of taking the beginner aside and showing him how to properly install a spinner, tighten the prop and align the prop and compression stroke to make starting easier you simply put down the fact he chose to use the equipment recommended by the manufacturer of the kit/model and insist he purchase and use something that is nothing but your personal preference.

In my book any half way decent instructor should be able to show any beginner how to properly install any spinner so it is safe and functional.

Look around the field fellow’s spinners out number prop nuts at an extremely high ratio. If they were such a safety hazard I am certain there would be warnings against using them. I know there have been warnings published about using the old style props that you boiled before use but nothing about spinners except following the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Rapid13 in the pic's you've posted I don't se any clamps being used, So I would add 2 things if you have a Harbor Fright close by They have a bag of small/medium plastic spring clamps that will help you hold things while you are checking a fit and to hold the parts while the glue is setting up. Next I am NOT a c/a fan for major structure's (my personnel preference is Titebond and gorilla glue) and when I do use c/a I generally go back over all joints and add a fillet of an alpha glue. NOTE: If you try to use gorilla glue there is a learning curve with it as it expand's about 5 to 1

All of the above suggestions are right on.

Cheers Bob T
AMA13377

BrightGarden

Great share, just ordered one off ebay. I am not a machinist and I think I am missing some inner secrets about how to get properly located, plumb holes for such things. Never seems hard at first but the process somehow never comes off perfectly. This will save me an hour or two just mounting each of the myriad 1/2A engines I have sitting here to soak up with planes.
Cheers - Peter G.

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

Think you Peter could use a little positive reinforcement when I come under such a vicious attack.

John

BrightGarden

I remember the first time I made beer. This was before there was so much selection that we have nowadays, over 20 years ago. A buddy at work was a bit of an evangelist about it so I always pick up on other people's enthusiasm. Bought the bible of homebrewing, and read what I needed to do about 3-4 times. Went to the beer stuff store and flubbed my way thru getting the equipment and ingredients I needed. Went home, sanitized everything twice, got the 5 gallons of water boiling. went laboriously through each step. I was unfamiliar with any of the process. Finally, got the boiled ingredients into the carboy to ferment, etc. etc etc.

After the third time i was flying thru the process, and getting good results. Unfortunately, there were a whole lot more beer tasters out there than brewers, the ratio was skewed for some reason. So, homebrewing turned out to just be boiling a bunch of ingredients, washing everything with clorox ahead of time, pouring the stuff from one vessel to another a few times. And waiting. There can be more to it depending on how crazy you want to get but you can make a whole bunch of different beers with very little effort. But, just go buy some ARF beer these days - Already Racked and Fermented.

Same with building a balsa slimer. It's all new at first. You're so intense about figuring out each step and getting the thing finished, it is a big shift of mindset to actually fly the thing. After a build or two, you hold both the build and fly experience in mind at once, and you start building to finish and get flying, once the mystery is out of it. That is why you can't be afraid to fly, or overinvest in the first bunch of planes. Build them to fly them. Build them straight and fairly light and it is going to fly. There are plenty of fast-build good flyers. You accumulate tools and skills along the way to speed the process or take on more advanced materials or building techniques. But keep flying!!!

Looking back the main thing you develop is getting the plane's CG in the right spot. That is to me maybe the first, and a major, development of ability - basic airworthiness.

Make sure to keep making it fun...

Cheers, Peter

OzMo

My Feedback: (3)

AHH well its true for some. However, building can be very rewarding and often you get a much finer product. Building with others is really nice, our club does the occasional "Build Night".

on_your_six

My Feedback: (11)

I don't glue any hinges (Rudder, Elevator, Ailerons) until the covering is on the aircraft... I did not see anyone mention that.

HoundDog

My Feedback: (49)

One thing U will have is the LEFT / RIGHT thing coming at U. Best of Luck.

Check out these clubs Join the AMA and a club and get HELP flying and Possibly building. 46060

AMA Charter Club Search for 46060 Noblesville, IN Enter location information to find your nearest clubs,
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We found 32 clubs that match the information you entered.

