hoppy

I've just started building a Sig 4 * 60 and have some questions. Anyone that has built this kit could really help me out here...

Some of the drawings show the spars flush with the wing tip and 1st rib, but after pinning down the spars they stick out from each end rib. Nothing in the instructions says to cut the excess off. Is this just assumed?

Also, The wing trailing edge 3/32 x 2 x 36 is 1/4 in wider than the drawings and the instructions says it can be cut with a long straight edge. But the pictures show this not cut. I think it will have to be in order to get the hinges in. Anyone remeber this one?

Anyone notice that in the instructions their plan shows right wing, but when looking at my instuctions for the right wing it would have to be a left wing in the instructions?

In general, how when placing the ribs on the spars how close should each come to the lines drawn on the plan? I've placed them and for the most part all are close to the lines on the drawing, but I can't get each one exactly there. I would say that the worst one is only 1/16 in out on one end.

Are there any tips you could provide me for my first try at building?

Thanks.

Buz^

My Feedback: (2)

OK first you should read completely through the instructions before starting the building process, It's a good habit to get into while becoming a model builder. I've built prob. 25 planes and still do this , even with the most basic kit's.Anyhoo, run the spar's out past the last rib, at wing tip, to be cut off later. Don't cut them individually, wait till there all glued and take a razor saw and cut them all at once, there's a ply end cap that covers the end of the rib, make sure to sand the left over spar 's flush with rib. Now, at the trailing edge.use a straight edge if you need to , but it's easy to just free hand with your razor knife(use a new blade). don't concern your self with a perfect cut, leave a bit to sand flush, The sheet material is soft and will sand flush with trailing edge very easy (USE A SANDING BLOCK).always CHECK THE BOX ON THE INSTRUCTION MANUAL AFTER YOU FINISH THE PROCEDURE. The ones that are for wing building have 2 boxes, At the end it will say to repeat process with other wing. you have planes and instructions, there's no need for pictures of both wing halves in the manual. good luck and happy flying. Buz^

MinnFlyer

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Ditto

hoppy

Thanks, that helps. Just wanted to make sure. But what about the part where the ribs are a little off (1/16 in at worse spot). The only way I know of to get them exact would be to cut the slots wider where some of the ribs are off. I'm afraid I could make it worse.

uonlylivetwice

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Hoppy, do you mean the 'back' of the rib does not quite reach to where the plans show the trailing edge being attached??

Buz^

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I'm not sure I follow you, The 4* is one of the best cut kit's in the world?? Are you saying when you set the rib's on the spar's the rib's don't line up perfect with the planes? If so , no biggie, the spar's are soft and ply able enough to bent to match the plan's exactly, do so then pin in place . You should get a real good match with the plan's , PS. I alway's pin the main spar to the plan first, this way everything will automatically line up . READ YOUR INSTRUCTIONS , THEN READ THEM AGAIN , These items are addressed in there. Buz^

hoppy

I have read the instructions through. Some pages more than once but since this is my first kit, and the book instructions are marginal, I just would like to be sure before I start gluing.

The main and rear spar are pinned down exactly on the plan. When placing the main "ribbed" spar (has the slots that the ribs sit into) onto the main spar and butt it against the doubler, then add the ribs, there is one rib, to the fuselage side of the spar, that is about 1/32 to 1/16 in outside the line of the plan. (after placing the D1 and D2 cross supports). The only thing I can think of is the doubler sub assy is a tad long where the doubler ends, but it lines up with the plan too......

I might be making too much of this, as I haven't glued anything yet, I might be able to hold them in place with a little force while gluing.

Oh yeah, one more thing. There is nothing keeping the ribs perpindicular to the board. The ribbed spar holds in but the rib can still be tilted back and forth a little. Are you just supposed to eyeball for straightness?

bgorham

I hear you about stuff not lining up. The best advice is keep that main spar straight and insure the ribs are spaced properly, and perfectly perpendicular. Use a drafting triangle, or cut a triangle alignment jig to help with that. Plans do shrink and stretch during the scanning and copying process so be a little leary there.
Any irregularities can be straightend out with some sanding and trimming.

Keep cruising on the build, and take your time. Also look at the kit building forum, there are lots of tips on putting that 4 star together.

Good luck ... Bo

hoppy

Thanks eveyone for input.

Now I will glue that 2 deg 1st Rib ........

DGrant

My Feedback: (4)

Guys...and hoppy...
......remember..the plans themselves expand and contract slightly due to the nature of paper, and how it reacts to humidity/dryness in the climate. Some companies will lay claim to this, and some don't mention it. Being a printer myself though, I can tell you..it's fact. Ever slight sometimes, and sometimes it's very obvious. All paper plans are printed on is NOT created equally.
Whatever you do on one side of the wing for rib placement...do it to the other. It's a precisely cut kit, and the dimension of the plans will change well before the dimension of the pre-cut component. Your plane will end up fine, if you just make the right side same as left, regardless of the plans, do use them for a definate guideline though..for sure. Reduction, and enlargement occurs everyday in the printing world too, unbeknownst to some.
If your a line or so off on your wing lay-out, make a note as to the locations, and carry it on to the next half. Don't stress a component that's supposed to fit a certain way because it won't line up exactly on the plans.
Now...If your more then a printed line off(1/16" or so, give or take), then there could be a problem...but as far as exactness in pre-cut components to the plans...the plans can change slightly.
The change is usually more prevalent on longer lines, depending on the grain of the paper/plans. I do hope this helps

TennCharlie

Hoppy... I just built the 4 Star 60 as my first kit also. I had the same problem about the ends overhanging at first. It is in the instructions, but it is very easy to miss if you are just skimming through. If you haven't already, read the instructions all the way through just like a book. You WILL find all the information you need. If not, it will be on the plans.
It's a great plane & you'll love it. I put a Saito .91FS in mine & it has gobs of power.

CaptKAOS

My Feedback: (7)

A neat tip for aligning ribs at 90 degrees....get some L shaped reinforcing brackets from Wally World or a discount lumber yard...
they come in several sizes....and they are really handy....

ebeygin

I just got my four star 60 also a couple days ago.. i'm finished my first wing...

it's also my first kit....

i had the same problem as you.....

honestly.. i was very afraid in the begining... cause i noticed that the last rib is off by 1/16.. and the rest were all ready glued.. but then i did a little reading.. and stop worrying....

just make the other wing the same lenght......

i also have a slight bent... since i wasn't building on a flat surface.. my second wing will be build FLAT this time... and as for the first one.. i will straighten it out by wetting it.....

if you have any questions,, email me .. ([email protected])

if I have any.. i'll send you a message

later!