cappaj1

My Feedback: (1)

At the end of a training session, when it's time to store the plane away, my instructor has me pump any remaining fuel from the tank and then run the engine until it quits in order to use any remaining fuel left in the lines and engine.

Is this what most people do and what's the purpose?

Also, is it okay to re-use the fuel pumped out? I would think it picks up air from vibration and dust from being pumped in and then out and then in again.

Thanks in advance.

TexasAirBoss

My Feedback: (22)

I do it.'

I reuse the fuel

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Just like PilotFighter, I do it all the time. At the end of the day I pump any remaining fuel out of the plane and back into my fuel cans in my flight box. I start the plane and run the fuel left in it out. I've been doing this for 12 years and have never had a problem with fuel going bad or getting contaminated.

Ken

rwright142

Good question... I've heard of people doing it but I guess I just don't know why. I would understand doing it if you weren't going to fly that plane for a long time but I know guys that do it every time they pack up and leave for home. Even if they come back out the next week. So for those of you that do it, why?

CGRetired

My Feedback: (1)

The reason you do it is to get the alcohol out of the engine. Alcohol holds water and water... causes rust. That's the engine part. For the tank, well, the same thing can apply. Remaining alcohol with a vent to the outside can accumulate water. And, it can also drip out on you wife's new carpet.. if, of course, you are married. If you are not, then well, she won't care, will she.

CGr.

rwright142

Got it, thanks.
I have caps that I use to cover my muffler and carburetor when storing the planes between flights, so is that doing the same thing? They completely close them. I guess if there was a leak in the line it would still get moisture in, but that never happens...

Adui

I ruined an engine with this philosophy. I didnt bother with after flight defuel and maintenance because I was going to fly with my instructor the next weekend. Well, weather, and schedule conflicts kept us apart till the next flying season 6 month later. Enough moisture had gotten into my engine that the bearings rusted out. (Or so I assume, it was my only Evolutions and Im still wondering why everyone tells me it shouldnt have gone bad)

HighPlains

My Feedback: (1)

Also a good time to practice a deadstick landing. Just fly the last tank dry.

Then the tank is empty and the engine is run dry.

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

We were just talking about this at the field today. One guy said he heard that the combustion products which reach the gas tank through the vent line are enough to contaminate your fuel supply. However we both still drain out tanks back into our fuel reservoirs. Thinking about it now, either way that fuel will run through the engine, so I don't understand the difference.

I drain my fuel back into my supply (to remove the possibility of water accumulation, and so when I turn my plane upside down, or nose down to carry it around, fuel doesn't pour into the engine). I run the engine until it's totally dry, and use a few squirts of after run oil. This is what it says to do in my OS 46AX manual, and that's what I do. I have the best running engine at my field, hands down, and it burns a gallon of fuel per week (has some hours on it). It starts with one, two flips of a stick at most, so I intend on continuing this practice.

henryhighwood

Nitromethane left in the engine can be very corrosive.

Sourkraut

I also pump the remaining fuel back into my fuel jug and reuse. To costly to throw out and I have never had a problem with this practice. Then start the engine and run dry and add some afterrun. Real good practice to get into.

Curt

cappaj1

My Feedback: (1)

Picked up some good tips from asking this question in this thread. I didn't even know there was such a thing as after run oil. So when you say a few 'squirts' do you just add a few drops to the carb after running the last few drops of glow fuel out of the engine? What's a good brand?

Also, is it true synthetic glow fuel won't leave that rust colored residue on the outside of the engine?

jetmech05

I've always drained and ran dry...yes you can get stuff in your fuel jug....I can't swear to ya where the stuff comes from...off the pick up line? from the cap? or from the tank...moisture in the fuel can come from contensation going from hot humid summer weather with the cap open ( lines in the cap for refueling is still open to atmosphere) to cool garage floor or worse air conditioned car...
When the fuel jug gets low I'll look in the jug and see how much contamination, if any, there is. If there is some I won't use the last bit of fuel...And never ever pour the remains from one jug of fuel to a new jug.

brett65

My Feedback: (18)

I just use the hobbico brand, my lhs has them in a box at the checkout desk. I do 3 to 4 drops down the carb and hit it with the starter for a couple seconds to get it thrown all around. I do the same with my nitro cars too. If you use a nice filter setup for fueling, you shouldn't have to worry too much about getting trash in your fuel.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJ811

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

I use a little more after run than a few drops; basically I put the throttle on idle and fill the carb. Turning the prop sucks it all right in, and I turn the prop over maybe 6 or 7 times to let the insides of the engine get covered. Right now I have Hobbico brand, 'cause I added it on to a Tower order. You can use air tool oil or automatic transmission fluid for cheaper, but so far the $3.00 bottle has lasted many days at the field and isn't close to being empty yet.

And yes, synthetic oil doesn't varnish like Castor does. I knew about the varnishing, but hadn't actually seen it yet. The varnish will also form on the insides, too. It's protection for a while, but I guess at some point it needs to come off?

spiral_72

I think the idea is pretty much established, but one thing no one has mentioned: When you leave fuel in the engine of the tank for an extended period of time, substances that can evaporate do, and you're left with a thick chewing-gum substance that is very difficult to remove. I don't know how long this takes, weeks? months? years? but it happened in a plane and engine I bought second hand....... some nasty stuff man. I'm pretty sure I had to replace the tank. Fuel and alcohol wouldn't cut the stuff.


Oh, and I run mine dry after every flying session and give it a couple spins with the starter and glow driver just to make sure. I also return the fuel to the jug. I figure if there's any debris in it, I pump through a filter into my plane anyways.

cappaj1

My Feedback: (1)

Where do you squirt the after run oil? Tower Hobbies says not to put it in the carb as it may cause the O-rings to deteriorate.
They say to pour into the exhaust port - doesn't that require you take the muffler off? Or the glow plug hole.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXL391&P=ML

CGRetired

My Feedback: (1)

I've been dripping it in the carb for years now and have not had a problem at all with "O" Rings.

cappaj1

My Feedback: (1)

Instead of using after run oil, how about adding a cap full of pure synthetic lubricant to a gallon of fuel -synthetic fuel at that, to avoid the gumming in the engine from castor oil?

If anyone does this, please recommend a good synthetic fuel and lubricant. From a quick search on the web, I see Morgan Fuel Cool Power ingredients seem to fit the bill.

Much appreciated in advance.

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Cappaj1,
If you use Morgan fuels you don't need to add or use after run oil. They already blend it in to their mixtures. I have engines that have been stored for 5+ years with nothing more than running the fuel out of them and then storing them, zero rust in them.

Ken

cappaj1

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks, Ken,

They have a selection of different fuels. If you don't mind, which one do you use, the Cool Power?

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

I run Cool Power 15% in every glow engine I own, with the exception of my YS engine. In that I use Cool Power 25%

Ken

cappaj1

My Feedback: (1)

How much does the Cool Power 15% cost right now, if you don't mind? I realize the cost is due to go up drastically from the nitro methane shortage but just to get an idea.

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

It depends a lot on where you buy it, and how much you buy. I can get it for $13/gallon if I buy a case, but that's in Dallas. The shop where I usually buy it at runs $15.99/gallon.

Ken

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

The LHS here sells it for $30/gal (15%).