*Indicates clubs participating in AMA’s Introductory Pilot Program. For more information on this program please Click Here.
[TABLE="width: 700"]
[TR="bgcolor: #5D7B9D"]
[TD] Name [/TD]
[TD] Number [/TD]
[TD] Members [/TD]
[TD] Contact [/TD]
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[TD] *Intro Pilots [/TD]
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[TR="bgcolor: #F7F6F3"]
[TD] INDIANAPOLIS RC HELICOPTER CLUB
Flying Site Details
7.79 miles [/TD]
[TD] 4910 [/TD]
[TD] 21 [/TD]
[TD] LOU PERAGALLO
Email Contact [/TD]
[TD] Phone: 317.663.3207
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[/TD]
[TD] 6 [/TD]
[TD]
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[TD] FORT WAYNE CIRCLE JERKS
10.03 miles [/TD]
[TD] 4335 [/TD]
[TD] 7 [/TD]
[TD] DENNIS MALOTT
Email Contact [/TD]
[TD] Phone: 317-431-4600
[/TD]
[TD] 6 [/TD]
[TD]
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: #F7F6F3"]
[TD] INDY SPORTLINERS
Flying Site Details
10.03 miles [/TD]
[TD] 1021 [/TD]
[TD] 14 [/TD]
[TD] GARY ALSPAUGH
Email Contact [/TD]
[TD] Phone: 317-834-3568
[/TD]
[TD] 6 [/TD]
[TD]
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: White"]
[TD] NORTHEAST SIDE TAILDRAGGERS R/C AVIATION CLUB
Flying Site Details
12.18 miles [/TD]
[TD] 5037 [/TD]
[TD] 65 [/TD]
[TD] JAMES DAVID
Email Contact [/TD]
[TD] Phone: 317.627.7734
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[/TD]
[TD] 6 [/TD]
[TD] Yes [/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: #F7F6F3"]
[TD] VIEHE RC FLIERS
Flying Site Details
12.80 miles [/TD]
[TD] 1833 [/TD]
[TD] 67 [/TD]
[TD] DAVID GULLIVER
Email Contact [/TD]
[TD] Phone: 317.733.2226
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[/TD]
[TD] 6 [/TD]
[TD]
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[TD] HAMILTON COUNTY R/C FLYERS
Flying Site Details
13.06 miles [/TD]
[TD] 3083 [/TD]
[TD] 26 [/TD]
[TD] GENE KRODEL
Email Contact [/TD]
[TD] Phone: 317.842.7945
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[/TD]
[TD] 6 [/TD]
[TD]
[/TD]
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[TD] INDIANAPOLIS WESTSIDE RC MODELERS
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13.77 miles [/TD]
[TD] 289 [/TD]
[TD] 39 [/TD]
[TD] ROBERT HILL
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[TD] Phone: 317-875-6842
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[/TD]
[TD] 6 [/TD]
[TD] Yes [/TD]
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[TD] ANDERSON EXTREME FLYERS
Flying Site Details
14.36 miles [/TD]
[TD] 4696 [/TD]
[TD] 13 [/TD]
[TD] ROGER SEWARD
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[TD] Phone: 765-748-6828
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[/TD]
[TD] 6 [/TD]
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[TR="bgcolor: #F7F6F3"]
[TD] INDIANAPOLIS RC MODELERS
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16.96 miles [/TD]
[TD] 288 [/TD]
[TD] 85 [/TD]
[TD] TED BRINDLE
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[TD] Phone: 317/894-2311
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[/TD]
[TD] 6 [/TD]
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[TD] TIPTON COUNTY RC CLUB - Email Club
Flying Site Details
17.23 miles [/TD]
[TD] 5031 [/TD]
[TD] 7 [/TD]
[TD] ANDY BORUFF
Email Contact [/TD]
[TD] Phone: 765.675.7222
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[/TD]
[TD] 6 [/TD]
[TD]
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[TD] MADISON COUNTY RC FLYERS
Flying Site Details
17.71 miles [/TD]
[TD] 291 [/TD]
[TD] 49 [/TD]
[TD] JON FISH
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[TD] Phone: 765-557-0014
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[/TD]
[TD] 6 [/TD]
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[TD] ANDERSON AERO MODELERS
Flying Site Details
23.39 miles [/TD]
[TD] 4120 [/TD]
[TD] 62 [/TD]
[TD] DONALD SANQUNETTI
Email Contact [/TD]
[TD] Phone: 765-617-7853
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[/TD]
[TD] 6 [/TD]
[TD] Yes [/TD]
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[TD] MODEL AVIATION LEAGUE
Flying Site Details
24.59 miles [/TD]
[TD] 4964 [/TD]
[TD] 84 [/TD]
[TD] JAMES LOVE
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[TD] Phone: 765.482.0375
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[TD] 6 [/TD]
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[TD] INDIANAPOLIS RC SOUTH
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24.75 miles [/TD]
[TD] 903 [/TD]
[TD] 104 [/TD]
[TD] CHARLES CHERRY
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[TD] Phone: 317-862-3692
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[TD] 6 [/TD]
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[TD] KOKOMO BLUE ANGELS
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29.47 miles [/TD]
[TD] 290 [/TD]
[TD] 12 [/TD]
[TD] STEVEN ELKINS
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[TD] Phone: 765.864.9347
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[/TD]
