Go Back  RCU Forums > RC Airplanes > Beginners
Reload this Page >

Automotive paint

Notices
Beginners Beginners in RC start here for help.

Automotive paint

Old 02-12-2010, 08:33 PM
  #1  
capt17
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Anderson, IN
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Automotive paint

Hi all,

Yeah I got yet another question. Sorry! I just spent some money on my three corsair colors that are spot on matches to the real thing in an Automotive Acrylic Enamel Paint. I am planning on spraying it with my new HVLP gun. I am worried that I messed up because I'm not convinced this paint will stand up to fuel residue. I'm not sure why.Hopefully you can all set my mind at ease. If for some reason it won't stand up to the fuel, can I spray it with a Compatable fuel-proof clear coat? Would a clear Lusterkote destroy this paint? Should addinghardener to my auto paint make a difference in the fuel-proofing? (Right now I didn't buy hardener, but I could! ) How long should I let this thing dry/cure before exposing it to fuel residue? It's being applyed over solartex, so the model is protected, just want to mae sure after three flights I don't have a mess on my hands. Literally. Help set my mind at easeand convince methat I just didn't waste my money!
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	pn35955.jpg
Views:	23
Size:	145.0 KB
ID:	1377375  
Old 02-12-2010, 10:17 PM
  #2  
blvdbuzzard
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: high deserts, CA
Posts: 3,717
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default RE: Automotive paint

Every auto paint I have shot has used a hardener. Every auto paint I have used is fuel proof to the 30% fuel I have used. You can also get a clear coat that matches the paint you have and use a dull coat to make it FLAT. I have added the dulling agent to make it military flat. There was no shine at all. The store I deal with has put a two part clear in a spray can for me. It was $15.00 for the can but well worth it.

With the paint I used and the HVLP gun I had, I had to increase the reducer by about 30% to keep it from giving me an orange peel. You may have to play with the paint a little.

Dru.
Old 02-13-2010, 12:06 AM
  #3  
opjose
 
opjose's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Poolesville, MD
Posts: 12,624
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Automotive paint

I've no direct knowledge of auto-paint techniques... however I've taken a good half dozen or more plastic Heli canopies to an automotive shop who did the painting and work for me.

I know they applied some sort of hardener.

The results have been fantastic.

At first I was afraid that the automotive paint would crack given that it is painted on plastic.

This has never happened.

Glow fuel seems to make no dent in it as well.

-

I've used Krylon with a primer base on cowls I've repaired or rebuilt, and glow fuel and gasoline seems to have almost no effect on it.

Old 02-13-2010, 10:30 AM
  #4  
stevenmax50
My Feedback: (1)
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: ft payne, AL
Posts: 1,207
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Automotive paint

Ditto all of the above. I have my local auto parts store mix my colors for me. I like a metellic flake look. I use 15% nitro and have no problems with it. I have also never used a topcoat. I never used aan HVLP gun but I am going to buy one for my current build. The weather down here should warm up enough in the next 4 weeks to paint in my garage. By then I will be ready.
I love the auto paint. It is very hard after cure. And I use a high gloss also. I may experiment with a topcoat on some scrap this time. Just hate to buy the stuff cause its not cheap.
What did you cover your Corsair with? Looks good.
Old 02-13-2010, 11:06 AM
  #5  
Poffit
Member
My Feedback: (4)
 
Poffit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Diagonal, IA
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Automotive paint

