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  1. #201

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    RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

    Here is the plug-in tail for MW Extra 300XS.
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  2. #202
    Digger44's Avatar
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    RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

    Now thats a nice tail modification. That will make it really easy to transport. Just curious, what are the two blind nuts at the back of the fuse for?
    \"For those that believe, no explanation is necessary; for those that don\'t, none will suffice\"

  3. #203
    Digger44's Avatar
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    RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

    Ok, one other question, the stock landing gear in this kit is sub par IMO and to modify I thought I would cut the two bottom stringers short of the end and replace with a sutable platform for a descent tail gear, what are you planning to do there?
    \"For those that believe, no explanation is necessary; for those that don\'t, none will suffice\"

  4. #204

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    RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

    These are for the two screws that hold the rudder. I already order the OHIO 120 tailwhell p/n OHI120. I will install a piece of hardwoord between the stringers, I will do it once I get the new tail gear.
    That was my last modification, the plane will be ready for cover soon.

  5. #205

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    RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

    Another pic from the tail fully assembled.
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  6. #206
    Cyberwolf's Avatar
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    RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

    Thanks BAR 98 Gator RC was just what I was looking for .
    You have done some nice mods there, be waiting for the finished product.
    If you can\'\'t fix it with a hammer, you\'\'ve got an electrical problem.

  7. #207
    Digger44's Avatar
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    RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

    Didn't get much time to build this weekend but I did get a little, Here's a few updates.

    1. Belly pan wing bottom balsa stringers
    2. top balsa stringers.
    3. center spruce stringers
    4. center stringer support blocks
    5. balsa sheeting hole covers

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    \"For those that believe, no explanation is necessary; for those that don\'t, none will suffice\"

  8. #208
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    RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

    Ok, let me back up a little. Before building the belly pan, and actually drilling the wing mount holes in the fuse I measured from the center of the fuse at the back to the tip of the wing on each side. Actually measured several different places but the tips were primary measuring point. Went back and forth measuring and adjusting until the tip measurements were the same from the fuse tail reference.

    I then clamped the wing in place and drilled through the mount holes into the wing hold down block in the fuse. Removed the wing, and tapped the hold down blocks with 1/4-20 tap and hardened the threads with CA. Goofed a little bit here and threaded a 1/4-20 nylon bolt in place a little to early. [sm=eek.gif] You bet, had to cut it flush and re-drill the one hole. I used a little smaller drill bit than the 1/4-20 bolt so I would not get into the wood and then just re-tapped. Worked out easier than I thought it would.
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    \"For those that believe, no explanation is necessary; for those that don\'t, none will suffice\"

  9. #209
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    RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

    I had to play around a little bit at this point and set the fin and stab in place at the back of the fuse just to see what it looked like.
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    \"For those that believe, no explanation is necessary; for those that don\'t, none will suffice\"

  10. #210
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    RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

    I almost had a duck earlier today when I leveled the fuselage in a stand on the floor to check wing incidence and that the wing was mounted laterally level in the fuse. Do this by measuring from the same reference point on the wing tip on each side(with the fuse level on the thrust line) to the floor in my case. Wow, almost 3/8!QUOT! off. I scratched my head trying to figure out what was wrong for at least an hour, then I realized it was the floor that was off. Set the whole thing up again on the pool table just to be sure and it was dead on. However, I did get a wing incidence reading of 0 deg.at the base. The plans call for +1/2 deg. Guess I will have to either shim or sand the wing saddle and try again.


    spelling
    \"For those that believe, no explanation is necessary; for those that don\'t, none will suffice\"

  11. #211
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    RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

    Digger, although nothing is going on with my friends 300s rebuild, due to work, I did find your post interesting as to drilling and tapping the wing mount block, with CA hardening. That is how it was on this model and I just assumed the original builder didn't have any tee nuts or shoulder nuts. Now I see that is the recomended install?

    I installed tee nuts as I didn't feel comfortable with just threaded and hardened wood. Also we eliminated two of the bolts in favor of dowels on the front of the wing. I guess that there is something to be learned everyday.

    This is by far one of the most detailed build threads I've seen. Keep up the good work. Joe
    Stranger in a strange place.

  12. #212
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    RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

    Yea, I know it is common but I too also have my reservations about the short threads,(1/4") even with CA hardening. I think I am going to add some depth to the threads before I fly this bird. Maybe some additional stock underneath the bolt plate. Just dosn't seem like enough to hold the wing in place.
    Thanks,
    Bob
    \"For those that believe, no explanation is necessary; for those that don\'t, none will suffice\"

  13. #213
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    RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

    Hello again
    I'm not to worried about the 1/4 inch hold down plates being tapped and hardened, but I am concerned about the plastic bolts .I know they say they wont come loose as easy but they will sheer off doing violent maneuvers much easier than steel bolts will.I have popped the heads on several smaller planes, just was lucky I still had one holding things in place .Watching a wing float down has to be one of the most gut wrenching feelings in the book,even though as a rule it sustains minor damage a person knows what the scud missile that once was your plane is going to be in a matter of seconds .HEADS UP IN COMING !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    BTW Great thread and a very nice build.
    If you can\'\'t fix it with a hammer, you\'\'ve got an electrical problem.

