RBACONS

My Feedback: (3)

Since you're making progress, once you get the engines more or less running, you need to tune them. A properly tuned engine should hold a fairly steady RPM for 30 seconds or so, both at idle and at wide open, and should transition from idle to full speed without stumbling or hesitating. Open the throttle all the way and listen to it for about 30 seconds. If the engine speeds up and then dies, the needle valve is too lean. You need to turn it counterclockwise to open it a bit more, try 1/4 turn at a time. On the other hand, if it slows down, then the needle valve is too rich. Turn it clockwise to lean it out, again about 1/4 turn at a time. Once you get it running properly at high speed, do the same thing with the engine at idle. Only this time, you are adjusting the low speed needle. Then check to see if it transitions to full speed fairly smoothly (take about 1 second to move the throttle from idle to full rather than jamming it to full instantaneously). You may need to repeat the steps 2 or 3 times to really get it dialed in as changing one needle can affect the other setting.

erwabo

That's great news! When I told the guy at the hobby shop that I had a 72Mhz, he said "oh yeah, you need to get rid of that, those are junk" haha...If they have a module, that made makes my day

erwabo

So...is ONE nut enough to hold on the prop. That OS 60 had 2 nuts, one is a large like 1" guy and the other is a standard nut, that actually flew off...have no idea where it went. Needless to say, I will be purchasing some safety goggles asap.

I gotta say, when that prop first comes on...kinda freaky...like a circular saw...that Saito with the 12" prop...gonna have to be really careful around that bad boy once I get it going. Gonna really take my time with that one =)

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Two nuts on a four stroke is SOP with most people, they usually come with two. One nut is SOP with two strokes most the time. A four stroke will back fire when it's too lean and toss the prop. I usually use two nuts after I rebuild one but once it is in tune I don't bother, I just use the adapter nut for the spinner if I have the correct size or somethimes I need an extra nut to take up the space.
ALWAYS tune from behind the prop, never start revving an engine while your in front of it. That's the voice of experience!!! Years ago I had a back fire and had a prop zing over my head, go into my shop and through the wing of a brand new plane that had never even been flown. Missed the ribs but I had two patches on a new plane on maiden day.
I use a spinner nut on two strokes.

erwabo

Maybe I should go electric...I may save lives

erwabo

Im guessing this is what you are referring to. http://www.amazon.com/Futaba-TM-8-2-.../dp/B001BHK59W

Since that is half the cost of a really nice transmitter ( I was looking at a Spektrum DX8 but they don't seem too reliable based on reviews), would it be better to update to a new transmitter. What does the 8U have that makes it so great?

bikerbc

I use a DX8 and I really like it . I have had very little trouble with it . I would say that the transmmiters that have been around for a long time are reliable . Futaba ,JR Spektrum Hitec and maybe the Tactic . Possibly some of the new cheapones will be okay but I would wait untill they have proven themselves . There will always be arguments over who has the best . You will need to make up your own mind .

Hab

Welcome to the wonderful world of R/C. All the above information is good, but it might be a wise choice in considering a visit out to the local field or HS, who actually deal or fly
r/c and can give constructive advice or demonstration.
Get chatting and meeting with people. Guys are always willing to give a helping hand or advice within the hobby. Getting an engine to run, can be a tricky one to a new comer like yourself, until you understand an engines operation ~ and habits.
Hate to see ya get discouraged with the hobby. Especially trying to hand start /flip a .60 or a 4 stroke -Saito. But, from what I've read, yes some of the above info is helpful.... and some of it I have to SMH at. Happy flying and keep the wings level.

Once you're shown what to look for when attempting, as to whether it be a 2 or 4s ... you'll have a safer and happier time.

erwabo

So my old 72 Mhz Futaba CAN fly the new receivers if I get a module, but if I got DX8 I could not bind to any of these old receivers right but I could just get newer receivers and use the old servos? Is that correct

JollyPopper

My Feedback: (6)

That is correct.

erwabo

Okay boys...today is the day I get the Saito FA-91 humming...I hope. Been soaking for 36 hours, gonna reassemble it, re mount it and try and fire her up. This Tiger-60 was grandpas go to plane...he loved it, so I really want to get it working again. It needs some MonoKote patch in a could spots.I would like to redo it but I was advised that's NOT a fun job....so my question is can MonoKote be spray painted or does the paint dissolve that stuff?

Headed off to reassemble the engine =)

Top_Gunn

My Feedback: (6)

Excellent advice. Don't overlook the part about hand flipping a 4-stroke engine. Don't do it. Especially if you aren't experienced.

erwabo

Yes im DEFINITLEY not hand starting that one!