This painting has me on a side track now too. I had trouble with lusterkote over in the kit building section. I am going to do some experimenting this winter to find a cheap paint that is fuel proof. In High School and early 20's I was fairly knowledgable about automotive paints. I worked in my dad's body shop, painting my buddies vehicles and fixing their crashes to earn my gas money. But that was about 30 years ago and I know there have been changes in paint since then. Back then there were mainly two kinds of paint, acrylic lacquer and acrylic enamel. The hardner you are talking about for enamel was not mandatory but was usually used, it made the paint a little harder than without. Vehicles painted with enamel without the hardner would sometimes start to look chalky after 3 or 4 years. Acrylic enamel was very sensitive about what could be sprayed over the top of it unless it had cured for several months, it could only be top coated with more acrylic enamel. Lacquer on the other hand could be top coated with almost every kind of paint, hence all primer back then was a lacquer base. About that time Imron came on the scene. If I remember right it was a polyurethane, that had to have hardner or activator added to make it set up. From all the advertising blitz back then I gathered Imron was developed for the aviation industry. I suspect Imron is the same type of paint that people talk about getting from Radio South, read expensive. But Imron paint was high priced too, 30 years ago a gollon of clear was $75, were as a gallon of acrylic enamal by ppg was probably $20 or $25. I got into the custom painting a little with the murals, flames, fish scale, sort of thing.I used acrylic lacquer to make all the designs because it was easy to work with, blended into other paints good, dried fast, and cheap. Then I would clear coat everything with Imron clear after sanding lightly with 600 grit. I saw a pickup 15 years after I had painted it that way and other than all the rust that was attacking it, it had the same shine as the day it rolled out of the shop.
Darn, I am rambling, back to the point. Just about everything will attack lacquer so I am going to start expermenting with acrylic enamel with hardner. If that doesn't work I will go with the lacquer color with an Imron (polyurethane) type clear over the top. That way I just have to buy an expensive clear and use the cheap lacquer for color. I know this didn't answer your question, but maybe together we can find cheap automotive paint solution.
Old 02-13-2010, 12:05 PM
  #6  
capt17
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Anderson, IN
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Automotive paint

Thanks for the input guys! Stevenmax, My plane is covered in White Solartex. It's an Iron-on fabric. I had only used monokote before this but I'm hooked now. It goes on so smoothly and stretches really well around those tough curves. I though the wing tips were going to kill me but it really wasn't that bad! I think I am definately going to get the hardener and add it.

Does anyone know how long I should let this plane'spaint jobcure before I expose it to engine residue?

Poffit, I guess I'll be a guinea pig for you. I will certainly report back some good results one way or another. I wont be painting until next week or weekend sometime.
Old 02-14-2010, 03:14 PM
  #7  
bbrown2828
My Feedback: (76)
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Paragould, AR
Posts: 386
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Automotive paint

I am an automotive painter.. If i was you I would use base coat clear coat on it you will get a much getter look out of it and if you do use what you got there let it harden about a week in 70 degrees temp with the lac paint
Old 02-15-2010, 07:28 AM
  #8  
psuguru
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: ChelmsfordEssex, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 521
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default RE: Automotive paint


ORIGINAL: capt17

My plane is covered in White Solartex.
Heavy, man.

Still, it's really strong.

Old 02-15-2010, 07:34 PM
  #9  
stevenmax50
My Feedback: (1)
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: ft payne, AL
Posts: 1,207
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Automotive paint

Capt, I use Koverall fabric and seal it with Minwax Polycrilic before prime and paint.  I love fabric.  Koverall doesnt have an adhesive so I have to apply one to the airframe first.  I dont know if the guy who commented about heavy was implying that the fabric is heavy. My PT60 with an OS 65 on it is 8 pds, exactly what GP calls out.   But my cover jobs with paint will not add 16oz to a 60 size plane.  Poly is a water based product and most of it evaporates.  Do you use something like that over Solartex? 
Old 02-15-2010, 08:39 PM
  #10  
capt17
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Anderson, IN
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Automotive paint



Stevenmax, No, what I've been told in previous posts is that no primer is needed. Just shoot paint right onto the solartex. It is fuel proof already. I hope this helps and I know I'll have some more info in the coming weeks!

Old 02-16-2010, 06:16 PM
  #11  
stevenmax50
My Feedback: (1)
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: ft payne, AL
Posts: 1,207
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Automotive paint

Looking forward to pics of the finished model. Paint right over the fabric. hmmm
Sounds a little easier than the process Igo thru.
Old 02-16-2010, 08:54 PM
  #12  
bigtim
My Feedback: (13)
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: san francisco, CA
Posts: 4,177
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default RE: Automotive paint

I work with paint and coatings for a living, if your going to shoot(spray) auto paint then make sure you use a high quality respirator, yes you should use the hardener for the auto paint, and make sure you also apply only enough to cover the model, auto paint adds weight fast and you only need enough to get opacity(coverage).

