Firebird Freedom Assembly?
05-22-2006, 10:40 PM
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Firebird Freedom Assembly?
Just got a new fuselage for my FBF and need some help with re-installing the "guts". I cannot seem to get the prop motor back in the slot and the holes lined up. Also, does anyone have or know where I can get a detailed pic of how the "ACT" connections should go, etc.......
Appreciate the help.
Kevin
Appreciate the help.
Kevin
07-08-2006, 01:18 AM
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RE: Firebird Freedom Assembly?
I posted this on another freedom thread....
Ok. Let me start by saying that I am just starting out. And, it has been a somewhat painful but enjoyable experience so far. That leads me to this post.
I did a nose dive into the ground that was fast enough to crease the plastic and shove the engine forward in the cowling. It was quite a site with parts flying. Actually, I was very surprised that the plane did not completely disintegrate at the speed that it hit the ground, and after seeing this, I would say that this is a pretty durable plane.
Now to the tips. I was able to push the motor back and it probably would have flown, but I chose to replace the complete chassis for $20 to make sure she was completely airworthy. I would say that after going through the process, it was not overly difficult but it would have been helpful to have a few hints.
• You will need a very fine wire to thread the antenna back through the tail. I had a roll of basic copper wire that I stripped down and used one of the strands. It worked perfectly to pull the antenna back through the tail.
• Pay close attention to how the ACT sensors are connected to the circuit board. I did, and I was glad that I did. They will need to be disconnected when you remove the board from the chassis.
• The wires for the tail will have to slide back through the housing when you pull the board out. Don’t forget to thread them back through the tail guides when you put the board back in the new chassis or you will be installing the board multiple times.
• And here’s my favorite. You get new styrofoam for the battery cradle and there is a definite trick to get it into the chassis. Take the rear piece of styrofoam, and tilt it upward at a 90 degree angle. Push the top of the chassis down toward the bottom of the chassis(wheels off) to make the battery opening wider. Now you will have enough room to work the styrofoam into the opening and tilt it level. After that, you just pop in the piece that fits in the nose.
The time to do a swap the first time was around an hour +. I am sure (I hope I don’t have to) if I had to do it again, it would go much faster. So, if you do happen to bang up your Freedom as severely as I did, don’t be afraid to do a chassis swap and save the extra $40 that it would cost for the chassis and board set-up. It really isn’t that bad and it gets you even more familiar with the plane.
As for getting the engine mounted, I slid it into the cowling and used a screwdriver to twist it within the cowling to get things lined up. I used a screwdriver with a narrow blade that fitted perfectly in one of the slots on the back of the motor. I also learned that if you seat the engine without the metal bushings on one side then add the next screw to the busings and get it threaded, then remove the first screw and run it through the bushings now worked.
For the ACT connections, the top one goes on the left, the botttom goes on the right. If I remember right, the positive goes to the left for each of the connections.
Ok. Let me start by saying that I am just starting out. And, it has been a somewhat painful but enjoyable experience so far. That leads me to this post.
I did a nose dive into the ground that was fast enough to crease the plastic and shove the engine forward in the cowling. It was quite a site with parts flying. Actually, I was very surprised that the plane did not completely disintegrate at the speed that it hit the ground, and after seeing this, I would say that this is a pretty durable plane.
Now to the tips. I was able to push the motor back and it probably would have flown, but I chose to replace the complete chassis for $20 to make sure she was completely airworthy. I would say that after going through the process, it was not overly difficult but it would have been helpful to have a few hints.
• You will need a very fine wire to thread the antenna back through the tail. I had a roll of basic copper wire that I stripped down and used one of the strands. It worked perfectly to pull the antenna back through the tail.
• Pay close attention to how the ACT sensors are connected to the circuit board. I did, and I was glad that I did. They will need to be disconnected when you remove the board from the chassis.
• The wires for the tail will have to slide back through the housing when you pull the board out. Don’t forget to thread them back through the tail guides when you put the board back in the new chassis or you will be installing the board multiple times.
• And here’s my favorite. You get new styrofoam for the battery cradle and there is a definite trick to get it into the chassis. Take the rear piece of styrofoam, and tilt it upward at a 90 degree angle. Push the top of the chassis down toward the bottom of the chassis(wheels off) to make the battery opening wider. Now you will have enough room to work the styrofoam into the opening and tilt it level. After that, you just pop in the piece that fits in the nose.
The time to do a swap the first time was around an hour +. I am sure (I hope I don’t have to) if I had to do it again, it would go much faster. So, if you do happen to bang up your Freedom as severely as I did, don’t be afraid to do a chassis swap and save the extra $40 that it would cost for the chassis and board set-up. It really isn’t that bad and it gets you even more familiar with the plane.
As for getting the engine mounted, I slid it into the cowling and used a screwdriver to twist it within the cowling to get things lined up. I used a screwdriver with a narrow blade that fitted perfectly in one of the slots on the back of the motor. I also learned that if you seat the engine without the metal bushings on one side then add the next screw to the busings and get it threaded, then remove the first screw and run it through the bushings now worked.
For the ACT connections, the top one goes on the left, the botttom goes on the right. If I remember right, the positive goes to the left for each of the connections.
07-08-2006, 01:30 PM
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RE: Firebird Freedom Assembly?
Thanks for the write up. I did eventually get everything replaced. However, after tons of effort and assistance from others, I decided to retire the Firebird. This plane was just too tricky or finicky(sp?). One day it would fly nice and I felt somewhat like I was actually flying it, and the next day it would not get off the ground without crashing and creasing another wing or something.... I ended up going through two fuselages, several wings and tails, etc...
Got myself an Easy-Star and have been having a blast. I am actually flying and not just constantly correcting the plane. I have not had to purchase any replace parts as this plane is the true example of durable.
Thanks and good luck!
Kevin
Got myself an Easy-Star and have been having a blast. I am actually flying and not just constantly correcting the plane. I have not had to purchase any replace parts as this plane is the true example of durable.
Thanks and good luck!
Kevin