[TD] 6 [/TD]
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[TD] SKYMIST
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29.82 miles [/TD]
[TD] 4101 [/TD]
[TD] 25 [/TD]
[TD] GREG PRATER
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[TD] Phone: 765.759.8097
[/TD]
[TD] 6 [/TD]
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[TD] SCREAMING EAGLES RC CLUB INC
Flying Site Details
30.76 miles [/TD]
[TD] 298 [/TD]
[TD] 62 [/TD]
[TD] DAVID JUGG
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[TD] Phone: 317-756-8337
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[/TD]
[TD] 6 [/TD]
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[TD] ORBITORS RC MODELERS
31.55 miles [/TD]
[TD] 1680 [/TD]
[TD] 14 [/TD]
[TD] STANLEY BEAVEN
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[TD] Phone: 765/659-2940
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[TD] 6 [/TD]
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[TD] GALVESTON RADIO CONTROL FUN FLYERS
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32.01 miles [/TD]
[TD] 3844 [/TD]
[TD] 24 [/TD]
[TD] GREGORY LEWON
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[TD] Phone: 765-868-3137
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[TD] 6 [/TD]
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32.19 miles [/TD]
[TD] 3974 [/TD]
[TD] 13 [/TD]
[TD] THOMAS ALLEN
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[TD] Phone: 765-744-2721
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[TD] 6 [/TD]
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[TD] BLACK SHEEP R C MODELERS CLUB
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33.85 miles [/TD]
[TD] 3032 [/TD]
[TD] 51 [/TD]
[TD] REGE HALL
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[TD] Phone: 317-745-2176
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[/TD]
[TD] 6 [/TD]
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[TD] HENRY CO WRIGHT FLYERS RC CLUB
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34.53 miles [/TD]
[TD] 1121 [/TD]
[TD] 32 [/TD]
[TD] CHARLES JARBOE
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[TD] Phone: 765-529-1948
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[/TD]
[TD] 6 [/TD]
[TD]
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: #F7F6F3"]
[TD] MISSISSINEWA SKY HAWKS
Flying Site Details
37.52 miles [/TD]
[TD] 281 [/TD]
[TD] 27 [/TD]
[TD] CHARLES VERMILION
Email Contact [/TD]
[TD] Phone: 765-674-4214
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[/TD]
[TD] 6 [/TD]
[TD]
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: White"]
[TD] CONVERSE FLYING EAGLES
Flying Site Details
37.92 miles [/TD]
[TD] 2951 [/TD]
[TD] 65 [/TD]
[TD] STANLEY SPENCER
Email Contact [/TD]
[TD] Phone: 765.472.3566
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[/TD]
[TD] 6 [/TD]
[TD]
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: #F7F6F3"]
[TD] SHELBY RC FLYERS
Flying Site Details
37.99 miles [/TD]
[TD] 5212 [/TD]
[TD] 5 [/TD]
[TD] BRIAN TAYLOR
Email Contact [/TD]
[TD] Phone: 317/398-2905
[/TD]
[TD] 6 [/TD]
[TD]
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: White"]
[TD] JOHNSON COUNTY RC FLYERS - Email Club
38.22 miles [/TD]
[TD] 443 [/TD]
[TD] 55 [/TD]
[TD] DENNIS RUNGE
Email Contact [/TD]
[TD] Phone: 317.736.0590
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[/TD]
[TD] 6 [/TD]
[TD]
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: #F7F6F3"]
[TD] HUNTINGTON COUNTY MODELERS CLUB
Flying Site Details
38.68 miles [/TD]
[TD] 689 [/TD]
[TD] 32 [/TD]
[TD] ANDREW FRACICA
Email Contact [/TD]
[TD] Phone: 260.676.2125
Visit Website
[/TD]
[TD] 6 [/TD]
[TD]
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: White"]
[TD] CENTRAL INDIANA AEROMODELLERS
44.11 miles [/TD]
[TD] 1144 [/TD]
[TD] 16 [/TD]
[TD] MEREDITH CHAMBERLAIN [/TD]
[TD] Phone: 765-643-1885
[/TD]
[TD] 6 [/TD]
[TD]
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: #F7F6F3"]
[TD] PARKER CITY R.C.ERS
Flying Site Details
44.35 miles [/TD]
[TD] 4212 [/TD]
[TD] 11 [/TD]
[TD] GAYL WOODRING [/TD]
[TD] Phone: 765-468-7913
[/TD]
[TD] 6 [/TD]
[TD]
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: White"]
[TD] HAGERSTOWN RC AIRCRAFT CLUB
45.75 miles [/TD]
[TD] 1438 [/TD]
[TD] 18 [/TD]
[TD] JENNIFER OCHOA
Email Contact [/TD]
[TD] Phone: 765.277.0134
[/TD]
[TD] 6 [/TD]
[TD] Yes [/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: #F7F6F3"]
[TD] SUGAR CREEK RADIO CONTROL
Flying Site Details
46.87 miles [/TD]
[TD] 3526 [/TD]
[TD] 12 [/TD]
[TD] STEVE DOUGHTY
Email Contact [/TD]
[TD] Phone: 765.401.1230
Visit Website
[/TD]
[TD] 6 [/TD]
[TD] Yes [/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: White"]
[TD] GLASS CAPITOL PROP TWISTERS - Email Club
Flying Site Details
48.07 miles [/TD]
[TD] 3393 [/TD]
[TD] 22 [/TD]
[TD] BOB BICKNELL
Email Contact [/TD]
[TD] Phone: 765-369-2505
[/TD]
[TD] 6 [/TD]
[TD]
[/TD]
[/TR]
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HoundDog

