NJAIRSTRIKE

My Feedback: (2)

I would 1st like to say this is a great site and I read a lot of threads before actually joining the site. I have been doing R/C Trucks & Cars for a while now and descided to make a little change and try airplanes. I heard Car controlers are very simular to planes except for The airplane controller looking like a controller and the car conotroller looking like a gun controller. I heard a lot of good things about the SIG Kadet LT. I have my eyes on that. I noticed that there is a SIG Kadet LT KIT and a ARF. As a person who know's NOTHING about planes what would you recommend and whats the difference? Like Cars I always prefer getting a kit because you learn more about your plane and this way if you run into a problem you know where to check and whats wrong. With a RTF you can always take it apart and put it back together, not sure if you can do that with a airplane but I dont see Y not. I know you guys recommend a ARF over a RTF but when I put together an ARF like a KIT for 131.99, A good radio system 6EXA 6Ch FM/4 S3004 36 72510 for 179.99 and an OS .40 LA for 51.99 which is a total of $363.97 I guess a ARF is worth it because you do have a better radio system that you can use with other planes.

P.S I live in JERSEY so we have about 10 INCHES OF SNOW!!! I look forward to flying it in the snow. Atleast as a beginner if I do crash I have some CUSION haha

JaredM25

My Feedback: (26)

Howdy, Same here about the snow here on Long Island[]
Well about your questions, a kit is pretty much a box of wood, for you to put together and cover. An ARF comes covered and all you glue together are a few things, install engine and radio and you're good to go. A kit is definitely alot more work. What you did mention about the radio is correct...Thats an awesome, affordable first radio. What i don't recommend is the engine you have chosen. It will work of coarse, its a reliable engine, but it does lack power. If you are planning on getting a second plane and transferring the gear, even if the plane is a .40 sized it would not be much fun with the 40 LA..You can get an OS .46 AX, or another option is one of the Thunder Tiger engines...Pretty much identical to the OS...Both have a lot of power, and both are very reliable. That is all in my opinion of course though...Ask if you have any more questions..hope it helps..Jared

mlawrencemsc

My Feedback: (19)

Theres an upside to everything. Way to go Airstrike.

NJAIRSTRIKE

My Feedback: (2)

Thank you Guys, I will go with the OS .46 AX.

piper_chuck

My Feedback: (12)

First, Sig makes great products. If you have the time, and desire, to build, go for a kit. Otherwise, choose an ARF for your first plane and buy a kit for the second. This will get you in the air faster and you won't have as much time invested in the building phase of learning. Good choice for the radio, I've got one and it works great. The OS 46 will work well in a trainer and gives you lots of options for future planes. Are you going to buy from a local shop or online?

Fastsky

Re: ARF vs. kit. The ARF will probably be cheaper to get together ready for flight however I only suggest starting out with an ARF if its the start of flying season with no time to build. Its winter so I suggest going with a kit. The instructions for trainers like the LT40 make it easy for almost any one to get a plane together that will fly well. The parts are numbered and the instructions include pictures of the parts so you know what the part looks like. When you have glued together each part in the kit, installed the control rods and made the proper adjustments, you "do" know exacly what is in your plane and how it fits together. Now if the plane lands too hard and pops the landing gear, you have a pretty good idea of how to fix it! This also helps for other planes down the road even if they are arfs because you know how to glue parts together and you know the basic construction of planes. If you go the ARf route for your first plane and the landing gear pops out, you will probably be scratching your head wondering what to do! Does this make sense?? Also building a plane over the winter is a great way to keep busy in this hobby and adds another plane for your hangar. I am working on 2 from plans right now. The 46AX is a good choice btw! As far as radios, even a basic 4 channel radio can be used with other planes, you just need another receiver that is on the same frequency as you radio and a receiver battery for the plane. Also remember that buddy boxes can't do dual rates, exponetial, ect. so until you solo the computer radio will only be using the basic controls. I have 8 planes and half of them are setup for my 4 channel and the other half use my 6 channel. I actually only need the 5th channel for flaps on one of my planes. The others are only using 4 channels.

NJAIRSTRIKE

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks. Well I plan on getting all my stuff from tower hobbies using the discounts makes a pretty good deal I guess. Now I am debating betweeen a ARF or a KIT. If I do descide to go with a KIT what items would I need to Complete the kit? Since its FREEZING in NJ and lots snow, I guess I can go with a KIT. If its alot more expensive I might stick with an ARF?

