VS30

I have a stampede with a trx .15 i got "running" off of ebay well i got pull starter for it in mail yesterday and "tried" starting it up wont start so i checked and found that the fule line was pluged because the jackass left fuel in it so i dont know how long it sat so i put new lines on it but it will NOT pull fuel from tank if i pull of fuel line it will pour out so 100% not the lines im gonna take it apart and see if carb is pluged in anyway but before i did so i wanted to see if anyone has any ideas ?

kyntar

Pull out the HSN then bolck carb and exhaust then turn over motor. This should force any gum out thru opening. Reinstall needle gently and try to start.

VS30

Ok I did that as soon as a took out the HSN i could see the little bit of fuel that i had forced in the line drain back to the tank and when i cover carb and exhust and turn engine over fuel flows just fine pours right out but ASSOON as i put the HSN in even just a little bit it stops all movment of fuel so im still lost on what the problem is

controlliner

Is the HSN opened 2 1/2 turns out from fully closed. for this engine, it is a good place to start. The orifice that the HSN seats into may be plugged with castor oil.
This is an excellent engine so don't get discouraged.

VS30

Yes it is at 2 1/2 turns still nothing i know its gotta be pluge somewhere but when i take HSN out and turn engine over the fuel run right out of HSN hole so i dont know hwere this clog is

controlliner

Here is the manual. http://www.traxxas.com/products/nitr...INE-MANUAL.pdf

Grab a wrench the proper size and remove the HSN main body. Get a paint brush hair or piece of fishing line and push it through the bottom hole of the main body (the part that screws onto the carb) do not use wire or any other thing, it will ruin the orifice for the HSN. If you have access to compressed air, set the regulator for 5 psi (no higher) and blow out the main body.

VS30

Ok i used air compresser and cleaned it all out a bit of gunk came out but when i put it all back it still does not pull fuel.....im lost

controlliner

Don't take this the wrong way, but are you turning the engine over the right direction? The flywheel should be turned counter clockwise when looking at the clutch bell. If you turn the engine clockwise the carb will never suck fuel. If all is well and the carb is absolutely clean, the only thing that could be wrong is an air leak in the crank case.

VS30

Yes I am turning it over in the right direction. Don't take this the wrong way but a pull start only bolts on one way. So the flywheel can't turn any other direction. I will just take it apart check for leaks and clean it all else fails i can pick up a crank case for cheap on ebay. Thanks for all the help.

controlliner

Ok, I thought it had the starter removed. You should not need a crank case if there is a leak. This problem just requires new seals. Understand this, Please resist sealing your engine with gobs of RTV sealant. It is sloppy and sealant can get in areas where it doesn't belong. I have been using R/C car engines since the beginning, when all we had was airplane engine with a clamp on heat sink. All I have ever had to do is replace gaskets to prevent air leaks. There is a very small group of people using gunky sealant. This small group may have over tightened screws and distorted engine parts requiring thick sealants.

I still believe the carb orifices may have blockages. This part has very small holes subject to getting plugged. The LSN runs in a brass tube where the main jet is, this jet may still be blocked.
With the plug out, does the engine make a good "putt" sound when the piston moves down to bottom dead center? If so, it means your bottom half of the cylinder liner fits the piston well still. If not the liner may be too loose, although this condition is rare.
Is the compression good when turning over with the plug in? (this doesn't affect fuel draw.)
Please don't get discouraged, hang in there

VS30

Yes it makes a nice "putting" sound when the plug is removed. And the compression seems good with plug in I may just take the carb out and check there and what sealent would you recomend ?

controlliner

I don't recommend sealant. Reseal with a new carb "O" ring and a new backplate gasket.

bigdogkanicsar

also you may wanna take apart the high speed needle housing and it's components and clean them thoroughly.
when nitro fuel sit it has a tendancy to cause rust on steel parts because of it's moisture absorbing nature.

controlliner

Already mentioned in post 6

kyntar

buy a cheap carb on flea bay

bigdogkanicsar

i don't neccesarily read everything in a thread for lack off time.
but no one mentioned the fact that fuel is corrosive and it is, especially to steel

controlliner

It is not really the fuel that is corrosive as such, it is the nitric acid left behind as a combustion byproduct. Sometimes there is minute traces of H2O in fuel that may cause corrosion.

ZeroKelvin

thenitric acid comes from the combustion of nitromethane? I guess it is possible you could generate a little nitric acid but I don't know. I did some searching on the net and haven't found any information on this. If you know anything more about it I would be interested. Thanks.

bigdogkanicsar

exactly!
the nitro fuel we use for ou RC vehicles acts just like brake fluid, it absorbs moisture.causing it to be corrosive
especially when left in the vehicle tank and fuel lines or carb.
moisture in the air builds up in the fuel quicker than you may think.
it will promote rust on any steel surface within a couple days unless the tank, lines, and carb are emptied of fuel.
bearings ,crank shaft, and needles will gain surface rust quickly, and if it just sits in the lines it will rust the needles and if not attended to quick enough ,i have seen it eat completely through some needles on some used vehicles i had acuired in the past.

VS30

Well its starting to sound like bad new for this .15 then.....lol i'm gonna pull carb off today after work and check and see how its lookin if ther is rust at all im just gonna replace carb and check engine further for rust thanks again for all the help people!