READ>>> I HAVE A PROBLEM... YESSSSS I DO!
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READ>>> I HAVE A PROBLEM... YESSSSS I DO!
Although its probably very tempting for the usual haters to flame and bash, because you finally have a chance. I will ask the mods to please shut this thread down as soon as the first sign of flaming occurs.
Now to the point. My first problem with my plane happened today. I got my automatic starter, and went flying. With a full tank, the engine shuts down in the air (5/6 flights). No problem landing it but still...
Other facts that might help are:
It flew perfectly fine yesterday (had NEVER shut down in the air before
Muffler's exhaust rotates slowly (its always done that, probably a little loose)
Maybe the starter forced it too much?
In the ground when i put full throttle, no problem
One of the times it shut down happened when I rapidly switched to full throttle ( didnt happen yesterday, but I know that can be due to bubble etc...)
Yesterday I did alot of tricks, full throttle, stressed the motor alot.
Thats it.
ONLY post if it has happened to you, AND you have fixed it. Post how to fix it.
Now to the point. My first problem with my plane happened today. I got my automatic starter, and went flying. With a full tank, the engine shuts down in the air (5/6 flights). No problem landing it but still...
Other facts that might help are:
It flew perfectly fine yesterday (had NEVER shut down in the air before
Muffler's exhaust rotates slowly (its always done that, probably a little loose)
Maybe the starter forced it too much?
In the ground when i put full throttle, no problem
One of the times it shut down happened when I rapidly switched to full throttle ( didnt happen yesterday, but I know that can be due to bubble etc...)
Yesterday I did alot of tricks, full throttle, stressed the motor alot.
Thats it.
ONLY post if it has happened to you, AND you have fixed it. Post how to fix it.
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RE: READ>>> I HAVE A PROBLEM... YESSSSS I DO!
Hola Gianni, long time no talk.....LOL.........well I've seen your other thread but I'm not goin to say anything except it's too lean....I HAVE had this happen to me before....just go and richen it up a little (you know how to do that right?? (turn HS needle clockwise a few click))......start then engine up, and see it the engine bogs down or anything.....if it takes a while for the engine to get up to speed up, then it is too rich, so oddly engough, you need to lean it out a few clicks...
Hope this helps.....
Hope this helps.....
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RE: READ>>> I HAVE A PROBLEM... YESSSSS I DO!
My instructors always do all the engine needle stuff for me. Next time I'm going to make them show me how it all works if they want to mess with it. Yes, I'm a pain as a student. "Let me land it this time, this is just like FMS!" - Joe
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RE: READ>>> I HAVE A PROBLEM... YESSSSS I DO!
Sup man. Yes, i did mess with the valve, i tuned it until it would do full throttle back and fourth for like 30 secs on the ground with not problem...
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RE: READ>>> I HAVE A PROBLEM... YESSSSS I DO!
You have to remember MinnFlyer, this is the kid that WALKED away from an instructor, and got EXTREMELY PISSED, when he was asked to get his buddy cord.
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RE: READ>>> I HAVE A PROBLEM... YESSSSS I DO!
(turn HS needle clockwise a few click))
to get a richer mixture. I would try what FlyingMonkey posted.
#10
RE: READ>>> I HAVE A PROBLEM... YESSSSS I DO!
I found this some time ago and have posted a few times and know your still pretty new at this stuff so I thought it would be helpful to you and some of the newer people and even the older crowd can use it
Here's a scenario: Pilot takes off, plane's engine sounds great. After several minutes of flying, engine seems to lose power, sounds kinda "thin", pilot keeps flying. Engine continues to sag, now full throttle is very weak, pilot now understands that maybe this isn't gonna clear up. Engine dies (what a shock! ), pilot calls for "deadstick" landing overshoots, tears off landing gear, etc. Never seen this at your field, right?
Here's the way that *I* set mixture on non-airbleed carbed engines (90% of the engines out there fit this category, but the theory is similar for air-bleed carbs). First of all, understand that the high speed needle has its main effect from 3/4 to full throttle, and the low speed needle controls everything from idle up to 3/4 throttle. It thus makes sense to me to spend the biggest majority of my tuning time adjusting the needle that controls the largest portion of engine running, right? Also, remember that there is a proper air to fuel ratio (mixture) that allows the engine to run properly. Too much fuel is rich, and too little fuel is lean. We "richen" the mixture by adding more fuel (turning the needle out, or counter-clockwise), and we "lean the mixture out" by decreasing the fuel (turning the needle valve in, or clockwise).
