separating and removing dihedral from LT40 wing...
07-17-2005, 04:50 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Davis,
OK
Posts: 896
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
separating and removing dihedral from LT40 wing...
Guys, I've got a spare bolt-on wing for my LT40 (because of a crash a few months ago that totalled the fuse of that aircraft) that I would like to cut one bay out of each side, and also remove the dihedral. My question is this; is there a method I can use to soften the epoxy and take the two wing sections apart at the center joint, or am I going to be stuck with just cutting it in half, and building new end ribs and a new joiner? I'm flying the wings off my second LT40 with the stock wing, and i've got a 4 Star under construction for my second plane, and also a Hangar 9 AT-6 with an Evo .61, but I'd like to play around with this wing on my Kadet and see what happens. Any ideas?
07-17-2005, 05:10 PM
#2
My Feedback: (32)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Marana,
AZ
Posts: 2,150
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: separating and removing dihedral from LT40 wing...
Heat will soften epoxy, but you won't be able to get to it in the center of the wing. Probably going to have to take a saw to it.
Another option is to either buy a new wing from Sig( http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmar...FV4.html?E+Sig $80 - ouch! ), or build one from plans.
Another option is to either buy a new wing from Sig( http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmar...FV4.html?E+Sig $80 - ouch! ), or build one from plans.
07-17-2005, 05:38 PM
#3
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Johns Creek,
GA
Posts: 7,457
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: separating and removing dihedral from LT40 wing...
I cut mine in half....
instead of building new ribs....
we built a new joiner... epoxied that next to the old, cut one...
and then just made a hardwood "V" shaped spacer to fill most of the gap on the top when the two wing halves are held together and filled the rest of the gap with epoxy....
it has held together well...
instead of building new ribs....
we built a new joiner... epoxied that next to the old, cut one...
and then just made a hardwood "V" shaped spacer to fill most of the gap on the top when the two wing halves are held together and filled the rest of the gap with epoxy....
it has held together well...
07-17-2005, 05:43 PM
#4
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Springtown,
TX
Posts: 2,424
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: separating and removing dihedral from LT40 wing...
Jim
you shouldn't have to rebuild the root ribs. If you are careful, and have a band saw, you can cut right through the epoxy wihtout much damage to the wood. Any damage should be minimal. You'll have to do some sanding, or building up, to remove the dihedral anyway! Good luck. Sounds like fun!
you shouldn't have to rebuild the root ribs. If you are careful, and have a band saw, you can cut right through the epoxy wihtout much damage to the wood. Any damage should be minimal. You'll have to do some sanding, or building up, to remove the dihedral anyway! Good luck. Sounds like fun!
07-17-2005, 06:33 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Kingston,
ON, CANADA
Posts: 4,925
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
RE: separating and removing dihedral from LT40 wing...
Run it through the bandsaw as 2 slow says, but you don't need a joiner spar. Cut the covering back about three ins. from the centre on either side. epoxy the two halfs together and let it harden. Put on two layers of 6 oz. glass cloth with finishing epoxy resin squeegied on. and it won't come apart. The one in my avatar was done this way. It's my own design so I had to cut it a couple of times to get it to yaw properly.
07-17-2005, 10:51 PM
#6
Senior Member
My Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Lone Grove,
OK
Posts: 489
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: separating and removing dihedral from LT40 wing...
Low: How many flights you got in now? I hope you're getting to fly lots. I've gotta get to work on my fleet so I can get back out there, I've let too many small repairs add up!
Dad built a fully symmetrical no dyhedral wing for his trainer, works great. I think you'll have some fun with the kadet modifying that wing that survived.
Dad built a fully symmetrical no dyhedral wing for his trainer, works great. I think you'll have some fun with the kadet modifying that wing that survived.
07-18-2005, 07:21 AM
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Davis,
OK
Posts: 896
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: separating and removing dihedral from LT40 wing...
Twistr,
I've lost count!! Been through a gallon and a half of fuel, though so far. I didnt get to fly this weekend, but I'm off today, so I plan to sneak out this afternoon if the weather holds up. Yeah, you need to get em back in the air so we can fly together again! I had forgotten about the wing your Dad built up. I think it'll be a fun little modification to play around with.
I've lost count!! Been through a gallon and a half of fuel, though so far. I didnt get to fly this weekend, but I'm off today, so I plan to sneak out this afternoon if the weather holds up. Yeah, you need to get em back in the air so we can fly together again! I had forgotten about the wing your Dad built up. I think it'll be a fun little modification to play around with.
07-18-2005, 12:00 PM
#8
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Springtown,
TX
Posts: 2,424
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: separating and removing dihedral from LT40 wing...
LOW,
don't let twist get your eyes all watery. He still has 5 or 6 that are ready to fly right now
He has a couple of minor repairs--no biggie. He could fly his pick of planes today, if he wanted. He also has some building to do. Go ahead and ask him about his modified great planes nose dragger. It sure was an AWESOME sight!!!
We had a blast last week, if you can't tell. Maybe we could all fly this weekend or next....
don't let twist get your eyes all watery. He still has 5 or 6 that are ready to fly right now
He has a couple of minor repairs--no biggie. He could fly his pick of planes today, if he wanted. He also has some building to do. Go ahead and ask him about his modified great planes nose dragger. It sure was an AWESOME sight!!!
We had a blast last week, if you can't tell. Maybe we could all fly this weekend or next....
