ORIGINAL: PMDrive1061

OK! Got the manual...here are the boo-boos.

*Page 1 - do you really want to shoot a foamie with "modelspray?"

*Page 6 - don't cut a pushrod tube down to 25cm. WAY too short for that half of the fuselage. And, don't glue the forward end of the tube to the fuselage half. The tubes need to be able to cross up later on. Step 8 instructs you to "please check the decal part (page 26) put on the decal of fuselage parts for better decal and assembly." I think that meant to put on the decals. I did the windows at that point and added the stripes after I finished the rest of the fuselage.

*Page 10 - no "paper tape" comes with the kit. I used white 3M plastic "repair tape" on the wing's reinforcement rod. Looks and works great!

*Page 12 - weird. Just weird. The male B-5 part winds up attaching to the wing. The two female B-4 parts go in the fuselage. Two B-5's are included, one for each wing.

*Page 15 - Step 8 tells you to cut a 1mm deep slot in the elevator. I could not for the life of me figure out why until I realized it was for the wire that joins the two halves of the elevator.

*Page 16 - IMPORTANT! Step 1 forgets to tell you that most or all of the ribs of the battery tray need to be removed before you can put any kind of battery pack in the plane, including the recommended Ni-Mh. Removing the center rib makes a perfect fit for a 1500mAh lipo and makes the CG right on the money. Not mentioned at all.

*Page 17 - set the nosewheel alignment in relationship to what, exactly? Turns out the relationship is to the hole the pushrod uses to come through the firewall. It's up to you to install the nosewheel bracket nice and straight. No pilot holes.

*Page 20 - You'd best make sure your ESC will pass through the hole in the firewall before you solder it to the motor, unless you're using plug-in connectors. Step 10 tells you to use a 1.47x9mm wood screw to attach the gearbox to the stick...after you drill a 1.2mm pilot hole, of course. Get out your metric ruler, because there's no full-sized reference to what that screw looks like. It's also bigger than 1.47mm around. Wound up using a wood screw closer to 3mm diameter.

*Page 21 - The screws used on the cowl are actually the 1.47x9 mistakenly mentioned in Step 10. Tiny little things and still no reference. There is a reference back on the parts listing page, so all is not lost. They really need to take a lesson from Tamiya in that regard.

*Page 22- Step 4 tells you to install a clevis to the threaded end of a pushrod. It doesn't tell you that you need to bend a zig-zag in the rod in order for it to line up with the rudder's control horn. Minor quibble under most circumstances, but not here given the number of other omissions and mistakes.

*Page 23 - Near-useless photo in Step 5 points out exactly why you didn't want to tack down the forward ends of the pushrod tubes. Ignore all the instructions about making z-bends. It's way too hard without the proper tool and no dimensions are given as to how much of the rod should actually be cut off. I thought the pushrod tubes were going to tear right out of the back of the tail section. Get some Du-Bro fastners instead so you can actually adjust the rods once they're in place.

*Page 24 - If you're installing flaps, you're going to all but laugh at the instructions for how to make a double pushrod.

I hope all of this helps. If anyone cares to add to this, please do.