I start the engine give it full throttle, and lean it to it's highest rpm (peak), then richen it by maybe a quarter turn. Then with the glow plug igniter still attached, I slowly close the throttle to an idle rpm. At the lowest rpm that the engine will still reliably run, I then remove the glow igniter. If the engine dies immediately, I know it's too rich, and I then lean out the LOW SPEED NEEDLE by 1/8th of a turn (don't touch the high speed needle). Start the engine again, (and this is important) give FULL throttle briefly to clear out excess fuel, then slowly close the throttle again. Remove the glow igniter, and this time it may run a little longer before it dies, so lean the low speed another 1/8th turn. Re-fire the engine, give a burst of full throttle to clear it out, and slowly close the throttle again. remove the glow igniter and now notice that the rpm DROPPED a bit when you removed the glow igniter, but the engine kept running. We're getting there. It's still too rich, and you'll prove that by opening up the throttle and hearing the engine "blubber" then die. That's because excess fuel has collected in the crankcase during the rich idle, and when you opened up the throttle, the excess was pulled into the cylinder, making it WAY too rich. Supposed you were on a landing approach, and decided to go around, you throttle up but the engine "blubbers" and then dies (another thing we haven't seen, right?). Yep, the LOW SPEED needle was still too rich, allowing excess fuel to collect in the crankcase, just WAITING on you to try to go around so it could "LOAD UP", blubber, and die!
Keep leaning the low speed needle down until it idles well, but now, when you open up the throttle, it HESITATES instead of BLUBBERS. When this happens, you've lean it down too far, so richen it up 1/16th of a turn and try again. You know you've got the LOW SPEED needle right when you can fire it up, remove the glow igniter, and the rpm doesn't change AT ALL, and you can open the throttle up, and it doesn't blubber or hesitate, it just runs!
The final thing you do is re-adjust the HIGH SPEED NEEDLE, leaning it to it's highest rpm (peak) and then richening it up maybe 1/8th turn to give it a slightly rich mixture. We also know that the fuel mixture will change in flight when you point the nose up (harder for fuel to travel uphill) and also as the fuel level in the tank changes. In both cases, a leaner mixture results, so we actually need to set the mixture a bit further on the rich side to account for this. While the engine is running at full throttle, CAREFULLY pick the model up and raise the nose to at least a 45 degree angle while listening to the engine. If the engine sags a bit, then you'll need to richen up the high speed needle 1/16th turn. Try it again, and when you can point the nose up and the engine doesn't sag, but maybe shows a slight GAIN in rpm, you know you've got it right.
Now the engine will be happy, and chances are will reward you with reliable running. If you've got one of the few engines with an air bleed adjustment for low speed adjustment, the theory is the same, just refer to your manual to see how to richen and lean the low speed mixture.
Dauntae
Here's a scenario: Pilot takes off, plane's engine sounds great. After several minutes of flying, engine seems to lose power, sounds kinda "thin", pilot keeps flying. Engine continues to sag, now full throttle is very weak, pilot now understands that maybe this isn't gonna clear up. Engine dies (what a shock! ), pilot calls for "deadstick" landing overshoots, tears off landing gear, etc. Never seen this at your field, right?
Here's the way that *I* set mixture on non-airbleed carbed engines (90% of the engines out there fit this category, but the theory is similar for air-bleed carbs). First of all, understand that the high speed needle has its main effect from 3/4 to full throttle, and the low speed needle controls everything from idle up to 3/4 throttle. It thus makes sense to me to spend the biggest majority of my tuning time adjusting the needle that controls the largest portion of engine running, right? Also, remember that there is a proper air to fuel ratio (mixture) that allows the engine to run properly. Too much fuel is rich, and too little fuel is lean. We "richen" the mixture by adding more fuel (turning the needle out, or counter-clockwise), and we "lean the mixture out" by decreasing the fuel (turning the needle valve in, or clockwise).