My Feedback: (49)

According to Google Maps U are only 42 miles from one of the greatest Flying sites in the world and the Museaum of every thing in RC flying ... check it out this winter.
[h=1]Academy of Model Aeronautics[/h]5161 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302

[h=2]Open today[/h]

1. 8:00 am – 5:00 pm

AMA 74894

My Feedback: (1)

I'd like to step in and remind everyone that this is a friendly forum, that we all are ALLOWED to have different opinions, and that differing opinions are not a valid reason to start attacking one another.

Thanks Gents, let's go back to helping out the newer folks.

carddfann

Sometimes I've had to use just a little CA to hold my engine to mounts until I get the engine located on the firewall and centered with the cowling. One drop of CA per each side of the engine usually is enough to tack it on long enough to get it located.
When the small drop dries, it's not so tight you can't get them apart later. This is handy if you have a plastic cowl. Once you get it centered on the firewall with the center of the cowl and the mounts screwed down, then you can break the engine
free and slide it front to back until you get the right clearance between the spinner and the cowl. Once in a while, I've had to carefully wedge an Xacto blade a little between the engine lug and the mount to get them started coming apart. Another tip,
is don't work with the engine temporarily glued to the mount while hanging over a table. If the engine should come off the mount while working, you don't want it to fall to the floor and get damaged. Keep your work over your bench. I had a new engine
once where it fell off the mount while working and hit my concrete basement floor and it broke a couple of cooling fins. Didn't hurt performance but it looked bad and I was pissed.

Great Planes makes a hole center tool that is handy for locating the drilling centers of engine to mount and mount to firewall or any other hole center application.

mghowell53

Before you go out to the field,locate a club in your area. Attend a meeting and ask someone for some help setting up the plane and transmitter. If you go electric make sure you have the proper equipment and most of all don't be afraid to ask for an instructor!.

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXK378&P=ML

indeed here agine is the wonderful tool that Carddfann is referring to at eight bucks it can be one of your most valued tools Also you will find on occasion uses other than just hanging engines.

The modern glass filled engine mounts and the type your PT-40 kit uses is very easy to use the temporary tack with CA technique works well for marking the drill points. My preference is to mount the engine to the beams first and of course measure the distance that you prefer. Since you PT-40 does not use any cowl only side cheeks its very easy to position the engine where you want it and then use the locator tool. I do not normally do not do the CA tack tack method but it can work easily also. I normally just sit in a chair and look straight at the front of the fuselage with the engine mount installed which makes it easy to position it where you want it then mark with the locator. Here too a temporary tack with CA can be helpful if you like.