  14. #214
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    RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

    Thats a good point Cyberwolf, I havn't thought about that. Do you think even with the four bolts that this would still be a possability?
    \"For those that believe, no explanation is necessary; for those that don\'t, none will suffice\"

  15. #215

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    RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

    Digger, Very nice thread and build, looking good.

    I would like to just add about the bolt thing. I think plastic bolts will hold up just fine. Let me just suggest why I would use plastic bolts on wings and to hold the landing gears. Simply, If you happen to land hard and you have metal bolts, Your entire landing mount will rip right under you. If you use plastic bolts, Most of the time if you land hard the plastic screws will brake which is easily replaced. This has happened to me many times and the plastic screws saved my plane and landing gear mount and everything else that could have ripped off. Basically same thing with the wings. Something has to give, I rather have the plastic bolts which is easily and cheaply replaced. That’s just my 2cents.

  16. #216

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    RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

    Digger:

    Great build thread. I picked one of these up in Perry at the swap meet. While i have built many .25-.60 size planes over the last several years, this will be my first gasser. Your thread has been very insightful and helpful. Keep up the good work.

  17. #217
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    RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

    Thanks hhal7, I was at Perry yesterday and saw three of these planes for sale. I was looking for miscellaneous items and came upon these planes, one ready to fly for less than what I have in this kit build. A lot less!! A little disheartening at first given the effort it takes to complete, after thinking about it for a while I realized what I was paying for was the experience of building this kit and the thrill to fly something I built with my own two hands. I know after it's all said and done, I will be proud of the plane and will enjoy it better than any ARF I have ever worked on, but the draw to just buy an ARF is ever present because of the cost and time involved. All that said, my next will probably be an ARF. Good Luck.
    Bob
    \"For those that believe, no explanation is necessary; for those that don\'t, none will suffice\"

  18. #218
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    RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

    I have to agree with you about the arf's ,this will be my last large plane from a kit for myself ,its just to much time and money 7 rolls of covering material alone plus the glue and other items .
    PLastic bolts in a 15 lb planes landing gear should be really interesting , wont take much of a hard landing to sheer them off, myself I dont like holes jabbed up thru the wings from wheel pants or scrubbed up lower cowls, busted off spark plugs .I figure it this way if I make a bad enough landing to tear the gear plate out I have no body to blame but me *LOL*
    I've seen several of these planes fly and i've yet to see one that was a handfull landing.
    If you can\'\'t fix it with a hammer, you\'\'ve got an electrical problem.

  19. #219
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    RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

    I will keep building , but not a plane of this size. In fact I have a Sig Hog Bipe under the bench right now that will be next. I hope to keep enjoying the build process as I believe it is part of the hobby but for larger planes it will be ARF's.
    \"For those that believe, no explanation is necessary; for those that don\'t, none will suffice\"

  20. #220
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    RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

    I didnt mean I wasnt gonna build anymore *L* just not the larger planes for myself .I just finished this 51 for a fellow flyer.It needs the muffler which should be here today.
    I seen you mentioned a cover scheme but have you decided for sure what your going to go with on the 300.
    My servos will be here this week and I should have it ready to go.Still need to make a couple battery packs but thats no biggy .
    Still a very good thread one of the most detailed that I have read .
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    If you can\'\'t fix it with a hammer, you\'\'ve got an electrical problem.

  21. #221
    Digger44's Avatar
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    RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

    Thanks again Cyberwolf,
    I really want to try the SIG koverall, but I think the weight penalty will be too high on this plane after applying the paint an all. Once I get an accurate weight with everything in the plane, I'll make my mind up. If the weight is too much, I will try the Koverall on the Bipe. As for the extra I like a white base with lots of yellow and black trim. Havn't really nailed down a scheme yet but am currently working on it in Photoshop. Trying to learn more about Photoshop at the same time. I have a picture of one I saw and liked and am trying to use some of that design without totally plagiarizing.

    P-51 looks good, was that a kit?
    \"For those that believe, no explanation is necessary; for those that don\'t, none will suffice\"

  22. #222
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    RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

    Thanks and yes it was a top flight 60 size P-51,to my amazement it wasnt the best kit that I have ever built.
    If you can\'\'t fix it with a hammer, you\'\'ve got an electrical problem.

  23. #223

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    RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

    Looking Good Digger. By the way what were they asking for the 300's at Perry ??? ENJOY !!! RED

  24. #224
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    RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

    red head, I saw three of them, one complete ready to fly w/g62 I think $750.00. Another was just the airframe , well used for $150.00, and the third was about $400.00 can't remember the condition.
    \"For those that believe, no explanation is necessary; for those that don\'t, none will suffice\"

  25. #225

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    RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build

    Thank You. I was just wondering in case I decide to sell mine. ENJOY !!! RED


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