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  1. #1

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    does anyone here own a kyosho evolva m3 im having issues with clutch shims

    Hi people need help wiith clutch shims on clutch bell on my kyosho evolva m3 I'm just wondering how many shims e.g how many shims I need and how many mm shims are needed .I've got 0.1,0.2,0.3mm shims but instruction book says I need a 0.5mm shim but I havent got that shim. Does anyone on here have a kyosho evolva m3 and could help me with my problem.

    Thanks

  2. #2

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    RE: does anyone here own a kyosho evolva m3 im having issues with clutch shims

    If it asks for 0.5mm shmming, just use 2x0.2mm shims and 1x0.1mm shim. That totals 0.5mm worth of shimming, but in the end it depends on how it feels on the track. More gap between the clutch shoe and the bell makes it engage harder and quicker, the opposite for smaller gap. Dont go by the manual if it tell you to use a specific amount in certain places, just do that sort of stuff yourself. Do you know how to adjust the gap and endplay properly?
    Kyosho V1RRR Evo 2 // RB Touring 10 + RB 2659 // Futaba S3010 (T/B) & Hitec HS5625MG Digital (ST)

  3. #3

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    RE: does anyone here own a kyosho evolva m3 im having issues with clutch shims

    No I sorry I don't know how to adjust the gap and endplay properly can you explain

    Cheers

  4. #4

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    RE: does anyone here own a kyosho evolva m3 im having issues with clutch shims

    No I sorry I don't know how to adjust the gap and endplay properly can you explain

    Cheers

  5. #5

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    RE: does anyone here own a kyosho evolva m3 im having issues with clutch shims

    OK, to adjust the maximum amount of gap from the clutch shoe to the clutch bell you have to add the appropriate amount of shims between the thrust bearing sleeve (where the scew holds it all onto the crankshaft) and the thrust bearing. it makes it easier if you use a vernier or digital calipers to measure how much play you have in the entire unit.
    So start by measuring the distance between the pinion gear and that thrust bearing sleeve when the bell is physically touching the clutch shoe. Now measure it when the bell is furthest away from the clutch shoe (pull it away from the clutch shoe). This is how much gap you currently have. For 1/10 usually between 0.3 and 0.8mm is the range, but usually it sits around 0.5mm. For 1/8 I would say to start at 0.6mm and try from there.
    OK, so now you know how much gap you have.
    To set the gap that you desire, add the amount of shims needed to reduce the gap you measured to the amount you need, eg you measure 1.4mm of gap, add 0.8mm worth of shims between the thrust bearing and thrust bearing sleeve to get 0.6mm of total gap.
    ***Normally they all say to take out the bearing closest to the engine, but i leave it on as it stabilizes everything and doesnt affect anything for me.***
    Now that the gap is set, you just add X amount of shims between the innermost bearing and the engine so that the bell doesnt drag along the clutch shoe. I add just enough so that the clutch bell moves along the shaft minimally, but only moves up and down a little bit in case the metals expand during racing, if its too much then as they heat up they could cause the clutch to bind up and not work properly. Check that nothing is binding and that the clutch spins freely with a little bit of play. Press the bell towards the engine and if it feels like its touching the shoe, add some more shims so it stops. Now you have a fully functional clutch!

    I hope this explains alot, its how I do it and works very well.
    Kyosho V1RRR Evo 2 // RB Touring 10 + RB 2659 // Futaba S3010 (T/B) & Hitec HS5625MG Digital (ST)


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