I start the engine give it full throttle, and lean it to it's highest rpm (peak), then richen it by maybe a quarter turn. Then with the glow plug igniter still attached, I slowly close the throttle to an idle rpm. At the lowest rpm that the engine will still reliably run, I then remove the glow igniter. If the engine dies immediately, I know it's too rich, and I then lean out the LOW SPEED NEEDLE by 1/8th of a turn (don't touch the high speed needle). Start the engine again, (and this is important) give FULL throttle briefly to clear out excess fuel, then slowly close the throttle again. Remove the glow igniter, and this time it may run a little longer before it dies, so lean the low speed another 1/8th turn. Re-fire the engine, give a burst of full throttle to clear it out, and slowly close the throttle again. remove the glow igniter and now notice that the rpm DROPPED a bit when you removed the glow igniter, but the engine kept running. We're getting there. It's still too rich, and you'll prove that by opening up the throttle and hearing the engine "blubber" then die. That's because excess fuel has collected in the crankcase during the rich idle, and when you opened up the throttle, the excess was pulled into the cylinder, making it WAY too rich. Supposed you were on a landing approach, and decided to go around, you throttle up but the engine "blubbers" and then dies (another thing we haven't seen, right?). Yep, the LOW SPEED needle was still too rich, allowing excess fuel to collect in the crankcase, just WAITING on you to try to go around so it could "LOAD UP", blubber, and die!
Keep leaning the low speed needle down until it idles well, but now, when you open up the throttle, it HESITATES instead of BLUBBERS. When this happens, you've lean it down too far, so richen it up 1/16th of a turn and try again. You know you've got the LOW SPEED needle right when you can fire it up, remove the glow igniter, and the rpm doesn't change AT ALL, and you can open the throttle up, and it doesn't blubber or hesitate, it just runs!
The final thing you do is re-adjust the HIGH SPEED NEEDLE, leaning it to it's highest rpm (peak) and then richening it up maybe 1/8th turn to give it a slightly rich mixture. We also know that the fuel mixture will change in flight when you point the nose up (harder for fuel to travel uphill) and also as the fuel level in the tank changes. In both cases, a leaner mixture results, so we actually need to set the mixture a bit further on the rich side to account for this. While the engine is running at full throttle, CAREFULLY pick the model up and raise the nose to at least a 45 degree angle while listening to the engine. If the engine sags a bit, then you'll need to richen up the high speed needle 1/16th turn. Try it again, and when you can point the nose up and the engine doesn't sag, but maybe shows a slight GAIN in rpm, you know you've got it right.
Now the engine will be happy, and chances are will reward you with reliable running. If you've got one of the few engines with an air bleed adjustment for low speed adjustment, the theory is the same, just refer to your manual to see how to richen and lean the low speed mixture.
Dauntae
#13
RE: READ>>> I HAVE A PROBLEM... YESSSSS I DO!
If the end of the muffler is rotating around in flight then I'd also check to make sure that the nut and bolt that hold it together (the bolt runs the lateral length of the muffler and the nut goes on the tail end) is tight. Don't want that falling off in the middle of a flight if you can avoid it
Good luck,
Neil.
Good luck,
Neil.
#14
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RE: READ>>> I HAVE A PROBLEM... YESSSSS I DO!
Of course, by running the engine too lean so early in it's life, you just MAY have shortened it's lifespan considerably. But, I'm sure you already knew that.
A good club instructor would have prevented you from running it too lean. But I'm sure you knew that too.
A good club instructor would have prevented you from running it too lean. But I'm sure you knew that too.
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RE: READ>>> I HAVE A PROBLEM... YESSSSS I DO!
You have to remember MinnFlyer, this is the kid that WALKED away from an instructor, and got EXTREMELY PISSED, when he was asked to get his buddy cord.
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RE: READ>>> I HAVE A PROBLEM... YESSSSS I DO!
If you havnt already solved the problem, give us more details like exactly what happened .
If you were flying how long did it fly before it knocked out.
It sounds like a typical lean setting on the high speed needle valve, it is possible to set your engine on the ground hold th nose up at full throttle and all seems right , shortly after, the engine starts lagging, loosing power, and it just seems like it lost a lot of power .
I would refil the fuel tank to about 1/3 of a tank, start the engine, set the high speed needle valve, hold the nose up at approx. 45deg angle and wait a few seconds if the engine stays strong and does not change shut it down refil the tank and off you go again. Hope this helps good luck
If you were flying how long did it fly before it knocked out.
