ICE_MAN

Oh I think he may have been saying the Pliers wont work with 4-40... If so thats easy to do manually with some Vice-Grip and needle Nose pliers

bruce88123

I would think a good tight bend would tend to make them want to crack. If you have made them work, then I stand corrected.

ICE_MAN

Yeah they worked fine for me..... But may not for everyone else.. Maybe Mountaineer Should solder? Like I said I've done the L-bends on one plane.. And Z-bends on ONE pushrod.. So results may vary..

cwrr5

My Feedback: (32)

Go with solder - much less frustrating. Use a good 60/40 electrical, rosin core solder, it's just as strong and is cheaper than silver solder. I've never had a problem with any joint ever breaking using it over the past 15+ years and more planes than I can count. If you need help with the soldering process, this is where your club comes in handy - it's difficult to explain and demonstrate via the infernalnet.

Great build so far, looking forward to more progress! [8D]

MountaineerFan36

here is my first attempt for the solder clevis on the right wing. It looks like a mangled mess of solder...but it seems to be pretty dang strong!

Take a look and let me know what you think

jbloom

I think it looks ok. As long as you saw the solder draw up into the connection and not just pile up onto metal, you'll be fine. One trick to soldering is making sure what you're trying to solder is hot enough. Some will melt the solder with the iron and let it drip onto the work, that's not gonna hold. While attending an electronics class, it was always told to us to place the iron under what you want to solder, and then touch the solder to the work, not the iron. When it melted, it's hot enough. The flux mentioned earlier will ensure a good capilary action and bond.

cwrr5

My Feedback: (32)

Yessss.... but don't use quite so much next time. Let the heat of the iron do the work.

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Like they said above, you want the solder to "flow" into the joint. Heat the area with your soldering iron and apply the solder to the where the clevis meets the control rod (see diagram). The work is hot enough when the solder melts and flows into the area under the clevis. There should just be a small bead of solder around the end of the clevis. It may take a little practice, but you'll get it.

Ken

MountaineerFan36

I'm not 100% sure I got the solder to flow into the joint. I may have to redo this. It just seems pretty strong...but I'm gonna trust you guys and give it another shot.

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

Mountaineer,

What everyone is talking about is called "sweating". It takes practice and a torch does make this allot easier and faster but the iron works fine. You'll know when you have it. You'll see the solder flow between the control rod and the clevis and it will act just like it's water. Once it flows, remove the heat and let it cool. The solder will take within seconds but it must be completely cool to the touch before you try to pull it apart.

Your doing just fine. [sm=thumbup.gif]

rjm1982

Mountaneer...just heat it...and spin the clevis around...the solder you put on will work its way down...and then when it cools...butter...your done

MountaineerFan36

alright...second attempt. Definately had some capillary and flowage (not sure if that is a word) action on this try!

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

BINGO!!!!

We have a winner!! There you go!!

Ken

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

Dang, And I just went and made him a crappy video using a torch and took pics

Looks great

MountaineerFan36

man...sorry bubba. Maybe you could post the video anyhow. May help me or others out down the road?

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

Mountaineer

No big deal . I'm not upset about it. Actually I wanted to add a frown face and smilely face to the post but got overzealous with the OK button

Here it is anyway. You'll see the flame change and that's the solder working through the joint. There was no preheat or anything and I really did not have the soldering tip on the iron.

It's a poor camera but you'll get the idea

Please right click and do save as on the link.

http://www.krcs748.com/soldering.avi

MountaineerFan36

wow...that torch really heated up the clevis fast. Seemed like it took a lot longer with my iron. Thanks for doing that Bubba!

Ok guys.....I've reached a milestone. I'm at the point in the instructions where I'm done with the wing and moving on to the fuselage. Yeah!!!!!!!!!!

Here are some pics with everything complete.

BTW How am I doing with my workbench clutter RCKen?

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

[sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif]



That's what I'm talking about!!! Now that's the way to build a plane!!

Ken

Mindwarp

Fantastic job so far! Can't wait to see how it looks when you have the fuselage done too

MountaineerFan36

Hey guys.

I'm working on marking and drilling the holes for the engine mount. You guys have any tricks for making sure the holes are marked where they should be in relation to the thrust and center line? I've got these lines marked on my firewall and I'm using the plan as a guide...but it is a little tough to determine the exact position the mounting holes should be in.

I'm using some clamps to hold the engine in place while I'm positioning the engine over the firewall.

Also if you could take a look at how I have the engine positioned on the mounts. It sits pretty far forward. This is the only way I could see to mount this engine and still have access to the throttle linkage.

Let me know if I'm making to much of this and I'll drill the holes and move on.

carrellh

The plans, or instructions, should tell how far the spinner backplate should be from the firewall. Use that measurement and move the engine slightly forward for throttle linkage clearance if necessary.

ICE_MAN

Last time I had to drill engine holes I used white out.. I "painted" the engine mounting flanges then quicly stuck them on te mount and pulled it off.. Then the area where the holes are will be black and the sorroundings all white.. But you'll want to wait till you get done with the build so if the plane is tailheavy you can mount the engine out in front of the mounts or vise versa..

BTW the wing looks GREAT!

thejetgod

My Feedback: (1)

If you don't have one of these, they really help you mark precisely where you need to drill once you have your engine lined up on the mount exactly where you want it.

[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK378&P=ML]Hole Center Locator[/link]

mimhoff

My Feedback: (3)

MountaineerFan36---

I have been following your build for the last week or so and it has been great. I am in the process of building a 4*60 also. It has been a pretty slow process and I am exactly where you are right now -- mounting the engine to the mounts and firewall. Following this thread has got me motivated to finally complete my 4*. It is amazing how many of the questions you have asked are the same ones I had but never asked. I am going to use this thread to help me get mine completed. So don't stop posting.

Off topic -- (just a little) What camera are you using for your photo attachments -- the pic's are first rate. I apologize if you already answered this -- I scanned your posts and did not see it being asked.


Thanks for the great thread.

Mark

Wine Country Flyer

My Feedback: (5)

On that Four * 60--If you use the after market "four stroke linkage" on the throttle, you won't have to worry about the engine being too close to the fire wall. And a ball joint at the throttle arm of the engine will make it really easy to remove the engine later if need be without changing the setting. I did that with mine-works just great. Try it you'll like it !! John-The Wind Country Flyer