if you are spraying blue, then a dark grey primer helps with coverage, spraying over a white surface requires you to use alot of material to get good color tone. primary colors like red,yellow,and blue, don't cover well in general.

having used toxic materials for many years I have almost totally switched to using water clean up paints www.warbirdcolors.com paints are catalized urathanes, water clean up and vurtually no odor to speak of,great coverage with a small amount of paint, 8 drops of catalyst per oz. of paint and its fuel proof, I use it on all of my painted planes now.
Old 02-17-2010, 09:44 AM
  #13  
psuguru
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: ChelmsfordEssex, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 521
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default RE: Automotive paint


ORIGINAL: bigtim
having used toxic materials for many years I have almost totally switched to using water clean up paints www.warbirdcolors.com paints are catalized urathanes, water clean up and vurtually no odor to speak of,great coverage with a small amount of paint, 8 drops of catalyst per oz. of paint and its fuel proof, I use it on all of my painted planes now.
Great information, Thanks!

I commented earlier because I've used Solartex in the past and added a lot of weight to a model vis á vis using doped nylon. BUT it does go on really nicely, shrinks well and is fuelproof whilst being strong. I've never had a Solartex structure go slack after shrinking either. It'll be interesting to see this model painted!

Old 02-17-2010, 09:55 AM
  #14  
capt17
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Anderson, IN
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Automotive paint

Thanks for the info guys, my "paint guy" is coming over tonight to survey the task at hand. Hopefully we can get this thing painted soon! I will be sure to post pics on progress.
Old 03-02-2010, 07:08 PM
  #15  
capt17
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Anderson, IN
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Automotive paint

Well I bought an HVLP spray gun from Harbor Freight for $15 and it looks like money well spent! Got a buddy at an autobody shop score me a couple of 3M respirators and I set set up a paint booth in my garage (w/ proper ventilation of course) An artist friend came over and brought his compressor. I tac clothed the airplane and he set up the gun and mixed the paint, thinner and hardener. We tested the spary pattern on a box and then sprayed the plane. All I can say is WOW! This was pretty easy and a ton of fun! We shot the dark blue first becaue I am going with the tri-color mid WWII scheme and want to fade the colors together. So far here is what we have! Unfortunately he is unavailable to paint this week soI'm on hold. Enjoy!

Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Lj24183.jpg
Views:	21
Size:	248.5 KB
ID:	1389994  
Old 03-02-2010, 11:17 PM
  #16  
stevenmax50
My Feedback: (1)
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: ft payne, AL
Posts: 1,207
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Automotive paint

Looks great Capt.  Keep the pics and info comin.  I should be going by Harour Feight soon for my hvlp gun.
Old 03-02-2010, 11:39 PM
  #17  
nitro wing
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: surrey, BC, CANADA
Posts: 3,775
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Automotive paint

Paint with hardeners are very fuel proof. Instead of buying all the stuff, befriend your local auto body shop and let the painter do it on a free afternoon. the material cost is very little for them as everything is on site and the labour is about an hour or 2 at most.
Old 03-03-2010, 08:33 AM
  #18  
capt17
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Anderson, IN
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Automotive paint



With the HVLP gun from harbor freight this project really wasn't that expensive.  Next time just the price of paint!  Stevenmax, make sure you get the correct automotive thinner  for the paint you bought from your supplier as well.  The stuff they gave me for it is awesome. Make sure to drop a cople of ounces into the gun and spray the thinner through it right after you're done sparying.

Old 03-03-2010, 10:19 AM
  #19  
stevenmax50
My Feedback: (1)
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: ft payne, AL
Posts: 1,207
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Automotive paint

I used the thinner the auto parts store sold me.  Since I am pretty empty headed about paint in general, I pretty much hadda follow their instructions.
Any of you guys try Nelson paints yet?  I talked with .Mmr Nelson on the phone last year` and his process sounds pretty easy and neat.  If I remember correctly, it wasnt the cheapest paint out there though.  Here is a link if you have never` been there.  I am curious about what others have experianced with Nelsons.

  http://www.nelsonhobby.com/
Old 03-03-2010, 05:35 PM
  #20  
Rudolph Hart
 
Rudolph Hart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Perth, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 4,383
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default RE: Automotive paint

