wakehand

Hi, I'm in the midst of building a kit (LT-40) and will need to break in my engine soon. I'll likely head over to my in-laws as they have an acreage and no neighbours to disturb. I don't have any ancillary support equipment, so I'm looking for some recommendations for a flight box and contents.

1) Sig Mini Boss vs Sig Gass Passer - it's a coin toss for me, I like the looks of the gass passer a little more.
2) Fuelling System - I was thinking a Jersey Modeler 1.3 glow GLOW (though I can't figure out if it would fit into either of the sigs)
3) Hot shots glow igniter
4) Used sullivan starter
5) What else might I need that would be considered ether mandatory or nice to have?

Thoughts?

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

Hi,
The Jersey system is nice but won't fit onto the box. The Fillin' Station is a bit more practical, less expensive and will fit on the caddy.
https://www.horizonhobby.com/fillin-...ench%29-dub908

You will need a plug wrench:
https://www.horizonhobby.com/socket-...-x-long-dub702

A 12 volt battery
https://www.horizonhobby.com/12v-7ah...er-combo-han19

Other things are screw drivers, a long shaft flat-blade driver to adjust the carb needles, hex wrenches, long-nose pliers, cutters, forceps, crescent wrench, extra fuel line, extra glow plugs, extra props, a rope/line to tie the tail of the plane to a post for safety.

A first-aid kit.

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

The Jersey Modeler set uo to me is a far better setup. They have a rep for quality systems and yes I have an older 2.5 gal Jersey for some airplanes. I was never a fan of the Fillin Station as these are quite top heavy with the tall round bottles that most fuel comes in now.

Most important to me is, no the Jersey is not likely to fit the old fashioned flight boxes and thats a mistake anyway. With all the other stuff and heavy starting battery I much prefer to transport the fuel separately anyway. For most of my glow flying that 1.3 Jersey is ideal easy to carry and stable when traveling.

It is expensive but another alternative is to use nice one gal bottles that some oils come in with a perfect handle and I secure a manual geared pump low on the side with RTV and a dubro fuel can fittings. (actually with metal caps I use to just solder some brass tubes thru the caps but most are plastic now and the dubro fittings are best.

John

rgburrill

I've had several glow igniters over the years and hated every one. They just don't seem to stay on and vibrate off into the rotating prop. Plus it's another battery you have to buy and it's a C-size NiCd.. I like the glow plug cable with a rotary knob on your field box to control the current. The trick with them is to turn them all the way down before connecting then turn them slowly up until you get the right current to the plug.

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

True.
If you are going to get the flight box you may as well spring for the power panel and use it for the glow plug. Then you could use an electric transfer pump instead of the crank.

https://www.horizonhobby.com/product...r-panel-han106

https://www.horizonhobby.com/glow-pl...-medium-han120

https://www.horizonhobby.com/electri...v--glow-sul752

mgnostic

X2 on the power panel. There is the additional expense of a jell cell but they last for years. The panel can also power you starter and an electric fuel pump. Along with the plug wrench you should grab a couple of extra glow plugs. It isn't unusual for a break in to eat a plug.

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

Here is my more current glow fuel and gas containers. The metal cans are hard to get now and the plastic types in the first pics are mostly oil type containers. They are more stable sitting than the round fuel jugs, even more durable than the old metal types and have a very comfortable handle.

I use for glow and smaller gassers the geared manual fuel pumps because they have the wonderful advantage by simply counting the number of cranks to fill the aircraft and after flying counting the cranks to defuel you will soon be able to accurately predict fuel consumption and available flying time. For tanks under around 24 ounces I use only geared manuals, for larger then electrics are a better solution.

The containers in the pictures all have the pumps attached with RTV silicon seal/cement it is very solid and most for me has lasted for years. The trick is to layer the RTV about a 1/4 inch thick then ease the pump in gently and let cure a full 24 hours.

Now since we cannot solder brass tube through the metal caps anymore You can use either the full fittings and pump set from Dubro #911 or if you already have a pump manual or electric you can use the simple Dubro through the cap fittings #192 .

I do use my Jersy Modeler 2.5 and 5.0 gallon containers and pumps for my turbines and they are of very good quality.

John

jester_s1

I go the other way for power. I use a starter mounted battery and self-contained glow plug. I don't like wires to bother with. it's a little bit more charging and a little less up front cost.

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

[QUOTE=jester_s1;12403678]I go the other way for power. I use a starter mounted battery and self-contained glow plug. I don't like wires to bother with. it's a little bit more charging and a little less up front cost.[/QUOT


Indeed, it is my belief that the power panel is the most useless device in addition to being a safety hazard that has been sold to the new folks for the last thirty years. If one becomes a truly active flyer the process of carrying around an outsized flight box with fuel and a giant battery becomes just to tedious. This when it is unnecessary and you can experience true freedom from all umbilical cords with modern setups.

Now to the safety part of a power panel and single heavy battery. Using just the starter on a umbilical to the power panel is bad enough but also using an umbilical for the glow ignitor is truly a safety hazard. The starter is used in front of the prop and the glow driver is used behind the engine/prop with both umbilicals must be routed to the power panel a single point somewhere. This is a safety problem and I have witnessed accidents over the years because of this.

Another huge advantage of going full portable is with the starters. All the starters will handle 18 volts and by using modern drill batteries attached to the starter or simply up to a four cell Lipo the increase in performance over the old heavy and wimpy 12v flight box battery is unbelievable.

John