Fastsky

The price difference is actually pretty close. The LT40 kits are very complete and includes lots of the needed hardware such as fuel tanks, ect. I would go with 12 minute epoxy, 9 oz. You will also need 3 rolls of Monocoat covering. Then of course you will need at least a 4 channel radio system with 4 servos, a 46 size engine, either Thunder Tiger PRo 46 or an OS 46 AX. For props I would use a MasterAirscrew 11-5. These items will give you a good start and maybe others want to jump in with some advice. [8D]

NJAIRSTRIKE

My Feedback: (2)

Hey fast, I would probably need 4 rolls of Monocoat covering in case I make mistakes? Wouldent I also need Xacto knife? or I can use a regular scissors? how about a heat iron? can I use the one we normaly use for clothes?

So far I got
6EXA 6Ch FM/4 S3004 36 72510
O.S. .46 AX ABL w/Muffler
Sig Kadet LT-40 Kit .30-.40,70"
Northeast Hobby Products Epoxy 12 Minute 8 oz.
Top Flite MonoKote Black 6'
Top Flite MonoKote Insignia Blue 6'
Top Flite MonoKote Aluminum 6'
12 X Master Airscrew 11x5 G/F Nylon Propeller

So far its only about a 10 dollar increase.
Would I need anything else?

Besides the basic fuel and glow plugs...

IBrakeForNobody

My Feedback: (16)

For a covering iron, you can use a regular iron set to the wool setting and put a old t-shirt over it to prevent burns and it will keep the iron clean. I did it for a while then spent $15 and got a covering iron. Now my mom doesn't get mad at me for stealing the iron . Also, you might want to buy some CA (cyanoacrilate) gule for reinforcing. Happy Flying!

NJAIRSTRIKE

My Feedback: (2)

haha, U know whats funny, I was thinking about that. I was like.. HHmm if I used my moms iron she's going to kill me.. I think i'm better off getting one lol

keepiru1

Especially if you melted Monocote on it and didn't tell her.......that smell and color don't come out.....it was Cub Yellow *LOL*

BadAtti2de

Also for covering, and fixing mistakes in the covering (wrinkles) is a heat gun. Yes you could use a hair dryer but it doesnt as hot. Home depot has good cheap heat guns. Once I used one, covering became very easy.

DBCherry

My Feedback: (4)

You haven't mentioned joining a local club and getting an instructor. Flying is quite a bit harder than just steering an RC vehicle around on the ground, and I don't want to see you turn that ARF into a "kit", or "re-kit" your kit.

By the way, for a first timer you can expect to spend 40 to 50 hours putting most ARF's together and getting them "ready to fly". For a kit it would take more like 200 to 250.

Here's some stuff you'll need to build a kit, and most of it for an ARF. WHat you don't use for the ARF, you'll need for your first kit anyway.

Glues: 30 minute and 5 minute epoxy, with something to mix it on and with, (old plastic lids and wooden coffee stirrers, plus small plumbers' acid brushes). Thin CA. (Not "Superglue".) You can substitute wood glue for the CA, but it adds time to the build. Medium CA will also come in handy.

Tools: XActo knife and extra number 11 blades. (Buy a box of 100, it's cheaper and you'll use them.) Razor saw; Kona or XActo. Kona is better. Steel straight edge, 18". A ruler will work but.... Sanding block and various grits of sandpaper. (80, 120, 200, 400.) Screw drivers, small and medium sizes, both flat and phillips types. Pliers, needle nose and regular. (At least one pair with side cutters for wire.) A good set of Allen or hex wrenches. (IMO, Ball drivers are a bit better if you can find a good set.) A "Dremel" type rotary tool will help a lot if you can shell out the extra dollars.

Covering tools: A sealing iron. A Trim iron will help too if you can swing both. A Heat gun made for covering. (Blow dryers don't really get hot enough.) More of those #11 blades for your XActo knife if you didn't buy the box of 100.

Check the kit (or ARF) contents. Most will have a list of extras you'll need to buy; like wheels, fuel tank (& size), fuel line, etc...

By the way. You should buy the engine and radio equipment when you get the plane. You'll need them all to finish the plane, and in some cases, you’ll need them to get started. Buy an engine on the larger size of the recommended range.

Some type of "flight box". (A plastic tool box of appropriate size and design works well.) Some good ones at Lowe’s or Home Depot. A gallon of 10% fuel, a fuel pump, manual or electric and fuel line (3 feet minimum). A glow igniter with charger. Although not 'necessary', I highly recommend a 12 volt starter for the engine, because most new engines are quite hard to start with a “chicken stick�, and it’s one more headache you don’t need when beginning.