John

D400webb

Rapid13,

In my opinion, you've gone about this the right way. You've started by building your own trainer (good approach, good choice of plane), and then you've asked the community for some guidance; again, you're doing the right thing. I'm of the opinion that for some folks, building their own plane may mean that they might approach the flight training with a bit more thoughtfulness and caution, and proceed in a stepwise, conservative manner, and thus actually learn to fly in baby steps, rather than just bounce a foamy around the sky and the ground. Don't get me wrong; nothing wrong with foamies, or even being less cautious about flying them; but in my opinion these different approaches probably suit different personalities.

I started in RC flying (gliders) by building a well-known built-up balsa "trainer" (Airtronics Olympic II sailplane). I visited (and joined) a local club, and got all the help I could ask for from a really great bunch of people who were genuinely interested in helping me have an enjoyable introduction to the hobby. People actually approached me, and asked if they could help in various ways. My build got checked over with a fine-tooth comb, not looking to criticize my skills, but merely looking to ensure the airframe was flight-worthy; that it was built straight, that it was balanced correctly, that the control surfaces operated smoothly, that my radio was set up correctly - the idea, of course, was to try to avoid preventable mishaps. After everything was checked over and given the green light, the plane was hand-launched (remember, this was a glider) to check the trims, and then someone offered to launch and test fly it. They took the plane up (on a winch) and rechecked the trims, did a few maneuvers to test the overall stability, and then (AND HERE'S THE CRITICAL PART) my first stick time was with the plane already in the air and flying smoothly. That first flight lasted 14 minutes (remember, no power)! The club members didn't want me to worry about launches or landings until I felt comfortable enough that I'd accumulated sufficient stick time to give it a try. They'd be there to launch, and to land. It was a wonderful way to start out in RC flying.

I had accumulated a lot of flying hours on that plane before it suffered any mishaps. Of course, flying gliders is easier in many ways; the airframe has a lot less mass than comparable-sized powered planes, so there's less chance of serious damage when you do get around to bouncing it (of course you can't just drag the airframe around the sky with an over-powered prop either; you actually need to learn to fly). But the point I'm trying to make is that beginners can learn to fly on stick-built airframes without necessarily suffering discouraging mishaps, if they go about it in reasonable fashion, and if they have all the right help.

Finally, I'd like to emphasize something that others have also mentioned. I can appreciate that building is not for everybody, but it can certainly be a very enjoyable part of the hobby. Here's the thing though; if, when you're done building, you find you're afraid to fly it, then "building to fly" is probably not your thing, and that's fine. There are flyers; there are builders; and there are builder-flyers; there's a place for everybody. My own attitude is that if you crash a plane you've built, repair it and fly it some more. If it ever becomes un-repairable, who cares(?); I enjoyed my time spent building it, I enjoyed my time spent flying it, and I enjoyed my time spent fixing it. And I can always enjoy all of this again with the next plane, and the one after that. It's not about the plane; it's all about your enjoyment.

Good luck with your plane; I hope you enjoy every minute of building it and flying it.

OzMo

My Feedback: (3)

TIP: Take your instruction book(s) with you. Radio, ESC and so forth. I know its starting to seem overwhelming. IT will work out and it REALLY IS FUN!

OzMo

My Feedback: (3)

Most of this stuff will become automatic after a while. Don't let any problems stop you from having fun and making new friends.
By this time next year you'll be helping new guys.

Hossfly

Not really my place to butt in but I will. Just reading through this thread kind of makes me remind myself that I am a very "OLD TIMER" and I do not stay up much for this stuff any more.
Trainer engines in the .35 to .50 size; .35 to .46 IMO should be in the 11-4 range. You get much better PULL for take-off and plenty for cruise along with the times you full-throttle GO-Around. Of course be aware the engine will wish to torque the model to a left turn. Use some rudder to straighten along with the ailerons a but easy on aileron. The 11-4 will make your landings much easier and will assist those nose-first landings to be many less. Why? When you start a round-out as you land, a low pitch prop will keep more air flowing over the tail feathers. That assists you in keeping the nose up rather than spitting down. As you slow, you need to be able to feed in more "UP" elevator, yet slow down. The low pitch assists you to do so. Lord only knows just how many bent nose gears and broken props that I have seen newbies.
My favorite remembrance some years ago, there was this really excellent flier but he had "L" with landings. One day I asked if he would care to try something. He was flying one of the high wing trainers of the day. He was an airline pilot but came from Navy Carrier fighter pilot background. I commented that he seemed to fly in with a good approach but always dropped the nose and Ker-Thunk! We discussed a few items: Do you do that with an airliner? "NO!" Are you on a Carrier deck out here? "NO!"
When you "chop" the throttle as you are about to land a model, does your model's nose drop? "Yes!" How about keeping some power on rather than cutting back? "If I do that, the model will not slow down!" Then how about using less pitch in the prop? "I only use 10-6 with this engine." Would you try an 11"-4" prop? "I don't have one."
Well I do so let's try it. Within 3 approaches, he was easing off the power to minimum idle as he eased the nose up for greaser after greaser. That is a reason that pylon racers cut their throttle before landing and start the approach WAYYY out! BTDT!
I have not been doing much for the past year, but I will be back big time real soon. For the normal flying I find the Thunder Tigre to be the best little .40-45 engine
ever. I have many many engines of many makes, number of sparkers to current, along with some 100 kits from rubber stick to a turbine kit, which I have never tried to build and probably never will.
One that I don't care for is any one with O.S. stamped on it, yet I do use a few O.S. Clones. In addition I just cannot think of using electric for a flying model airplane, however on the other hand, well you know , hummm, wanna buy a lot of gas and glow engines???

