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  1. #1

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    Old Gasser Trying Electric

    After flying glow and gas for twenty years, I'd like to give electric a try. Need suggestions on motor (geared??) , esc, battery sizes and charger. Make it simple. All I know about electicity is to put the plug into the wall socket.

    The aircraft is a Proctor D.VII. It's a 23 lb biplane, 1/4 scale, 88" wing span. If using glow it would take a 300 twin or a 45cc -50cc gas turning a 23" to 24" prop at about 7,000 rpm.

    HELP, Jay


  2. #2

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    RE: Old Gasser Trying Electric

    You are way out of my league, but you might try posting here! http://www.rcgroups.com/glow-to-elec...nversions-247/
    Dr Phil Millener, Chattanooga, TN

  3. #3

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    RE: Old Gasser Trying Electric

    I have to agree with Dr. Kiwi, your setup is out of the range of what I usually work with.

    Best I can do is a direct drive setup. It should put out 24 pounds of thrust for an ever so slightly better then 1:1 power to weight.

    Motor
    http://www.hobbypartz.com/96m608-big...335-245kv.html

    Battery (2) per flight, wired with a "Y" harness for 12s
    http://www.hobbypartz.com/geace45c6ce.html

    ESC, does not come with a BEC so you would need a battery to power the radio gear.
    http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e26-proton-100a-hv.html

    Prop would be an 18X8


    Here is another setup

    Motor
    http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._80cc_Eq_.html

    Same ESC and batteries. Calc program says 28 pounds of thrust with a 23X10 prop.

    From what I have put together, there really is not need for a gear reduction any more. The out runner brushless motors work so much better then the old gear brushed motors.



    Buzz

  4. #4

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    RE: Old Gasser Trying Electric

    Buzz, Thanks for the info. Think Im getting an idea of what's needed. Jay

  5. #5

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    RE: Old Gasser Trying Electric

    There is a learning curve with E power. I look back and think of all the magic smoke I let out in learning.

    Here is an online calc program. I forgot to put the link in the post above.

    http://www.s4a.ch/eflight/motorcalc_e.htm

    Spend some time messing with this and see what dopes what.


    Buzz.

  6. #6

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    RE: Old Gasser Trying Electric

    fwiw The biggest issue with stubby nosed biplanes is getting the weight forward enough for CG. Alot of fellows use a motor larger than required to put the most weight forward possible.
    To keep at 24 prop ( assuming thats scale or close), you will need a 50cc class motor, running on 12s with a 100a esc minumum. I have a Suppo 7035-8 (190kv) that can turn uptoa 24/12, it would need a 160A esc for this tho.
    I currently use a 23/10 for 99a 4200watts in my Aeroworks 50cc Extra, I usea Castle Creations 110HV Esc, on 12s (two 6s/5000/30c in series).You could use a 23/6 or 8 to get the power levels down with still plenty of power for the bipe. Even at the 4200 watt level I use, the motor is barely warm after flight.
    The 7035 weighs 3 lbs, same as a DA50, so balancing issues are easier, established with moving the batteries to attain CG.
    I don't know how you feel about props being too small, I detest tiny little props on big airplanes. Electric allows a scale prop by matching the kv of the motor to the number a cells used and the motor amp ratings. jm2cw flytreetimes

  7. #7

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    RE: Old Gasser Trying Electric

    Thanks for the reply. I'm pretty far along now and hope to maiden in the next two weeks and take the D.VII to the Las Vegas Warbird fly-in April 4-6. I went with a 50cc Rim Fire, a Castle 160 ESC and two 6s/5000/40c lipos in series. I have a Vess 23A and a 22A to try. The lipos are mounted as far forward as I could get them. This might be the first WW1 biplane I've had to add weight to the tail.

  8. #8

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    RE: Old Gasser Trying Electric

    Hi jj Another good combo! Sounds ideal. Yes even a biplane can thro in some surprises and need the weight moved around. three of us on rc groups are building 81" Mosquitos, we designed the battery box to allow the battery within 2" of the nose, figuring that would likely be its point for balance. I got mine assembled and found the battery goes Back at least 3" to get CG. Suprise!!!
    Please let us know how the maiden goes, keen to hear. flytreetimes

  9. #9

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    RE: Old Gasser Trying Electric



    ORIGINAL: jjmretired This might be the first WW1 biplane I've had to add weight to the tail.
    Just a thought, JJ. -May have been useful to have got a heavier motor, then ...?
    I note:
    RimFire 50cc Weight: 1250g 22x8 to 26x10 props
    Diameter: 80mm Length: 75mm kV: 230
    " ... the RimFire 50cc Outrunner Brushless Motor from ElectriFly is great for 3D planes up to 18 pounds and sport planes weighing up to 28 pounds ..."

    I have Fliton 50cc Extra 260 (~8kg = ~17lb), and I used a Turnigy CA80-80 (50~80cc Eq) motor for this. This motor weighs 1545g.

    Here are some other motor choices:I personally (now) like the look of the Turnigy RotoMax 80cc Motor -although I have not tried this myself

    http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ner_Motor.html
    Turnigy RotoMax 50cc Size Brushless Outrunner Motor
    Weight: 1080g
    Suggested Prop: 24x12 Majzlik - 26x12 APC
    Diameter: 80mm Length: 102mm Total length:142mm

    http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._80cc_Eq_.html
    Turnigy CA80-80 Brushless Outrunner (50~80cc Eq)
    Weight: 1545g
    23in- 26 in props
    Diameter: 80mm Length: 133mm Total length: 152mm

    http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ner_Motor.html
    Turnigy RotoMax 80cc Size Brushless Outrunner Motor
    Weight: 1916g
    26x8 - 27x12 props
    Diameter: 108mm Length: 110mm Total length:142mm


    There is also: HACKER A60-18L (910g),and Hacker A80-10 (1450g) and other motors like this
    -but I guess they would be much more expensive than a Rimfire 50cc or 65cc.


  10. #10
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    RE: Old Gasser Trying Electric

    subscribe
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