If you buy a 'self contained' glow ignitor and starter, and a manual fuel pump, you won't need to buy a 12 volt battery with charger, nor a "power panel" to connect everything. (And you won't have cords dangling around your prop when trying to start the engine.) Also pick up an Expanded Scale Volt Meter (ESV). they're pretty cheap at around $15, and you'll wnat to check your battery capacity before every flight.

Then, get a few props of slightly different diameters and pitch (in the recommended range). The engine directions should give you a range of appropriate sizes for your engine. One or two extra glow plugs should last you through the learning process.

Good luck, and welcome to RCU!
Dennis-

NJAIRSTRIKE

My Feedback: (2)

any beginner like myself who may be interested in a good trainer along with a good radio and engine this is what I got. I got everythingi at TOWER HOBBIES which have pretty good prices compared to other places I checked.

6EXA 6Ch FM/4 S3004 36 72510
O.S. .46 AX ABL w/Muffler
Sig Kadet LT-40 Kit .30-.40,70"
Northeast Hobby Products Epoxy 12 Minute 8 oz.
Top Flite MonoKote Black 6'
Top Flite MonoKote Insignia Blue 6'
Top Flite MonoKote Aluminum 6'
12 X Master Airscrew 11x5 G/F Nylon Propeller

I paid a total of 414.97.

I used a promotional code on towerhobbies where you get $25.00 off of $150.00 or more. that code is 010EM.

Daryl_y

First of all welcome to the hobby, and I think you have made some great choices in your equipment so far. I know covering is a long ways away but lets talk about the colors you want to use. All the colors that you bought insignia blue, aluminium and black will look great together but also will make your plane very hard to see when its in the air on a clear day let alone a cloudy one. I recomend that you color at least the bottom of the plane (bottom of the wing, fuse and stabs) with a bright color no body will see it on the ground and you will be able to see it much better in the air.

Ed_Moorman

My Feedback: (1)

I have taught a lot of people how to fly and I always recommend an ARF.

The problem with building a kit for your first plane is the quality of building. Many times I have seen planes that the owner thought were built correctly, but were un-flyable, warps in the wing, pushrods too flexable, wing hold-downs not glued in strongly enough and on and on. With an ARF, I have a decent chance of giving the guy a flight on his first day. I really hate to send someone home who has come out hoping to see his creation fly.

On the other hand, if you have someone with RC flight experience that can supervise your building and insure you get the plane flight worthy, go for a kit.

piper_chuck

My Feedback: (12)

As I started reading your post this is exactly what I was thinking. Glad you said it. I hate to see people who are interested in building discouraged by those who say the only way to go is with an ARF. Obviously many people got started in this hobby by building their own planes. ARFs have opened the hobby up to those who can't, or don't want to, build. Even though current "wisdom" says ARFs are the way to go, if someone wants to build a kit I think it's great.

DBCherry

My Feedback: (4)

Normally I'd agree with you Ed, but the instructions and the quality of the LT-40 make it pretty difficult to screw up.

As long as he follows the instructions, and doesn't rush it, it should come out very fly-able.
Dennis-

magicflyboy

CAN SOMEONE TELL ME WERE I CAN GET INFORMATION ON EXPONENTIAL. i HAVE TWO FUTABA RADIOS. ONE IS A 9C HELI AND ONE IS A 9C SUPER. THE MANUEL DOES NOT GIVE A GOOD EXPLANATION ON HOW TO USE EXPONENTIAL. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

DENNIS

Fastsky

Re: " Top Flite MonoKote Black 6' and Top Flite MonoKote Insignia Blue 6' for colors. Black is self explanatory. The Insignia Blue will turn almost black at a distance. In other words you will have a plane that looks almost completly black when the plane gets out a ways. Makes it hard to keep track of the orientation of the plane. Would work close in on sunny days but if its cloudy and the plane gets out a ways.... poof, the plane disappears! I would suggest a bright color such as Neon Yellow to go with the Insignia Blue to make a good contrast instead of Black. Maybe take a look at some posted plane pics to see what works well together before you order the covering. This is my Zero with Metallic Blue and Neon Yellow just to give an idea. [8D]

rlipsett

exponential changes the servo response to stick movement. It will not change the amount of throw of the servo but it will change how the servo moves with the stick. usually the servo moves linearly with the stick movement but with expo you can soften up how much the servo moves when you move the stick near the centers. This is negative expo and is good for flying a plane with high rates and still being controllable. As the stick nears the ends of travel the servo will respond faster until it reaches full travel at the same time the stick reaches full travel. If using pos expo then the servo moves a lot with the initial movement and slows down near the end of stick movement