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

I agree with the longer prop with a smaller pitch but to locate them in say a 4 pitch you may have to order them. I was out last week and went to two shops looking for props in the 10 and 11 length with small pitch, 6 was as small as I could locate.

Hossfly

Excellent point G.B. I never have that problem as I do some mail-order, yet seldom do I have to buy props that way. In addition now and then if I find a store with them, I may pick up a supply, or so whether I need them or not. . In addition, the LHSs really are so enticed in electric and such they seldom speak "model builders" anymore. However, guess I better check out my supply of the 4" pitch, which I use mostly for training, but Spring is on its way.

TomCrump

Please elaborate. It sounds like you are saying that electric fliers are not model builders.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Tom

I did not get that impression, what I got is what I see at my LHS they are catering to the money ie electric's our good shop's are for the most part a privately owned and generally stocked fairly well and always offer to order the item and have it in less than a week.

Just my thoughts

Cheers Bob T

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

My main hobby shop was a builders and giant scale shop until it sold a couple years ago. Even at that point the back room had a huge selection of ARFs and electric planes were just starting to really take off so at this point the shop is now stocked with what is selling the most, that is electrics and ARFs not to mention all the quad choppers. They still have a good selection of supplies for builders, just nothing like it had just a couple years ago.
I have little use for small props, that would be anything under 15 inches but the shop had a good selection of 10 and 11 inch props, just not in pitch. They did have a pretty big selection of small APC props in pusher?? They even had them in the small pitch. I figured the owner just got a good deal on pushers?
My point was just to remind the OP that it is easier to buy a selection of prop sizes and pitches from a place like tower if he wants a good selection because not all hobby shops will have them on hand or have a good selection of makes and materials.
So far my electric powered planes are one small ARF, three kits and a scratch built but by far the most electric types of planes in my area are foam ARFs but there are several kit built trainers. I'm still a builder but I agree with Bob, the shops cater to what is selling and electric ARFs are hot. I haven't seen a kit at any of my three local shops in a long time. It's even rare to find balsa stocked in them.

HoundDog

My Feedback: (49)

It all started in the 20's, 30's & 40's with people making their own plans and scratch building. Then after 22II kits appeared, In the 50 an early 60 it was all kits and only the experts scratch built. Now this lasted through the mid 90's then came the ARF made of Light ply Foam covered plastic and plastic winf and rudder & elevator tips ... Almost impossible to repair. Then came ARF (Pre Built light ply and balsa and regular shrinkable covering. Noe those are pretty much giving way to Foam electrics and U still find few really talented builders doing Large scale War birds either from plans (Scratch) or short kits.

If U look at it Model Aviation pretty much followed Full Scale Aviation. Scratch build (Wright Bros. ans others) in the early 20 century. Then Manufactures built certified air planes then the EAA came on in the early 50's and many were scratch building full scale from plans then Kits became popular and 51% of the plane had to be built by the builder / Pilot. then came Plastic fiber glass planes built from plans then profusinaly built and certified.

Thing just keep marching on and the old timers whine about things changing and it's going to destrou the Hoby sport as they knew it. So be it. Some people have the time and the skills and where with all to build or even assemble an ARF. As for my self I hate CA but it sure likes me. So I buy USED . Thank God for RCU, Swap meets and auctions.

Just be happy that there are ready to fly and foam electrics and now the Quads. If it wern't for the advance ment in new meterials and ready made to fly plane we probably would not be able to afford a the hobby today. my 2 cents worth JMHO