So the Saito started for a second but then looks to have run out of fuel. Interesting on this one that im not getting much suction. When I disconnect the fuel line and plug the muffler and turn the prop, the first burst of fuel is a nice stream but then after that its only small droplets. (that could be normal as far as I know =) Havent seen that before though when testing these engines. Any ideas?

[email protected]

My Feedback: (1)

get a os engine

bikerbc

It is difficult to say with out being there . its possible it could be the valves sticking or improperly set . , a hole in one of your fuel lines.

bikerbc

How is your tank locatated as compared to your carb ? The center of the tank should line up with the spray bar in your carb or be just a bit lower .

erwabo

Yeah its just a bit lower. I took out the carb again and took out the needle valve and held it up to the sun and I couldn't see through it...so I took some guitar string and cleaned that all out and I got it started and it was running for about 15 seconds and then it died again...so its getting there. But as I said its been 15 years since this engine has run, so I guess 15 seconds isn't bad =) Getting closer.

bikerbc

You can take your fuel pump and with the needle out squirt a little fuel thru the hole where the needle was you should see it spray out thru the inside of the carb . Just a small squirt should do the trick . That will clean out any crap thats in there . hopfully . Then stick your needle back in and turn it out too where it was when it was running

erwabo

Well EVERYONE, I have succeeded! =) Thanks for all the tips!. So basically, taking everyone's advice...soaking the engine, cleaning the carb and needle valve, new glow plugs, fully charged igniter, figuring out the right throttle and needle valve settings and BOTH the OS and the Saito are humming beautifully. Thanks so much!! Now I just need to get my RTF trainer, spend some time at the club and hopefully by mid summer I will get grandpas balsa wood ones up in the air!!

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

The 8U radio was top of the line at the time, the why is because of the price plus the programing it carried. It's still a good radio and with a 2.4 module you can fly both 72 and 2.4 just by changing out the module. The choice is up to you. I have the slightly newer Futaba 9-C with a Hitec module. You can also choose the JR module if you like the JR/Spaktra RXs. You cannot fly the JR or Hitec RXs with a Futaba module so if you go this route choose the one you think you like the best. There is nothing wrong with 72 but you just have to make sure no one else at the field is on your channel or you could both shoot each other down.
Any of the problems you read about with JR or Spektra is old news from when they first came out on the market. Most of the problem is just what we call brown out and the radio would loose the bind and lock you out. If you go to 2.4 just make sure your aircraft battery is 6 volts and not the 4.8 a new radio comes with. Just a minor thing but it pays to be careful!!!!

stuntman718

My Feedback: (4)

From what I see In this Picture the idle screw is not flush with the arm. The screw provide suction of fuel. If turned in to much no fuel will reach carb. All of my idle screws are flush,with throttle arm, except one It sticks out about one turn. Hope this helps

erwabo

Stuntman718 - that picture is on the engine with the seized carb, but good to know...That probably will save me much time down the road in troubleshooting engines =)

bikerbc

Congratulations on getting your engines running . You are one step closer to getting a plane in the air . You seem quite determined and are good at listening to others when they try to help you . I would just like to reassert the importance of saftey espially now you have the engines running . It is very exciting and because of this it is easy to accidently slip and stick our fingers into that whiriling meat grinder and suddenly the fun is over . Everything gets slipery with the exhaust residue blowing everywhere . One day I watched a experienced pilot stick his fingers thru the blades of an ASP prop that was on a new plane with a new OS 75 AX he was breaking in . He wanted to feel the head to see if it was getting hot . Just for that brief second he forgot about the prop but boy did he ever pay for it . It chopped off his finger nails instantly . The bones were all fine and we managed the all bleeding properly . Thank the lord that we had proper first aid . We were all standing around the front of the plane in a semi circle talking . ( A very bad pratice) when this happened . We were all stunned . You dont expect to see something like that . We were all hit with bits of crap but it could have been far worse . we could have been hit with pieces of prop . It didn't break .

erwabo

Yeah my wifes grandpa was telling he did that once. Said he reached in from the front of the engine to adjust the needle valve and sliced the tip of his finger off and for whatever reason he just kinda collapsed on the ground for a second and his buddies get it all bandaged up for him. Early in the week when I was trying to get that OS started, Im not sure what happened, but it backfired or something...and both prop nuts came off, one went flying, the other one went a few feet and luckily the prop stayed on the bolt...the engine revved REALLY high, I thought for sure it blew but it didnt. After that I have NO INTEREST in being in front of an engine

erwabo

So im using a trainer program and one thing that is really annoying is the planes automatic lift...meaning it wont fly level...constantly tries to lift...and when I do like a knife edge, it wants to drift down. These are probably normal physics, but on a REAL controller...can I compensate for this with trim and mixes so I dont have to constantly try to make micro adjustments. Even flying upside down, its the same thing...the plane constantly wants to pull down.