Looks good capt'n.Spraying any 2k colour or clear over solvent based acrylics is usually avoided because the solvent takes months to release from the paint film(work harden)regardless of temp and will push the non porous 2k top coat off acrylic.Seen and fixed that hundreds of times.
Old 03-03-2010, 09:37 PM
  #21  
capt17
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Anderson, IN
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Automotive paint

Stevenmax, I am the same way with this process. I pretty much asked the paint guy what to do and what to mix and it's worked so far! I do have Nelson Thinner, not sure if this is the same stuff you are takling about because I got if from the auto paint store. Definatlely use the right thinner for the job. This thinner I have is powerful so be careful with it, but it makes the job so much easier! More pics to come once I shoot the intermediate blue.

Oh and I went back to harbor freight today and got a spray gun stand. I also decided to try the $10 airbrush set as well. Maybe I'll try a little detail work or some weathering too on this model with this. I am so pleased with their HVLP spray gun, Ifigured for $10, what the heck!
Old 03-11-2010, 08:48 PM
  #22  
capt17
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Anderson, IN
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Automotive paint

Just an update on my painting progress. We masked and paineted the intermediate blue last night. My buddy got sick overnight so I decided to venture off on my own tonight and go for shooting the white underbelly. I think it turned out pretty good for a first time painter like me. I am quite pleased. Now it's on to decal application, final ballancing and testing so I can maiden her later this month!
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Jh16866.jpg
Views:	18
Size:	164.2 KB
ID:	1396184   Click image for larger version

Name:	Zu65674.jpg
Views:	22
Size:	175.3 KB
ID:	1396185   Click image for larger version

Name:	Jp32675.jpg
Views:	17
Size:	148.6 KB
ID:	1396186  
Old 03-12-2010, 08:07 AM
  #23  
psuguru
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: ChelmsfordEssex, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 521
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default RE: Automotive paint


ORIGINAL: capt17

Just an update on my painting progress. We masked and paineted the intermediate blue last night. My buddy got sick overnight so I decided to venture off on my own tonight and go for shooting the white underbelly. I think it turned out pretty good for a first time painter like me. I am quite pleased. Now it's on to decal application, final ballancing and testing so I can maiden her later this month!
Looking good!

Old 03-12-2010, 08:26 AM
  #24  
stevenmax50
My Feedback: (1)
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: ft payne, AL
Posts: 1,207
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Automotive paint

I was in Huntsville back on Monday. Thats a 1.5 hr drive for me so I do all I can when I go there. There is a nicely stocked LHS there. Except the only 2 kits they have are the Corsair and a Mustang. And 200 ARF's. That is no exageration. Plus the employees no nothing about building, painting, etc. But if I know what I want at least they probably have it in stock. So thats cool. The reason I bring up my little H'ville trip is that I was drivin down the road and there was a Harbour Freight!!!. My luckey day. Only problem was that there HVLP guns were 50 bucks or higher. Not alot of money, but so much that I need to add that to the monthly budget. 10 bucks I coulda just spent. 50 I gotta plan for.
Capt, your Corsair is looking good. Keep the pics comin bro. And if you could, a posting with a summerization of your process would be cool. I sometimesforget a step when I read the whole process spread over many postings. Now that I think about it, I should probably gather all the tips I have read from various threads.and put them in proper sequence. Anyway...keep up the good work. Do you have an estimated time for completion and maiden?
Old 03-12-2010, 03:15 PM
  #25  
capt17
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Anderson, IN
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Automotive paint

Stevenmax, That stinks about the harbor frieght gun. Mine had a whole wall of them for $14.99. If you don't have a real strict time-table PM me your info and if you like I'd ship you one for whatever it costs me.I'm guessing I could do it for 30 bucks once I got the small filters and the small regulator that goes with it and of course shipping. . Let me know, itis about 30 minutes away so I have to be that direction. MIght be a week or two till I gotthat there again. I will also post a detailed outline of what I did soon but it wasn't reallt that hard. I'm hoping to maiden maybe the week after next. All depends on that weather. I want it to be near perfect flying conditions. I don't want a rouge wind gust to catch me off guard when I'm just trying to get her airborn!

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.