Help with Turnigy servo speed controller
#1
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Help with Turnigy servo speed controller
Hi
I hope someone can help/advise me with a problem I Have.
I am using a Futaba T6K transmitter with a Dynam Hurricane. I have now connected a Turnigy 3 channel servo speed regulator to slow down the flaps, but nothing happens when I operate the switch. Without the regulator the flaps still work correctly.
What am I doing wrong or is the Turnigy faulty?
thanks
Frank
I hope someone can help/advise me with a problem I Have.
I am using a Futaba T6K transmitter with a Dynam Hurricane. I have now connected a Turnigy 3 channel servo speed regulator to slow down the flaps, but nothing happens when I operate the switch. Without the regulator the flaps still work correctly.
What am I doing wrong or is the Turnigy faulty?
thanks
Frank
#2
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Hi
I’ve solved the issue. The label on the front, showing the connections is wrong!
The location of the connectors for Input and CH1 is correct but the “ S, +, & -“ are reversed.
The Ch2 & Ch3 are correct.
The unit now functions correctly.
Frank
I’ve solved the issue. The label on the front, showing the connections is wrong!
The location of the connectors for Input and CH1 is correct but the “ S, +, & -“ are reversed.
The Ch2 & Ch3 are correct.
The unit now functions correctly.
Frank
#3
Banned
I wouldn't say it's labeled wrong. What you have are two different manufacturers involved who wire their servos differently. You'll notice the "S" or Signal wire is in the middle. This holds true for all manufacturers. But the + and - can be reversed depending who the manufacturer is. I know Futaba and JR are opposite each other. But their servo connectors can be inserted upside down in the others Rx thus allowing a Futaba servo to connect to a JR receiver and vise versa. With some a slight modification to the servo plug may be needed. You'll see a little tab or key on the Futaba. Carefully shave that off and the plug will easily connect to other brands.
Two things to note, the black or brown wire is typically the - or negative lead. All Receivers I'm familiar with have the Neg pins closest to the end of the Rx as viewed from above or closest to the bottom as viewed from the connector end. So, as long as all the Black wires line up in the Rx, you should be good to go. Most Rx are also labeled today but as they get smaller my eyes have enough trouble just seeing the pins let alone some micro label.
When in doubt, plug in a servo to see where the Neg wire falls. Then add everything else.
Two things to note, the black or brown wire is typically the - or negative lead. All Receivers I'm familiar with have the Neg pins closest to the end of the Rx as viewed from above or closest to the bottom as viewed from the connector end. So, as long as all the Black wires line up in the Rx, you should be good to go. Most Rx are also labeled today but as they get smaller my eyes have enough trouble just seeing the pins let alone some micro label.
When in doubt, plug in a servo to see where the Neg wire falls. Then add everything else.
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Hi Appowner
Thanks for the reply, but I still say the labelling is wrong for the input and CH1. If you theory was correct then CH2 & CH3 would also be wrong.
As I stated above, it is just Input and CH1 that have the "S, +, -" connections reversed. If the Input and CH1 plugs are connected with the Signal side going to the "-" pin and the "-" side going to the "S" pin the everything works correctly.
Thanks for the reply, but I still say the labelling is wrong for the input and CH1. If you theory was correct then CH2 & CH3 would also be wrong.
As I stated above, it is just Input and CH1 that have the "S, +, -" connections reversed. If the Input and CH1 plugs are connected with the Signal side going to the "-" pin and the "-" side going to the "S" pin the everything works correctly.
#6
I'm with you on this as just about all current servos, at least those that I have come in contact with have the Positive or + wire in the middle.
Last edited by karolh; 12-13-2018 at 03:42 PM.