07-18-2005, 02:04 PM
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Davis,
OK
Posts: 896
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: separating and removing dihedral from LT40 wing...
Yeah, I'm quite sure he has an airworthy plane or two in there somewhere!! This weekend is my birthday (Sat), so I think I can probably sneak down to the field on Sunday. Wife's taking me out to dinner Saturday, so I dont think I can do it then, but Sunday looks GOOD!!
Okay twist, let's have the skinny on the modified nose dragger I'm hearin' about!
Okay twist, let's have the skinny on the modified nose dragger I'm hearin' about!
07-18-2005, 06:21 PM
#10
Senior Member
My Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Lone Grove,
OK
Posts: 489
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: separating and removing dihedral from LT40 wing...
Man: Can't keep any secrets around here! :LOL:
OK So I'm coming in for a landing with the wind on my big stick. And I'm a little hot and when I hit the dirt (flying field at South Padre Islands :LOL) the landing gear ripped right off. What was cool about it though, was that the plane had enough speed that the tail kept flying and it flew on the nose wheel only at least another 20 feet or so. Looked awesome!!! :LOL:
Yep, bought some more epoxy for that job. Will likely repair it tonight. Got my Tiger 60 converted to a tail dragger last night, fixing to go balance it at dads and test flight it tomorrow after work.
This weekend on Sunday I have a company picnic at 1pm, so I'm tied up on Sunday afternoon, but I can come out Sunday morning and fly a little before I have to go accross Lake Murray to the lodge!
OK So I'm coming in for a landing with the wind on my big stick. And I'm a little hot and when I hit the dirt (flying field at South Padre Islands :LOL) the landing gear ripped right off. What was cool about it though, was that the plane had enough speed that the tail kept flying and it flew on the nose wheel only at least another 20 feet or so. Looked awesome!!! :LOL:
Yep, bought some more epoxy for that job. Will likely repair it tonight. Got my Tiger 60 converted to a tail dragger last night, fixing to go balance it at dads and test flight it tomorrow after work.
This weekend on Sunday I have a company picnic at 1pm, so I'm tied up on Sunday afternoon, but I can come out Sunday morning and fly a little before I have to go accross Lake Murray to the lodge!
07-18-2005, 10:36 PM
#11
Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Saint Peters ,
MO
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: separating and removing dihedral from LT40 wing...
Didn't give this too much thought but I would tackle the it this way:
1. Cut out the center 3"-4" inches of covering.
2. Cut the wing in half with a band saw. ( If you don't own one, take the wing to someone how does. I wouldn't use anything else for this.)
3. Sand the inboard ribs to make them flat. Glue a piece of 1/8" sheeting to the inboard ribs.
3. If I were doing this myself I would use a wing joiner. Leave the original one where it is and cut a slot for another joiner directly behind the old one. If the joiner fits between the spars like an "I" beam make the new joiner slightly taller to fit up against and behind the spars.
4. Sand your new inboard ribs and joiner till you get the amount of diehedral you want and epoxy together.
1. Cut out the center 3"-4" inches of covering.
2. Cut the wing in half with a band saw. ( If you don't own one, take the wing to someone how does. I wouldn't use anything else for this.)
3. Sand the inboard ribs to make them flat. Glue a piece of 1/8" sheeting to the inboard ribs.
3. If I were doing this myself I would use a wing joiner. Leave the original one where it is and cut a slot for another joiner directly behind the old one. If the joiner fits between the spars like an "I" beam make the new joiner slightly taller to fit up against and behind the spars.
4. Sand your new inboard ribs and joiner till you get the amount of diehedral you want and epoxy together.
07-19-2005, 11:28 AM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Deep River, ON, CANADA
Posts: 3,299
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
RE: separating and removing dihedral from LT40 wing...
ORIGINAL: Chevalier
Didn't give this too much thought but I would tackle the it this way:
1. Cut out the center 3"-4" inches of covering.
2. Cut the wing in half with a band saw. ( If you don't own one, take the wing to someone how does. I wouldn't use anything else for this.)
3. Sand the inboard ribs to make them flat. Glue a piece of 1/8" sheeting to the inboard ribs.
3. If I were doing this myself I would use a wing joiner. Leave the original one where it is and cut a slot for another joiner directly behind the old one. If the joiner fits between the spars like an "I" beam make the new joiner slightly taller to fit up against and behind the spars.
4. Sand your new inboard ribs and joiner till you get the amount of diehedral you want and epoxy together.
Didn't give this too much thought but I would tackle the it this way:
1. Cut out the center 3"-4" inches of covering.
2. Cut the wing in half with a band saw. ( If you don't own one, take the wing to someone how does. I wouldn't use anything else for this.)
3. Sand the inboard ribs to make them flat. Glue a piece of 1/8" sheeting to the inboard ribs.
3. If I were doing this myself I would use a wing joiner. Leave the original one where it is and cut a slot for another joiner directly behind the old one. If the joiner fits between the spars like an "I" beam make the new joiner slightly taller to fit up against and behind the spars.
4. Sand your new inboard ribs and joiner till you get the amount of diehedral you want and epoxy together.
Good plan
That's pretty much what I do, except that I fill the V-gap with balsa wedges, glued in with either CA or Probond. I also cap the joint with 1/32 balsa sheet (grain cross-wise) on the bottom for extra stiffness -- and sometimes on the top as well, depending on the wing thickness (not needed for really thick wings)