It sounds like a typical lean setting on the high speed needle valve, it is possible to set your engine on the ground hold th nose up at full throttle and all seems right , shortly after, the engine starts lagging, loosing power, and it just seems like it lost a lot of power .
I would refil the fuel tank to about 1/3 of a tank, start the engine, set the high speed needle valve, hold the nose up at approx. 45deg angle and wait a few seconds if the engine stays strong and does not change shut it down refil the tank and off you go again. Hope this helps good luck
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RE: READ>>> I HAVE A PROBLEM... YESSSSS I DO!
ORIGINAL: MinnFlyer
Of course, by running the engine too lean so early in it's life, you just MAY have shortened it's lifespan considerably. But, I'm sure you already knew that.
A good club instructor would have prevented you from running it too lean. But I'm sure you knew that too.
Of course, by running the engine too lean so early in it's life, you just MAY have shortened it's lifespan considerably. But, I'm sure you already knew that.
A good club instructor would have prevented you from running it too lean. But I'm sure you knew that too.
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RE: READ>>> I HAVE A PROBLEM... YESSSSS I DO!
One thing I would recommend is flying with a few very experienced pilots and letting them help you. Everything I've learned in this hobby was taught to me by another pilot. Lots of great people out there have been there done that and you don't necessarily ever need to re-invent the wheel.
#21
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RE: READ>>> I HAVE A PROBLEM... YESSSSS I DO!
Birddog,
You're wasting your breath. He's told us all a number of times that he doesn't "need help" learning how to fly. Even got pissed at the instructor he had and stormed off, because the instructor asked him to get a "buddy Cord".
Ranted at many of us who tried to offer help with his engine/prop problems too.
Dennis-
You're wasting your breath. He's told us all a number of times that he doesn't "need help" learning how to fly. Even got pissed at the instructor he had and stormed off, because the instructor asked him to get a "buddy Cord".
Ranted at many of us who tried to offer help with his engine/prop problems too.
Dennis-
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RE: READ>>> I HAVE A PROBLEM... YESSSSS I DO!
It seems to me it isn't your flying ability but your attitude that has caused the flaming here. I think its great you are enjoying this hobby so much but there are a few things you need to learn and it seems to me you are having a hard time of it.
1. You should fly at approved airfields only. Flying just anywhere you find space sounds easiest but what if you crash and damage someones house, car or heaven forbid hurt someone. You could also damage the hobby by making people mad and getting R/C banned in your area.
2. Whether you believe it or not, there are people out there who know more than you and can be a great resource for help and friendship. The best part about this hobby is the numerous friends I have met with similar interests. You will remember the friends long after the planes are gone.
3. You are putting your plane at risk. How are you controlling what frequencies are being used in the areas in which you are flying? Flying fields have such controls but you are missing out on that added benefit. Park flyers are everywhere and you are just asking for a crash while a child and his dad are flying a plane in the park next to you.
We are not disappointed with the fact that you can fly. That's great! We are however very disappointed in the way you behave or at least claim to behave in what needs to be a disciplined environment. Your attitude could very well damage the rights of others to fly R/C in your area . Be a part of the greater team my friend... it will be of much more worth to you throughout your life. Now... if I've wasted my breath well then that is sad but if you listened to even a small portion of this then it was worth it. Happy RESPONSIBLE flying...
1. You should fly at approved airfields only. Flying just anywhere you find space sounds easiest but what if you crash and damage someones house, car or heaven forbid hurt someone. You could also damage the hobby by making people mad and getting R/C banned in your area.
2. Whether you believe it or not, there are people out there who know more than you and can be a great resource for help and friendship. The best part about this hobby is the numerous friends I have met with similar interests. You will remember the friends long after the planes are gone.
3. You are putting your plane at risk. How are you controlling what frequencies are being used in the areas in which you are flying? Flying fields have such controls but you are missing out on that added benefit. Park flyers are everywhere and you are just asking for a crash while a child and his dad are flying a plane in the park next to you.
We are not disappointed with the fact that you can fly. That's great! We are however very disappointed in the way you behave or at least claim to behave in what needs to be a disciplined environment. Your attitude could very well damage the rights of others to fly R/C in your area . Be a part of the greater team my friend... it will be of much more worth to you throughout your life. Now... if I've wasted my breath well then that is sad but if you listened to even a small portion of this then it was worth it. Happy RESPONSIBLE flying...